My new 6x9 subwoofers pics inside

[Alien Mantis]

talnlnky: have you been drinking?

I am surprised at what you said.

[talnlnky]

nope... I stick to what I said.... i'm not saying tupperware is the best thing.... It is ghetto lookiing and it's not going to be the most rigid enclosure either... but thats true of 95% of the sub boxes in cars these days. All those prefab boxes are crap, and the speaker terminals they put on them are usually even worse.

It is simply a very cheap way (if you can get it at a 2nd hand store, or got some laying around) to get a workable enclosure that won't put lots of stress on a rear deck, and will help you have control over the excursion of a sub that would otherwise be playing IB/free air.

You know... now I kind of feel like ranting a bit. You know that the perfect enclosure shape for a sub is a sphere... due to the equal dispersion of the pressure inside of a box. People have been using Sonotubes in Home Theaters for awhile because it is an easy way to get a very lightweight but large enclosure that is still rigid (due to the cylindrical shape). Square wood boxes are kind of an inefficient design, easy to make, but even still, nobody ever does it correctly. When was the last time you saw somebody make a box for a 10,12, or 15" sub that was more than 1cuft that had a 1.5" thick baffle, with internal bracing, and heavy duty binding posts (I used to use binding posts that could take 4awg speaker wire... over kill, but really, binding posts that are built solidly, air tight, and can take 10awg easily should be standard, not privilege). Furthermore, sealing the seams from the inside of the box, and even doing a lil radius action on the corners using something like glass resin or body filler is good. For ported boxes, making sure the port ratio of height to width is kept as far away from 8:1 as possible is nice... not to mention rounding the port entrance and exits or using pre-made flared ports with an adequate port area.... but people don't really care bout that stuff... cause if you did all that, you could easily be paying somebody $500 for a small 2-3cuft ported box... and if you were to do it yourself it could take you a good 3-4 days to make it once you got done putting a nice finish on it (that wasn't paint), and still pay upwards of $100-200 on it.

And for those prices... why not just get into making a glassed box and have it look cool.

So,... to sum things up.... 99% of the population is lazy and the laziness is the weakest link in their system as it bleeds out in all aspects of the install. The way you install your equipment makes up for at least 60% of how your system sounds... if not 70 or 80%. There are some niffy tricks that are ghetto... but unless your entire install is pristine, which I doubt many people on this board can say... those tricks could save you a lot of time, money over other options, and still increase the current quality of sound in your car.

[YarisSedan]

Okay FINALLY got everything installed and in working order. Fried the old amp trying to bridge it to power the subs. Got my new alpine deck wired in. Then ran new 12 gauge wiring to the rear speakers and ran them in series at 4 ohms. Changed the RCA output from the rear channel to sub output so now i can control the subs with a quick push of the button which is convenient for neighborhoods or stop lights.

MAN OH MAN. They are much better than i expected. I would say its equivalent to 1 10 inch sub. Its enough to rattle my rear view mirror out of place. Only down side is the rear deck rattles like hell sometimes. The speakers arnt screwed in yet its such a tight space im gona have to try to drill holes from the bottom through the sheet metal and put a locknut and bolt through them i think. Then will lay some dynomat pieces to help dampen things a bit. Once thats done im sure it will sound even better.

I took it to the stereo shop when i had it first hooked up to see if i did something wrong or the problem is my amp is underpowered but they just laughed at said its just the way my speakers are. Now that i hooked everything up myself right i kinda wana go back and prove to them.

My only question is what should my HP and LP filters be set for. The deck is set at 80hz and i just set my LP to the same to match the deck. And my hp is set for 80hz as well.

[YarisSedan]

Its ghetto wired right now I didnt have any terminal ends so just twisted it around the connectors for right now.

[sleey0]

Interesting.

I would have went with some good 6x9's and a dedicated sub, but that's just me.

[YarisSedan]

Originally Posted by sleey0

Interesting.

I would have went with some good 6x9's and a dedicated sub, but that's just me.

Ideally with a large budget and trunk space that would be the way to go.

Ive read over and over again by many people on the forum that its better to spend money on good strong front components and that money spent on 6x9 rear speakers is just a waste. I do have strong components in the front and i drove around for almost a month with no rear speakers and i dont miss them.

Right now im happy to have all my available trunk space no significant added weight and fill in that low end that was missing.

[Ranger SVO]

Originally Posted by YarisSedan

Good to know i can just plop them in and call it a day. Only thing im worried about now is my rear deck rattaling like hell. I have some generic dynomat i think its called B-quite but the glue dosnt seem to stick very well i did my trunk i my other car and the stuff just started to fall off after awile and cause more rattles.

What would you recomend thats really good. I dont think price is much of a issue sine ill be doing just a small area ill only need a few feet.

Try some eDead 80. It really is good stuff and the price is right. Its sold by the square foot. Just buy what you need.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...roducts_id=786

[sleey0]

Originally Posted by YarisSedan

Ideally with a large budget and trunk space that would be the way to go.

