Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site
 

 


 
Go Back   Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site > Technical Forums > Forced Induction Forum
  The Tire Rack

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-22-2010, 11:50 AM   #109
pimp my yaris
C'est la vie
 
pimp my yaris's Avatar
 
Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chicago
Posts: 482
I also had to removed all the plastic crap as well. I also had to trim some sheet metal off the core support to get my pipes to fit on my intercooler and mount it straight. I used pneumatic scroll saw to do this quickly. But U could mabe use a electric sawzall too. The most important part is if you get frustrated just walk away and have a beer. It always brings on a good idea.
pimp my yaris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2010, 12:27 PM   #110
Focus_Sh1ft
 
Focus_Sh1ft's Avatar
 
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
So I just went outside to check my car. The stupid tarp collapsed and water got all over the manifold. It looks TERRIBLE. Like rust tbh, I'm hoping it's just the heat-resistant paint reacting? Thoughts?
Focus_Sh1ft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2010, 02:40 PM   #111
sleey0
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris LB
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 899
How could it rust overnight?

Highly doubtful.
sleey0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2010, 04:46 PM   #112
Focus_Sh1ft
 
Focus_Sh1ft's Avatar
 
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
Exactly as I thought, but the iron cast appears to becoming iron oxide. I don't think it's an issue at the moment, but I'm worried it'll spread. I was thinking about it too and it would probably get like this anyway once the exhaust is run through it for long enough. I'll post a picture later.

Unbelievably, one of my flange nuts snapped as well. It's still threaded for the most part, so I'm probably going to leave it and loosen all the others slightly. Clearly today was a bad day to work on it, so I canned it for now.
Focus_Sh1ft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2010, 11:25 PM   #113
Nexus1155
Bathroom + Laptop = <3
 
Drives: Audi
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Dorchester
Posts: 1,009
Send a message via AIM to Nexus1155
Yeah man today was a bad day to wrench in New England, rain sucked. went to harbor freight thats 10 miles down the road, legit took 4 hours to get everything and get out, and i still didn't get this dirtbike were playing with started.

Anyways, it may oxidize a bit, but you will be fine as long as nothing got into the engine itself that is. There will always be moisture back there somehow sometimes someway so it is bound to happen wether you put water on it or not unless you coat it with ceramic coating.

Have you ever seen a manifold stay perfect looking?
Nexus1155 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2010, 09:54 PM   #114
Focus_Sh1ft
 
Focus_Sh1ft's Avatar
 
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
Day 4

Alright guys, I'm so close... But I'm soooo beat.

EVERYTHING is installed. At this point I'm waiting for the sealant on the Zage oil pan to dry so I can put my oil back in. Yeah, I decided to use it afterall.

To start, here's a picture of the cast iron rusting


Started the day off trying to mount the intercooler. Whipped up these brackets.

Couldn't drill through the bumper support, so I gave up for the time being. That steel is THICK.

Started working on the oil feed and return.



I got the pan off, then for whatever reason decided to use the Zage oil pan afterall. The comments I made about it's design still stand, and I pray it works. Firstly, here's some pictures of it.



But instead of just putting it on, I brainstormed how to guarantee there wouldn't be an problems. I basically did two things that will hopefully allow gravity to constantly return oil.

I made sure the elbow angle didn't go any lower than what's seen here.


Then I made a cut in the engine block to allow for a slightly more diagonal orientation of the return line, other than the horizontal way the line would have ran.



I poured some oil in after the pan was installed, but it leaked everywhere. I used silicon sealant to seal all bolts and the edges of the pan.

Oh and a quick aside, here's one of the impossible to reach manifold bolts.

I finally was able to get an open wrench on it (barely) to get it somewhat tight. There was no way it was happening from the top of the car.

Ok so once the pan was done I worked on installing the bypass line for the BOV.


That was easy peesy. The coolant lines sucked (and so do these pictures).




Installed the air filter and MAF last.





Reinstalled AC lines so they're not just floating around. Also, here's a picture of my sweet zip tie hanger for the O2 sensor wires.


Finished the day off by pulling the spark plugs and EFI fuse.



So weather permitting, tuning day will either be tomorrow or Wednesday. Assuming there's no leaks when I re-add the oil, I'll crank the starter and look for oil leaks in pressurized areas. Then I'll pull the oil return real quick to make sure oil is present. Finally I'll start the engine and look for any and all air leaks (plan to get a video of that moment ).
Focus_Sh1ft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2010, 10:28 PM   #115
Nexus1155
Bathroom + Laptop = <3
 
Drives: Audi
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Dorchester
Posts: 1,009
Send a message via AIM to Nexus1155
methinks you might end up melting that O2 sensor cable if its not wrapped in something. Other than that, good post! can't wait to see more.
Nexus1155 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2010, 09:10 AM   #116
Focus_Sh1ft
 
Focus_Sh1ft's Avatar
 
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus1155 View Post
methinks you might end up melting that O2 sensor cable if its not wrapped in something. Other than that, good post! can't wait to see more.
Yeah it is a bit close, but it wasn't much further away from the stock header either. I bought like $50 worth of heat wrap so I guess I'd be silly not to wrap that too
Focus_Sh1ft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2010, 04:10 PM   #117
pimp my yaris
C'est la vie
 
pimp my yaris's Avatar
 
Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chicago
Posts: 482
Cant wait to hear how it drives.
pimp my yaris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2010, 04:32 PM   #118
Focus_Sh1ft
 
Focus_Sh1ft's Avatar
 
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
Quote:
Originally Posted by pimp my yaris View Post
Cant wait to hear how it drives.
I can't wait to SEE how it drives.

