Most important guages for boosted engines? - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

cali yaris · 10-30-2008, 08:15 PM

the remedy is to stop driving.

I'm looking into some aluminum radiators for our cars, I know mine will benefit from running a little cooler under boost.

rob323 · 10-30-2008, 08:41 PM

One item that will be on my car (an Echo, not a Yaris) before it starts competing will be a shift light, but not used as a shift light. It will be hooked up to the oil pressure sensor. By the time an oil pressure gauge drops, and by the time you actually notice it has dropped, it can be and usually is too late. A big ass bright light in your face on the other hand at least gives you a chance of saving your motor.

And for any forced induction car, a knock sensor and gauge.

largeorangefont · 10-30-2008, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

the remedy is to stop driving.

I'm looking into some aluminum radiators for our cars, I know mine will benefit from running a little cooler under boost.

Your coolant temps are hot under boost? or EGT?

LtNoogie · 10-31-2008, 05:37 PM

Ok, I need a little bit more clarification.

A wideband A/F will read exhaust O2 levels and calculate whether I'm running lean or rich.

An EGT will measure my exhaust gas temperature.

I already have an O2 sensor in my header. Do I need to have a muffler shop poke two more holes in my exhaust system to put in the A/F and EGT sensors? I am assuming I should put this after the header and before the cat, right?

cali yaris · 10-31-2008, 05:55 PM

You actually have a 0-5v A/F sensor in your header, just to be clear.

Yes, you will need another bung for the other sensors you add in that path. I don't think EGT is a critical one, but that's just my opinion.

If you're adding a bung for an A/F sensor, it should be as soon after the existing one as possible.

LtNoogie · 10-31-2008, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

You actually have a 0-5v A/F sensor in your header, just to be clear.

That's what I thought but I figured that the signal only went to the ECU. Can I splice into that set of wires to feed the A/F also?

largeorangefont · 10-31-2008, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

That's what I thought but I figured that the signal only went to the ECU. Can I splice into that set of wires to feed the A/F also?

No, the stock sensor is a narrowband sensor. The wideband will come with the wideband 02 sensor you need to use.

battleversiontc · 10-31-2008, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

You actually have a 0-5v A/F sensor in your header, just to be clear.

Yes, you will need another bung for the other sensors you add in that path. I don't think EGT is a critical one, but that's just my opinion.

If you're adding a bung for an A/F sensor, it should be as soon after the existing one as possible.

but as 0-5v sensor is a wideband and 0-1v is a narrowband

there's narrow band and wide band o2 sensors, they are both a/f sensors

narrow band, like nearly all cars have are normally referred as just "o2's"
and they either read rich or lean, hence the term narrow band

a wide band o2 sensor is comonnly called a "wideband" or "air/fuel sensor" it reads more in depth and allows for more precise tuning of the air fuel ratio.

battleversiontc · 10-31-2008, 06:19 PM

isnt there two sensors the first one closet to the header was a wideband and the second one after the cat a narrowband

cali yaris · 10-31-2008, 06:40 PM

no. the first one is an A/F, the second (between the cats) an O2.

Quote:

the wideband will come with the wideband 02 sensor you need to use.

battleversiontc · 10-31-2008, 07:24 PM

http://www.aa1car.com/library/o2sensor.htm
http://www.aa1car.com/library/wraf.htm

LtNoogie · 11-22-2008, 02:38 AM

Can I get a single combo Boost/Vacuum gauge or does it have to be boost only?

Does this mean that the intake manifold pressure will show max vacuum at idle and then swing to low vacuum at WOT (S/C not engaged) to boosted psi if the S/C is spinning?

It's been a while since I thought about how an engine functions.

eTiMaGo · 11-22-2008, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

Can I get a single combo Boost/Vacuum gauge or does it have to be boost only?

Does this mean that the intake manifold pressure will show max vacuum at idle and then swing to low vacuum at WOT (S/C not engaged) to boosted psi if the S/C is spinning?

It's been a while since I thought about how an engine functions.

I've seen those around, sounds like a good combo!

365Motorwerks · 11-26-2008, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

Can I get a single combo Boost/Vacuum gauge or does it have to be boost only?

Does this mean that the intake manifold pressure will show max vacuum at idle and then swing to low vacuum at WOT (S/C not engaged) to boosted psi if the S/C is spinning?

It's been a while since I thought about how an engine functions.

That's the kind I run, heck I even use the vacuum function the more vacuum you see the better your mileage!

This is the same one but I swapped the face and ring to black..

cali yaris · 11-22-2008, 11:24 AM

battleversion -- great links!

Just because it's 0-5v does not mean it's a wideband sensor like the kind that come with gauges. The Yaris sensor is a proprietary, unusual hybrid design. To demonstrate this, you cannot replace it with a 0-5v wideband A/F sensor and have it work. (see bold print below)

The rear sensor is an "normal" O2 sensor.

