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05-02-2013, 12:34 AM | #91 | |
Drives: '08 Yaris LB Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 328
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As for the original post... This was the first thing that came to mind..
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05-03-2013, 01:52 PM | #92 |
Drives: I'm back !! 2012 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: atlanta ga
Posts: 128
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Been towing this trailer for several years. First with my 09 yaris and now with my 2012.
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best mpg so far, 46.1 !! Still shooting for 50 ! |
05-09-2013, 07:04 PM | #93 | |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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05-09-2013, 08:47 PM | #94 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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I like how your wheels and stripes match the trailer.
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05-09-2013, 09:45 PM | #95 |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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05-26-2013, 07:22 PM | #96 |
147K-Blue / 24K-Yellow
Drives: 2010 Ylw 3dr. AT(Blue-Wife's) Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: North Branch, MN
Posts: 77
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Exactly what I'm planning on putting behind mine w/600lb Quad on the trailer...Prolly still get mid 30's (at 37-40 now)
So what brand hitch? I like the Curt's mounting better than the Drawtite's, what do ya think? I'm gonna Paint My trailer Blazin' Blue (or as close as I can) Looks nice, I'd Paint the white wheels on the trailer black w/red accent stripe and some chrome or stainless lug nutz...Hell Yeah!
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All Weather Package, Power Package, Cruise, WeatherTech Floor Mats. Altimax Arctic Winter Tires. Repair List: 1 new blower motor, making funny noise. @ 91K (Water pump @ 120K) Mod List: 1. Black tape on most of the annoying blue high beam light behind the lens. (thank you CTScott) |
05-26-2013, 10:55 PM | #97 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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The Draw-tite style is MUCH harder to install unless you have tiny hands and a ratcheting 13mm wrench. I'm not sure what structural difference it makes, since they're both attached to the same basic points on the car. The Curt style indicates that you have to use additional straps for a bike or cargo rack, so there could be some torsional issues with the Curt style.
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05-26-2013, 11:18 PM | #98 |
147K-Blue / 24K-Yellow
Drives: 2010 Ylw 3dr. AT(Blue-Wife's) Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: North Branch, MN
Posts: 77
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I was curious, as the Curt attaches to the transport tie downs (vertical tabs running parallel with the car), and the Draw-tite looks like it attaches to the rear bumper shocks...Its the shearing of a bolt vs. stretching a bolt theory? (The DT looks like it would be a PITA to install too) Probably the steel of the car that would fail before a bolt, LOL
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All Weather Package, Power Package, Cruise, WeatherTech Floor Mats. Altimax Arctic Winter Tires. Repair List: 1 new blower motor, making funny noise. @ 91K (Water pump @ 120K) Mod List: 1. Black tape on most of the annoying blue high beam light behind the lens. (thank you CTScott) |
06-02-2013, 11:00 PM | #99 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Souh Alabama
Posts: 2
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Here is my 2007 Yaris towing our 1989 Skamper Pop Up camper. I also added a bike rack to the camper. You can see from the photo, if you look close, I had to add some extra weight to the tongue of the trailer to reduce sway. The bikes take too much weight off the tongue. The car is packed for the camping trip too. It tows great but on big hills I drop it down into "3" for some added power. The car likes to go 70 but the trailer likes 60 better. I tow this trailer in the middle of summer, 99 degrees, up to 150 miles without any problems. Their are not a lot of hills in South Alabama and North Florida, I wouldn't want to take it into the mountains. I have a Draw-Tite Hitch and it was easy to install. I plan to add two kayak racks for two kayaks to the top of the camper this summer. I have no idea how much the camper weighs but I tested it hard locally before making a long trip. When the wind is blowing or it is raining I keep it at 55mph or less. On our last trip we averaged exactly 25 mpg. Oh, and it tows so easy I sometimes forget it is back there. |
06-02-2013, 11:21 PM | #100 | |
Drives: '08 Yaris LB Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 328
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06-03-2013, 11:35 AM | #101 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Souh Alabama
Posts: 2
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No trailer brakes. It stops fine but I don't tailgate.
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06-03-2013, 07:21 PM | #102 |
Drives: 2010 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 213
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Wow that's amazing. Little cars can go.
