Quick Turbo Question

[Ryze268]

Originally Posted by KTS

1) yes you can but do it neat if you decide to as any tape that blocks a passage can be the end of a turbo or even the engine. There is a liquid thread seal that can be purchased that works good and will avoid blockages. Those couplings/fittings are designed to prevent leaks.
2) I have no idea wish I had a turbo vitz to tell you. You wud need at least a 2 bar map sensor (1 bar vacuum and 1 bar boost) wired to your management of choice and the clip the MAF sensor voltage at atmospheric pressure.
3) Use the same oil you usually use. Turbos are designed to be used with a wide variety of oils. What is more important is using the correct oil restrictor for your turbo. Too much or too little oil pressure to a turbo is what destroys the turbo. Your turbo looks like a chine turbo therefore you should prime the oil system before starting ( unplug all coils and injectors) and tumble the car with the oil return disconnected. Then start the car only when oil drains from the oil return line. This will ensure that the turbo is receiving oil. When I had a chine T2860 turbo I had a radiator repair place weld close the oil supply banjo bolt and then I re-drilled a smaller hole to limit oil pressure to the turbo. Garrett website indicates the oil restrictor size for journal and ball bearing turbos. Or contact the turbo supplier and ask them if a restrictor is needed then ask them again lol.
Sorry I think I got carried away. I just miss having a turbo charged car and remembering all the little projects I had to do.

Thanks much, I'm using a t25 banjo feed kit so I'm hoping it already has the required oil restriction

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Ryze268

Thanks much, I'm using a t25 banjo feed kit so I'm hoping it already has the required oil restriction

Most of the banjo feed kits do have built in restrictors, but they typically are offered in separate choices of 1.5mm for journal bearings and 1.0mm for ball bearings.

[Ryze268]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Most of the banjo feed kits do have built in restrictors, but they typically are offered in separate choices of 1.5mm for journal bearings and 1.0mm for ball bearings.

Do you think I'm safe with mine? another question, what's wrong with running the return line to the oil pan?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Ryze268

Do you think I'm safe with mine? another question, what's wrong with running the return line to the oil pan?

Just check the size of the hole in it. If it is too large then you maintain pressure through the turbo, which can cause oil seepage through the bearing and hence smoke out the exhaust. The return oil line can also cause the same problem if the oil exiting meets resistance (like pumping up through a puddle of oil). That and frothing of the oil are why you want the return above the level of the oil in the pan.

[cali yaris]

Mine backed up and smoked with the restrictor. Ran perfectly without it. Depends on your set up I think.

[Ryze268]

Thanks Garm, I'll try it will just the banjo fitting. I'm using -8 AN for the return, since my turbo will be above the engine I'm hoping that gravity will be on my side.

This is the fitting:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-Fe...03d73e&vxp=mtr

I made it to work tonight (there's where I'm writing this from lol).

Since the car runs fine with the bypass harness connected, does that mean I wired it correctly?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Ryze268

Since the car runs fine with the bypass harness connected, does that mean I wired it correctly?

The bypass connector just jumps the intercepted wires together. It basically verifies that your in and out pairs are correct for any of the intercepted wires.

[Ryze268]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The bypass connector just jumps the intercepted wires together. It basically verifies that your in and out pairs are correct for any of the intercepted wires.

Awww so that means I'm not in the clear yet huh?

[Ryze268]

Connected the F/IC today with the AEM supplied base map, at first the car wouldn't start then when it did, it struggled to idle and would not rev past 3000rpm.

Am I missing something?

[kou]

Is this the first start up? Is your car still stock? If it is you should have all zeros in all the maps so that it doesn't make any changes to the factory tune.

[Ryze268]

Originally Posted by kou

Is this the first start up? Is your car still stock? If it is you should have all zeros in all the maps so that it doesn't make any changes to the factory tune.

Yes, still stock except 1ZZ injectors, all the maps are zero'd

[CTScott]

Also, make sure on the AEM software that you go into "Setup" "System" and set the injector response time to 810 us.

[kou]

You should go to injector size change put in original size then change to 1zz. I think stock is 200cc and 1zz is 250cc if I remember correctly.

[kou]

I will look at my old maps to make sure.

[Ryze268]

I read this forum post

Actually, it's a common problem that FIC users have if the unit is not setup properly. If your cam/crank sensor signal & grounds are not 100% and are noisy, it will cause the FIC to pick up a bad signal at higher RPM. Your symptoms will be difficulty revving past 3500-4500rpm and it's a common issue. The easy fix is to install a 2.2K(just a baseline, you might have to go higher or lower) ohm resistor parallel to the cam and crank sensor inputs and tie them into their respective grounds with the resistors. The good test for this is to run the engine NA (just undo the intercooler piping so the turbo can't build boost), and free rev the engine. It should go up to the 6500rpm stock redline no problem with just the stock ECU connected. If you hook up the AEM and do the same, but it cuts at 3000-4500rpm range, then you have the common faulty ground. Make sure all of the settings in the tuning cells are all set to 0 while you perform this test(this ensures that the FIC is not screwing with the signals).

Read more: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/perf...#ixzz3IyAIgzbE

Do you think that has anything to do with it? When ground these connections, do I have to do it to the ECU or can i ground them somewhere else?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Ryze268

I read this forum post



Do you think that has anything to do with it? When ground these connections, do I have to do it to the ECU or can i ground them somewhere else?

The resistors are not a bad idea to add. As long as you tie the other end of the resistor to a good ground it doesn't matter where you do so.

[Ryze268]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The resistors are not a bad idea to add. As long as you tie the other end of the resistor to a good ground it doesn't matter where you do so.

Would the best ground be straight to the negative terminal of thee battery?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Ryze268

Would the best ground be straight to the negative terminal of thee battery?

Yes, but that is not necessary. Any ground bolt or ground wire is sufficient.