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Old 04-30-2009, 02:17 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by detroiter View Post
Another question to help clear some things up is if someone is running stock rim and tire size, why would they rub with the DF springs? I'd imagine that Tanabe wouldn't build a spring they know would purposely rub on a stock setup for the car, even with a full car load of luggage or people. And even if so, I'd imagine as well if the springs were paired up with a nice set of performance based shocks/struts, there would not be a problem at all.
I'm running stock 15" steelies and DFs without any rubbing at all. With 3 people in the car it's fine unless I get to a speed bump!
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:19 AM   #20
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Why?

I suppose there is because of the milder drop and some rubbing issues with wheel and tire combinations. In terms of ride and responsiveness, there is no advantage to the TRD springs.
Do you have the TRD rates to compare to the Tanabe's? Without knowing both spring rates you couldn't really say which spring is better. I believe TRD's (and Eibachs) are progressive, and Tanabes are linear. The TRD coils and shocks are matched to each other as well, which I would see as a advantage.
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Old 05-01-2009, 01:06 AM   #21
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Interesting thread, as dropping Sprocket has been something I have been considering for a while. I am running 215/45ZR17 Riken Raptor ZR tires on American Eagle 17" MSR Style 138 rims with +42mm of backspacing, but usually am alone in my car or at most have my 110 lb son riding shotgun. Would the DF210s rub much with those tires? I have scrapped the nose of the car a few times from hitting dips in the road a bit too fast, and worry that I would be doing some serious damage if I dropped it 1.7"

Also, are replacement shocks necessary for a drop? How about an alignment afterward?

Sorry for all the questions but this seemed like a good thread to get them answered...

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Old 05-01-2009, 09:16 AM   #22
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M2,

I run DF210's with 17x7 +42 wheels, just like yours. I also only rub if I turn the wheel all the way before moving.

Other than that, even with 3 other people in the car, I don't rub at all.

You can use the stock shocks/struts with these springs. You do need an alignment after 2 weeks of letting the springs "settle."

Hope I answered your questions.
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Old 05-01-2009, 09:32 AM   #23
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I'm going with the TRD springs simply because I don't want to lower the car TOO much. I've done that once on a past car and regretted it. Once I went back to a higher, non "dumping" spring the car handled a lot better. There is a point when low is too low...

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Old 05-01-2009, 09:41 AM   #24
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It also depends a lot on your wheel/tire size. I ran DF210's with 15's and it had a pretty noticable gap.

But remember, you can always re-sell and upgrade if you ever feel like it's needed.
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Old 05-01-2009, 10:22 AM   #25
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so no one knows the rates of H&R's?
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Old 05-01-2009, 10:23 AM   #26
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and dont forget that the teins are even stiffer than the "title contenders" at 3kgF/3.5kR
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Old 05-01-2009, 10:47 AM   #27
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Quote:
so no one knows the rates of H&R's?
That is correct - they are progressive springs and they don't publish that data.
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Old 05-01-2009, 11:17 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
That is correct - they are progressive springs and they don't publish that data.
don't you carry them? you should be able to put them on a rate tester.
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:52 PM   #29
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I also prefer a stiffer ride over stock. Tanabe designed the springs that way because 15% offsets the amount they lower the car (the NF210's, with a milder drop are 5% over stock). So you get a lowered car with about the same ride quality. In my experience, the ride is actually just a little bit stiffer than stock.

I have NF210's and my car looks low enough for me, I like the looks and love the ride, much better than stock (not as mushy and not as stiff, just right)


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Old 05-01-2009, 02:21 PM   #30
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M2,

I run DF210's with 17x7 +42 wheels, just like yours. I also only rub if I turn the wheel all the way before moving.

Other than that, even with 3 other people in the car, I don't rub at all.

You can use the stock shocks/struts with these springs. You do need an alignment after 2 weeks of letting the springs "settle."

Hope I answered your questions.
It does, thanks! And your Yaris is motivation to get them on, as your drop looks great!

Cheers! M2
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Old 05-01-2009, 02:30 PM   #31
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Thank you Max! I know you won't be dissapointed with DF's!
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Old 05-01-2009, 04:37 PM   #32
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sorry, i should have specified, i did not mean that the rates are lower than stock, i mean that they're lower than they should be, considering the amount of drop they offer.
truth. I run DF 210s and they need to be a lot stiffer. I rub all the time on bumps, especially if I have people in the back seat.
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Old 05-01-2009, 04:40 PM   #33
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truth. I run DF 210s and they need to be a lot stiffer. I rub all the time on bumps, especially if I have people in the back seat.
What wheel size/offset are you running?
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Old 05-01-2009, 06:23 PM   #34
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I say go with the C-One springs/Struts. :D

or some Tanabe GF210s I know they make them, just need to get them from japan.
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Old 05-01-2009, 06:26 PM   #35
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They don't make GF210's for our car.

Quote:
don't you carry them? you should be able to put them on a rate tester.
I don't have a rate tester.

I have some new springs from China that are going out to a test car today. They are 4k front / 3.1k rear, stiffer than the C-One springs, I think. Hope to have a review soon.
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Old 05-01-2009, 06:39 PM   #36
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YES THEY DO!!

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