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Old 02-08-2014, 05:50 PM   #1
Golddeenoh
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minimum Turbo'n

What are the minimum requirements to have a simple turbo set up on the Yaris?

for instance

turbo
exhaust manifold
down pipe
piping
(maybe inter-cooler)
bov/waste gate (7psi)
boost controller
boost guage
oil feed to and from turbo back to engine
Coolant lines to and from turbo
Piggy back required at minimum(and some way to connect it)
Air/Fuel Ratio gauge

anti-foulers needed(depends on tune)
ungraded injectors 1ZZ (depends on tune)

Additional Information from one of the Yaris Turbo masters:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30813
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Last edited by Golddeenoh; 02-16-2014 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:41 PM   #2
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You can't boost the car on just the stock ECU.

psi depends on the wastegate spring. You can just run the spring and not use a controller to save money. (but I don't recommend it)

You left out oil and water lines.
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:50 AM   #3
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drop the boost to about 2-3 and you can use the stock ECU... but they why have a turbo to begin with?
like Garm said
Engine management is a requirement to keep your motor safe or you will be buying a new motor not too long after that turbo is put on.
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Old 02-09-2014, 11:09 AM   #4
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Quote:
drop the boost to about 2-3 and you can use the stock ECU...
Is there a thread where someone did this?
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Old 02-09-2014, 11:18 AM   #5
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I want to say malibuguy did this on his echo (the low boost thing)
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Old 02-09-2014, 05:36 PM   #6
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there isn't much point to boosting unless there is at least 7 psi of boost, giver or take 1 psi, so the management is a must.

I updated the list to include the fluid line and managment

what about injectors and o2 sensor anti-foulers?
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Old 02-09-2014, 09:12 PM   #7
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There's only one anti-fouler, between the cats. if you are running a stock exhaust you may or may not need it.

Injectors, you have to see, as you are basically tuning the car with them. I would have 1ZZ injectors on hand to swap in.

You left off an air/fuel gauge, CRITICAL so you can monitor how your motor is running.
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEEF View Post
I want to say malibuguy did this on his echo (the low boost thing)
i ran 3.5 on my tercel completely stock EFI. The car was awesome. After I was sure of my set up, bigger injectors went in & so did the AEM...& now i'm running 16lbs...
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malibuguy View Post
i ran 3.5 on my tercel completely stock EFI. The car was awesome. After I was sure of my set up, bigger injectors went in & so did the AEM...& now i'm running 16lbs...
16# on stock internals?
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Old 02-10-2014, 11:54 PM   #10
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The Zage kit isn't a complex setup. Why not one of those or use as a model? Also need conical air filter right? Also I at a loss how an IC would be optional?
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Old 02-10-2014, 11:57 PM   #11
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Oh yeah...I never paid attention. How well does the stock exhaust piping handle 6-8psi?
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Old 02-11-2014, 02:34 PM   #12
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You can run a low-boost turbo without an intercooler. The air gets hotter (obviously) so it doesn't make as much power.

I don't recommend it, mostly because it's not THAT much more work to run an intercooler set up -- but it CAN be done.
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Old 02-11-2014, 04:59 PM   #13
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The point of the thread is to obtain a turbo set up for as cheaply as possible while still being able to drive the car every day. ideally a cheaper set up that can be expanded upon.

Zage is nice but if one would start with a basic set up t3/t4 turbo, then the expansion possibilities would be better once further funds became available.

I am under the impression that anything above 8psi will lead to a bent connecting rod. correct?

personally, I would inter-cooler, but if push comes to shove, it can be bypassed to save a few buck but lose some HP.

At some point MI will finally get a mid pipe in and stock exhaust will no longer be a problem.
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Old 02-12-2014, 02:10 PM   #14
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I think the point of the thread is being served quite well... for once.
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Old 02-12-2014, 05:39 PM   #15
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Quote:
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I think the point of the thread is being served quite well... for once.
yea, now about that mid-pipe?
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Old 02-13-2014, 01:24 AM   #16
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For the most part you aren't going to start risking rods until over 10psi, but if you have a shit tune I would think it is possible to ruin a rod. Regardless of that if you run lean all the time you could damage even at 8. It also depends on how you drive it.
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:21 AM   #17
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Hey guys remember, boost doesn't bend rods. Power and detonation does. I built my roomies xB and with a 3.5psi wastegate spring it is making more power than the stock motor should handle because it has a t3 60 trim coupled with an efficient setup. When I had my Greddy kit I needed to run 15 psi to make the same power.
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Old 02-14-2014, 05:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fnkngrv View Post
For the most part you aren't going to start risking rods until over 10psi, but if you have a shit tune I would think it is possible to ruin a rod. Regardless of that if you run lean all the time you could damage even at 8. It also depends on how you drive it.
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Hey guys remember, boost doesn't bend rods. Power and detonation does. I built my roomies xB and with a 3.5psi wastegate spring it is making more power than the stock motor should handle because it has a t3 60 trim coupled with an efficient setup. When I had my Greddy kit I needed to run 15 psi to make the same power.
hoping to use a t3/t4 Hybrid set up, probably going to have to cut on one of Garm's t25 headers to make it work for a t3 flange. so it is up to the tune and set up, not simply the psi being used.
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