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#1 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 yaris sedan Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: toronto
Posts: 141
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Big 3 question
Do i have to put a inline fuse for the 0 gauge run from the alternator to the battery? ( if so how big should it be?)
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#2 |
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Roadrunner Jr.
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Plan the fuse holder in a smart area. The argument is that you have a hot wire coming off the positive of the battery...which is true. If it grounds you'd want to fuse the hot wire.
That being said, think about it...Why are you going to put a fuse on it? In case the wire comes out or you get into a wreck. The first necessitates a smack to the back of the head if you can't secure a wire in the vehicle correctly. The second necessitates a big scratch of the head. Why? Because if you indeed crunch up the engine compartment that fuse better be VERY close to the battery positive to really work as it is intended. Don't leave much if any wire lead before the fuse off the positive for it to potentially catch on metal. "There are 2 connections which must be intact or upgraded when adding any components that draw significant amounts of current. The first is the short ground wire which connects the negative battery terminal to the vehicle's chassis. The other connection is the braided ground strap that connects the engine block to the chassis." -BCAE1 "Realize that the "absolute ground" of the electrical system is not the battery negative terminal or the vehicle chassis, but is the case of the alternator itself. This is why perhaps the most important cable among the Big 3 is the engine ground strap, as this is what connects the alternator ground to the vehicle's chassis." - the12Volt.com
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“To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine |
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#3 |
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Roadrunner Jr.
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Never replace the OEM run. Just add.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Why don't I have mine fused? Because I'm a disagreeable cus who has actually tied the wire more securely after these pics were taken. If the wreck I get into is big enough to dislodge the tie and the connection from the battery, I've got much bigger issues than a fuse which would most likely be disintegrated anyway.
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“To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine |
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#4 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 yaris sedan Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: toronto
Posts: 141
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ok, well if i can run it , ill just secure the power wire along the firewall somewhere, away from the front of the car, as for the engine block to chassis ground, where is it located ,any pics? i will be ordering the wire from knukonceptz either tonight or tommorow, along with ring terminals.. i dont think i need to replace the battery terminals?
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#5 |
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Okay if you decide to use a fuse you want it about 6-8 inches from your battery anything outside of that is useless. If you got into a wreck and your engine compartment was compromised you'd want your fuse to be as close to your battery as possible. If you're going to put that fuse further it's useless due to the fact if the wire grounds anywhere outside of the circled area it will cause a short and a fire.
Sq can you please show the picture of how you grounded your alternator ?
__________________
![]() ![]() Audio is under Construction Kenwood KDC-X794 Hifonics Zeus ZXI6.5C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component Speaker System - AUTOTEK ATX65CX 6.5-Inch Hifonics BXi 1210D - Crunch PowerZone P1400.4 (2)12 inch Kicker CVR's - 0 gauge from battery to Distribution block - 4 Gauge Power/Grounds to amps - Duralast Yellow Top - Big 3 |
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#6 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 yaris sedan Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: toronto
Posts: 141
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Quote:
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#7 |
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You are going to have a 90 amp fuse on your alt to battery run and some people fuse the wire for the amperage it can support and run a fused distro block in the trunk or do it the way you're saying with a 90 amp fuse.
__________________
![]() ![]() Audio is under Construction Kenwood KDC-X794 Hifonics Zeus ZXI6.5C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component Speaker System - AUTOTEK ATX65CX 6.5-Inch Hifonics BXi 1210D - Crunch PowerZone P1400.4 (2)12 inch Kicker CVR's - 0 gauge from battery to Distribution block - 4 Gauge Power/Grounds to amps - Duralast Yellow Top - Big 3 |
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#8 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 yaris sedan Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: toronto
Posts: 141
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Quote:
Ok, ill check my current 4 gauge tommorow and see what brand it is and what kind of fuse it has, ill probably just do a 100 amp fuse on alt-battery wire and put a distro block in the trunk. Hopefully ill be ordering my 0 gauge on sunday as well, i can use ring terminals(crimp type, but i will solder as well) on the stock battery terminals correct? |
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#9 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Yaris Sedan 2009 Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Quebec
Posts: 566
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SQ!! Where did you bought the red thing around you cable ?:D
__________________
Interior:ALL red, black roof Exterior:RTX scorpion painted GOLD, side and rear visor, oem spoiler, MI mesh grill, Hella supertone horn, RS badge, Vios badge, CF pillar, Led mirror cover, fog light HID 3000k, Projector retrofit HID 8000K Performance :MI CrankPulley, Tein springs, UR and TRD bar, TURBO IN PROGRESS Audio : Pionner DEH-80PRS, HAT L1V2, PowerBass 1100.5X 5 channel amp
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#10 |
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Roadrunner Jr.
