Thinking about making a full Intake Manifold Replacement

[turboyaris]

result for me was 182 whp and 184 ft lbs of torque original numbers on the base tune with the emanage was around 174 and 172 so yea it got 10 hp from the base tune to the final tune not to mention how crappy the car would run without the emanage. The regular emanage is only around 300$ so I don't see how it is expensive. Kenny also said that he was able to lean out the stock tune and the off boost tune, because the stock tune is fairly rich with the timing more towards fuel efficiency.

[spkrman]

Originally Posted by ChinoCharles

Haha, I'm just messing with you. I'd never write a song that bad... I don't think.

doooooooooo it!

[Vic-2NZFE]

Originally Posted by turboyaris

result for me was 182 whp and 184 ft lbs of torque original numbers on the base tune with the emanage was around 174 and 172 so yea it got 10 hp from the base tune to the final tune not to mention how crappy the car would run without the emanage. The regular emanage is only around 300$ so I don't see how it is expensive. Kenny also said that he was able to lean out the stock tune and the off boost tune, because the stock tune is fairly rich with the timing more towards fuel efficiency.

Good numbers dude, i forgot to mention that the guy that started this thread is NA and not turbo and there the Y of my responce. I guess ill need to be more detailed when posting

regular emanage is only around 300$
Where did you get it so low??
lowest price i've seen is @ least $400.00 without shipping, $300.00 not a bad price

[turboyaris]

I feel that you have no experience with standalones & your statement will cause confusion. ANY standalone (AEM EMS, Motec, Haltech) will be 1000 times better than ANY piggy back. I guarantee you that you can get more power with a stanalone. And as for standalone being to much $ for just a turbo kit, when do you feel you should go with a standalone?

let me clarify then, so as not to mislead people. The majority of people on this forum have an NA and will always have an NA setup, even those that go turbo will more then likely stop at the 8-12 psi level. That being said if you have a stock engine with a turbo on it I don't see you getting much out of a stand alone system, certainly not for the amount of money and work to buy it install it and have it tuned. Yea sure they are 1000 times better but only when engine parameters change. I feel a standalone would be needed on a fully built engine, with adjustable boost levels, longer duration cams, bigger valves, these kind of components. If you look at a lot of the tuner cars, you tell me how many of those cars go stand alone. Very few, because of all the work associated with the setup. The majority of the other tuner cars like SRT4, evo, sti all of them go to a reflash or piggyback system.

[ChinoCharles]

Originally Posted by turboyaris

let me clarify then, so as not to mislead people. The majority of people on this forum have an NA and will always have an NA setup, even those that go turbo will more then likely stop at the 8-12 psi level. That being said if you have a stock engine with a turbo on it I don't see you getting much out of a stand alone system, certainly not for the amount of money and work to buy it install it and have it tuned. Yea sure they are 1000 times better but only when engine parameters change. I feel a standalone would be needed on a fully built engine, with adjustable boost levels, longer duration cams, bigger valves, these kind of components. If you look at a lot of the tuner cars, you tell me how many of those cars go stand alone. Very few, because of all the work associated with the setup. The majority of the other tuner cars like SRT4, evo, sti all of them go to a reflash or piggyback system.

Yep.

[turboyaris]

the main reason to switch to a standalone is when you start using sensors that the factory ecu can't handle. i.e. vein pressure instead of the normal MAF or MAP sensors and other situations like that. Until you have a fully built race car I would say your thousands of dollars would be better spent elsewhere.

[cali yaris]

A piggyback system modify existing parameters that are in a ECU. It has limits, On a scale of 1-100 you can only adjust from 35-65. A stand alone allows the user to start from scratch. You can adjust from 1-100. You have full control of fuel & timing. You are not modifing an existing parameter.

I feel a standalone would be needed on a fully built engine, with adjustable boost levels, longer duration cams, bigger valves, these kind of components.

Pistons, rods, adjustable boost levels, bigger valve are not the reasons to go standalone. Full adjustability, safer, more reliable, faster processiing speed, On board data logging, knock control & it makes more power.

If you look at a lot of the tuner cars, you tell me how many of those cars go stand alone.

These are good points.
I have a custom-wired MoTec in my fully-built Scion tC. I did that because the piggybacks didn't give me enough control, as noted above. Last tune netted me 443 whp, 474 torque -- not bad from a 2.4L street car. And more room to go even hotter.

But.... it was friggin' EXPENSIVE to do all that!!

I will never go that far with my Yaris motor....but I hope some people do.