Yet another 2ZR swap - Auto to Manual + CARB legal

[rpster]

Inspired by the other awesome 2ZR builds here, I was hoping for the planets to align and give me a reason to embark on this swap on my own 2007 HB. When the auto trans finally gave up the ghost at 248k miles, the door was opened. It became clear that a full rebuild of the trans was needed, I of course decided on the harder option: 2ZR swap + manual swap + make it CARB legal.

Here's what I have so far:

Donor Car

Found a manual XD at a Pick-N-Pull near me in relatively good condition that I could pull the engine, trans, mounts, harness, ecm, and associated accessories for the swaps. The longer mileage on the car necessitates some additional inspection and overhaul, but the combined cost is still less expensive than sourcing a "tested" engine/trans.

Electrical
With the XD's engine harness, there's a minimal amount of modifications needed to make the electrical work. On the engine side it's the MAF sensor (pinout is different from the Yaris). Also, a speedometer needs to be added to the XD transmission since my Yaris is non-ABS.

For the manual swap, the clutch neutral safety switch plug already exists on the harness in the footwell. Simply plug and play.

Emissions
To pass California BAR for smog, the cat must match the engine. The serial on the Yaris cat will not pass for the 2ZR, so a new cat had to be purchased. As long as the ECM matches the engine and all other emissions components are in place (fuel return, evap canister, etc), BAR guidelines will be met. CA BAR Engine Change details

A/C
Compressor and hoses are different for the 2ZR, but compatible with the hard lines and existing condensor. I didn't get a chance to discharge

Upgrades
Changing out 5th with a lower geared set for lower RPMs and swapping in an MFactory Helical LSD while I have the transmission open for inspection.

Planning & Tracking Google Docs
These docs were compiled using info found here, verifying parts fitment on sites like ToyoDIY and Amayama, and the official service manuals for each. You're welcome to track my progress and/or use as a parts reference.

2ZR Swap Tracker - Google Sheet
2ZR Swap Checklist - Google Doc

Special thanks to tmontague, brushforhire, and ArmstrongRacing for their detailed threads



Engine Out!


Brake booster removed


Floor shifter installed

[mitch9521]

Good stuff, I love the google spreadsheet ideas too, makes it easy to keep track of all the stuff you'll need without having to spend days scouring the forums lol

[sh0rtlife]

total llife saver on better compiling of the info, but the fact that you have FOUND the way to beat CARB is the real key here and the #1 thing holding me back a little, i mean ive been grabbing parts but that was the one thing in the back of my head holding me back

[rpster]

Originally Posted by sh0rtlife

total llife saver on better compiling of the info, but the fact that you have FOUND the way to beat CARB is the real key here and the #1 thing holding me back a little, i mean ive been grabbing parts but that was the one thing in the back of my head holding me back

Glad it's helping people out! AFAIK only California, Colorado, Maine and New York are the only states that adhere to CARB (if the car was sold as CARB compliant), so you may be able to save a few hundred dollars with a Federal/EPA cat in Washington

[TommyWasabi]

Subscribed!

I just picked up an '08 3dr S in MT (not Sedan, but the S with the factory front/rear lips, and side skirts) to do this very swap.

I'll be following your swap and may even reach out when I get mine started.

The Google sheets will prove to be beneficial!

[Compeer]

Sick build so far!

[rpster]

Long time, no update! Had a few vacation days and am still waiting on a few more parts to finish the engine & transmission rebuilds.

Manual Conversion Complete


Using a clutch pedal assembly picked from another manual Yaris at Pick-n-Pull, I used the bolt holes on the bracket as a template for the holes that needed to be made in the firewall. Used cobalt drill bits and a knockout punch set from harbor freight to make the holes.


Brake booster being reinstalled after the clutch master cylinder. Yes, most of the brake line connections have to be disconnected and the brake booster removed in order to have enough space to install the clutch master cylinder and the hardline coming from it. The hardline also came from Pick-n-Pull.


All brake lines reconnected to the new brake master cylinder and reservoir. Brake master cylinders/reservoirs are specific to each model based on ABS and trans. The spacing between the two circuits is different and in manual cars the clutch line system is fed from the brake fluid reservoir. I'm waiting on some tygon tubing to connect them together.

[rpster]

Lots happening, but not enough space!

Engine Overhaul

Without knowing the full history of the engine, it was necessary to at least open things up to have a look and verify there aren't any lurking issues. Luckily, there's not much to report. Very little sludge in the pan or even wear marks on the rolling surfaces, it's clear the maintenance schedule was kept up. A normal amount of carbon build-up on the runners, valves, pistons, and piston rings was found and expected on a high mileage engine. Most parts were cleaned using either engine degreaser or wd40 with scotch pads as needed.

