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Old 12-27-2020, 03:34 AM   #19
RomanDave
 
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 52
Thanks for the posts, Zedicus!

I'm planning on doing this soon but with aftermarket ECU and some ITB.

Prior to reading this I would have been caught off gaurd about the sump swap, but managed to get one in advance.

I've seen big power gain just from ECU and intake swap on a standard 2NZ, so looking forward to what a high comp 1500cc setup is capable of with a good tune.

It's amazing how much the standard plenum and throttle body is a huge bottleneck on these engines.
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Old 12-28-2020, 11:30 PM   #20
remcafee
 
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3 door
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 399
how does it run with stock ecu? any drivability issues? no check engine light on? i am very interested in doing this
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Old 02-07-2021, 10:27 PM   #21
ccyaris
 
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 3 Door 5 S
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Pasadena
Posts: 25
Great effort and success and nice writeup, I was looking at replacing my mechanical water pump with ePump and noticed that the C blocks were different, which leads me to your post, thanks
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Old 03-15-2021, 03:48 PM   #22
Zedicus
 
Drives: scion xb
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: SW KS
Posts: 26
1 year on update:

car runs really good, no check engine lights or any issues...EXCEPT!

The stage 1 EXEDY clutch is absolutely TOAST. on 3/14/2021 i pulled the trans and replaced the exedy with a McLeod Street Elite. i wish i would have taken pictures but i was in a borrowed garage and just did not have time. The exedy disk surface was not too bad but had been very hot, the hub and springs were trashed. the springs had been stomped mercilessly and were crushed and nearly falling out of the housing. even the splines in the hub showed significant wear. the pressure plate had gotten hot enough to deform and cause the through out bearing to ride and groove it. THANK HEAVENS i had put a fidanza flywheel in last time, it had gotten warm but was still fine.

if you do a similar engine build rather it is complete prius, or prius rotating assembly you MUST get a GOOD clutch. the EXEDY stage 1 is rated for +30% HP over stock and it slipped almost instantly. i nursed it and got almost 1 year out of it. the new McLeod clutch makes the car feel amazing, 2nd gear chirps the tires just messing around, first gear makes me wish i would have put an LSD in it while it was apart. the McLeod is rated for +50% to 70% more HP, has a massive hub and spline area, and much higher clamp load. there is a little more clutch feel at the peddle, if that bothers you, well too bad.

after the last couple months of nursing the clutch, the little toaster is exciting to drive again. watch out CIVICs, the streets are MINE.

NOTE: due to location, mostly it is guys in diesel pickups that always want to race me.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RomanDave View Post
Thanks for the posts, Zedicus!

I'm planning on doing this soon but with aftermarket ECU and some ITB.

Prior to reading this I would have been caught off gaurd about the sump swap, but managed to get one in advance.

I've seen big power gain just from ECU and intake swap on a standard 2NZ, so looking forward to what a high comp 1500cc setup is capable of with a good tune.

It's amazing how much the standard plenum and throttle body is a huge bottleneck on these engines.
with the slipping clutch i have avoided doing ANYTHING that might increase HP more. Now that the clutch is fixed i will be doing an intake and exhaust sometime this summer. and hopefully i can make it to a dyno in Denver. i am going to play dumb and when it shows 130hp to the wheels or something crazy for a 1NZ i will just nod and say cool, and drive off.

Last edited by Zedicus; 03-15-2021 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 03-15-2021, 04:01 PM   #23
Zedicus
 
Drives: scion xb
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: SW KS
Posts: 26
i should probably mention that the EWP cools SIGNIFICANTLY more than the stock mechanical water pump. i have the majority of the frond air grill blocked off with plexi glass and when we had our subzero winter days it was still all the little engine could do to keep 160 degrees in it.

we did have a 100 degree day last summer but i did not get out on the highway, i did drive around town with the air-conditioner running and did not experience any overheating. i still have the 1 OEM fan in place and it is still connected to the ECU, so it kicks on at 205. but even getting to 205 BARELY ever happens.


also, with premium gas, my MPG is around 36 in town...when i can behave. so about the same MPG as my motorcycle.
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Old 03-27-2021, 01:21 PM   #24
speedworxs
 
Drives: |Mr2
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 55
the concerns about the fxe low tension rings, no extra oil usage?
factory ecu runs it fine? must run premium (not a big deal)

i found a low mileage fxe at an auction, and figured shortblock , cam swap would be all i need
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Old 01-23-2023, 05:43 PM   #25
TheTruckster
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Drives: Scion xB
Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1
Very interesting write up. If you pick up a piggyback timing calibrator you can run the FXE intake cam. In fact, you could possibly use 2 FXE intake cams!

Now hear me out. On the intake side, advance the cam by one tooth on the sprocket.

On the exhaust side, a second intake cam should fit in the journals and the exhaust sprocket. Obviously the timing mark will be wildly off, so you’ll have to experiment. But IIRC, it’s +/- 11 teeth.
I don’t recall if the FXE intake cam has more lift. But the duration is something like 270 degrees. That’s better than the Scion/Echo or Yaris cams. Go price a new FXE intake cam from your local dealer.

