bag of rocks sound below 2500rpm gone above

[sh0rtlife]

Originally Posted by remcafee

ill stop you right there, that is not a toyota bolt, something dpesnt make sense, has anyone worked on the motor internally before? that bolt is definitely not factory, theres more to the story here i bet, someone had to of been inside of that engine before

how do you figure its not a toyota bolt?..the lack of captured washer is my bet....and that was found IN THE PAN along with the matching bolt..in neer similar condition except not polished and worn enough to let go of the captured washer..but worn neerly identicly just not bad enough to let go of the washer

also...NO ONE has EVER been in the engine..wife bought it new..it had only been shaken down after coming off the boat and its ALWAYS rattled...and shes been told various excuses as to why....no dealer ever even had it long enough to crack it open...and outside of quick oilchanges no one besides the dealer and me have ever turned a wrench on it....i know its ENTIRE life history

i should ad that this was when the canadian dealers couldnt keep em in stock...she was on a waiting list for ones coming in.....and had 3 choices of what was on the next boat that wasnt pre sold, red auto, white 5spd, or the blue auto....she took the blue auto and recieved it about a few weeks later when it showed up



ill have more pics tommaro...and ill get you the vin..as well as more pics of what came out in the pan and several flushes

[sh0rtlife]

Originally Posted by Compeer

get yourself a thread repair kit and you can drill and put thread repair inserts in, Glad its not the bottom end bro thats the main thing all of this stuff is easy compared to having to find a new motor.

I can't believe Toyota never put a stethoscope on the engine to listen for where the rattle was, below 2.5k rpm rattle is a dead giveaway to chain tensioner problems. My mechanic friend who taught me to swing a wrecnh shown me how to use a large screw driver as a stethoscope by placing the handle end agaisnt your ear and the other end agaisnt where ever you think the rattle is and listen while it runs, you can narrow it down a lot before you start. Worth remembing if you have a rattle in the future.

honestly the rattle was "inconsitent" at best at lower milage...and if you think about a guide being "not tight" and slowly getting looser and looser with milage, but the tensioner is always taking up the slack, its going to present as a vvt sticking a lil on a cold start...in fact thats what ive ALWAYS assumed it was..as it would happen cold but never really did it hot IE when it would have some pressure built up

basicly right up untill the last bolt walked out of the block, between the VVT adjusting for the slack and the adjuster taking up the slack it was holding the "majority" of the rattle at bay...and after that last bolt walked out it pushed the guide into the block, to which the adjuster could still maintain to some extent..it wasnt untill the block got worn and the adjuster both wore down and snapped an end off that the adjuster couldnt compensate and the rattle became a full time deal below 2500rpm...befor e that point the rattle would never last more than a few mins after warm up on the worst days..and would useualy quiet out after a couple second hot..so everything pointed to just a weird VVT or exhaust rattle...hell i steth'd it a few times and deemed it to a minor VVT issue

between the crank pots blowing.....sign 1, then pulling a crank pot with shavings on it(less than 1000 miles) sign 2 and then ratlle constant below 2500rpm sign 3..it was obvious something had let go..but honestly i still figured it was a VVT issue

[sh0rtlife]

next round of pic's....


this my friends is the contents of the oil pan....yeah....
ad you can see theres the other matching bolt with captured washer, as well as some guide chunks..and ALOT more glitter




this shop towel was used as a "strainer" to drain the remaining oil off the pan...note thats all that glitter not just camera sparkle




this is the results of the "drained" pan...a nice BIG chunk of guide...i checked and yet it snapped off ....its not "worn" off the guide its genuinely snapped off, probably chain slap as well as clear shots of shaving content, and guide bits






yeah its a BIG chunk of steel from the guide



just touching this stuff leaves ya covered is sparkles LOL



whats that in the pickup?...more guide chunks




more shop towel catchings...this is what came out of the pickup





a "settled" shot of pan crap



here we have out matching missing bolt...again polished to a mirror worn and grooved, but has "just" enough base threads to hang onto the captured washer....my assumption is that was the "last" bolt to go based on thread count and lesser damage...it would have had the tensioner helping it maintain

[sh0rtlife]

more?...yes MORE

heres the "wash out" of the pan caught and filtered...some of the bits are pretty big....i do hope the crank/cam bearings are reasonably ok







i figured id can opener the oil filter and see what may have been getting thru...honestly the amount of material found in the valve cover was exceptionaly miniscule so i belive that wix filter was doing a hell of a job ...either that or oil flow was keeping it from "settling" in the head






heres the pan after a few flushes...not much coming out

[sh0rtlife]

currently ive flushed it out with the same re-filtered oil and engine flush as well as ATF about 6 times, the last time i pulled the pan off the glitter was not enough to worry about but if im going to button it up i want as much floating shit out...ZERO magnetic bits remain to be found...ive hosed the internals with kersosen based parts washer stuff, and hosed the oil pump, pickup and everything i could spray when the pan was off with brake clean..untill nothing came out....all "pieces" are accounted for

ive sprayed out the pickup every 3rd flush when i drop the pan to see if anything shows up and nothing noteable..and minimal shavings...not enough to really worry about...in fact nothing anyone would notice without dropping the pan

tommaro ill be changing the filter again and cutting it open but as of right now i belive its as clean as it can get..regardless ill be putting a round of cheap oil in it again and giving it 1500 miles then doing an oil change and likely re-drop he pan..after that ill go back to the good stuff

wifes shocked..not just by the damage but i had it idling on the lift and shes NEVER heard the car this quiet..except for the first couple weeks after she drove it off the dealers lot

[sh0rtlife]

Originally Posted by remcafee

whats your vin number?

