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08-12-2010, 02:47 PM | #73 |
1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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When I hooked up the E-Manage blue I tapped into the 4 injectors and the common sensor ground wire. The power for the injectors should be coming from the EFI relay and fuse.
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08-16-2010, 08:22 PM | #74 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Got the FIC wired up today. I wired up the obvious power and grounds, along with injectors, tps sensor, and maf. Everything worked fine until I wired in the maf wires... The engine just kind of chugs and doesn't start. Interestingly, when I put the jumper harness in to bypass the FIC,it starts but I have a CEL. However, I think it has something to do with the TB as this literally just happened on friday when i disconnected the positive terminal of the battery for a prolonged time. It went away a few hours later.
Anyways, I'll be getting my 2.25" catback exhaust with a flowmaster super 44 tomorrow. I need to pick up some steel lines and adapters for oil return and feed. Also will be calling the tuner to talk a little more and setup an appointment. Otherwise, I plan to begin the install wednesday and hope to have it done within 3 days time. Again, expect LOTS of pictures. I want to share the (hopefully) fun of the install with you fellow YWers |
08-16-2010, 09:19 PM | #75 |
Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 782
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Sorry I was not able to find my install notes. But I see you have it wired in already. I had the same issue with the MAF. I tried everything with no luck. Trust me when i say this, you wont need it. All you are going to need is fuel control. To use the FIC I dont need notes so when you start messing with it get in contact with me.
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08-16-2010, 09:57 PM | #76 |
1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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You're sure you didn't hook the MAF up to the FIC backwards right? I know on the e-blue there was in from MAF and out to ECU.
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08-16-2010, 10:10 PM | #77 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Wow come to think of it... That definitely is it. I didn't think about it when I was wiring it up. Instead, I wired it exactly like the injectors... in from ECU, out to engine. I'll switch them tomorrow.
cdydjded, The only reason I hooked up the MAF wires/tps sensor was to potentially aid in tuning. I also thought it would allow me to avoid a CEL with the turbo in and running. However, the more I think about the setup of the Zage kit, I'm not sure if I'd even have a CEL. The MAF sensor goes before the turbo, and I'm keeping my stock o2 sensors. But wouldn't that throw out system too lean/rich codes? |
08-17-2010, 01:25 AM | #78 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Was just combing through the Zage kit and noticed their turbocharger has 4 inlet/outlets (6 actually, 2 are welded). Could this possibly mean it can be water cooled? I don't know how to tell... I'll snap some pics of it tomorrow.
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08-17-2010, 12:35 PM | #79 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Reversed MAF wires and now the engine runs
Still have a CEL though... Gonna get the code read later. |
08-17-2010, 05:44 PM | #80 |
Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 782
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Yes 2 are for oil lubrication (the one that has 2 threaded holes is oil out & the one on the opposite side is oil in) & 2 a for water cooling(the other two).
