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05-01-2009, 08:24 PM | #19 |
super duper M*******TOR
Drives: 2007 jahPANIS egg(Sarao Phil) Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Torrance, Ca
Posts: 1,011
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sorry, did not check the torque rating...looks really cheap though but it does the job...
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05-01-2009, 08:47 PM | #20 |
Drives: 2008 xD Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Boston
Posts: 16
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I had this type of problem putting springs in my xD last weekend. Couldnt get that nut to budge. What we finally did was instead of holding the allen wrench still and turning the 17mm wrench, we held the wrench still and turned the allen wrench. Broke free right away but make sure you are pressing the allen wrench the opposite way that you think you should. Hope this makes sense. If the Yaris is the same it was impossible to turn the 17mm and keep it on the nut at at the same time at that angle.
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05-01-2009, 11:40 PM | #21 |
Drives: 1998 EL, 2000 Civic, 2008 Yari Join Date: May 2009
Location: Toronto
Posts: 36
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I've bought my springs for a year. Finally got around to doing it....All I can say is I much rather work on my other cars. Never have I encountered a random 6mm allen key...sighh...My girls car is a low rider rite now, front stock and rear slammed, I gotta wait for the store to open tmw...
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05-02-2009, 04:57 AM | #22 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
Posts: 2,773
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+1 on moving the alan wrench. It is what i did. I ended up getting a small long tube to put on the end of the wrench to make it like a breaker bar. And then it broke free. Just make sure 100 percent you have the right size alan key.
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05-02-2009, 05:11 AM | #23 |
I ♥ Yaris
Drives: Black 08 LB MT & red 97 Miata Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Indianapolis IN
Posts: 1,313
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The top nut was a stone bitch for mine...
I covered the install here... http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...5&postcount=34 once i figured out the shroud had to come off and the right kind of offset wrench, it took a lot of liquid wrench, and cursing
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The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt. - Bertrand Russell |
05-02-2009, 11:10 AM | #24 |
Drives: 08 BB LB Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Maiden, NC
Posts: 785
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I hit it with a impact and it just popped right off.
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05-02-2009, 06:26 PM | #25 |
Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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I removed the cowl and used an impact gun to take the top nut off, so no allen wrench required... no problems at all.
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05-02-2009, 06:57 PM | #26 |
XBL: Jeemee Ghost
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It is raining pretty bad right now and my phone says it will continue to do so all week. As soon as the weather permits I'll complete the install.
Last night I once again attempted with my 18v impact driver and it moved it all the way to the top then couldn't overcome the spinning bolt. I'm certain with some pb blaster and a few short blasts with the impact it shouldn't be a problem. My impact was quite noisy in the silence of my neighborhood, plus it was starting to storm so I called it a night. For anyone who hasn't done this install and plans to, I'd recommend you investing in an impact. Makes the install faster and easier. $30 for the 12v one at Autozone, I think he said.
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_________________________________________________ Nitto Axle-Back--Tanabe DF210s--UR 23mm Rear Sway Bar--Penguin Garage 10mm Hub Spacers |
05-03-2009, 01:08 AM | #27 |
It's the illusion you see
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brossard, QC
Posts: 3,888
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jeemee: did you actually compress the springs before trying to undo the top bolt (the one that is holding the top plate to the strut.
Ok, i may be more confusing than anything else.. is the whole thing still attached to the car? |
05-03-2009, 05:04 PM | #28 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: University Place,WA
Posts: 828
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6mm allen wrench on the center and a offset 17mm box wrench on the top bolt and it comes right off.....remove the 3 bolts holding strut to the car,remove the brake line,remove the 2 bolts holding strut to car via a arm....
drop jack down fromthe strut and tap with mallet if it does not drop right down,be sure brake line is off of it,take out strut and put on spring compressors,once compressed remove the second bolt,which will come right out at this point,then install new spring,no need to use compressor with the DFs to reinstall as it all fits back together,cut bump stop and put plate back on and reinstall to car....... very easy. |
05-03-2009, 05:14 PM | #29 |
Drives: 09 Yaris HB, 08 SR5 Tundra Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: RGV, Texas
Posts: 1,086
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i don't think anyone is confused with the steps... just having trouble completing one of them.
