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Old 09-28-2014, 10:38 PM   #1
Gogogordy
 
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Sway bar install tips?

I will be ordering a TRD rear sway on my '11 LB, and the instructions I downloaded are a bit cryptic. Specifically the speak to backing out the shock bolt on one side but not the other.

Any install tips from those here who have installed these?

Im assuming TRD is the way to go.
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Old 09-28-2014, 10:48 PM   #2
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There's only one bolt that holds the shock to the rear beam. IIRC, the kit includes the second bolt. Basically, just jack up the rear of the car until the wheels are off the ground, get a pair of 14mm wrenches/sockets and go to town. Probably one of the easiest mods to do, but I've also done full suspension and gearbox swaps to date.
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Old 09-28-2014, 10:50 PM   #3
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My car is basicallt stock save for a TRD cat-back and wheels. Im hoping the rear sway bar just "tightens up" the handling a bit....Am I barking up the right tree? Downsides?
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Old 09-28-2014, 11:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gogogordy View Post
My car is basicallt stock save for a TRD cat-back and wheels. Im hoping the rear sway bar just "tightens up" the handling a bit....Am I barking up the right tree? Downsides?
It's the best mod u can do for a Yaris , have it on mine and its night and day difference .


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Old 09-29-2014, 03:21 AM   #5
IllusionX
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Sway bar install tips

You back up the bolt but do not pull it out so you can slide the bar in and bolt it back together.

Anyways, it is pretty much self explanatory once you start installing it.
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Old 09-29-2014, 05:20 AM   #6
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I did a short video when I installed the "Ultra Racing" one I purchased from Micro Image. It was less expensive and I am very happy with it. The TRD shouldn't be any different to install. Very easy install...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RKn7vV4fIo
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:36 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gogogordy View Post
I will be ordering a TRD rear sway on my '11 LB, and the instructions I downloaded are a bit cryptic. Specifically the speak to backing out the shock bolt on one side but not the other.

What the instructions are eluding to with that point is to loosen that bolt either from the nut side, or the head side. I can't remember which and don't know what difference it makes if you turn the head or the nut.

The first time I pulled that bolt was to install the TRD and I headed the instructions. Every time I've pulled the bolt since then I just go at it without caring which end I'm turning.


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Old 09-29-2014, 08:04 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
What the instructions are eluding to with that point is to loosen that bolt either from the nut side, or the head side. I can't remember which and don't know what difference it makes if you turn the head or the nut.

The first time I pulled that bolt was to install the TRD and I headed the instructions. Every time I've pulled the bolt since then I just go at it without caring which end I'm turning.


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The impact gun only fits the bolt side anyways. So you would not be able to loosen the bolt side anyways.
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:42 AM   #9
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Just pulled out my old instructions document. What I now believe the OP is unclear on is the following:

(b) Leave one bolt in place and back the other bolt out until flush with the shock mount.

Using left and right for example, what they are saying is remove the nut on the left side but do not move the bolt. Then on the right side, once nut is removed, slid the bolt back only to the point where it is flush with the mount. This then gives you the left side bolt to 'hang' the bar from while aligning the right side and pushing the bolt back into position.
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Old 09-29-2014, 09:14 AM   #10
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Just a lesson I learned from my TRD. The nuts are swaged, so your final tightening and torquing will happen on bolt side, lest you want to gouge the metal finish underneath the nut, or worse, strip the nut's flats and still not have it torqued enough. That's why instructions emphasize that in bold, or caps, I forget which.
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Old 09-29-2014, 01:38 PM   #11
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Anti-corrosive?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sheekeebut View Post
Just a lesson I learned from my TRD. The nuts are swaged, so your final tightening and torquing will happen on bolt side, lest you want to gouge the metal finish underneath the nut, or worse, strip the nut's flats and still not have it torqued enough. That's why instructions emphasize that in bold, or caps, I forget which.

Swaged?
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Old 09-29-2014, 01:59 PM   #12
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Swaged?
Locking ridges incorporated into the back side of the nuts.
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Old 09-29-2014, 02:47 PM   #13
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One would then infer that the provided washers go on bolt side.
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Old 09-29-2014, 02:53 PM   #14
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But by the time I realised all this, I'd tightened on the nut. Don't be dumb like me
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Old 09-29-2014, 03:30 PM   #15
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Educational sharing....school of hard knocks

Quote:
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But by the time I realised all this, I'd tightened on the nut. Don't be dumb like me

Haha, not dumb...just a trailblazer!
Thanks for the tips. I can do this....
My measure of success this way is typically based on how much blood I shed during the course of the project. Film at 11...
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Old 10-04-2014, 12:12 AM   #16
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Yee haw!

Wow...wish I had done this a long time ago. Really composed over a variety of surfaces and conditions. No regrets.
Also put some sound deadening in the spare tire cavity and what a difference there as we'll.
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Old 01-02-2015, 11:55 AM   #17
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So because I'm a little bit lazy and didn't feel like crawling around the asphalt parking lot, I asked two places near my apartment how much they would charge to lift up my car, undo two bolts, put in the TRD sway bar, fasten four bolts, and put the lift back down. Sounds to me like 15 minutes at most. Both places said hour, hour and a half. JFC! In an hour, hour and a half, I am sure can do this myself laying in the dirt.
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Old 01-02-2015, 01:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gogogordy View Post
My car is basicallt stock save for a TRD cat-back and wheels. Im hoping the rear sway bar just "tightens up" the handling a bit....Am I barking up the right tree? Downsides?
No downside. And install is a no-brainer.
Toyota should have added it in manufacturing. Best bang for the buck you can do. Improved safety and 'put a smile on your face' handling improvement.
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