NCP90 Rear Drum to Disc swap

[Neinris]

Originally Posted by Compeer

I looked at it but the brake line doesnt have much room and still goes over the top of it and the brake line was a bit tight when I shoved it down that side to see how it would fit, I think you need a 2-3cm longer hose?

As you already know, my disc brake conversion is underway. I already have all the hardware necessary to complete the conversion, minus the materials for the brackets. But I'm looking into replacing the brake line from the hard line under the chassis to the caliper with one rubber hose, instead of transitioning from hardline to rubber hose, to hardline, to rubber hose connected to the caliper. This could give me the opportunity to reroute them, and just remove the brackets that hits the frame.

[sh0rtlife]

FWIW i remember something about not ever wanting a "flexible" brake line longer than 15? inches due to "swell" under pressure, and anything that long MUST be braided, with that said i have done up to 23 if memory serves on a 4wd conversion ford van

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by Neinris

As you already know, my disc brake conversion is underway. I already have all the hardware necessary to complete the conversion, minus the materials for the brackets. But I'm looking into replacing the brake line from the hard line under the chassis to the caliper with one rubber hose, instead of transitioning from hardline to rubber hose, to hardline, to rubber hose connected to the caliper. This could give me the opportunity to reroute them, and just remove the brackets that hits the frame.

I think like Short says it needs the new hard brake line made up, I think it would be easier, just move the bracket on each side and have a new line made at a brake shop should not cost to much.

[sh0rtlife]

Originally Posted by Compeer

I think like Short says it needs the new hard brake line made up, I think it would be easier, just move the bracket on each side and have a new line made at a brake shop should not cost to much.

again FWIW making hardlines is EASY and dirt cheep, even easier if you have the OE fittings cut from an old set of lines..at that point all you need is the right length of line and a a lil time with a flair tool....ive made countless amounts of line over the years, get a cheep flair tool and a few feet of line cut the ends off and flair repeate till you understand what your doing..after that making your line will take only a few moments

[Neinris]

Originally Posted by sh0rtlife

FWIW i remember something about not ever wanting a "flexible" brake line longer than 15? inches due to "swell" under pressure, and anything that long MUST be braided, with that said i have done up to 23 if memory serves on a 4wd conversion ford van

I see why that section in the rear is broken into hard line, rubber hose, hard line, then rubber hose again, to shorten the rubber hose length.

The slight swelling under pressure is what I was banking so you'd get less pressure in the rear for your rear disc conversion.

I'm keeping the hard line in between the two rubber hoses that I have, but I'll straighten the hardline, to extend it a bit and be able to tuck the rubber hose and not use the original bracket so it won't hit the frame.

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by Neinris

I see why that section in the rear is broken into hard line, rubber hose, hard line, then rubber hose again, to shorten the rubber hose length.

The slight swelling under pressure is what I was banking so you'd get less pressure in the rear for your rear disc conversion.

I'm keeping the hard line in between the two rubber hoses that I have, but I'll straighten the hardline, to extend it a bit and be able to tuck the rubber hose and not use the original bracket so it won't hit the frame.

chop the original bracket off and weld it on inside instead of the top, theres a thread on here I read where they did this. Not sure if they got new hardlines made.

[Neinris]

Originally Posted by Compeer

chop the original bracket off and weld it on inside instead of the top, theres a thread on here I read where they did this. Not sure if they got new hardlines made.

That's exactly what I had planned on doing, but my buddy (who made the plate for my disc conversion) can't make it to help me this weekend to install the disc conversion. He has a welder, but he lives an hour away, I'm too lazy to grab it during the weekday. I'll probably end up just riveting the brackets in place.

I bought the stock hard lines supposedly for the Yaris SE, PN 47324-52100 & 47323-52110. But having a shop make them would probably have been cheaper.
Well, at least I can use them to mock up about where to put the rear most brackets before I straighten them out a bit to stretch them to reach the bracket that will be relocated.

Are the TRD springs that much softer than the Tein's? Or I guess it's just the angle of your pic that makes it look closer to the frame vs mine?

https://i.gyazo.com/f57e63f36c345af0...1ca6874b7a.jpg

https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/at...1&d=1615157532

https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/at...1&d=1615157532

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by Neinris

That's exactly what I had planned on doing, but my buddy (who made the plate for my disc conversion) can't make it to help me this weekend to install the disc conversion. He has a welder, but he lives an hour away, I'm too lazy to grab it during the weekday. I'll probably end up just riveting the brackets in place.