here ya go

[remcafee]

Originally Posted by sh0rtlife

here ya go

thats very strange, it shows your car has never been serviced at a dealer and all 3 recalls have not been completed, i was trying to search if there was any delivery issues with it before i twas sold, that woukd tell me right away if the car has been messed with PRIOR to being bought, it happens from time to time
https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/at...1&d=1678993695

[sh0rtlife]

thats hilarious, i know my wife has records of the dealer service stuff stashed somewhere..maybe in the safe...they would send her a "your car is due for X" or come in for a free oil change etc and she did every thing she got sent

the "airbag" stuff wasnt sent to us till well after the warranty was up...and we were in the middle of legally importing both her and the car to the states so it was laid up for about a year as we had to learn what needed to be done to do it..as well as the fact we had to wait on her greencard etc.....so the bag/snail recall wasnt important

at this point ive replaced the snail with the correct "updated" post recall part, so thats been done..the passenger bag hasnt..nor has the "tire load sticker" which...is laughable

what was the other recall..something that was caught early on something to do with the seat spring?.....i know the dealer did do something with the seat on one of her dealer runs

hell at one time someone broke into the car and the dealer replaced the driver window...and yet you found no record of that even

course being a canadian car maybe the dealer network isnt tied in very well?


ive torn open countless makes and models of engines over the decades and its pretty obvious when an engine has been "previously opened"..unless no sealant was used on anything...but even then useualy slight misalignment of covers will have an oil stained tale tale sign of being opened....on "sealant" engines youll either find scrapes from previous stipping of sealant, pry marks, or mismatched shades of "old vs new" sealant......im 110% positive no ones EVER opened it up..its possible the VC has been off but i doubt even that

would it help if i could provide what dealer did the services?..i know all the dealer stuff is in the glove box along with the manuals n such...

[remcafee]

thats strange, i can access any toyota dealer records, canada i cluded ive done it before but nothing shows up for yours, very weird, depending on how far you want to go, contact toyota and explain to them the issue it has been having and what you found, say the dealer refused to investigtae the problem and now your engine is in need more repairs than what could of happened. thats very frustrating!

[sh0rtlife]

Originally Posted by remcafee

thats strange, i can access any toyota dealer records, canada i cluded ive done it before but nothing shows up for yours, very weird, depending on how far you want to go, contact toyota and explain to them the issue it has been having and what you found, say the dealer refused to investigtae the problem and now your engine is in need more repairs than what could of happened. thats very frustrating!

thats basicly the plan, i mean 110k miles is NOTHING for these engines, but with the damage done..i truely dont expect the bearings to last at this point...time will tell sure, but toyota is clearly at fault....id love to have them comp me an engine, but id be suprised if they even covered expense of the parts i put into it...all said it really needs a crank with the damage the sensor wheel took..and thats a non replaceable part without a full crank swap..and you dont go swaping a crank without replacing all the bearings..at which point you may as well rebuild the entire engine

with the run time ive had on the lift doing flushes not once has it thrown a code at me...nor has it made even the slightest hint of any noises....and its now run for a few hours at about 10-15 mins at a time

took the pan off this morning after letting it sit all night after a full warm up..and what was in the pan was minimal enough...tossed in a old hard drive magnet under the pickup and ran it for 2 more flushes...no metalic bits only a few miniscule aluminum glitter bits....

so ive wiped it all down and sealed it up....pending the sealant curing ill get it off the lift tonight and out tommaro

while i was in there i also swapped the 1.8 rolla TB with zero issue

[sh0rtlife]

ive had it out of the shop for a few hours, runs like a swiss watch, smoother and quieter than it ever has been even under load....quite honestly im shocked at how well it runs now, its not the rattly vibrator it has always been...and the car had about 30k miles on it when i met my wife..so ive personaly known the car since almost new...its NEVER been this good

at 1500 miles im going to do another oilchange and flush..ill also drop the pan again and see if theres any suprises...i left a hard drive magnet in there to catch anything metalic

still tho in the back of my mind im never going to trust how much life is left in ALL of the bearing surfaces as i know shits been circulating for a very very long time

[komichal]

I just want to mention that I am watching this thread with great interest, it has some really nice plot twists...
Thanks sh0rtlife for all the details and pictures, although I am sure I will never dig into the egnine I still appreciate the knowledge I gained, at least theoretically. :)

[sh0rtlife]

Originally Posted by komichal

I just want to mention that I am watching this thread with great interest, it has some really nice plot twists...
Thanks sh0rtlife for all the details and pictures, although I am sure I will never dig into the egnine I still appreciate the knowledge I gained, at least theoretically. :)

honestly is probably a 1 in a million shot of some guy on the engine assy line simply not torquing the bolts...tho imo theres 2 things toyota SHOULD have done
#1 "full length bolts".....with a neer bottom out full length bolt they can only walk out so far before they will hit the cover..at which point they would have to "wear" thru before they ever failed...and woudl probably make even more noise rattling on teh cover..but it would be OBVIOUS as to what the problem was

#2 thread lock the bolts...a locked thread aint moving

its going to be very stressfull and curious to see how long the bearings hold out after soooooooo much crap has been in the oil...tho honestly with the filter seemingly keeping it all together...i suspect the biggest item to have gotten the extra wear is going to have been the oil pump...tho i did wash a TON of it off the head...tho how much was carried up by the chain?....

the big "tattle tale" tho is that the VVT was FULL of shit...which tells me its all been in the oil system

all said..im beating on it like a rented mule...if its going to act up or show ugly i would much rather have it do it sooner rather than later

and i keep getting tie spin soo..WOOOHOO more power