Want to build costom turbo kit. Need advice from boosted guys!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

I recently have noticed a small problem with my cheap turbo. When the car sits overnight and U first start it up in the morning. If I just let it idle and warm up for a while I will get some white smoke coming from my exhaust when the engine starts to warm up. If I rev it up I get a little cloud of smoke. Once I start driving the smoke is gone and no more problem. I have removed my downpipe and have noticed some oil leaking from the turbo into the exhaust when the car sits and gets cold. I have also checked my oil level regularly and never noticed any oil burning issue. Even making 800mile trip there was no oil loss.
So I think its only a drop or two that leaks into the exhaust every night. It just really pisses me off though. I have done everything to prevent this. My coolant lines are connected and I have a turbo timer.
I guess thats what U get for buying the cheap Chinese turbo. I hope it holds up through winter and mabe I will get a Garret next summer. Its 950$ compared to the 240$ I spent for my turbo.
I wonder if I had a converter, mabe that would eliminate the smoke?

Yeah, doesn't seem like it's THAT big of a deal. I'm still dripping oil a bit, but it's like your case where the amount is so insignificant that its not even effecting oil level.

And let's be real here, your install went wayyyy too good regarding leaks until now lol.

[Dj WaRrIoR]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

Thanks for the tip. I didnt think of that.

no prob believe me i've been through ALOOOTT i haven't even read here... just so you know i turbocharged my sedan BY MYSELF so i made ALOT of noobie mistakes like not connecting the blow-off valve to vacumm just boost but now i took out my motor and reaaallyyy build it by myself with forged internals after 2 weeks trying i cranked it up yesterday now to set the idle rpm and the break-in period and then dynoooo!!! loll

ok.. back to you... about the lil oil problem yes i bought 3 cheap turbos and they leaked a lot but it was another problem.. but doing my research, talking to ppl.. i found out a great way to eliminate that... i dont know if youll understand but it is an "oil-restrictor" have you seen a NOS jet (yes, nitrous)?? i bought a nos jet adapter 1/8 npt and bought a i think it was a 45cc jet i don really remember and that lowers the volume and oil pressure going through the turbocharger thus not pushing oil to the sides thus leaking to your hot side of the turbocharger.... you just install the adapter on either end of the oil feed line.....in other words going from a burger king straw to a chinese rest. straw looolll......let me know if you understood...

[weapon5]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

I want to build a costom turbo setup using mostly E-bay parts. I am thinking t25/28 turbo. I have found exhaust manafold/turbo, intercooler and piping,oil and water lines if needed. Also a air intake and filter to mount the mass air sensor. I am sure I will need to buy at least 1 more intercooler piping kit and a blow off valve. And I found a downpipe witch will need to be costomized from a nissan silvia. Or I will need a complete costom downpipe.

My questions are what piggy back system should I use to control injector pulse? Will I need bigger injectors right away? I am only looking for 150-170whp. Also should oil source for turbo be tapped from oil pressure sensor or do I need to buy adapter to tap near the filter? I am also sure a new clutch will be in my future shortly after install. I am thinking center force dual friction.
Also can I tune a piggy back system with a lap top and a wide band o2s or do you need some specialized training to complete this. I am a ase master tech for about 12 years, but I have never done tuning. Its just so dame expensive around Chicago. Very few places to go.

that turbo kit is ebay so i would suggest spend more cause that turbo kit is but like i said is up to you. FYI for a good turbo kit and to save you the time and money get a real kit which are around 3k :D

[Bluevitz-rs]

Originally Posted by weapon5

that turbo kit is ebay so i would suggest spend more cause that turbo kit is but like i said is up to you. FYI for a good turbo kit and to save you the time and money get a real kit which are around 3k :D

HAHA, wow, he's already built the turbo and is in the tuning process now.

[cali yaris]

.... make sure you are idling your motor for a minute or two before shutting it down, to let the oil cool a bit and drain. Especially if you're not using water lines to keep it cool during operation.

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

HAHA, wow, he's already built the turbo and is in the tuning process now.

Ya I guess he missed the previous 17 pages.

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Dj WaRrIoR

no prob believe me i've been through ALOOOTT i haven't even read here... just so you know i turbocharged my sedan BY MYSELF so i made ALOT of noobie mistakes like not connecting the blow-off valve to vacumm just boost but now i took out my motor and reaaallyyy build it by myself with forged internals after 2 weeks trying i cranked it up yesterday now to set the idle rpm and the break-in period and then dynoooo!!! loll

ok.. back to you... about the lil oil problem yes i bought 3 cheap turbos and they leaked a lot but it was another problem.. but doing my research, talking to ppl.. i found out a great way to eliminate that... i dont know if youll understand but it is an "oil-restrictor" have you seen a NOS jet (yes, nitrous)?? i bought a nos jet adapter 1/8 npt and bought a i think it was a 45cc jet i don really remember and that lowers the volume and oil pressure going through the turbocharger thus not pushing oil to the sides thus leaking to your hot side of the turbocharger.... you just install the adapter on either end of the oil feed line.....in other words going from a burger king straw to a chinese rest. straw looolll......let me know if you understood...

