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11-11-2012, 09:32 PM | #1 |
Banned
Drives: 1nzfe Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: earth
Posts: 12
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1NZ-FE All Motor Build
As per request, I'm starting a thread on the N/A build were working on. I'll show you what were using and where we are on it.
We can discuss any and all things related. Input is welcome and so is your creativity. There are going to be unknowns but that is part of this build. One thing that I'm not to interested in, is doing a bunch of stock comparison to all the mods with all this excess testing. What I will do is ensure all the parts are made to proper spec and that they all work together. Remember I really don't build for the average bolt on guy. I like to build the best possible built combinatin of parts possible for the platform. We go for broke or we don't go at all. Like I say, "Live to be Legendary" So with no further to do. well start with the block. Standard 1NZ-FE block. Complete internal polish (not sure why, Dustin wanted it that way) perhaps better oil flow? Not something I would of done but hey its his motor. Also sleeved by Golden Eagle. 78mm bore so now were at a 1.6L compression will be 14:1 |
11-11-2012, 09:51 PM | #2 |
Takes corners too fast!
Drives: Absolute Red 2009 Yaris HB Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 830
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shiny, not real sure why he would want it all polished on the inside perhaps with it having a smooth surface it ill be least likely for any oil to stay in the engine during oil changes.
Are you changing the stroke any? Any idea what diameter header he will be using? I am assuming with that much compression ratio that stronger head studs will be used and the pretty ITB you guys offer will utilized.
__________________
mods:15''Drag DR21 w/Nitto NeoGen 205/50R15, Tanabe DF210 lowering springs 1.6/1.8, TRD Rear Sway Bar, Tanabe Front Sway Bar, Micro Image Short Throw Shift Kit (both in and under), 8.64lbs flywheel, F1 Stage 4 Clutch, AEM Cold Air Intake (Red), Megan Racing Header, DC Sports Axle Back Exhaust, Micro Image Crank Pulley, NST lite Alternator Pulley, ARP Manifold Stud Kit,Tanabe Front Strut Tower Brace, ScanGuage II, Micro Image Silicone Radiator Hose Kit (Red), NRG Carbon Fiber Shift Knob (round), 2009-2011 Toyota Yaris Liftback Foglight kit, NRG Grounding Kit (Red), Hella Horns(Red),CF Hood |
11-11-2012, 09:59 PM | #3 |
0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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I've never seen any engine with the internals polished even motors designed for only racing. Smooth surfaces usually aren't conducive to flow of fluids and can cause puddling and beading. A easy example is to look at the bottom of a boat, they are generally coated with a semi rough material to help reduce friction. You want a semi rough surface its good for flow and fluid movement.
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11-11-2012, 10:05 PM | #4 |
Banned
Drives: 1nzfe Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: earth
Posts: 12
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We're doing two strokes. Currently we have a finished billet knife edged super light standard crank and are waiting on the 3mm stroked version.
Yes we will be doing our ITB set-up for sure. As far as header, we are using my good friend John at LHT to do our long tube header for this motor. I'm not sure of the Dia. yet but John is a guru with that stuff. I'll find out what he has in mind and get with you on that. He's the same guy that did up my wrap around turbo manifold. 10mm ARP head studs and main bolts will be used. below is a pic of the crank we have on hand. it's the stock diameter. Still waiting on the stroked one. |
11-11-2012, 10:07 PM | #5 |
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Drives: 1nzfe Join Date: Nov 2012
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At Xnamerxx, I agree.
But hey it's Dustins build and he's got the money to spend so well see what it does. |
11-11-2012, 10:27 PM | #6 |
Banned
Drives: 1nzfe Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: earth
Posts: 12
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We ended up with rods from Molar (oliver) and Arias pistons of course.
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11-11-2012, 10:36 PM | #7 |
0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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I doubt polishing the internals will make and difference to oil return, just giving an explanation about why polishing is normally bad. The only thought I had when I saw that was ,"you're going to put oil in there?".
Well I'm going to put my guess at 145~hp from the data I've seen of these engines, and a guesstimate from the big JUN cams. Keep us posted. |
11-11-2012, 10:42 PM | #8 |
Banned
Drives: 1nzfe Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: earth
Posts: 12
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will do bro. I'm as curious as you. I know Dutin is hoping for 200-225.