I bought the stock hard lines supposedly for the Yaris SE, PN 47324-52100 & 47323-52110. But having a shop make them would probably have been cheaper.
Well, at least I can use them to mock up about where to put the rear most brackets before I straighten them out a bit to stretch them to reach the bracket that will be relocated.

Are the TRD springs that much softer than the Tein's? Or I guess it's just the angle of your pic that makes it look closer to the frame vs mine?

https://i.gyazo.com/f57e63f36c345af0...1ca6874b7a.jpg

https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/at...1&d=1615157532

https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/at...1&d=1615157532

the tein are softer but also its the Flex Z so I I can shorten front and rear shock absorbers to match the ride height, So yeah the shocks are shorter even than my short trd shocks which I believe are shorter than stock as well.

Honestly there is a guy selling a set of cusco coilovers second hand and i kinda wanna get them, the fronts are stiffer but the rears are the same as tein, I could sell the flexz set then maybe, would have some decent track shocks and the tiens for the road. Just need to get my guy certified and plated for adjustables. If I buy the cusco i may even just swap the springs depending on how worn they are. Also do you run spacers? Plan to buy some so i can stop slight inner tire rub, Im thinking 3-5mm will do they only just touch full lock.

[Neinris]

Originally Posted by Compeer

the tein are softer but also its the Flex Z so I I can shorten front and rear shock absorbers to match the ride height, So yeah the shocks are shorter even than my short trd shocks which I believe are shorter than stock as well.

Honestly there is a guy selling a set of cusco coilovers second hand and i kinda wanna get them, the fronts are stiffer but the rears are the same as tein, I could sell the flexz set then maybe, would have some decent track shocks and the tiens for the road. Just need to get my guy certified and plated for adjustables. If I buy the cusco i may even just swap the springs depending on how worn they are. Also do you run spacers? Plan to buy some so i can stop slight inner tire rub, Im thinking 3-5mm will do they only just touch full lock.

Yeah, I thought you had the Flex Z's, but why did you go with the TRD? You can play with the Flex Z's preload without messing with the height ride. Oh but I guess you can't on the rear?

I'm on the Tein's S Tech lowering springs, I guess they're stiffer than the Flex Z's, but still comfortable. So I didn't really feel that the brake line brackets were hitting the frame until it was mentioned here. I haven't replaced my rear shocks yet, still stock. I'm planning on replacing them with Bilstein B8s. So that might even help with the brackets not hitting the frame, but I'll go ahead and relocate them when I complete the rear disc conversion this weekend. The front struts are already B8s, and what a difference they make. I still have to trim the bump stop, I only feel them bottoming out when I'm going 70+MPH on the freeway and hitting a bump. I've ridden in cousin's 370Z, and I feel that my Dee Dee is still more comfortable.

I'm not on any spacers, what's your wheel's stats? My wheels are from Mini Cooper, 15x5.5in 45 offset. I don't feel nor see any rubbing up front. Although, with the disc conversion I'm doing, the rear wheels' track will widen by 1/4in (6.35mm) on each side, meaning they will be 1.35mm (2.7mm total) wider than the front.
With my recent discovery, I'm pursuing the 5x114.3 PCD, and put Skyline R32 wheels, which are 16x8 30 offset.
If anyone here does it before me, give me credit...
But I think it's been done over seas...

[remcafee]

flex zs are stiffer than s tech springs, the flex zs are 4ksprings front and rear

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by Neinris

Yeah, I thought you had the Flex Z's, but why did you go with the TRD? You can play with the Flex Z's preload without messing with the height ride. Oh but I guess you can't on the rear?

I'm on the Tein's S Tech lowering springs, I guess they're stiffer than the Flex Z's, but still comfortable. So I didn't really feel that the brake line brackets were hitting the frame until it was mentioned here. I haven't replaced my rear shocks yet, still stock. I'm planning on replacing them with Bilstein B8s. So that might even help with the brackets not hitting the frame, but I'll go ahead and relocate them when I complete the rear disc conversion this weekend. The front struts are already B8s, and what a difference they make. I still have to trim the bump stop, I only feel them bottoming out when I'm going 70+MPH on the freeway and hitting a bump. I've ridden in cousin's 370Z, and I feel that my Dee Dee is still more comfortable.

