I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[cali yaris]

yay "almost" welcome to the Club

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I definitely agree with priming ANY turbo. It's easy to do and there's a million ways to do it, so why not?

Nexus, reading your post reminded me of something interesting I noticed when I first inspected the turbo. I think Zage sent me a "pre-primed" turbocharger. There was oil on it, and at the time I immediately dismissed it because I thought it had simply come off my hands. Eh, doesn't matter now.

Current progress: all coolant leaks are sealed. Have a very slight leak coming from the banjo bolt that I resealed again, so that should be covered. The return flange on the turbo is leaking quite a bit of oil though... Will address that tomorrow... er, later.

Oh and also... My CEL disappeared, once again. So it was probably that supposed TB code I seem to get every time the ECU is reset. Should be interesting to see if I get another one when I start driving around.

Originally Posted by cali yaris

yay "almost" welcome to the Club

Man did I earn it.

[Nexus1155]

Yeah man, why not take precautions? Honestly. It's a car, what can go wrong will go wrong. In the S4 I need to take the engine out to swap turbos, and the lines need to be in specific places or they will melt from excessive heat. It's little things like priming the turbos gives peace of mind not having to go through BS removing and installing them again. I just ran without a cluster to see if it will work and run, apparently my oil pressure was low, no cluster, no lights. KNOCK KNOCK KABOOM goes one of my rods.

Yeah, the turbos usually have little caps on them, one time one was full of oil and just spilled all over my lap.

-_- the coolant line you JB Welded? Is the oil return gasketed?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Still (patiently) battling an oil leak from the turbo. I'm not entirely sure where it's coming from... There's definitely a small leak at the least from the banjo bolt, but I still don't know about the return flange. I've used like half a tube of JB Weld at this point lol... I think the problem is the leak is in a spot that I can't reach.

And yes, the oil return has some sort of gasket.

[cali yaris]

What I'm currently thinking is the way the return line is setup is causing a huge oil buildup, thus causing a large enough rise in pressure to finally leak out of the return gasket.

I doubt it. I had a return line on my tC that was too small and would back up. The oil would back up into the turbo and cause smoke. Definitely didn't blow any seals, there isn't any pressure in the return line. I'm pretty sure it just gravity feeds down to the pan, right?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Based on what you guys have said and what I've read, I'm pretty convinced I over tightened the flange and thus damaged the gasket. I was watching the oil while my car was idling and that's exactly where it was coming from.

[Nexus1155]

well atleast its an easy fix, alot of places have Mr. Gasket material. I'd even ship you some if I didn't give the rest to my DSM buddy, but im sure you want it fixed ASAP too lol. The stuff I had for gaskets might have been a little too intense for just a drain though.

Hurry up and fix it so we can see some vids!!!! :)

[pimp my yaris]

I would buy some paper gasket material from local auto parts store and cut it to the shape you need. Then coat it with a light layer of rtv silicone sealent. Then reatach and dont overtighten the bolts. If its to tight the gasket will just squeeze out the sides. Good luck Jerzy

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

I would buy some paper gasket material from local auto parts store and cut it to the shape you need. Then coat it with a light layer of rtv silicone sealent. Then reatach and dont overtighten the bolts. If its to tight the gasket will just squeeze out the sides. Good luck Jerzy

Worst case I'll be doing that. I'll have to chisel off the JB Weld but eh. The banjo bolt is definitely leaking as well, and I can't reach it with sealant.

If you guys haven't figured it out, I'm desperate to NOT have to pull the turbo back out. The thought of doing that...

Yeah and Nexus, I'm as eager as you are dude. I have a boosted Yaris sitting in my driveway, and the only thing stopping me from driving it is a tiny oil leak.

EDIT: Forgot to mention I'm already almost done putting together my install guide, if anyone is interested. I tried to make it as comprehensive as possible.

[Nexus1155]

I skimmed it over, is this guide going to ZAGE? Looks pretty in depth though which is good. LOL I like the use of gaybolt.jpg.. I don't know if you were trying to, but you might want to try to embed the pics? I don't know if you did because Word did something funny with converting the file, but yeah I'll read it when i get back from the garage.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by Nexus1155

I skimmed it over, is this guide going to ZAGE? Looks pretty in depth though which is good. LOL I like the use of gaybolt.jpg.. I don't know if you were trying to, but you might want to try to embed the pics? I don't know if you did because Word did something funny with converting the file, but yeah I'll read it when i get back from the garage.

Yeah word really was a poor choice, I really wanted to embed the pictures but it was a nightmare... Probably gonna make a PDF or something. The guide will be going to zage, but I'm going to post it up here as well. I'm hoping with a guide that's super in depth, maybe it'll sway some people to take the plunge like I did. It's much more reassuring to do something you know that has been done successfully... and nerve-racking when you're the one entering the uncharted waters first.
Really though, how many turbocharged Yaris' are there in the states currently with me included, five?

Also, thanks a lot for the cheers of joys guys, but apparently I'm not quite there yet...

