Big 3 question - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

sqcomp · 04-29-2012, 04:51 PM

You should be able to use a larger rated fuse.

The wire gauge is all about resistance. The less resistance/surface area the wire has, the better. 0 gauge is sweet, but if you have to use 4 gauge...

"4 awg 131 amps 1084 watts 1355 watts" -BCAE1.com

IMHO, the wire kit manufacturers say "1000" Watts to specify how much Wattage off your amps at minimum the wire can handle. Another example is what the Army uses for their 100 Ampere runs...They use 0000 gauge main insulated wires in a massively protected sleeve run. Take a look at this pic:

See the giant wire running across the front of the generator? That's our power wire. >:D In this instance we use two different types of power wire. This size and one like the roll that you can see in the background on the grass there. That's the "small one". The military rates the big wire run as 100 Amperes. *chuckle* It'll handle a wee bit more than that. Imagine what that one can handle when your 4 gauge can truly handle 100+ Amperes. To put it in perspective, these generators create 100 kW...of true power.

In my case I'm running 0 gauge back to the distro block, fusing the one in to three out and then running all 4 gauge power to each of my three amplifiers.

09sedan · 04-29-2012, 05:16 PM

I see, i was quoted 220$ by a performance alternator builder that was posted on this site for me to send my factory alternator rebuilt to output 160 amps, if i go 0gauge it will leave me with room to expand if i decided to... Hmm.. I think i know what to do now :)

packetrace · 04-29-2012, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Tolm,

Why the fuse placement on the other side of the engine bay?

@packetrace - you mean the heat shrink? :)

I meant the techflex...where did you bought it ?

sqcomp · 04-29-2012, 10:24 PM

If you like that techflex, you'll trip on my speaker wire runs and my cooling fan run.

I get my techflex from various sources. Take a look at the seller, on eBay. That's a start.

CharlieBravo · 04-30-2012, 11:16 PM

Here's what I did with mine.

packetrace · 05-01-2012, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sqcomp

If you like that techflex, you'll trip on my speaker wire runs and my cooling fan run.

I get my techflex from various sources. Take a look at the seller, on eBay. That's a start.

Have pics ?

I really like the look of it!!

sqcomp · 05-01-2012, 01:32 AM

I'll have to take pics of my sub wiring. It's a cool black & white checker pattern.

Oh and these pics are from early last month. It's a little more tidy now.

packetrace · 05-01-2012, 10:39 AM

WOW !! thats is very nice!!!!!!! WHat is the material over the roadkill ?

sqcomp · 05-01-2012, 10:56 AM

That is ensolite foam. Personally, after trying Ensolite, Dynaliner, and Overkill...overkill puts them all to shame in it's performance.

How's that for an opinion? :)

_S7V7N_ · 05-01-2012, 12:35 PM

I'd be careful putting such a big fuse on that 4 gauge, it may actually be 6 gauge. Especially on such a long run.

Also here's some reading material on actual test on different brands of wire.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wirin...omparison.html

_S7V7N_ · 05-01-2012, 12:45 PM

Note if this wire ever came lose the first thing it would touch would be the hood of the car and cause a short hopefully one of the diodes to your alt will burn up before you car catches fire.

packetrace · 05-01-2012, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sqcomp

That is ensolite foam. Personally, after trying Ensolite, Dynaliner, and Overkill...overkill puts them all to shame in it's performance.

How's that for an opinion? :)

Thats perfect!! I treated my front doors with overkill so far...

I will receive ensolite this week and MAT...I'll order roadkill to cover the whole car! :D

sqcomp · 05-01-2012, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _S7V7N_

Note if this wire ever came lose the first thing it would touch would be the hood of the car and cause a short hopefully one of the diodes to your alt will burn up before you car catches fire.

That is why I ran my wire with the OEM bundling under the engine cover. If that's good enough for an OEM location, then it's good enough for me.

_S7V7N_ · 05-01-2012, 07:13 PM

I know yours has to be a snug fit cause I used a good 4 gauge and it fit in there tight. I could imagine how 0 gauge must be. I feel comfortable running up to 150 amps on my 4 gauge just because the run is only like 3 feet.

I don't know why you'd wanna run that wire and put the fuse on the engine cover. I can understand wanting to show off that beefy wire but I wouldn't feel comfortable with all the vibration hitting that fuse constantly while the cars on.

CharlieBravo · 05-01-2012, 10:22 PM

OEM run is still there. Fuse holder is zip tied to the cover. Its been 3 months and everything is still holding. Oh yeah, this was my first time attempting the Big 3. I do appreciate any and all comments though!

_S7V7N_ · 05-01-2012, 11:22 PM

The fuse is secured but what happens if your wire comes out to the left of your fuse ? That wire is not secured. Unless you are 100 % sure that screw will never loosen with all that vibration i'd try to find a way to secure it better. What you really worry about is a front end collision as long as your car shuts off you're fine but if it keeps running and that wire is knocked loose. Instant fire.

CharlieBravo · 05-02-2012, 11:19 PM

Valid concern. I'll see what I can do this weekend.