I have a 1.5mm oil restrictor on my feed line. This was recomended for a journal bearing turbo. Ball bearing turbos use 1.0mm restrictor. So I know thats not my problem. I am sure the oil seal on the hot side is leaking oil into the exhaust. I am just debating if I should buy another GT25 nock off like I have now for 240$ and take my chances. Or buy a Garret gt2554r genuine artical for 1000$. Oh ya did I mention I'm poor and for me 1000$ is a lot of FLOW!

[Bluevitz-rs]

I'd find out if there's any shaft play first. If it's fine, I'd just re+re the seals and have another go at it. It's your cheapest option.

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

I'd find out if there's any shaft play first. If it's fine, I'd just re+re the seals and have another go at it. It's your cheapest option.

I checked the shaft play when I had the downpipe off last. It was OK. I'm not sure what [re+re] means. I am assuming that is canadian secret code for replace, LOL. I would love to replace the seal. I dont know where I could get a oil seal for some chinese nock off turbo though. I could not even read the hyroglifics on the box. If you have any ideas ??? let me know.

[cali yaris]

re+re = repair and replace

[Bluevitz-rs]

Well, I'd say that if it's a GT25 knock-off chances are a seal for real GT25 would work. It'd be worth a shot if it's only a few bucks.

Oh, and my version of re+re is remove and replace.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Out of curiosity, does the turbo need to be rebalanced if the seals are replaced?

I may be looking at doing the same thing unfortunately. I've been finding oil in the coupler where my BOV is. Could be left over, but I dunno

[Yoda]

Clean it and see if it comes back

[Dj WaRrIoR]

ok about re+re it ok but the tip is to mark the position of the nut with the axle so you know till what point adjust the nut so you would hold 95% of the balance when puting it back together..i did this with a file or if you want do it with a sharpie BUT DONT ERASE IT WHILE CLEANING!! but yes buy the seals of ebay if your knock off doesnt not have water lines (hibrid) look for dry turbo rebuild kit for your specific turbocharger.. mine was to3 but i dont know yours.. but important DRY!!! NOT wet because you dont have water lines goind through.. if you do that you can get a little more out of your knock off till you get some money for a real one.. and BTW i converted a cheap knock off into a 99.9% garret.. how? well we have a shop here that changed everything except my hot housing cuz i already had the cheap flange (4 bolt) for the down pipe.. it cost me around $300 and he even converte it to garret hybrid (wet) and believe me it is a real garret allaround ! compare 1,000 to 300 !! if you want here's his email...gigitoturbo@aol.com http://stores.ebay.com/Yiyito-Turbo-Service i know it is here in puerto rico but he has an ebay account too and i know for a fact he doesn't have a problem with shipping things.. so if you are interested send him an email explaining what you have and if you have that option of converting it and for how much..

[weapon5]

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

HAHA, wow, he's already built the turbo and is in the tuning process now.

yea very late didn't know it went on this long

[pimp my yaris]

OK I finally did some work to eliminate my smoke problem on cold engine starts. The problem has been getting progressivly worse as the weather gets colder. Their has been a lot of talk about where the oil return enters the pan. I dont believe that is the problem. But I admit its a possibility. My oil return was submerged in oil in the lower part of the pan. So this weekend I removed the right side axel and relocated the return to the top of the pan above the oil level. I also switched from a 1/4npt fitting and a 3/8in hose to a more free flowing 3/8npt fitting and a 1/2in hose. The thing is huge. For sure if I continue to have a cold start smoke problem, I know it will not be the return. I have finished the work and just need to fill with fluids tomarrow after my silicone drys on my oil pan. I will also take a pic. tomarrow.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

OK I finally did some work to eliminate my smoke problem on cold engine starts. The problem has been getting progressivly worse as the weather gets colder. Their has been a lot of talk about where the oil return enters the pan. I dont believe that is the problem. But I admit its a possibility. My oil return was submerged in oil in the lower part of the pan. So this weekend I removed the right side axel and relocated the return to the top of the pan above the oil level. I also switched from a 1/4npt fitting and a 3/8in hose to a more free flowing 3/8npt fitting and a 1/2in hose. The thing is huge. For sure if I continue to have a cold start smoke problem, I know it will not be the return. I have finished the work and just need to fill with fluids tomarrow after my silicone drys on my oil pan. I will also take a pic. tomarrow.

When you say 1/2in hose, do you mean a -8 AN line? The first thing I was thinking about doing was increasing the size of the line.

Also, since we tuned the same way - are you noticing irregularities in your map? For example, now that it's cold and my IAT is hovering around 30F, I've noticed my AFRs have richened by as much as a whole point. I'm thinking colder IATs force the ECU to change the open loop maps slightly. It may not even be the IATs, but I had perfectly accurate AFRs until it got REALLY cold the last week.

[cali yaris]

pimp, you changed the location AND the size? I think it will be hard to tell which change fixed the problem.