Was driving to work today, oil idiot light started flashing and then stayed on, accompanied by a CEL. I'm still leaking oil BAD. Had to stop and buy 4 quarts of oil. Immediately threw 2 in. Had to throw the third in on the way home. Hopefully I was prompt enough in dealing with it. I was watching my oil pressure closely and was getting worried... sure enough.

So, it's time to stop beating around the bush and deal with this the right way. I have all day available to me tomorrow, so the turbo + downpipe will be coming out.

This time around, I'll seal the banjo bolt + washers, return flange, return gasket, return bolts, etc. with silicone sealant. I really should have done this the first time around, but I had no idea this was going to happen. Will also inject the turbo with the crappy oil I had to buy and look for leaks. If anyone else has any other ideas or thinks silicone is going to suck for this use, let me know immediately.

On the positive side, I was able to (hopefully) drive this thing without doing any damage, so it'll be a lot easier to be patient now. I still can't even begin to describe how much fun it is to drive this car. I swear, everytime I see the needle on my boost gauge pass the 0, I get such a huge smile lol. Between my exhaust and turbo, the noise and feeling when you hit the throttle.. is intoxicating

On a side note, I felt it was time to change my ride details.

[PETERPOOP]

Congrats! You did what most people wouldn't and couldn't do (including me)! Dyno that puppy and upload some videos.:)

[Yoda]

woot happy for you man GOOD JOB!!!!

[why?]

lol, welcome to the joys of a turbo car. Just make sure there is enough oil and coolant, and enjoy!

[pimp my yaris]

Sounds awsome. Congrats Jerzy you got the jump on me. My pocket book is holding me back right know and Im currently looking for someone to weld up my stainless steel down pipe.
That banjo fitting shouldnt need any sealent. Their should be one copper washer on each side on the bajo. For a total of two. These washers get squeezed when tightening down the bolt and the washers get slightly deformed to make a perfect seal between the banjo bolt, banjo line and your turbo. This line is under 60 psi of oil pressure. Thats what most toyota's put out. Their is no silicone or jb weld in the world that will seal that.
Make sure their is one copper washer between the line and the top of the bolt and one between the line and the turbo. This line should be snug and not crazy tight! If the washers are to deformed or squeezed out of place they will not seal.
Also make sure the threads in the turbo and the bolt are not cross threaded or stripped. If the washers do not look like washers anymore because they have been overly squeezed, replace them. Make sure you buy copper washers from a decent auto parts store. Steel washers will not work. These copper washers also seal the brakes lines on your car. They hold over 1000 psi. So if its done right they will hold that 60 psi of oil with no problems and no sealent. Not to sound like a ass, but i have been a mechanic for a long time at several different dealer ships. Please throw out that JB weld. Its whats called a temperary fix to a permanent problem. Its time consuming and a pain in the ass to remove the turbo and check all this shit but you will be so happy when you can cruise all over and not worry about oil leaks.
Best of luck Jerzy. I also want to see a video of this thing trowing down some rubber for insperation.

[stevethegimp]

Very great thread and it has really pushed me into pulling the trigger on installing a turbo into my hatch in the next 1.5 months. I'm really hoping microimage comes out with a kit soon but if not i'll probably be shooting for a zage kit as well!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by stevethegimp

Very great thread and it has really pushed me into pulling the trigger on installing a turbo into my hatch in the next 1.5 months. I'm really hoping microimage comes out with a kit soon but if not i'll probably be shooting for a zage kit as well!

Thank you for continuing to fuel my ego boost, give my rough draft a read and see if there's anything that seems unclear

pimp_my_yaris, you don't sound like an ass at all lol. There's a reason I post here, and it's to tap into the knowledge of actual mechanics and people with this kind of experience. With that said, I want to point out the banjo bolt is, in fact, leaking. With what you said about the copper washers though, I'm inclined to think it's leaking from where the bolt threads into the turbo. Hopefully it'll become more apparent when I take it off. The return leak is still a total mystery as well.

This merits the following though - should I not even bother with silicone on the bolts then? I won't put them on the washers because that would probably mess the pressure seal up. I probably can still use it to seal the return gasket and flange though, right? It is depressurized afterall.

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Thank you for continuing to fuel my ego boost, give my rough draft a read and see if there's anything that seems unclear

pimp_my_yaris, you don't sound like an ass at all lol. There's a reason I post here, and it's to tap into the knowledge of actual mechanics and people with this kind of experience. With that said, I want to point out the banjo bolt is, in fact, leaking. With what you said about the copper washers though, I'm inclined to think it's leaking from where the bolt threads into the turbo. Hopefully it'll become more apparent when I take it off. The return leak is still a total mystery as well.

This merits the following though - should I not even bother with silicone on the bolts then? I won't put them on the washers because that would probably mess the pressure seal up. I probably can still use it to seal the return gasket and flange though, right? It is depressurized afterall.

Yes some silicone rtv sealent is a good idea on the return line gasket. And check to see if that bajo bolt cracked as well. It is not as stong as a regular bolt because it has been holowed out to allow oil to flow through it.