I'm ready to start the car / crank the engine, but I'm currently doing battle with Zage's pan. This thing sucks. It's barely leaking at the moment from the side of the pan where the two nuts go on, but they don't fit on the Zage pan. Even after doing some drilling to try to get them to thread the stems I've had no luck. Waiting for my silicon + JB Weld to dry and see if I finally have a seal, after having to take it off again earlier.
Focus_Sh1ft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2010, 05:21 PM   #119
why?
Only Happy When it Rains
 
why?'s Avatar
 
Drives: Yaris LB
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: harnett county NC
Posts: 4,097
Quote:
Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft View Post
I can't wait to SEE how it drives.

I'm ready to start the car / crank the engine, but I'm currently doing battle with Zage's pan. This thing sucks. It's barely leaking at the moment from the side of the pan where the two nuts go on, but they don't fit on the Zage pan. Even after doing some drilling to try to get them to thread the stems I've had no luck. Waiting for my silicon + JB Weld to dry and see if I finally have a seal, after having to take it off again earlier.
Ouch, so the part about Zage's oil pan being terrible are true. Still even with that it is a darn good deal.
__________________
Colin Chapman disciple
why? is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2010, 07:11 PM   #120
Yoda
 
Yoda's Avatar
 
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
Quote:
Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft View Post
I can't wait to SEE how it drives.

I'm ready to start the car / crank the engine, but I'm currently doing battle with Zage's pan. This thing sucks. It's barely leaking at the moment from the side of the pan where the two nuts go on, but they don't fit on the Zage pan. Even after doing some drilling to try to get them to thread the stems I've had no luck. Waiting for my silicon + JB Weld to dry and see if I finally have a seal, after having to take it off again earlier.
wishing you nothing but the best and no boom. Remember to prime it up
Yoda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2010, 12:17 AM   #121
Focus_Sh1ft
 
Focus_Sh1ft's Avatar
 
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
Quote:
Originally Posted by why? View Post
Ouch, so the part about Zage's oil pan being terrible are true. Still even with that it is a darn good deal.
Yeah, but this is an entirely different reason. Honestly, this is the only fitment problem that has really been a deal-breaker for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yoda View Post
wishing you nothing but the best and no boom. Remember to prime it up


IF I ever get to that part...
Just poured in some oil and guess what

LEAKS

Here's a quick time line of emotions:
then of course:

I sealed the whole inside edge of the pan this time, so I honestly don't know what to do. I drained the oil again and put some more sealant on the outside edge of the pan. This is exactly how things went last time. I fought a losing battle against leaks... I guess this time I'll be sure I give the silicon plenty of time to atleast tack?

Anyways, I've run out of things to do. Here's all that was left to do today (I can't reach the turbo / manifold with heat wrap while the car is raised).



So... yeah. I was originally going to do the oil feed and return first. I'm glad I didn't, because this whole situation is VERY discouraging.
Focus_Sh1ft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2010, 12:27 AM   #122
coheed
 
Drives: 08 BB LB
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Maiden, NC
Posts: 785
This maybe a stupid question, but was the surface being sealed clean before you put the pan on? Seen a few people try to put new oil pans on with out taking old gasket material off the surface before. Not saying your dumb just posing the question.
__________________
Too much of car culture is people taking things too seriously and not enjoying it for what it is.
coheed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2010, 12:35 AM   #123
Focus_Sh1ft
 
Focus_Sh1ft's Avatar
 
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
Quote:
Originally Posted by coheed View Post
This maybe a stupid question, but was the surface being sealed clean before you put the pan on? Seen a few people try to put new oil pans on with out taking old gasket material off the surface before. Not saying your dumb just posing the question.
Yeah, it was as clean as it was going to get. The problem ultimately is that because there are 2 nuts that won't fit, the pan isn't clamped properly on the right side of the plan. With that said, the leaks are still only very small. There really should have been a gasket included with the zage pan (or even a factory one). I'm thinking if this sealant fails again, I'll try JB Welding the pan on (which should solve that clamping issue). Worst case, I'll fashion up some sort of gasket.

It's so frustrating to be stuck because of a minor leak that I simply can't plug...
Focus_Sh1ft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2010, 12:54 AM   #124
Nexus1155
Bathroom + Laptop = <3
 
Drives: Audi
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Dorchester
Posts: 1,009
Send a message via AIM to Nexus1155
What kind of sealant are you using.

Take some pics of the area that is bad and how bad the holes are not lined up, maybe we can think of something to help you out.

I've only used JB Weld once on my car is when the mounting hole on my charge pipe came off -_-
Nexus1155 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2010, 02:51 AM   #125
advocate
 
Drives: car
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: location
Posts: 1,033
giant zip ties on the intercooler is DEFINITELY ftw
advocate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2010, 07:53 AM   #126
Yoda
 
Yoda's Avatar
 
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
Quote:
Originally Posted by advocate View Post
giant zip ties on the intercooler is DEFINITELY ftw
Keep an eye on it tho. That friction with the metal frame on top over time, will start to slowly shred it away.
Yoda is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: Autometer Cobalt 6170 Boost Gauge Nexus1155 Items for Sale by private party 2 02-02-2011 04:08 PM
Multiple cylinder misfire under boost LtNoogie Forced Induction Forum 13 11-02-2009 04:44 AM
Fill up with Super before starting your boost project LtNoogie Forced Induction Forum 5 12-01-2008 06:41 PM
Supercharger Selection and Limiting Boost Nexus1155 Forced Induction Forum 1 12-01-2008 03:51 PM
WTB: Boost Gauges Teruyume Items for Sale by private party 4 11-12-2006 02:42 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:45 PM.




YarisWorld
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.