HID - Page 7 - Toyota Yaris Forums

eco · 11-07-2006, 02:03 AM

How many amps are the two fuses that are used for the HID's.

Yaris-TJ · 11-10-2006, 06:56 PM

Got a dumb question

I got my HID, it has high halogen..KLIGHT..( I know it's chinesse..but I'll give it a shot..it's not the first, and won't be the last!

)

the wires for the high are both yellow..I can't distinguish positive or Negative..

Do they have polarity or can I plug them indistinctively?

Yaris-TJ · 11-10-2006, 07:34 PM

FYI..KLIGHT
Imagen(31).jpg

Jfoofoo · 11-11-2006, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IsLNdbOi

There's supposedly a small area under each headlight on the Yaris just for the ballasts, but I'm not sure if it's on the sedan or liftback.

Can anyone with LB confirm or deny this?

Violin · 11-11-2006, 02:30 PM

On my liftback with cold weather package, the washer tank is so large, there is no space between the headlight and the tank - so no.

Violin · 11-11-2006, 03:14 PM

OK - here we go. Here are some photos from my install of the EaglEye high/low kit.

First of all, the Yaris has a switching ground system - one the three terminals are always powered, even with the lights off and the high and low beams are controlled by switching on the ground at one of the other two terminals. This is not the more common switching positives system found on most cars. Fortunately this kit makes it easy to handle this. On their web page, this is referred to as the 'special type':
http://www.namyung.co.kr/english/hotproduct/hidh4.asp

You simply disconnect the blue and black wires and reverse them. There is a diode with a little arrow drawn on it. You pull it out and turn it 180 degrees.

Disconnect the battery negative before you start.

It makes it a whole lot easier if you remove the five little black pop clips on the top of the bumper and the one in each wheel well to pop the top of the bumper out.

Remove the three bolts on each headlight.

It’s a good idea to mask each one so they don't get scratched.

Disconnect the wiring harness from each light and remove the rubber boot. Wearing latex gloves, remove the old light bulbs and install the new ones. Carefully cut off the rubber boots supplied with the kit, they won't fit our headlights. Pull the wires through the factory boot and put it back in place.

This seemed like a good place to ground the new wiring harnesses.

The power wires on the new harnesses go to the positive terminal on the battery. I removed the fuses first.

I got some M6 - 1.00 x 10 hex screws and lock washers to attach the relays on the top of the struts.

These spots worked for the ballasts.

I put a cable tie around each boot.

...and followed it up with some self sealing rubber tape - the kind electricians use on electrical services. This stuff is expensive, but I had some already and I really wanted to keep dust and moisture out of the headlight housing. You might safely omit this.

Finally, reinstall the 20 amp fuses in the new harnesses, reattach the battery ground, unmask the headlights and reattach them and the bumper.

Go grab a beer and wait till dark to aim the lights.

*Chris07LB* · 11-11-2006, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Violin

OK - here we go. Here are some photos from my install of the EaglEye high/low kit.

Nice work!

Glad to see you got everything going correctly, your post will be a BIG headache saver for anyone doing the Eagleye High/Low kits.

Be sure to make a new post once you have them installed.

On a side note, the Eagleye single (low beam only) kits are cake to install, but thats because its just that,... a SINGLE beam kit! No relays to mount and wire, no need to remove headlights, just remove old, install new, and mount the ballasts.

Here's another option for mounting the ballasts, without having to drill anything.

Yaris-TJ · 11-11-2006, 08:48 PM

hi guys! gotta question! it looks like if you have dual...do you need a relay?

also..wheres the diode that has to be reversed??

Violin · 11-11-2006, 09:39 PM

You only need a relay if you have another wiring harness which is really a good idea because the current draw when you first turn on your ballasts will fry your wires over time. My ballasts get powered directly from the battery - the factory wiring only serves to tell the relays on the new harness when the lights are on/off or high/low. The diode is on the new harness - if your kit doesn't have another harness, you won't have a diode.