Quote:

A WRAF sensor is essentially a smarter oxygen sensor with some additional internal circuitry that allows it to precisely determine the exact air/fuel ratio of the engine. Like an ordinary oxygen sensor, it reacts to changing oxygen levels in the exhaust. But unlike an ordinary oxygen sensor, the output signal from a WRAF sensor does not change abruptly when the air/fuel mixture goes rich or lean.

largeorangefont · 11-26-2008, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

battleversion -- great links!

Just because it's 0-5v does not mean it's a wideband sensor like the kind that come with gauges. The Yaris sensor is a proprietary, unusual hybrid design. To demonstrate this, you cannot replace it with a 0-5v wideband A/F sensor and have it work. (see bold print below)

The rear sensor is an "normal" O2 sensor.

That is describing a wideband sensor.

cali yaris · 11-26-2008, 07:09 PM

Quote:

That is describing a wideband sensor.

right... and then there was the rest of my post (which you quoted). Try plugging in a nice Bosch universal wideband sensor in that first bung and running it to your ECU.

I'm simply saying it's not the same.

largeorangefont · 11-27-2008, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

right... and then there was the rest of my post (which you quoted). Try plugging in a nice Bosch universal wideband sensor in that first bung and running it to your ECU.

I'm simply saying it's not the same.

I didn't say is was a Bosch wideband sensor. There are no "universal" wideband sensors. Then ones you are thinking of that are most commonly used are actually VW parts.

Hondas used NTK wideband sensors, and then whatever the Yaris has in it. Coud be NTK or Denso.

10-30-2008, 08:15 PM	#1
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	the remedy is to stop driving. I'm looking into some aluminum radiators for our cars, I know mine will benefit from running a little cooler under boost. __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

10-31-2008, 05:37 PM	#4
LtNoogie View User's Garage Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: West Hills, CA Posts: 2,517	Ok, I need a little bit more clarification. A wideband A/F will read exhaust O2 levels and calculate whether I'm running lean or rich. An EGT will measure my exhaust gas temperature. I already have an O2 sensor in my header. Do I need to have a muffler shop poke two more holes in my exhaust system to put in the A/F and EGT sensors? I am assuming I should put this after the header and before the cat, right? __________________ aFe Intake \| Blitz Supercharger \| Megan Header \| TRD Exhaust \| NST Pulley Set TRD Shocks/Struts \| Tanabe NF210 Springs \| TRD Sway Bar \| Motegi TRAKLITE wheels \| Kuhmo Ecsta XS R1 Concepts slotted rotors \| Carbotech 1521 brake pads \| stainless steel brake lines \| Seibon vented carbon fiber hood

10-31-2008, 05:55 PM	#5
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	You actually have a 0-5v A/F sensor in your header, just to be clear. Yes, you will need another bung for the other sensors you add in that path. I don't think EGT is a critical one, but that's just my opinion. If you're adding a bung for an A/F sensor, it should be as soon after the existing one as possible. __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

10-31-2008, 06:19 PM	#9
battleversiontc View User's Garage Drives: 08 vip yaris Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: 808 Posts: 501	isnt there two sensors the first one closet to the header was a wideband and the second one after the cat a narrowband __________________ 08 junction produce belta almost done and ready for paint 06 junction produce tc 604 bhp 445tq ddriven still trying for 700+hp 90 crx sir ls vtec turbo 755 hp mecp masters certified

10-31-2008, 07:24 PM	#11
battleversiontc View User's Garage Drives: 08 vip yaris Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: 808 Posts: 501	http://www.aa1car.com/library/o2sensor.htm http://www.aa1car.com/library/wraf.htm __________________ 08 junction produce belta almost done and ready for paint 06 junction produce tc 604 bhp 445tq ddriven still trying for 700+hp 90 crx sir ls vtec turbo 755 hp mecp masters certified

10-30-2008, 08:41 PM	#2
rob323 Don't drive it, RALLY it! Drives: 1999 echo PRC rally car Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Joyner, Brisbane Posts: 321	One item that will be on my car (an Echo, not a Yaris) before it starts competing will be a shift light, but not used as a shift light. It will be hooked up to the oil pressure sensor. By the time an oil pressure gauge drops, and by the time you actually notice it has dropped, it can be and usually is too late. A big ass bright light in your face on the other hand at least gives you a chance of saving your motor. And for any forced induction car, a knock sensor and gauge.

11-22-2008, 02:38 AM	#12
LtNoogie View User's Garage Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: West Hills, CA Posts: 2,517	Can I get a single combo Boost/Vacuum gauge or does it have to be boost only? Does this mean that the intake manifold pressure will show max vacuum at idle and then swing to low vacuum at WOT (S/C not engaged) to boosted psi if the S/C is spinning? It's been a while since I thought about how an engine functions. __________________ aFe Intake \| Blitz Supercharger \| Megan Header \| TRD Exhaust \| NST Pulley Set TRD Shocks/Struts \| Tanabe NF210 Springs \| TRD Sway Bar \| Motegi TRAKLITE wheels \| Kuhmo Ecsta XS R1 Concepts slotted rotors \| Carbotech 1521 brake pads \| stainless steel brake lines \| Seibon vented carbon fiber hood

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