Ive read over and over again by many people on the forum that its better to spend money on good strong front components and that money spent on 6x9 rear speakers is just a waste. I do have strong components in the front and i drove around for almost a month with no rear speakers and i dont miss them.

Right now im happy to have all my available trunk space no significant added weight and fill in that low end that was missing.

I understand, but saying that the rear speakers are insignificant is pretty short-sighted, IMO.

Rear speakers do have a use - too provide the mids and some low-end to the audio.

Everyone has there own opinion on this but after doing/hearing many systems, I believe that rears do in fact make a difference.

[YarisSedan]

Originally Posted by sleey0

I understand, but saying that the rear speakers are insignificant is pretty short-sighted, IMO.

Rear speakers do have a use - too provide the mids and some low-end to the audio.

Everyone has there own opinion on this but after doing/hearing many systems, I believe that rears do in fact make a difference.

I do have rear speakers still they are just better at providing mids and lows.

[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by sleey0

I understand, but saying that the rear speakers are insignificant is pretty short-sighted, IMO.

Rear speakers do have a use - too provide the mids and some low-end to the audio.

Everyone has there own opinion on this but after doing/hearing many systems, I believe that rears do in fact make a difference.

his comps do the mids & highs... the 6x9 TB subs do the lows... and much more lows than any 6x9" speaker can do that isn't a dedicated sub.

frankly, the location of a speaker in a car has less bearing on how high or low it can play compared to the way the speaker was designed/built. The 6x9's he bought were designed to play as subs... he should have a decent setup here once he gets the rear deck rattles fixed.


Yarissedan - when you mount your speakers put something like this on the backside of the mounting ring of the speakers. It's a sticky butyl-rubber/chewed gum like textured stuff that is great for sealing holes and getting rid of vibration when mounting speakers. You could also cut some thin strips of dynamat/deadener and stick it in the same place and get a similar result.

Deadener will help a lot on that rear deck, put it on the flat surfaces, those are the most important parts as they are the weakest points, curved metal is strong due to the curves/bends.

As for the x-over setting... 80hz is a good for the speakers, and i'd say play around with the sub settings... I'd personally drive around for a week at a different setting, try about three different settings and see which you like best. 80hz is probably where I would recommend you start at for the low pass since you don't have a dedicated midbass driver. I'd then try 90hz, then 100hz. and maybe a 120hz.

A high crossover will give you more midbass, which may or may not be a good thing. Everybody has different ears, so play around and see what you like. I personally like a very strong midbass region, but I don't like to hear it coming from the back... that's just me, and I don't have to listen to your system everyday, so go tweak.

[YarisSedan]

Originally Posted by talnlnky

his comps do the mids & highs... the 6x9 TB subs do the lows... and much more lows than any 6x9" speaker can do that isn't a dedicated sub.

frankly, the location of a speaker in a car has less bearing on how high or low it can play compared to the way the speaker was designed/built. The 6x9's he bought were designed to play as subs... he should have a decent setup here once he gets the rear deck rattles fixed.


Yarissedan - when you mount your speakers put something like this on the backside of the mounting ring of the speakers. It's a sticky butyl-rubber/chewed gum like textured stuff that is great for sealing holes and getting rid of vibration when mounting speakers. You could also cut some thin strips of dynamat/deadener and stick it in the same place and get a similar result.

Deadener will help a lot on that rear deck, put it on the flat surfaces, those are the most important parts as they are the weakest points, curved metal is strong due to the curves/bends.

As for the x-over setting... 80hz is a good for the speakers, and i'd say play around with the sub settings... I'd personally drive around for a week at a different setting, try about three different settings and see which you like best. 80hz is probably where I would recommend you start at for the low pass since you don't have a dedicated midbass driver. I'd then try 90hz, then 100hz. and maybe a 120hz.

A high crossover will give you more midbass, which may or may not be a good thing. Everybody has different ears, so play around and see what you like. I personally like a very strong midbass region, but I don't like to hear it coming from the back... that's just me, and I don't have to listen to your system everyday, so go tweak.

Thanks for the advise. I actually bought fatmat on ebay already few minutes before i read your post. Seemed to have decent reviews was 20 bucks shipped for 10 foot roll which is more than plenty for what i need. I plan to double it up around the mating surface of the subs. I noticed some areas there is a gap it dosnt sit 100 percent flush. I might have to take a dremel and widen the hole just a slight slight tad. I think the fatmat too will help cover up all the holes in the deck cause there are quite a few and make the bass a little better.

Also any leftover i can put a small amount around the door speakers as they do rattle the door panels a tiny bit as well. I located it mostly to the portion where you can put your water bottle in place its a seperate piece of plastic thats slid int a slot in the door if that makes sense. I am thinking of putting a bead of silicon where they mate to dampen the vibration it makes.

[YarisSedan]

What do you think about using one of these?

http://www.autotoys.com/x/catalog/SP...ER_p_1583.html