Replacement parts:

• Timing chain and guides
• Piston rings
• Main and connecting rod bearings
• Valves, valve guides, and valve seals
• Hydraulic lash adjusters
• Head gasket and all seals
• Water pump

All valves were replaced as the old ones were too worn.


Valve springs and retainers going back in after replacing the guides and seals.


Following the factory guide on testing the hydraulic lash adjusters, I found that half of them were no longer functioning. This can happen over time as contaminants in the oil collect inside the adjusters. These were all replaced with new ones.


Cylinder walls were given a light hone just to remove the glaze, then the block was cleaned with engine degreaser and blown dry


Piston rings getting gapped


New main bearings


Crankshaft installed


Pistons dropped in


Head gasket in


Head installed. I didn't get images of the timing chain and guides being installed


Engine closed back up and accessories/hoses starting to go back on

[remcafee]

good god, you went all in with the engine build

[Compeer]

Fresh and so clean!, clean!

[mitch9521]

Hell yeah, good stuff

[rpster]

Transmission Rebuild

Goals for opening the transmission were to inspect all parts for wear, replace things as needed, and lastly upgrade to a helical LSD and change out 5th gear for lower revs when cruising. Initial inspection revealed mainly normal wear, but the synchronizer rings were all out of spec and needed to be replaced. Additionally, since I have no ABS, a speedometer needs to be added to the transmission.

The factory manual and this YouTube video series by DrivelineMaster were indispensable in doing things correctly: Toyota Manual Transaxle Overhaul



Replacement parts:

• MFactory Racing Helical LSD for C5X transmissions
• Toyota differential case bearings
• Toyota Drive Seals
• QRP 5th Gear Set - 0.725:1
• Toyota synchronizer rings
• Toyota speedometer sensor
• Toyota input shaft bearing and seal

Replacement synchrorings and toyota seal packing


MFactory Helical LSD with the ring gear and speedometer drive gear transferred from the stock diff. All Toyota diffs should already have the speedometer drive gear installed, even if a speedometer sensor is not installed on the transmission.


After fitting the differential case bearings, the diff preload must be measured. This is done by partially assembling the case with the diff in place, torquing down all bolts, then measuring how much force it takes to rotate the differential carrier. Using a 5/16" all thread rod with nuts/bolts and washers and a socket I clamped the carrier then measured the max torque needed to rotate the differential with a digital torque wrench that can go down to 0.3Nm.


Preload is set with a washer that is pressed in with one of the case bearings. Various thicknesses are available to adjust the preload.


LSD installed, with rebuilt input and output shafts.


Transaxle case installed


A new QRP 5th gear set was installed. This drops the 5th gear ratio from 0.815:1 stock to 0.725:1. Engine speed at 70mph drops from 3228rpm down to 2871rpm.


Closed up and ready to mate with the engine.

[rpster]

Electrical

Using the ECM and engine harness from a 2008 XD made this part a lot easier. Using the factory wiring diagrams for each, I verified that each pin in the 2ZR's ECM from the XD matches the A21 connector on the Yaris body harness, as well as the two connectors in the fuse box, CA1 and CA2. The only pins that didn't match are for the XD's MAF power (CA2 pin 9) and the speedometer (CA2 pins 11-13). Using extra pins from a spare connector set pulled from the junk yard, we can wire this all in OEM style.

The XD's MAF sensor needs +12V when the ignition is on. The wiring in the engine harness already exists, so it's a matter of adding the pin on the fuse box side of CA2 and providing it with power from a switched source. The speedometer mod is needed due to my Yaris not having ABS plus the manual conversion as these pins are missing on the XD engine harness.


Connector CA2 at the top left of the fuse box when viewed from the front.


The connectors pins are double locked. In addition to a release tooth next to each pin like in most modular connectors, there is a lock that must be released in order to remove/add pins. After releasing the tooth, pry up the lock using a small flat blade screwdriver and pull the pin/wire out the back.


For the MAF sensor power, I added pin 9 to the fuse box (under) side of the CA2 connector and wired it to the fused side of the EFI2 fuse. Here's the additional pin showing it's connection via tap splice to the EFI2 circuit before it's inserted into the fuse box side of the CA2 connector


For the speedometer, I added three pins for the speedometer (pins 11-13) to the harness (top) side of CA2 and spliced them to wires leading down to the speedometer sensor added to the transmission. Since my Yaris is non-ABS, this is the factory way of getting a speed signal to the dash.

