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Old 06-21-2007, 01:47 AM   #19
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Old 06-21-2007, 01:58 AM   #20
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nice
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:46 AM   #21
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mmm where is the post of the buy group ?
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Old 06-21-2007, 02:19 PM   #22
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Got the cylinder this morning and installed in about 2 minutes at break. Works great...at about half way up the hood will hold itself, 3/4 of the way it will raise itself, below half way hood will drop and latch itself so you don't have to slam the hood. Most time consuming part was removing the bar code sticker from the cylinder.

Will try to post completed pic's tonight. I'm happy!!!!
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Old 06-21-2007, 09:27 PM   #23
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it make me want make my own kit too lol
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Old 06-21-2007, 11:03 PM   #24
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finally got pic's just before the downpour.

Pic 1 hood all the way up
Pic 2 neutral position
Pic's 3-5 cylinder views
Sorry about the dirty engine

Some may feel the 30# cylinder is a little weak if they want the hood to rise more on it's own, so 40# would be better with these brackets. The ball studs both require 5/16" mounting holes in the brackets, 5/16-18 nuts, and optional star lock washers. Both the holes in the brackets for the mounting bolts are 10 mm or about .40" in diameter. The stud hole in the lower bracket is about 6" from the bend, and the mounting hole is 1.5" from the bend.

Would like to get more detailed but may not have time till next week. Actually all the info is in this thread but pretty disjointed...PM me if more info is needed, or can put togeather a more complete post with finished brackets (not the prototypes shown here) if interested.

The brackets were only painted aluminum for these pic's....be creative aluminum or stainless can be polished, powder coated or painted. Costs were...$17+ for cylinder and attachments, shipping from MSC estimated at $5 (haven't received the bill at work),scrap steel used for brackets, and 2 nuts w/4 star lockwashers. No drilling was done on the car and existing Yarii bolts were used for mounting. Good luck
Attached Images
File Type: jpg frhl1.JPG (96.4 KB, 79 views)
File Type: jpg frhl2.JPG (96.8 KB, 80 views)
File Type: jpg l1.JPG (67.7 KB, 78 views)
File Type: jpg l2.JPG (75.4 KB, 79 views)
File Type: jpg l3.JPG (82.2 KB, 79 views)
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Old 06-21-2007, 11:44 PM   #25
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Looks pretty good
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Old 06-22-2007, 12:11 AM   #26
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I think it's great!

The 30# cylinder is probably quite satisfactory; it supports the hood at 50% and 100%, and makes for an gentle close without having to slam the hood.
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Old 06-22-2007, 12:29 AM   #27
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nice!! and... the halfway position is GREAT for car shows. c'mon send me one... !!

plus.....then I can re-locate my battery to the trunk more easily. yeah!
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Old 06-22-2007, 12:31 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
nice!! and... the halfway position is GREAT for car shows. c'mon send me one... !!

plus.....then I can re-locate my battery to the trunk more easily. yeah!
I'm curious as to why you want to relocate the battery to the trunk
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Old 06-22-2007, 12:46 AM   #29
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Very cool
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Old 06-22-2007, 12:51 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimona54 View Post
I think it's great!

The 30# cylinder is probably quite satisfactory; it supports the hood at 50% and 100%, and makes for an gentle close without having to slam the hood.
I'm happy with the 30# cylinder, and it holds well when all the way up (which is the important goal)....just wanted to make sure that everyone knew that the 40# would also work fine, just a little stiffer, but the 20# is probably a no-go. All related to where I positioned my brackets of course...and there is no cost difference between the cylinders (by #'s force anyway). Also the polished stainless cylinders are available from MSC for $40-$50......other resources for cylinders on line are McMaster Carr and Graingers, plus probably many more.
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Old 06-23-2007, 12:55 AM   #31
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Made a lower bracket out of 1/8" material tonight and it is too weak....It needs to be 1/4" x 1" like the prototype, which is a bear for the do-it-yourselfer to do. I made the prototype in a large shop vise using a BFHammer, other ways would be heating at the bend with a torch, or using a press brake if available. Just letting you know!
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Old 06-23-2007, 12:53 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LucaItalia83 View Post
mmm where is the post of the buy group ?
Not sure. ...I may have missed a few of the last posts on that thread. But can't believe a group buy couldn't be set up by anyone....just whoever sets it up would have to insure they have no ties with the supplier or in business for themselves. I'm assuming the forums rules try to insure sales threads are kept in classifieds or supporting vendor categories...hope I'm not too far off base in assuming this.
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Old 06-23-2007, 12:56 PM   #33
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that is what happened... I goofed and got shut down :(
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Old 06-23-2007, 01:00 PM   #34
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I'm curious as to why you want to relocate the battery to the trunk
so you can gut the spare and rear seats, move the battery to the back for better weight distubtion
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Old 06-23-2007, 08:53 PM   #35
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Woo, lets get rear ended, then let the acid leak into the gas tank!

Kaboom anyone?
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Old 06-23-2007, 10:06 PM   #36
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that would need a very very veeery unfortunate, unlucky, and improbable sequence of events to puncture both the battery and the tank and have the liquids mix!!
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