04-29-2012, 04:51 PM	#19
sqcomp Roadrunner Jr. View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris S Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Back at home Posts: 2,609	You should be able to use a larger rated fuse. The wire gauge is all about resistance. The less resistance/surface area the wire has, the better. 0 gauge is sweet, but if you have to use 4 gauge... "4 awg 131 amps 1084 watts 1355 watts" -BCAE1.com IMHO, the wire kit manufacturers say "1000" Watts to specify how much Wattage off your amps at minimum the wire can handle. Another example is what the Army uses for their 100 Ampere runs...They use 0000 gauge main insulated wires in a massively protected sleeve run. Take a look at this pic: See the giant wire running across the front of the generator? That's our power wire. >:D In this instance we use two different types of power wire. This size and one like the roll that you can see in the background on the grass there. That's the "small one". The military rates the big wire run as 100 Amperes. chuckle It'll handle a wee bit more than that. Imagine what that one can handle when your 4 gauge can truly handle 100+ Amperes. To put it in perspective, these generators create 100 kW...of true power. In my case I'm running 0 gauge back to the distro block, fusing the one in to three out and then running all 4 gauge power to each of my three amplifiers. __________________ “To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine Last edited by sqcomp; 04-29-2012 at 05:05 PM.

04-29-2012, 10:24 PM	#22
sqcomp Roadrunner Jr. View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris S Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Back at home Posts: 2,609	If you like that techflex, you'll trip on my speaker wire runs and my cooling fan run. I get my techflex from various sources. Take a look at the seller, on eBay. That's a start. __________________ “To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine

05-01-2012, 01:32 AM	#25
sqcomp Roadrunner Jr. View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris S Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Back at home Posts: 2,609	I'll have to take pics of my sub wiring. It's a cool black & white checker pattern. Oh and these pics are from early last month. It's a little more tidy now. __________________ “To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine

05-01-2012, 10:39 AM	#26
packetrace Drives: Yaris Sedan 2009 Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Quebec Posts: 566	WOW !! thats is very nice!!!!!!! WHat is the material over the roadkill ? __________________ Interior:ALL red, black roof Exterior:RTX scorpion painted GOLD, side and rear visor, oem spoiler, MI mesh grill, Hella supertone horn, RS badge, Vios badge, CF pillar, Led mirror cover, fog light HID 3000k, Projector retrofit HID 8000K Performance :MI CrankPulley, Tein springs, UR and TRD bar, TURBO IN PROGRESS Audio : Pionner DEH-80PRS, HAT L1V2, PowerBass 1100.5X 5 channel amp

05-01-2012, 10:56 AM	#27
sqcomp Roadrunner Jr. View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris S Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Back at home Posts: 2,609	That is ensolite foam. Personally, after trying Ensolite, Dynaliner, and Overkill...overkill puts them all to shame in it's performance. How's that for an opinion? :) __________________ “To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine

04-29-2012, 05:16 PM	#20
09sedan Drives: 2009 yaris sedan Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: toronto Posts: 141	I see, i was quoted 220$ by a performance alternator builder that was posted on this site for me to send my factory alternator rebuilt to output 160 amps, if i go 0gauge it will leave me with room to expand if i decided to... Hmm.. I think i know what to do now :)

05-01-2012, 07:13 PM	#32
_S7V7N_ Drives: Yaris 4 Door Sedan Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: South Texas Posts: 805	I know yours has to be a snug fit cause I used a good 4 gauge and it fit in there tight. I could imagine how 0 gauge must be. I feel comfortable running up to 150 amps on my 4 gauge just because the run is only like 3 feet. I don't know why you'd wanna run that wire and put the fuse on the engine cover. I can understand wanting to show off that beefy wire but I wouldn't feel comfortable with all the vibration hitting that fuse constantly while the cars on. __________________ Audio is under Construction Kenwood KDC-X794 Hifonics Zeus ZXI6.5C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component Speaker System - AUTOTEK ATX65CX 6.5-Inch Hifonics BXi 1210D - Crunch PowerZone P1400.4 (2)12 inch Kicker CVR's - 0 gauge from battery to Distribution block - 4 Gauge Power/Grounds to amps - Duralast Yellow Top - Big 3

05-01-2012, 10:22 PM	#33
CharlieBravo Drives: 2007 Yaris HB Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Florida Posts: 39	OEM run is still there. Fuse holder is zip tied to the cover. Its been 3 months and everything is still holding. Oh yeah, this was my first time attempting the Big 3. I do appreciate any and all comments though!

05-01-2012, 11:22 PM	#34
_S7V7N_ Drives: Yaris 4 Door Sedan Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: South Texas Posts: 805	The fuse is secured but what happens if your wire comes out to the left of your fuse ? That wire is not secured. Unless you are 100 % sure that screw will never loosen with all that vibration i'd try to find a way to secure it better. What you really worry about is a front end collision as long as your car shuts off you're fine but if it keeps running and that wire is knocked loose. Instant fire. __________________ Audio is under Construction Kenwood KDC-X794 Hifonics Zeus ZXI6.5C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component Speaker System - AUTOTEK ATX65CX 6.5-Inch Hifonics BXi 1210D - Crunch PowerZone P1400.4 (2)12 inch Kicker CVR's - 0 gauge from battery to Distribution block - 4 Gauge Power/Grounds to amps - Duralast Yellow Top - Big 3

05-02-2012, 11:19 PM	#35
CharlieBravo Drives: 2007 Yaris HB Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Florida Posts: 39	Valid concern. I'll see what I can do this weekend.

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