[Compeer]

Awesome detective work on the loom, thats going to be sweet you will hardly be able to tell its been swapped. That gear box set up is sweet! All the top end now and that lsd tho!

[rpster]

Time to start putting this all back together and see if the past couple months of work were worth it...

Reassembly


New flywheel goes on. ARP bolts to replace the one-time use OEM ones.


Aisin clutch kit installed


New throwout bearing came with the clutch kit. Wire wheeled the throwout arm clean and applied super lube at the touch points.


Engine and transmission mounted back together


Dropped in!


The engine harness has an extra bend in it for the XD. No issue as it just tucks away


Heater lines, the fuel line, and vacuum line were from the XD. I cut up the old evap line from the 1NZ to reuse here.


I used the XD axles, one from the junkyard and another purchased new. Be sure to match the axles to the transmission/differential you're using as the splines are different.


Most of the engine bay has been reinstalled and fluids are going back in.

First Start
To prep, I pulled the EFI and EFI2 fuses to cut the fuel and ignition circuits, then cranked the engine a few times to build oil pressure. Did this until the oil pressure light went off in the dash, then reconnected the fuses to attempt a start.

https://imgur.com/lELT4GH
Super rough running and a few "too rich" codes in the scanner. Not a good first impression.


After a couple hours of checking and double checking everything related to intake, spark, and fuel, I traced it down to a malfunctioning fuel injector. Pulling the spark plugs was the smoking gun showing the ECM trying to dump way too much fuel to compensate for the bad injector. Lesson learned: don't buy untested/no-name fuel injectors. Installing a fully tested set resolved the issue.


Next step: drop the transmission again because you installed the clutch disc backwards! Heard and felt a horrible grinding sound when releasing the clutch with the engine running. The metal part of the disc and flywheel bolts were contacting before the friction material. Thankfully it was only slightly and I was able to reuse all the parts. Only lost a day of work tearing apart the engine bay and putting it all back together.

After this, I changed the oil after the first 15 mins of running, and again after the first 50 miles to remove any engine building debris.

https://imgur.com/eAhWFpt
After 150 miles, I lost the clutch suddenly in a parking lot. I must have rebuilt the slave cylinder incorrectly and the piston seal failed. Luckily these are cheap brand new and would just recommend most folks to just get a new one instead of rebuilding.


Since the original A/C system was untouched (only the compressor was unbolted from the 1NZ and zip tied to the side during the swap), I went and got it evacuated by a shop so I could then flush and clean the hardlines to install new hoses, a new compressor, and a new condenser. Filled the system with the correct amount of oil, then pulled a quick vacuum and let it sit for 20 minutes to make sure there were no leaks. Followed this up with an hour long vacuum pull to remove any residual moisture in the system. A single 12oz can of R134a is all the system needs.

Swap complete!
https://imgur.com/4rcbnPH
I'm at 400 miles in now with no issues so far. Next is to gather documentation to get the swap approved by a BAR referee.

[mitch9521]

Great work! I wonder if the Scion xD harness will play nice with a 3rd gen, never been able to get a straight answer on that. Mechanically the two generations are nearly identical but my worry is that the older Scion ECU won't play nice with the gen 3 body harness and I'd have to run some sort of piggyback setup for the engine side or standalone.

Also an acceleration video would be great. See how she gets down

Also also, what transmission did you end up using? Yaris C50 or xD C50?

[rpster]

Thanks! If you can get your hands on the wiring diagram for the 3rd gen, I can help answer that question. The biggest hurdle would be the immobilizer, which was most likely present on the 3rd gen and not on the scion. All other pins on the harnesses should match up.

I’ll drop a vid as soon as I can. I’m trying to be good and not do any WOT pulls until I hit 500 miles since the engine was rebuilt. Gotta be nice to the piston rings.

Trans is the XD C50

[mitch9521]

Originally Posted by rpster

Thanks! If you can get your hands on the wiring diagram for the 3rd gen, I can help answer that question. The biggest hurdle would be the immobilizer, which was most likely present on the 3rd gen and not on the scion. All other pins on the harnesses should match up.

I’ll drop a vid as soon as I can. I’m trying to be good and not do any WOT pulls until I hit 500 miles since the engine was rebuilt. Gotta be nice to the piston rings.

Trans is the XD C50

From what I gathered, all of the xDs in the Canadian market had immobilizers, I know my ECU definitely does since it was pulled from a 2011 or 2012. Immobilizer shouldn't be a huge deal, I have one of the keys for the Scion ECU(definitely didn't pocket it from the upull ) so if I have to tape the transponder to the barrel to get it to start until I can marry the Yaris keys to it, then so be it.