Now, back to the piggyback timing calibrator…..probably the most expensive part, if you don’t have one already.
Anyway, just retard static ignition timing by 20 degrees. That’s all it takes to eliminate the Atkinson cycle.
If you’re worried about the piston rings? Then maybe look into a Total Seal ring package.

BTW, Toyota achieves the Atkinson cycle on all their hybrids the exact same way.
Therefore, 2zr swappers can use their hybrid variant cams too.
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Old 02-07-2023, 01:45 PM   #26
Compeer
 
Drives: NCP90 TRD Yaris Manual
Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 260
Cool build and great that you are fixing it up and returning her to the road!
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Old 02-27-2023, 01:05 AM   #27
J_Shabang
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Drives: 04 xB
Join Date: Feb 2023
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 1
Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zedicus View Post
1 year on update:

car runs really good, no check engine lights or any issues...EXCEPT!

The stage 1 EXEDY clutch is absolutely TOAST. on 3/14/2021 i pulled the trans and replaced the exedy with a McLeod Street Elite. i wish i would have taken pictures but i was in a borrowed garage and just did not have time. The exedy disk surface was not too bad but had been very hot, the hub and springs were trashed. the springs had been stomped mercilessly and were crushed and nearly falling out of the housing. even the splines in the hub showed significant wear. the pressure plate had gotten hot enough to deform and cause the through out bearing to ride and groove it. THANK HEAVENS i had put a fidanza flywheel in last time, it had gotten warm but was still fine.

if you do a similar engine build rather it is complete prius, or prius rotating assembly you MUST get a GOOD clutch. the EXEDY stage 1 is rated for +30% HP over stock and it slipped almost instantly. i nursed it and got almost 1 year out of it. the new McLeod clutch makes the car feel amazing, 2nd gear chirps the tires just messing around, first gear makes me wish i would have put an LSD in it while it was apart. the McLeod is rated for +50% to 70% more HP, has a massive hub and spline area, and much higher clamp load. there is a little more clutch feel at the peddle, if that bothers you, well too bad.

after the last couple months of nursing the clutch, the little toaster is exciting to drive again. watch out CIVICs, the streets are MINE.

NOTE: due to location, mostly it is guys in diesel pickups that always want to race me.




with the slipping clutch i have avoided doing ANYTHING that might increase HP more. Now that the clutch is fixed i will be doing an intake and exhaust sometime this summer. and hopefully i can make it to a dyno in Denver. i am going to play dumb and when it shows 130hp to the wheels or something crazy for a 1NZ i will just nod and say cool, and drive off.
Do you still have this xB? I have one and would really like to follow in your footsteps. Could I use the 1NZ-FE block with the FXE cylinder head and pistons?
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Old 06-01-2023, 03:28 PM   #28
Zedicus
 
Drives: scion xb
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: SW KS
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Shabang View Post
Do you still have this xB? I have one and would really like to follow in your footsteps. Could I use the 1NZ-FE block with the FXE cylinder head and pistons?
it is still my daily. i did get some bad gas on a trip to denver and it caused some overheating and detonation and hurt the middle 2 pistons a little bit. but even with the internal damage i have still been driving it.


sorry all, i am not on here much but i will post some info about things i have been asked momentarily.


NOTE: the FXE valve springs are SOFTER, you will get VALVE FLOAT at 6100RPM or there abouts. use aftermarket or at least the Yaris ones. VALVE FLOAT IS BAD WITH VVT OPEN!!!

NOTE2: i had some questions about the ARP studs. hopefully you all figured it out, if not here is what i can say. if you are using ANY OEM cam, they will hit somewhere. and there are some different VVTI solenoids, some hit, some do not. basically you have to install the studs and see what hits and trim what needs trimmed. it is a long process.

Last edited by Zedicus; 06-01-2023 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 06-01-2023, 03:33 PM   #29
Zedicus
 
Drives: scion xb
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: SW KS
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedworxs View Post
the concerns about the fxe low tension rings, no extra oil usage?
factory ecu runs it fine? must run premium (not a big deal)

i found a low mileage fxe at an auction, and figured shortblock , cam swap would be all i need
no extra oil usage.

yes, factory ECU works fine, though if you get garbage gas it can not pull enough time to keep detonation from happening.

remember the lower engine case is different and will also need swapped to the Scion/Yaris motor type. and you will still only be able to mount 7 of the 9 transmission bolts. mine has ran like this fine for a long time now.
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Old 06-01-2023, 03:35 PM   #30
Zedicus
 
Drives: scion xb
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: SW KS
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by remcafee View Post
how does it run with stock ecu? any drivability issues? no check engine light on? i am very interested in doing this
my only code was for removing the power steering. i finally made a fake pressure sensor to account for the power steering line removal and now i am code free.
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