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01-10-2013, 06:00 AM | #37 | |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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01-10-2013, 02:37 PM | #38 |
Drives: 06 Polar White 5dr, 13 Soul 4u Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Georgetown, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,762
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Corrosion within the voltage regulator.
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01-10-2013, 05:09 PM | #39 |
Drives: 2020 Corolla Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 549
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Yes .. I hope that my Yaris goes for many more km, or miles (whichever is more ... )
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01-11-2013, 03:19 AM | #40 |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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01-12-2013, 04:25 PM | #41 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Vitz Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Kingston, Jamaica
Posts: 4
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Hi all,
I have a 2sz-fe engine its 1.3L and I'm doing some shopping around. I saw a battery that had a "26r" would this be compatible with my 2007 vitz? |
01-13-2013, 01:26 PM | #42 |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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I have a 2007 1.5L with a '26r' in it. My OEM battery lasted 138,111 miles and I replaced that with a '26r' and replaced that '26r' after exactly 3 years and 86,858 miles (oops, I put 87k + on a couple of other posts) with another '26r'. I have almost 9k miles and about 4 months on the new/second '26r'. Both '26r' batteries were inexpensive (see post 7 on this thread for details).
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03-22-2013, 12:56 PM | #43 |
Drives: 2017 L 3-door Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Milwaukee, Wi
Posts: 161
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Just replaced original oem battery this weekend. '07 with just under 83k miles on it. Car was still starting, but under duress; battery test revealed 233 cca's. Went to menards, got 30 month free replacement group 35 battery for like $70. Batteries plus wanted $100 for their "cheap" and Fleet Farm said they didn't even have a battery for the yaris.
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03-22-2013, 05:13 PM | #44 |
I think my battery has 4 years and 80K on it from Wal-Mart, so I just bought an 11lb Braille from MI and will see what happens. My current battery is causing some rough starts and static in the radio I believe...time for a change before click, click click one morning or hot afternoon. This is a great discussion.
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03-22-2013, 08:24 PM | #45 | |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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03-22-2013, 08:34 PM | #46 |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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Good to know that someone else has had this symptom. I had it (in the last stage of use) with both my OEM, and the battery after that. I tried to squeeze too much life out of my OEM, and probably the next as well (intervals already mentioned earlier on this thread).
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03-24-2013, 09:14 PM | #47 |
Question...put the voltmeter on my battery and it had 12.8 volts which I have read is really a good state to be in. Can a battery be "winding down" and still have that level of voltage? I am tending to think it wasn't as in bad shape as I thought.
I did buy a battery tender for it when I put in the racing battery in case that racing battery doesn't have the gusto it needs. |
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03-24-2013, 09:16 PM | #48 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
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03-24-2013, 09:18 PM | #49 |
Ok, so what should happen when the battery is good and cranking the starter...what happens when bad?
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03-24-2013, 09:33 PM | #50 |
Ok, just put my voltmeter on both our Yaris and Honda CRV and when cranking the system, the volts dropped from 12.8 to about 10.5 for the Honda and 11.5 for the Yaris, then they hovered at about 14.6 each during idle. I would say they are both starting to wane since I learned that they should not drop hardly below 12 volts when trying to start the car and the CRV is worse and may be set for a replacement soon?
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03-24-2013, 10:51 PM | #51 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
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05-15-2013, 09:29 PM | #52 |
Drives: 07 Hatch Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: RTP, NC
Posts: 2
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I see that a number of people have the 26R battery size installed. I tried one of those (Everlast, I believe), but found it too low. The original battery is 7.75" high, the 26R measured 7". The battery bracket would not even touch the battery. I realize one could improvise and install a spacer. However, is there no exact fit available as replacement?
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05-15-2013, 10:07 PM | #53 | |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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Quote:
YMMV, as (based on some Gen 2 hatch owners having no clamp issues) I'm assuming there must have been some variation in the clamps used for different manufacture date ranges. A few weeks ago, I was listening to the radio in my car, but also engrossed in a phone conversation. After the phone conversation, my car wouldn't start. I called AAA. Besides getting me started, the driver also tested the battery, asked me some questions, and then said the battery should be replaced, so make sure you clean it up a bit before you go to Wal-Mart so that they won't try to claim you didn't take care of the battery and try to weasel out of the guarantee. Once I do that, I'll live with the free replacement until late this year or early/mid next year and then I'll figure out how to remedy the clamp situation and get the same 35 series NAPA battery that CTScott has in at least one of his Yarii. |
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06-24-2013, 01:28 PM | #54 |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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^^^^^ Update from previous post. Finally wiped down the battery and took the car in to Wal-Mart. The car sometimes hestitates slightly before turning over, but has started every time since the AAA call on April 25th. On that call, the test the driver performed (per the printout he gave me) showed the battery results (under load) to be 11.41 volts, 49 cold cranking amps (rated at 550) and temperature 78 degrees. Then it says charge ____ retest and the word there in the middle (___) has faded so much it is illegible.
Below the battery results on the 4-25-13 printout, the next section reads 'starter test' , then reads 'batt. voltage too low' and lists the voltage as 9.430 and the amps as 129.84 . Below the 'starter test' on this printout, the final section reads 'charging system test' and then 'no problems' and then reads 'no load' 14.000 and 'loaded' 13.620 . That driver cleaned off quite a bit of built up corrosion and then sprayed the battery with the kind of anti-corrosion spray that one can buy at an auto parts store. Fast forward to now. I had the battery tested at Wal Mart and they said it is fine. They said in is registering the full CCA measurement that it should and I asked hat the voltage reading was and they said 12.7 (I didn't ask if that was under load or not). As I was getting back in the car, one of the techs said I shouls get some of the anti corrosive spray and use it and another tech couldn't find a stray can of spray to use then, but grapped a wire brush to remove the slight bit of corrosion that had built up. Given the above, should I believe that the battery is good, or should I go to AutoZone and see if they'll test it for me and then go back to a different Wal-Mart if necessary? The battery is the Wal-Mart one with the 1 year replacement warranty (new September 2012) code 26R. The receipt shows 26R-5S . |
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