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12-04-2008, 11:12 PM | #19 |
Audio Junky
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bondo is not strong... and chips easily.... The bondo brand isn't very good either.... Highly recommend other brands.
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12-04-2008, 11:21 PM | #20 |
Beast
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fiber glass is a bitch =(
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One you've taken a yaris for a spin, there's no turning back. Its a Chao!!! |
12-04-2008, 11:24 PM | #21 |
Bathroom + Laptop = <3
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RAGE Gold > Bondo
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12-04-2008, 11:24 PM | #22 |
Audio Junky
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12-05-2008, 12:04 AM | #23 |
I used to have 1700 posts
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that actually could be one of the worst DIY's i have ever seen. he really only got descriptive about getting bubbles out, but it does give me inspiration to attempt it myself
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12-05-2008, 12:34 AM | #24 |
Banned
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Same LOL
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12-05-2008, 01:03 AM | #25 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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sure, why not try it? I think the suggestion to play with some fiberglass first is a good one, you'll save money practising.
PLEASE work in a well-ventilated area.
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
12-06-2008, 12:06 AM | #26 |
Drives: classic mini, fiat mirafiori Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Casa Grande, AZ
Posts: 9
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I've been watching this tread over the last couple days so thought I would just add a couple thoughts of my own. As some know I work with carbon almost everyday, both molding and overlays, and if you are going to try something in carbon I would start with the overlay. I've seen a number of people do successful overlays right off but would highly recommend starting with something very simple and flat like a fuel door. It seems as though everyone is talking about using epoxy, and though I would definitely recommend epoxy or vinyl ester for molded parts, I personally don't recommend it for overlays. One problem is that it takes longer, will yellow in the sun unless proper steps are taken, and is quite pricey. For overlay I would suggest using a good polyester resin with built in UV inhibitors. The carbon on an overlay really isn't for structural purposes so poly works just fine. Make sure to have a little surfacing wax for the top coat and plenty of sand paper to smooth the part. If anyone is set on trying your own part I would be happy to provide a few more pointers.
Don't try starting off with something like this R35 skyline part or Garms center console, you'll drive yourself mad. |
12-06-2008, 12:47 AM | #27 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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LOL, or the next batch of stuff I'm sending you
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
12-06-2008, 02:10 AM | #28 |
Banned
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Thanks for the tip Rogue!
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12-06-2008, 08:02 AM | #29 |
Bathroom + Laptop = <3
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Yeesh Rogue, got anymore pics of that piece, that curve is insane and it looks like it came out perfect. Must have had to babysit that thing the whole time
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12-06-2008, 03:39 PM | #30 |
Drives: classic mini, fiat mirafiori Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Casa Grande, AZ
Posts: 9
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The GTR part is pain.
Here's another tip: Sand the part with 80 grit to get a real rough surface. Apply a thin coat of resin and wait until it starts to tack. Apply the carbon to the 'sticky' resin and this will hold it in place. Wait a day for the resin to cure and then start the resin build up. If you start too soon the resin will soften the first coat and allow the fabric to lift, leading to air pocket and lots of problems. Here are a couple more parts (sorry not Yaris, look at Garms car for that), and keep in mind there are different options in carbon weave and carbon kevlar. |
12-06-2008, 08:05 PM | #31 |
Banned
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You've got a fine talent Rogue
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