Electrical Problems PS,A/C,RADIO,SPEEDOMETER,SIGNALS,AIR BAG LIGHT ON, ALTERNATOR - Page 3 - Toyota Yaris Forums

HighMilesForLife · 12-22-2012, 11:25 AM

Correct, I popped the 120A fusible link for the alternator. before I figured out how to get the plastic cover off, I went to the Yota dealer with a different car and spent 30 mins not being able to find the correct part # to order, and no one knew what I was reffering to even with a pic. Not sure how theyd never seen this happen before. So, I bent the link back together with a screwdriver, its pretty strong metal so everything works in the car now. Those fusible links do not look removable to me....
So my questions are now, does anyone have the exact part # for the 120A fusible link on a 2008 Yaris? And also.. how the hell does that thing come out? It looks more sensible to just solder it and leave it alone, and making sure the battery is all unhooked before I start working on things in there. Is soldering a bad idea? It's already touching, so a proper solder job should not allow for over-amperage. Thanks again guys.

CTScott · 12-22-2012, 05:49 PM

They are not replaceable individually. You have to remove that section of the positive battery terminal to replace it.

The part is called the "block assembly, fusible link" and the part number is: 82620-52050
It is about $12.

HighMilesForLife · 12-23-2012, 01:52 PM

Okay, if the parts department in Albany does not figure that out at least I will have exact information to give them now. 12 bucks for that whole piece is decent. Thanks!!

CTScott · 05-11-2013, 02:18 PM

If you look up into the wire entry end of the black connector, does it look good there? Also, how about up into where the black connector plugs into?

Another thing to check is on the face of the under dash fuse panel there is a very large black wire that plugs into a large one pin connector on the fuse panel. Check him and also take a voltage measurement on him.

bruceisthecat · 04-19-2016, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brg88tx

lemme guess, your electrical problems started right after you replaced your failed water pump....riiiiight.

I just did that and now is happening to me, can't you help?

rmshort · 05-25-2020, 06:31 PM

I've been having major issues with my Yaris over the past few days, tried everything I could think of to get her back to a state of reliability. It started the other day when she stalled on me, so I replaced the battery, and then she continued to stall shortly after starting up again and again. The next day she started right up with a bit of starter fluid(through the MAF sensor port, MAF plugged in, resting in the crevice between the battery and airbox), which lead me to believe it was fuel related. Checked fuel pressure, and it was on par. Then when I hooked the fuel line back up, she started and ran again. I tried to get in and take her for a ride, only to find I could barely turn the wheel in P, and even more difficulty in D. Today I woke up and decided to go get new battery terminals. Hooked them up to the new battery and jump-started, after that no problems. It's been a very confusing few days, I can only hope she's done being difficult for a while.

Oilhoots · 04-17-2021, 04:54 AM

Im having similar issues with my car as well but from all CCT has been saying I'm guessing it's some kind of power issue some where along the wire or connections so a full inspection of it should lead me to the problem

12-22-2012, 05:49 PM	#38
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,450	They are not replaceable individually. You have to remove that section of the positive battery terminal to replace it. The part is called the "block assembly, fusible link" and the part number is: 82620-52050 It is about $12. __________________

05-11-2013, 02:18 PM	#40
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,450	If you look up into the wire entry end of the black connector, does it look good there? Also, how about up into where the black connector plugs into? Another thing to check is on the face of the under dash fuse panel there is a very large black wire that plugs into a large one pin connector on the fuse panel. Check him and also take a voltage measurement on him. __________________

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12-22-2012, 11:25 AM	#37
HighMilesForLife Drives: 2008 Black Yaris sedan Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Upstate NY Posts: 3	Correct, I popped the 120A fusible link for the alternator. before I figured out how to get the plastic cover off, I went to the Yota dealer with a different car and spent 30 mins not being able to find the correct part # to order, and no one knew what I was reffering to even with a pic. Not sure how theyd never seen this happen before. So, I bent the link back together with a screwdriver, its pretty strong metal so everything works in the car now. Those fusible links do not look removable to me.... So my questions are now, does anyone have the exact part # for the 120A fusible link on a 2008 Yaris? And also.. how the hell does that thing come out? It looks more sensible to just solder it and leave it alone, and making sure the battery is all unhooked before I start working on things in there. Is soldering a bad idea? It's already touching, so a proper solder job should not allow for over-amperage. Thanks again guys.

12-23-2012, 01:52 PM	#39
HighMilesForLife Drives: 2008 Black Yaris sedan Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Upstate NY Posts: 3	Okay, if the parts department in Albany does not figure that out at least I will have exact information to give them now. 12 bucks for that whole piece is decent. Thanks!!

05-25-2020, 06:31 PM	#42
rmshort Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3dr Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: Amarillo, Texas Posts: 23	I've been having major issues with my Yaris over the past few days, tried everything I could think of to get her back to a state of reliability. It started the other day when she stalled on me, so I replaced the battery, and then she continued to stall shortly after starting up again and again. The next day she started right up with a bit of starter fluid(through the MAF sensor port, MAF plugged in, resting in the crevice between the battery and airbox), which lead me to believe it was fuel related. Checked fuel pressure, and it was on par. Then when I hooked the fuel line back up, she started and ran again. I tried to get in and take her for a ride, only to find I could barely turn the wheel in P, and even more difficulty in D. Today I woke up and decided to go get new battery terminals. Hooked them up to the new battery and jump-started, after that no problems. It's been a very confusing few days, I can only hope she's done being difficult for a while.

04-17-2021, 04:54 AM	#43
Oilhoots I've made a post! Drives: Yaris Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Regina Posts: 1	Im having similar issues with my car as well but from all CCT has been saying I'm guessing it's some kind of power issue some where along the wire or connections so a full inspection of it should lead me to the problem