ECU will be standalone, Fuel Tech 400 (FT400) he wants to run nitro-methane for fuel but I'm not sure on that either. I'll continue to post up as things progress or as things change. |
11-12-2012, 01:14 AM | #9 | |
Drives: Yaris '06 Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Singapore
Posts: 73
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Quote:
GOLF BALLS ARE NOT SMOOTH |
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11-12-2012, 01:41 AM | #10 |
play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,961
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I always enjoy your many thoroughly entertaining visits here, Aras.
And have noticed a recurring pattern... There are always lots of photos of really finely made extremely high quality parts... but there is no evidence of those parts actually installed in a complete running engine. Seems like there is always the announcement of something coming just around the bend... but it never actually arrives. This makes for great showmanship, but after a while I've noticed that while there is lots of sizzle, there's no steak. Now I'm certainly a total rank amateur at marketing, but even I have a clear video of my manifold in actual use in a running engine. I'd be embarrassed to post a blurry nonrecognizeable skip framed pixellated low resolution video because it makes such a poor first impression. I eagerly wanted to see your excellent work, and was disappointed at the poor quality of presentation. There was no way to tell what was going on or even to identify what engine was running. Why not simply wait until you can make a decent video which is of the same high quality as your work? Just a suggestion. Greg |
11-12-2012, 03:26 AM | #11 |
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Drives: 1nzfe Join Date: Nov 2012
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Posts: 12
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Well Tooter, I think the blurry Mobile up-loads of the turbo motor are quite visible to that of which iv'e shown plenty of.
It was quick and on the fly. Which is why it is what it is. You can choose to believe or not to believe. But to say you cant see the motor in the car running, well; I don't think the mobile upload is that blurry. Plenty of sizzle and lots of steak. Also atl least the parts I make are not retro fitted junk-yard designs with flange changes. My turbo motor= proven and runs;while the mobile uploads are blurry it's quite obvious it works. |
11-12-2012, 11:02 AM | #12 |
play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,961
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There is a difference. My business is doing something else, and I'm just playing around with junkyard parts as a hobby, while I'm assuming that you are doing what you do as a business.
Business is an artform. It's a blank canvas on which each businessman paints a portrait that expresses the moral values by which they live. Last edited by tooter; 11-12-2012 at 11:33 AM. |
11-12-2012, 12:11 PM | #13 | |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
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Quote:
__________________
Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. Last edited by cali yaris; 11-12-2012 at 01:02 PM. |
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11-12-2012, 01:41 PM | #14 |
Super Moderator
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--[ FORUM RULES ]--[ SEARCHING TIPS ]--[ EYELIDS PICS ]--[ RBK SPOILER ]--[ BEST/WORST INVESTMENTS ]--
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11-12-2012, 02:46 PM | #15 |
Takes corners too fast!
Drives: Absolute Red 2009 Yaris HB Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 830
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easy man, tooter just wants a prettier video that truly shows how awesome 653ish hp is in an xB. no need to start dissing or anything. we all just want to see good quality videos to go with the information. and not evey one has a basically limit less budget so getting tooter's intake for a turbo build is a cheaper alternative even if it doesn't increase power it should last beyond the boots capabilities of the plastic stock intake.
__________________
mods:15''Drag DR21 w/Nitto NeoGen 205/50R15, Tanabe DF210 lowering springs 1.6/1.8, TRD Rear Sway Bar, Tanabe Front Sway Bar, Micro Image Short Throw Shift Kit (both in and under), 8.64lbs flywheel, F1 Stage 4 Clutch, AEM Cold Air Intake (Red), Megan Racing Header, DC Sports Axle Back Exhaust, Micro Image Crank Pulley, NST lite Alternator Pulley, ARP Manifold Stud Kit,Tanabe Front Strut Tower Brace, ScanGuage II, Micro Image Silicone Radiator Hose Kit (Red), NRG Carbon Fiber Shift Knob (round), 2009-2011 Toyota Yaris Liftback Foglight kit, NRG Grounding Kit (Red), Hella Horns(Red),CF Hood |
10-22-2014, 12:03 PM | #16 |
Drives: Echo RS 2004 Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 8
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what is your engine management ??
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10-22-2014, 01:57 PM | #17 |
Gabwone, OP has been banned.
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10-23-2014, 06:05 AM | #18 |
It's the illusion you see
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brossard, QC
Posts: 3,888
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For the sake of it. Why was he banned? lol
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