I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Currently waiting for my JB Weld to dry, lemme explain a few things.

Originally I thought I was flooding the engine because the engine bay smelled strongly of gasoline, even after pulling the EFI fuse. I then realized there were actually two EFI fuses, so I pulled them both. I also had the spark plugs unplugged.

The reason it wasn't priming was because originally I was only cranking the engine for about 5 second intervals (I was afraid I would kill the battery). The oil pump must not have had enough time to work because when I cranked it longer, my oil pressure gauge finally began building pressure around 10 seconds.

Once I had that figured out, I cranked the engine 6 times for 10-15 seconds, or about however long it took oil pressure to build to 20 psi. I knew it had reached the turbo because I had oil that had leaked onto my coolant line. So that was arguably the first leak I've ever been happy to see.

So at this point, I'm currently just cleaning up any remaining leaks. Should be able to get tuned tomorrow, and (hopefully) later I'll run up to Advance Auto and get my CEL code read. Most likely has something to do with the MAF or O2... Not surprised to see it though.

Also, I've figured out exactly what the smoke is - leaking oil burning. That should be solved shortly.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Got home from work, I seem to have drastically decreased leakage at this point SO...

Took the car for a spin...

Drove conservatively to get some premium gas...

Then immediately burned out of the gas station where by I almost got pulled over!

I'm honestly at a loss for words at the torque I get. THIS IS THE COOLEST THING EVER LOL. Can you tell this is my first time in a forced induction car?

So anyways, I noticed I was getting 1-2 pounds of boost at about 2300 rpm, and at 3000 rpm I was up to 6 (the zage wastegate is set to .5 bar = 7.25 psi). In other words, this is PERFECT.

I'm convinced every cut and bruise, as well as every penny spent, was more than worth it. Can't wait to get familiar with my new car. Is this thing really still a yaris?

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Leak is dealt with.


I'm also worried to continued because at this point I most likely am flooding the engine with fuel, even after pulling the injector plugs.

I am not sure what you need to say with this sentence. There is no way the engine is flooding with fuel with the injector plugs pulled out unless:

1. The engine is already flooded with fuel with the previous cranking of course with the plugs connected.

2. If the plugs are replaced to colder side ones because of turbo, it is normal that engine do not start immediately or else the same like when you had the stock plugs. If the plugs are replaced, use the stock plugs to ensure good startup and then change them later. The important thing is not to drive with boost on stock plugs.

3. Plugs could be wet with fuel effecting spark. Remove and clean all 4 with a wire brush in the meantime check the plug gap is within tolerance.

There could be more reasons but one of these should solve the problem.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Car started AND............








You guys gotta hear this thing! I'll take a video later. I currently have a small leak coming from the banjo bolt, and atleast one of my coolant lines is leaking.

My only concern was that the manifold / turbo / downpipe began smoking, but I think that may be the iron oxide burning. Definitely would like to hear some feedback regarding that.

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Car started AND............








You guys gotta hear this thing! I'll take a video later. I currently have a small leak coming from the banjo bolt, and atleast one of my coolant lines is leaking.

My only concern was that the manifold / turbo / downpipe began smoking, but I think that may be the iron oxide burning. Definitely would like to hear some feedback regarding that.

If you used Silicone Heat resistant coat and wrapping on exhaust these are surely the ones making that smoke. This smoke will last till 15minutes and would normally happen only at the first heatup after installation so be cool

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by Parmas

If you used Silicone Heat resistant coat and wrapping on exhaust these are surely the ones making that smoke. This smoke will last till 15minutes and would normally happen only at the first heatup after installation so be cool

Thanks man, that makes me feel sooo much better.

Just to clarify, a turbo timer shouldn't be necessary since I have the turbo water cooled, correct?

[pimp my yaris]

Cant wait to hear how it drives.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

Cant wait to hear how it drives.

I can't wait to SEE how it drives.

I'm ready to start the car / crank the engine, but I'm currently doing battle with Zage's pan. This thing sucks. It's barely leaking at the moment from the side of the pan where the two nuts go on, but they don't fit on the Zage pan. Even after doing some drilling to try to get them to thread the stems I've had no luck. Waiting for my silicon + JB Weld to dry and see if I finally have a seal, after having to take it off again earlier.