I'm not on any spacers, what's your wheel's stats? My wheels are from Mini Cooper, 15x5.5in 45 offset. I don't feel nor see any rubbing up front. Although, with the disc conversion I'm doing, the rear wheels' track will widen by 1/4in (6.35mm) on each side, meaning they will be 1.35mm (2.7mm total) wider than the front.
With my recent discovery, I'm pursuing the 5x114.3 PCD, and put Skyline R32 wheels, which are 16x8 30 offset.
If anyone here does it before me, give me credit...
But I think it's been done over seas...

The car came with all the trd stuff installed. I put them back in for warrant of fitness, Adjustible suspension requires ceritifcation and I get also get seats and other things certed for it at the same time so need to sort seats and then go and get the car certifed and plated (they install a plate in the engine bay stating mods are legal).

Originally Posted by remcafee

flex zs are stiffer than s tech springs, the flex zs are 4ksprings front and rear

The cusco ones came with 5k front and 3.3k rear, If the springs fit thats still cheaper than the new set of springs for the tiens and if the cusco set is good can use that with just tien rear springs as ther cuscos are supposed to be for touring as well as fast street and supposed to be stiffer feeling.



Tein Spring set, looks like thinner diameter.



And the cusco set looks chunkier in the front for sure.

[sh0rtlife]

i hate the fact you can find this stuff used.......

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by sh0rtlife

i hate the fact you can find this stuff used.......

If it was not used I would never be able to afford it to be honest and I search a LOT and I find almost nothing, I just always share it when I do find something haha

[sh0rtlife]

something thats been on my mind alot latey is the gen1 scion has a HUGE following..and alot of the stuf is the same from/for the yaris...are the struts?..i see them pop up all the time reasonably priced..id bet the spring rates arnt the same due to a lil extra weight but thats not the concern

[Neinris]

Originally Posted by sh0rtlife

something thats been on my mind alot latey is the gen1 scion has a HUGE following..and alot of the stuf is the same from/for the yaris...are the struts?..i see them pop up all the time reasonably priced..id bet the spring rates arnt the same due to a lil extra weight but thats not the concern

Looking at the pics from RockAuto, the struts are different. The steering knuckle's mounting holes for the 1st GEN xB angles out, while the Yaris' are vertical.

I don't know what your goal is? Were you planning on using the xB1's strut in your Yaris or vise versa?

[sh0rtlife]

Originally Posted by Neinris

Looking at the pics from RockAuto, the struts are different. The steering knuckle's mounting holes for the 1st GEN xB angles out, while the Yaris' are vertical.

I don't know what your goal is? Were you planning on using the xB1's strut in your Yaris or vise versa?

i find performance XB parts pretty much every week and reasonably priced and useualy reasonably local......meanwhile finding performance yaris stuff means looking outside the country and bending over for shipping costs

so yeah im looking for alternatives

[Neinris]

Originally Posted by sh0rtlife

i find performance XB parts pretty much every week and reasonably priced and useualy reasonably local......meanwhile finding performance yaris stuff means looking outside the country and bending over for shipping costs

so yeah im looking for alternatives

If you're trying to put xB1 suspension on the Yaris, you might have to put xB1 steering knuckles on the Yaris as well. I don't know how much you'd save, you'd need the steering knuckles, bearings, and hubs. And I don't know if the xB1 knuckles would work on the Yaris.

I'm extremely happy with my Tein S. Tech lowering springs and Bilstein B8 struts combo. And I've still yet to replace the rear shocks, they're still stock.
Some have used the Megan Racing lowering springs with the Bilstein B8 and have been very happy. The Megan Racing springs are softer than the Tein's.

Do you plan to track your car? If you do, check out what the regulations are.

[sh0rtlife]

nah no track time but i do find myself up in the hill hooning HARD and the stock suspension is pushed to its limits, the kicker is i need something progressive rate and idealy an adjustable shock/strut so i can dial it in to my driving style...sure at the end of the day its not my alfa alfetta sprint gt or GTV6 but id like to get it dialed in further...funny enough im not looking to lower it in the slightest, specificaly because of those mountain roads some of the dips allready tap the chins on the ground...so losing clearance is NOT an option

gotta be able to "stick" the corners even if theres bumps n dips..