I'm a little disappointed in the cutoff on the lighting. There is some reflection off the little doohickeys that control the high beams but overall, not bad. What isn't so good is I have to be really careful switching from high to low beams - if it bumps through the low beam position to the flash to pass position; one or both lights go off! Also, the high beam indicator doesn't work because there is no feedback from the bulb. I can live with both, I just have to be very careful when switching from high to low.

Low beam:

High beam:

Low beam on road:

Color (5,000k):

eco · 11-12-2006, 01:59 AM

Ok,let me get this straight before I order,with the single beam seat the boots supplied will fit right.

eco · 11-12-2006, 02:00 AM

And Violin,couldnt you skipe the mounting of the relays,by using a zip tie,and tie it to a wire from the engine.

*Chris07LB* · 11-12-2006, 03:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eco

Ok,let me get this straight before I order,with the single beam seat the boots supplied will fit right.

Whats included in BOTH kits is a rubber gromet... the gromet (size of a quater) is simply cut off, as its used only if you were to drill a hole in the housing (not needed) to route the wires, while making a weather tight seal..

Violin · 11-12-2006, 07:50 AM

But if I understand correctly, the factory boot seals the low beam only bulb like the standard H4 bulb.

I'm wondering if a resistor across the high beam ground and power on the factory plug will return functionality of the high beam indicator. I'll probably write the manufacturer regarding my two issues.

Violin · 11-12-2006, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eco

And Violin,couldnt you skipe the mounting of the relays,by using a zip tie,and tie it to a wire from the engine.

True, but it looks much better the way I did it. There's certainly some flexibility in installation. Feel free to get creative.

Violin · 11-12-2006, 07:53 AM

Oh yeah... the DRL's need to be disabled even with this kit... Sorry Canadians.

Yaris-TJ · 11-13-2006, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Violin

True, but it looks much better the way I did it. There's certainly some flexibility in installation. Feel free to get creative.

Correct.I had to take mine to a shop...

The guys didn't have a clue at first.

Then he figured out that the way the light worked was that it changed grounds when doing the light change..

Then he made some inverts in cables, and it worked..

Not very satisified with ligh though...

I'll try to post pictures later on..

Low HID, looks like HIGH, since it shots the light above the space where regular low was..

High Halogen shots the light where the old LOW was..

Is there a chance that when I placed the bulbs they were reversed? I now that bulbs have some kind of 3-rivets, that make it fit only in one direcction..

any ideas?

*Chris07LB* · 11-13-2006, 10:59 AM

H4 bulb base, either halogen or HID, will only fit one way.

With an EAGLEYE high/low HID setup, it will be the same light brightness for the high beams, but re-directed upwards. The stock factory H4 high/low halogen bulb, will be a brighter high beam light and directed upwards.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesnt your setup use a halogen for the highs?

Yaris-TJ · 11-13-2006, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris07LB

H4 bulb base, either halogen or HID, will only fit one way.

With an EAGLEYE high/low HID setup, it will be the same light brightness for the high beams, but re-directed upwards. An H4 high/low halogen, will be a brighter light and directed upwards.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesnt your setup use a halogen for the highs?

Yes Chris07LB...it has high-Halogen / Low HID..

mine is not as you mentioned..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris07LB

With an EAGLEYE high/low HID setup, it will be the same light brightness for the high beams, but re-directed upwards.

It's actually opposite..

I don't have the EAGLEYET, but it should work similar..

11-10-2006, 07:34 PM	#111
Yaris-TJ View User's Garage Drives: Yaris Sedan ST Barcelona Red Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Tijuana, Mexico Posts: 84	KLIGHT FYI..KLIGHT Imagen(31).jpg

11-07-2006, 02:03 AM	#109
eco Drives: 2007 Black Yaris sedan Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Atlanta Posts: 884	How many amps are the two fuses that are used for the HID's.

11-10-2006, 06:56 PM	#110
Yaris-TJ View User's Garage Drives: Yaris Sedan ST Barcelona Red Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Tijuana, Mexico Posts: 84	Got a dumb question I got my HID, it has high halogen..KLIGHT..( I know it's chinesse..but I'll give it a shot..it's not the first, and won't be the last! ) the wires for the high are both yellow..I can't distinguish positive or Negative.. Do they have polarity or can I plug them indistinctively?