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Tolm,
Why the fuse placement on the other side of the engine bay? @packetrace - you mean the heat shrink? :) Alty ground: ![]() ![]() ^and yes, it is grounded properly. I used a brush attachment on a drill to scrape the paint away from the body.
__________________
“To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine |
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#11 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 yaris sedan Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: toronto
Posts: 141
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would this suffice as a engine - chassis ground?
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#12 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Yaris Sedan 2009 Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Quebec
Posts: 566
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Quote:
__________________
Interior:ALL red, black roof Exterior:RTX scorpion painted GOLD, side and rear visor, oem spoiler, MI mesh grill, Hella supertone horn, RS badge, Vios badge, CF pillar, Led mirror cover, fog light HID 3000k, Projector retrofit HID 8000K Performance :MI CrankPulley, Tein springs, UR and TRD bar, TURBO IN PROGRESS Audio : Pionner DEH-80PRS, HAT L1V2, PowerBass 1100.5X 5 channel amp
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#13 |
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Lol @ Sq I thought his battery was on the opposite side of his car ! That thing is like 4 feet from the battery. I thought at the most 12 inches from the battery for any fuse is the max ?
__________________
![]() ![]() Audio is under Construction Kenwood KDC-X794 Hifonics Zeus ZXI6.5C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component Speaker System - AUTOTEK ATX65CX 6.5-Inch Hifonics BXi 1210D - Crunch PowerZone P1400.4 (2)12 inch Kicker CVR's - 0 gauge from battery to Distribution block - 4 Gauge Power/Grounds to amps - Duralast Yellow Top - Big 3 |
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#14 |
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Roadrunner Jr.
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Tolm,
I just didn't see a fuse near the battery, that's why I asked. @ 09 - that point would not serve as a good engine to chassis since it's not actually a connection ON the engine block. Take a look under the engine...hint hint.
__________________
“To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine |
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#15 |
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Tolm that fuse is too far from the battery. If that wire were ever to come out of that holder it would be flopping around and has the potential to ground off and cause a short. If you look at the two red lines l Right of circle l you have about 3 feet of wire that can get punctured that the fuse will not protect.
Pretty much all of the wire to the right of the circled area is not protected (fused)
__________________
![]() ![]() Audio is under Construction Kenwood KDC-X794 Hifonics Zeus ZXI6.5C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component Speaker System - AUTOTEK ATX65CX 6.5-Inch Hifonics BXi 1210D - Crunch PowerZone P1400.4 (2)12 inch Kicker CVR's - 0 gauge from battery to Distribution block - 4 Gauge Power/Grounds to amps - Duralast Yellow Top - Big 3 |
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#16 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 yaris sedan Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: toronto
Posts: 141
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ok after inspecting the current amp kit i have, i decided to scratch a part of the exposed strands to see if its pure copper or CCA, it seems to me that it looks like CCA, here is the amp kit i believe i have
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...y-Scosche.html |
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#17 |
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Roadrunner Jr.
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You'll be fine with the CCA. You've already purchased it and it will work.
What I did for my big 3 was to go to the owner of the shop and ask if I could root through his scrap wire bin. I found some good stuff in there. With all the wire, techflex, terminals and heat shrink...it only cost me $13 to make it all myself. On the thought of the fusing, one could make a point to say you'd need TWO fuses. One after the alty positive and one at the battery positive. At some point that wire is going to be live. This is another reason why I simply secured my wire along the OEM routing. If it wants to come undone...it'll be in a serious, if not fatal, wreck. At that point I have other things I need to worry about as any fusing will have been completely obliterated.
__________________
“To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine |
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#18 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 yaris sedan Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: toronto
Posts: 141
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Quote:
that amp kit i have contains a 50 amp fuse, im a bit sketchy as to why it only has a 50 amp fuse if its rated for "1000 watts" , with my 4 channel im looking at 90 amps ( 30A from mono amp, 60A from 4chan amp), i can easily swap out the 50 amp fuse for a 100 amp?, instead of running 0 gauge, can i run 4 gauge? (knukonceptz). ( smaller and easier to route behind the engine), if thats the case then all i need is a few more feet of 4 gauge and a distribution bock in the trunk..) the engine heat doesnt affect the exterior coating? edit: was doing some research for the past few hours ,reading up on gauge sizes and amperage capabilities. http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm from what i understand i can easily swap out the 50amp fuse near my battery and put in a 100 amp ANL fuse, and then run new Knu.K 4 gauge for my big 3, and throw in a fused distribution block with 1 4 gauge in and 2 4 gauge out for my amps( with matching fuse ratings for each amp), im pretty sure i understand this now right? :| Last edited by 09sedan; 04-29-2012 at 03:32 PM. |
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