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06-05-2013, 07:23 AM | #103 | |
Drives: 2008 Yaris LB 5 speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Boxborough, MA
Posts: 140
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I'm thinking of getting it to use with the Curt hitch. http://www.hitchanything.com/2008-To...and-56175.html |
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06-05-2013, 10:48 AM | #104 | |
Drives: I'm back !! 2012 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: atlanta ga
Posts: 128
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Quote:
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best mpg so far, 46.1 !! Still shooting for 50 ! |
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06-13-2013, 08:33 PM | #105 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris LB 5 speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Boxborough, MA
Posts: 140
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I ended up going with the Lowes 5x8 utility trailer and the Curt hitch. So far so good. Also ordered a wheel chock and plan on putting plywood down and mounting the chock. I will report back and post picks once I pick up the new Honda CRF250X and do some towing.. =)
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06-14-2013, 08:27 AM | #106 |
Drives: 2010 Yaris HB Blazin' Blue Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Leland, NC
Posts: 444
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Planning on buying this hitch for my Yaris, mostly to tow a 4'x4' autocross tire trailer......
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...eid=2010203616 And this is the trailer I'm planning on getting for use as the above mentioned autocross tire trailer, maybe Track Day event use too! http://www.harborfreight.com/870-lb-...res-42708.html racerb
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racerb '86 Celica GT '87 Celica GT-S '98 Rav4L '01 Tundra SR5 |
06-14-2013, 11:22 AM | #107 | |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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Quote:
- Get a 13mm ratcheting box-end wrench for installing the hitch. The clearance between the bolt heads and the rear bumper beam is too small for a socket wrench. Have someone with VERY small hands start the threads. - Finding a ball mount can be tough if you don't have a dedicated trailer store nearby. I found a solid 1-1/4" bar with a 5" rise and that makes the trailer pretty level with a 2" suspension drop. - If you plan on running tires over 205 width and/or rims over 7" wide, you will need to mount the tires above the trailer frame. I have 205's on 7" wheels and it just barely clears the bolt heads on the rear of the suspension after mounting the bolts with the split pins facing out. - Seriously consider the 12" wheel model. Larger tires = lower bearing speeds. - Remove the bearings from the hubs so that you can clean and re-pack them. It took me the better part of 2 hours to do that because I didn't have a solvent tank or a suitable brush to get at the "grease" they shipped with. - Remove at least the bottom leaf from the springs. Even with tires and a full tool box, the trailer jumps like a scared rabbit on sharp bumps. I'm considering removing the remaining captive leaf over the winter, but it requires a bit of engineering to replace the locating pin for the axle. - Get about 10 star washers for the frame bolts. The ground connection is through the frame for the lights, but is non-existent because of the paint. Put a star washer on each side of the joint (bolt -> washer -> frame -> frame -> washer -> nut) to get continuity. You only need to do this on one bolt per rail joint, e.g. between the tongue and front rail, between the front rail and each side. The alternatives to this are to grind down to bare metal at the joints or run a separate ground wire loop. - Tool boxes are a matter of preference and/or cost. I went with a 37" aluminum truck box from Tractor Supply Co. that just barely fits between the rails. I've found the box available online, but shipping was more than the cost of the box! I should probably do a separate thread on all of this, no? |
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06-14-2013, 05:45 PM | #108 |
Drives: 2010 Yaris HB Blazin' Blue Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Leland, NC
Posts: 444
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I'm doing mostly short distance tows, so really the 8" wheel/tire combo will work fine for me. I plan on breaking the hubs down, cleaning them in my parts washer, and re-packing them with synthetic bearing grease.
As for hitch, I'm just re-using the one I had for my '98 Rav4, it has just the right rise to it for my needs. When it comes to the storage box, I bought a plastic storage locker from Wal-Mart a while back that will hold my aluminum race jack, jack stands, and a small toolbox. I plan on making a separate tie down setup for the air tank, mostly cause it's pretty big. Thanks for the heads-up on the tire width issue, but I plan on running 205s max and maybe smaller at times. To handle the grounding thing, I was going to tack weld the entire frame once assembled and squared up, so it shouldn't be a big deal. I really kinda hate to buy another trailer, but for just hauling tires this makes the most sense. Right now I've got a 5'x8' utility, a 7.5'x 14' car hauler, and my 8.5'x20' enclosed race trailer, but hey what's one more!! racerb
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racerb '86 Celica GT '87 Celica GT-S '98 Rav4L '01 Tundra SR5 |
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