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08-17-2010, 06:02 PM | #81 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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can't wait to see you mount it up
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08-17-2010, 06:23 PM | #82 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Same here bro
I wasn't expecting to get a water cooled turbo, and I just got back from getting bolts to close the holes... I'll make a trip to home depot again early tomorrow and grab some nipples + lines to get it water cooled. Where would be the best place to tap the coolant lines? |
08-17-2010, 06:28 PM | #83 |
C'est la vie
Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chicago
Posts: 482
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I see your making big moves, the race is on. Chi-town vs. Jerezy
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08-17-2010, 09:42 PM | #84 | |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Quote:
I'll let you know that, despite what you may see on Jersey Shore, I am not a drunken and obnoxious waste of life and am capable of being productive. So far I'm thinking I'll use the TB coolant lines along with a tee to cool the turbo. |
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08-17-2010, 09:48 PM | #85 |
Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 782
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IMO the coolant lines that go through the throttle body would be the most accessible
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08-17-2010, 10:40 PM | #86 |
1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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08-18-2010, 02:42 PM | #87 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Exhaust is done and is LOUD, especially in the cabin. I'm gonna order some Dynamat, otherwise it's great
Here' some pictures of the illusive Zage kit to hold you guys over. And here's about half the additional stuff I bought that is needed for oil / water feed and return attachment, as well as others. Gonna throw the specs here that will be put in my future install guide: 2x 7/16" x 1 1/4" bolts (turbo)* 2x M8-1.25 x 40mm bolts (intercooler, could be shorter) 2x 1/8" x close fittings (oil feed+return)** 1x 3/8" female to 1/8" NPT female fitting (oil feed) 1x 1/2" male flare connector (extend feed line)*** 2x 1/4" compression male to 1/4" NPT fitting (water, turbo outlets) 2x 1/4" NPT male to 1/4" barb (water... 5/16" couldn't be found) 3x 5/16" nylon tees (cooling turbo, BOV) 2x 5/16" dia. coolant tubing (turbo) 1x 5/16" dia. vacuum hose (BOV) 1x 1/2" fitting, 36" steel gas hose (oil feed, was all I could find, praying it works...)*** *Only need if water cooling isn't used. **I wanted to use a 1/8" x 1 1/4" Nipple for the return fitting that gets welded into the block, but the threading appears to be problematic with the threaded tee in the Zage kit. I'll probably just use the 1/8" x close fitting. Shorter, but should work. ***Shouldn't actually be needed. Also would like to mention that my CEL, once again, disappeared on its own. Last edited by Focus_Sh1ft; 08-20-2010 at 12:19 AM. |
08-18-2010, 05:32 PM | #88 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Lemme also add what I now know about this kit after looking it over carefully.
-There are no bolts to attach the intercooler -If using a sandwich adapter to feed the turbo, some adapters nuts will be needed -I don't know what they expect you to do with the feed tbh. I think that's up to the user, but the amount of steel braided line included won't be getting you anywhere. *I had the lines mixed up. This shouldn't be a problem. -The BOV has a bypass, but 1/4" rubber hosing is (obviously) needed but not included. A plug is included to close the bypass (but using the BOV and not the bypass is stupid). -The turbo, to my surprise, can be water cooled (which means my turbo timer will only be good for pretty lights ). However, there are no bolts, nipples, or even hoses included to make use of it. In fact, there aren't even additional bolts to close the holes. -I'm PRETTY SURE the actuator can be adjusted to add/subtract boost. -The Downpipe has 1 bung for the stock o2, and one with a removable plug. -The Turbo has 2 welded holes (what could they be used for?). As you can see, this kit is already far from a full bolt-on (although I don't think Zage ever claimed it to be). However, with some additional stuff and some guidance, it has the potential to be. I had some prior obligations today so I got kind of sidetracked... At this point though, I'm pretty sure all I need is some lines for the coolant. I didn't realize fuel lines wouldn't hold up, as the coolant will eat right through them apparently. Last edited by Focus_Sh1ft; 08-20-2010 at 12:20 AM. |
08-18-2010, 07:18 PM | #89 |
Bathroom + Laptop = <3
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The other port on the downpipe, the picture isn't too clear, but it looks like there is a plug in the other one that can be removed / unscrewed and is not the full size of the bung. Should be able to take it out and put a wideband sensor there.
The plugs on the turbo are usually secondary coolant locations for the feed i beleive, my K04s come with one on the side, depending on where I get the turbo, I need to swap the plug to the other one. Some things that aren't included in the kit seem just a minor inconvenience as long as everything else bolts up. Cracking pressure is cracking pressure you can make it harder to open to increase tension on the rod, but spring rate is spring rate inside the actuator housing itself. Use a boost controller if you want to raise boost the way it is setup now is so it opens with cracking pressure. probably preset anywhere from 6-10psi. Last edited by Nexus1155; 08-18-2010 at 07:28 PM. |
08-18-2010, 08:06 PM | #90 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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Why in the world would they weld the 2nd bung shut, instead of threading an insert into it?
Otherwise, not too bad so far! Keep going!
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
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