[why?]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

I can't wait to SEE how it drives.

I'm ready to start the car / crank the engine, but I'm currently doing battle with Zage's pan. This thing sucks. It's barely leaking at the moment from the side of the pan where the two nuts go on, but they don't fit on the Zage pan. Even after doing some drilling to try to get them to thread the stems I've had no luck. Waiting for my silicon + JB Weld to dry and see if I finally have a seal, after having to take it off again earlier.

Ouch, so the part about Zage's oil pan being terrible are true. Still even with that it is a darn good deal.

[Yoda]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

I can't wait to SEE how it drives.

I'm ready to start the car / crank the engine, but I'm currently doing battle with Zage's pan. This thing sucks. It's barely leaking at the moment from the side of the pan where the two nuts go on, but they don't fit on the Zage pan. Even after doing some drilling to try to get them to thread the stems I've had no luck. Waiting for my silicon + JB Weld to dry and see if I finally have a seal, after having to take it off again earlier.

wishing you nothing but the best and no boom. Remember to prime it up

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by why?

Ouch, so the part about Zage's oil pan being terrible are true. Still even with that it is a darn good deal.

Yeah, but this is an entirely different reason. Honestly, this is the only fitment problem that has really been a deal-breaker for me.

Originally Posted by Yoda

wishing you nothing but the best and no boom. Remember to prime it up

IF I ever get to that part...
Just poured in some oil and guess what

LEAKS

Here's a quick time line of emotions:
then of course:

I sealed the whole inside edge of the pan this time, so I honestly don't know what to do. I drained the oil again and put some more sealant on the outside edge of the pan. This is exactly how things went last time. I fought a losing battle against leaks... I guess this time I'll be sure I give the silicon plenty of time to atleast tack?

Anyways, I've run out of things to do. Here's all that was left to do today (I can't reach the turbo / manifold with heat wrap while the car is raised).



So... yeah. I was originally going to do the oil feed and return first. I'm glad I didn't, because this whole situation is VERY discouraging.

[coheed]

This maybe a stupid question, but was the surface being sealed clean before you put the pan on? Seen a few people try to put new oil pans on with out taking old gasket material off the surface before. Not saying your dumb just posing the question.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by coheed

This maybe a stupid question, but was the surface being sealed clean before you put the pan on? Seen a few people try to put new oil pans on with out taking old gasket material off the surface before. Not saying your dumb just posing the question.

Yeah, it was as clean as it was going to get. The problem ultimately is that because there are 2 nuts that won't fit, the pan isn't clamped properly on the right side of the plan. With that said, the leaks are still only very small. There really should have been a gasket included with the zage pan (or even a factory one). I'm thinking if this sealant fails again, I'll try JB Welding the pan on (which should solve that clamping issue). Worst case, I'll fashion up some sort of gasket.

It's so frustrating to be stuck because of a minor leak that I simply can't plug...

[Nexus1155]

What kind of sealant are you using.

Take some pics of the area that is bad and how bad the holes are not lined up, maybe we can think of something to help you out.

I've only used JB Weld once on my car is when the mounting hole on my charge pipe came off -_-

[advocate]

giant zip ties on the intercooler is DEFINITELY ftw

[Yoda]

Originally Posted by advocate

giant zip ties on the intercooler is DEFINITELY ftw

Keep an eye on it tho. That friction with the metal frame on top over time, will start to slowly shred it away.

[Bluevitz-rs]

I don't know your process for mounting the oil pan but here's how they should normaly go on...

1. clean everything with a clean rag and make sure there is no oil were the silicone will seat.

2. lay a bead around the pan about 1/8" thick making sure you go all the way around the bolt holes.

3. when assembling, only snug the bolts enough to start pressing the silicone out the side.

4. let dry.

5. tighten the bolts to spec. (probably around 15-20 ft/lbs. not very tight)

Even if the pan is warped it should still seal with the method.

[cdydjded]

Start the freakin car! I did not & have never primed a turbo. Once you start the car oil will go to the turbo immediately....