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#19 |
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Yeah, Brian and I have had several discussions as to the best way to wrap the pockets. In the end, he says he has tried but has a difficult time getting it to come out perfect. We discussed several methods, all of which are a pita, however I think he came up with a winner. So I will be the guinea pig on the pocket plan lol. The fall back plan is to paint it (insert preferred color here) and clear coat it so its shiny in the pocket and just wrap the CF down into the pocket over the edge a small bit.
That particular section is next on my wrapping list lol.
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In a world... where things squeak, wont fit,start to bleed, or are just plain hard to do.... ArmorAll will fix that
Last edited by Slick; 10-23-2010 at 02:21 AM. |
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#20 |
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Yeah, that is the general idea. However, the first piece for the pocket is the pita part lol. CF acts like no other fabric; its firm and yet at the same time the weave can easily come apart. You can't bend CF around more than a couple of sharp corners without consequences. The hard part is trying to get the CF in the hole without it fraying during placement or fraying while adding the resign. Usually you keep the weave straight using tape on the ends, then apply the resign, then cut off the extra. The resign keeps the weave in place once dry. However, with the pocket, there is no way for tape to be applied to keep the weave straight.
Feel free to PM me with any questions or thoughts :)
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In a world... where things squeak, wont fit,start to bleed, or are just plain hard to do.... ArmorAll will fix that
Last edited by Slick; 10-23-2010 at 02:19 AM. |
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#21 |
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Alright, here is another mini-update, I made another pass with the Ultra Cut and topped it with some Megs Deep Crystal Polish.
aqq.jpg I applied the clear coat a little after this picture was taken and its in the shop now drying. So, hopefully it will look twice as shiny/reflective as it does now. I should be able to touch it sometime later this evening. I'll update tomorrow when I get the clear coat wet sanded :) Im so close to finishing this piece I can taste it :D
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In a world... where things squeak, wont fit,start to bleed, or are just plain hard to do.... ArmorAll will fix that
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#22 |
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Amazing work. Love the finished product can't wait to see it installed!
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#23 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 09' Meteorite liftback Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Jeff,Indiana
Posts: 1,374
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that looks great!!!!
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#24 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 07 Yaris 3dr LB (Bayou Blue) Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 2,602
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amazing, love how it matches your car's colour!
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-Jen <3 ![]() Quote:
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#25 |
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prop215.
Drives: Toyota Yaris LB Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 52
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Nicely done!
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#26 |
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What to Mod Next?
Drives: 2008 3Dr HB, Bayou Blue Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: U.S. AZ
Posts: 22
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I have used CF, Kevlar and fiberglass extensively while building an experimental aircraft (http://www.cozyaircraft.com/). Here are a few tips that I have picked up working with resin and glass.
Tip 1: First the fabric will almost always fray at the edges when cut. What we typically do is to wet out the fabric with resin about 1/4" to 1/2" past the edge of the material. Let the resin partially cure, the resin that I use takes a full 24 hours to cure and is semi cured at about 2 hours. Once it is partially cured take a sharp razor knife (utility knife) and you can trim the material nice and neatly without fraying. Knife trimming while it is partially cured will save you HOURS from sanding and cutting a fully cured piece. Tip 2: None of the materials like to go around sharp corners without lifting off the surface and creating a bubble near the edge. To get around this I use plastic sheeting a thin sheet (about 3 mils) works well. After you wet out the fabric with resin lay the sheet on top of the fabric and then squeegee or stipple the sheet onto the wet fabric. The plastic will do two things, it removes the air from resin and when the resin cures you can pull the plastic off the surface with ease. It will leave the surface shiny and level. Tip 3: If you don't know how to work with the fabric, it is less expensive to buy fiberglass and experiment with that, than to start with CF. You can buy what is known as a BID weave fiberglass that has very similar characteristics as the CF. |
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#27 |
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Very informative, thank you. Although, CF in my opinion isn't really that hard to work with. If there is one thing I can say to new people such as myself and others is to not be afraid of it. So far I have had excellent success with my first attempt and look forward to the rest of the project :D
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In a world... where things squeak, wont fit,start to bleed, or are just plain hard to do.... ArmorAll will fix that
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#28 |
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Another update, I added the clear coat to the first piece last week and I was finally able to add the clear to two of the other pieces. So far they have came out just as I had hoped They still need a wet sand in a couple places and then some rubbing compound and polish and wax. But overall I am pleased with the way everything has come together. Let me know what ya'll think.
aqqq.jpg aqqqq.jpg Again, sorry about the photo quality. Im also sorry about the lighting; its dark outside so I had to find a place with as much light as possible (queue the chandelier) lol
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In a world... where things squeak, wont fit,start to bleed, or are just plain hard to do.... ArmorAll will fix that
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#29 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,054
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loooooooooking goooooooooooood
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C-Lift ![]() -------------------------------------------------------------- Current Mods: MI Armrest; Full LED conversion (interior and exterior); RS spoiler; Tinted windows; Tanabe DF210 lowering springs; aftermarket door speakers; 12" RF P3 subwoofer with custom box wrapped in Neffy; seat covers; HID 8000K headlights; HID 3000K foglights; 13mm PG hub spacers; muffler delete with dual tip; eyelids; and.. A little red Domo mascot!
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#30 |
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Wow
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#31 |
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looks truly amazing!
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#32 |
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HURRAY! I have fully completed 3 pieces I also have decent high res pics to accompany them Today I put the hammer down and did the final wet sand, buff, polish, and wax on 3 pieces. These pieces are ready to be put back on the car. Sorry, no car pics lol. I learned the hard way the consequences of putting on and removing trim pieces too many times. Anyway, I am very satisfied with the end result. Although I think I could have done a little better job on the bigger piece, its the minor flaws that get me But overall I am a very happy camper. I hope everyone enjoys the pics!
100_1941.JPG 100_1937.JPG 100_1945.JPG 100_1939.JPG 100_1946.JPG Thanks everyone for the comments and putting up with the other iphone pictures Enjoy!
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In a world... where things squeak, wont fit,start to bleed, or are just plain hard to do.... ArmorAll will fix that
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#33 |
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The finished product is absolutly amazing! Great work!!
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#34 |
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prop215.
Drives: Toyota Yaris LB Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 52
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want to put them in the car and then take pictures?
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#35 |
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Maxxxxxx: I would rather not just yet. The right side has two of the three pieces finished, but the long armrest piece is still grey. The left side only has one pieces finished. Although the finished look would be close, I believe the missing and half complete panels would really take away from the overall effect.
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In a world... where things squeak, wont fit,start to bleed, or are just plain hard to do.... ArmorAll will fix that
Last edited by Slick; 10-29-2010 at 09:00 PM. |
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#36 |
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prop215.
Drives: Toyota Yaris LB Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 52
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true true, well i can't wait for the finished product. i hate correcting people but it is maxx, i got named after tj maxx hahahaha lame right
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