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05-04-2009, 12:12 PM | #30 |
Drives: '08 Yaris Sedan, Aero Package Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,720
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Applying ample torque to loosen the top nut while holding the allen key can be a frustrating and painful experience. My car was relatively new plus I had all the correct tools and it was still a struggle. Once it pops you're good a gold. But until then...OUCH!!!
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TRD Upgrades: 18" Wheels wrapped in 215/35/18 PZero's, Sportivo Shocks/Struts, Lowering Springs, Swaybar, Axle-Back Exhaust, Oil Cap, Rad Cap, Signage. Aftermarket Goodies: Piggies SS, K&N Drop-In, Blitz S/C, DC Header, NST Pulley) Toyota Options/Accessories: Sport Pedal Covers, Sport Shift Knob, Ipod Interface, Summer Mats, Winter Mats, Cruise Control, Auto-Dim Mirror, Echo steelies with winter boots. |
05-04-2009, 12:15 PM | #31 |
Drives: '08 Yaris Sedan, Aero Package Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,720
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Applying ample torque to loosen the top nut (show above in the diagram) while holding the allen key (to secure the shaft) can be a frustrating and painful experience. My car was relatively new and I had all the correct tools and it was still a struggle. Once it pops you're good a gold. But until then...OUCH!!! Super long allen keys would certainly help. A rigid tube over the keys long side to extend it and provide more leverage would certainly help.
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TRD Upgrades: 18" Wheels wrapped in 215/35/18 PZero's, Sportivo Shocks/Struts, Lowering Springs, Swaybar, Axle-Back Exhaust, Oil Cap, Rad Cap, Signage. Aftermarket Goodies: Piggies SS, K&N Drop-In, Blitz S/C, DC Header, NST Pulley) Toyota Options/Accessories: Sport Pedal Covers, Sport Shift Knob, Ipod Interface, Summer Mats, Winter Mats, Cruise Control, Auto-Dim Mirror, Echo steelies with winter boots. |
05-07-2009, 11:07 PM | #32 |
XBL: Jeemee Ghost
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Ok so I ran into yet another problem. Here's my question: After one installs the tanabe df210s on the front, how many threads stick above the top nut once completely tight? More than with stock springs?
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_________________________________________________ Nitto Axle-Back--Tanabe DF210s--UR 23mm Rear Sway Bar--Penguin Garage 10mm Hub Spacers |
05-08-2009, 08:23 AM | #33 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris Liftback (Sprocket) Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: San Antonio, Texas!
Posts: 2,799
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Have you tried a breaker bar? What about PB Blaster? Both of those were great in helping me put a suspension lift on my Jeep, and I plan to use them again when I get some DF210s for my Yaris...
But I will be honest, I am not looking forward to doing the front springs! Last edited by MadMax; 05-08-2009 at 08:49 AM. |
05-08-2009, 01:59 PM | #34 | |
XBL: Jeemee Ghost
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Quote:
As for the front springs, I think if you just skip the whole 6mm allen step and just use a good impact (one with 200+ ft/lbs of torque) it would be a rather easy install. I hope you have much better luck than I. I've personally have had so much trouble with the front, I thinking I might just wait until I can order so struts (considering Tokico Blues.)
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_________________________________________________ Nitto Axle-Back--Tanabe DF210s--UR 23mm Rear Sway Bar--Penguin Garage 10mm Hub Spacers |
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05-08-2009, 11:11 PM | #35 |
daily driver
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there will be more threads sticking thru the top of the strut top because the df's will be shorter than stock springs
the spring/strut combo up front is compressed together with a nut and cap that are separate from the nut you remove in the engine bay the process is 100x easier w/ an impact wrench...i used one installing my coilovers and had no issues removing the top nut.......however i sprayed every nut w/ penetrating lube the day before the install so all the nuts would crack easily... hope the rest of your install goes smoother...!
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