11-11-2006, 02:30 PM	#113
Violin View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Auto Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,592	On my liftback with cold weather package, the washer tank is so large, there is no space between the headlight and the tank - so no.

11-11-2006, 03:14 PM	#114
Violin View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Auto Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,592	OK - here we go. Here are some photos from my install of the EaglEye high/low kit. First of all, the Yaris has a switching ground system - one the three terminals are always powered, even with the lights off and the high and low beams are controlled by switching on the ground at one of the other two terminals. This is not the more common switching positives system found on most cars. Fortunately this kit makes it easy to handle this. On their web page, this is referred to as the 'special type': http://www.namyung.co.kr/english/hotproduct/hidh4.asp You simply disconnect the blue and black wires and reverse them. There is a diode with a little arrow drawn on it. You pull it out and turn it 180 degrees. Disconnect the battery negative before you start. It makes it a whole lot easier if you remove the five little black pop clips on the top of the bumper and the one in each wheel well to pop the top of the bumper out. Remove the three bolts on each headlight. It’s a good idea to mask each one so they don't get scratched. Disconnect the wiring harness from each light and remove the rubber boot. Wearing latex gloves, remove the old light bulbs and install the new ones. Carefully cut off the rubber boots supplied with the kit, they won't fit our headlights. Pull the wires through the factory boot and put it back in place. This seemed like a good place to ground the new wiring harnesses. The power wires on the new harnesses go to the positive terminal on the battery. I removed the fuses first. I got some M6 - 1.00 x 10 hex screws and lock washers to attach the relays on the top of the struts. These spots worked for the ballasts. I put a cable tie around each boot. ...and followed it up with some self sealing rubber tape - the kind electricians use on electrical services. This stuff is expensive, but I had some already and I really wanted to keep dust and moisture out of the headlight housing. You might safely omit this. Finally, reinstall the 20 amp fuses in the new harnesses, reattach the battery ground, unmask the headlights and reattach them and the bumper. Go grab a beer and wait till dark to aim the lights.

11-11-2006, 08:48 PM	#116
Yaris-TJ View User's Garage Drives: Yaris Sedan ST Barcelona Red Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Tijuana, Mexico Posts: 84	hi guys! gotta question! it looks like if you have dual...do you need a relay? also..wheres the diode that has to be reversed??

11-11-2006, 09:39 PM	#117
Violin View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Auto Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,592	You only need a relay if you have another wiring harness which is really a good idea because the current draw when you first turn on your ballasts will fry your wires over time. My ballasts get powered directly from the battery - the factory wiring only serves to tell the relays on the new harness when the lights are on/off or high/low. The diode is on the new harness - if your kit doesn't have another harness, you won't have a diode. I'm a little disappointed in the cutoff on the lighting. There is some reflection off the little doohickeys that control the high beams but overall, not bad. What isn't so good is I have to be really careful switching from high to low beams - if it bumps through the low beam position to the flash to pass position; one or both lights go off! Also, the high beam indicator doesn't work because there is no feedback from the bulb. I can live with both, I just have to be very careful when switching from high to low. Low beam: High beam: Low beam on road: Color (5,000k):

11-12-2006, 01:59 AM	#118
eco Drives: 2007 Black Yaris sedan Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Atlanta Posts: 884	Ok,let me get this straight before I order,with the single beam seat the boots supplied will fit right.

11-12-2006, 02:00 AM	#119
eco Drives: 2007 Black Yaris sedan Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Atlanta Posts: 884	And Violin,couldnt you skipe the mounting of the relays,by using a zip tie,and tie it to a wire from the engine.

11-12-2006, 07:50 AM	#121
Violin View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Auto Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,592	But if I understand correctly, the factory boot seals the low beam only bulb like the standard H4 bulb. I'm wondering if a resistor across the high beam ground and power on the factory plug will return functionality of the high beam indicator. I'll probably write the manufacturer regarding my two issues.

11-12-2006, 07:53 AM	#123
Violin View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Auto Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,592	Oh yeah... the DRL's need to be disabled even with this kit... Sorry Canadians.