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Old 05-23-2019, 11:47 PM   #199
06YarisRS
 
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F/IC Wiring

I started looking at diagrams again tonight in anticipation of wiring the F/IC. Tonight's search was for a switched power source at the ECU for the F/IC power supply. Pin 28 on A21 did indeed prove to be a reliable source. I tested it and it is indeed a switched 12V source. So, that's good. I will find the signal grounds tomorrow. Since this configuration of a 2008 xD ECU, 2011 harness and 2ZR engine is unfamiliar to the turbokits guys and AEM, it will be an experiment for sure.

I had a bit of a scare. I wanted to test my trans fan and relay by crossing the terminals on the trans thermostat sensor. It seemed that my EFI fuse socket (the one that powers the MAF - thanks Trevor for that one - and now also the power supply for the transmission temp thermostat) had lost power. I tested it numerous times and started to get a little depressed. I went back inside and started pouring over the wiring diagrams hoping to find another fuse somewhere that, if blown, would cut the power supply. It turns out that because I still had the right ECU connector (A21) disconnected, the circuit was incomplete. I plugged it back in and voila, power was restored. MAF has switched power and the relay for the fan works great too.

Here is what had me freaked out before I discovered what was wrong.

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Old 05-24-2019, 01:51 PM   #200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
F/IC Wiring

I started looking at diagrams again tonight in anticipation of wiring the F/IC. Tonight's search was for a switched power source at the ECU for the F/IC power supply. Pin 28 on A21 did indeed prove to be a reliable source. I tested it and it is indeed a switched 12V source. So, that's good. I will find the signal grounds tomorrow. Since this configuration of a 2008 xD ECU, 2011 harness and 2ZR engine is unfamiliar to the turbokits guys and AEM, it will be an experiment for sure.

I had a bit of a scare. I wanted to test my trans fan and relay by crossing the terminals on the trans thermostat sensor. It seemed that my EFI fuse socket (the one that powers the MAF - thanks Trevor for that one - and now also the power supply for the transmission temp thermostat) had lost power. I tested it numerous times and started to get a little depressed. I went back inside and started pouring over the wiring diagrams hoping to find another fuse somewhere that, if blown, would cut the power supply. It turns out that because I still had the right ECU connector (A21) disconnected, the circuit was incomplete. I plugged it back in and voila, power was restored. MAF has switched power and the relay for the fan works great too.

Here is what had me freaked out before I discovered what was wrong.

Glad to hear you found the source of your electrical scare. I've had a few issues like that in the past where it ended up being a simple thing and for a couple hours the panic sets in. Keep the posts coming!
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Old 05-24-2019, 10:41 PM   #201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Glad to hear you found the source of your electrical scare. I've had a few issues like that in the past where it ended up being a simple thing and for a couple hours the panic sets in. Keep the posts coming!
Haha, yeah, it had me going for a bit. One thing about doing a build and documenting it, is that you know everything that you've done, so the proposition of fixing something doesn't seem as daunting as if you simply adopted a vehicle with so many mods. Still, though, no doubt I'll be scratching my head when it comes to start-up day and it doesn't start. LOL.
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Old 05-24-2019, 10:42 PM   #202
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Gauges

I am still deciding what I'm going to do for gauges. As mentioned, I can see a host of valuable turbo-related data through Torque Pro (such as boost, AFR, intake temps, timing etc), but in order for me to monitor oil and trans temps, I'll need aftermarket gauges since I haven't been able to confirm if Techstream can provide that live data. I have a couple of fittings that I may use for my possible gauges. The large one splices into my trans cooler return line and the smaller one is an oil drain plug with a 1/8" NPT thread, but because it narrows I'll be restricted in what sensor I use. It looks like I may have to go with Glowshift as they have a narrower sensor probe.

Here are the potential sensor ports.



And, here is the gauge I'm thinking of for my oil and trans temps.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GlowShift-1...T/292521363623




OR

This...



This...



And this...



I didn't get to any additional wiring today, but I did replace a few inches of my trans cooler out line with a 90 degree piece of trans hose that I got from a 2005 Jeep Wrangler. The cooler hose was rubbing on the passenger side intercooler intake coupling. Once I installed the 90, it allowed me to raise the intercooler coupler a bit giving me more clearance between the front rad support sub frame, which was a real bonus. If you look closely, you can see the little rubber elbow down in behind the intercooler intake coupler on the passenger side. Oh, and I sanded and painted my horn. It was quite rusty and ugly.





I still need to install the injectors and may use that as an excuse tomorrow to avoid tackling the F/IC wiring. I'll try to source a nice large firewall plug - one big enough to handle the F/IC harness, vacuum line and all my gauge wires. Then I'll need to source an appropriately sized hole saw.

I should receive my new 24" oil supply line in a day or two. The one that came with kit is about 40" long - way too long to effectively deal with in this tiny engine bay. Here is the -4AN fitting, capped and awaiting its supply line. The 24" line should be perfect with a nice gradual loop from the top of the turbo to the supply port. If I measured correctly, I won't even need to fasten the line anywhere between the turbo and supply port to prevent contact with anything on the engine or body.

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Old 05-24-2019, 11:31 PM   #203
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Just a heads up on the glowshift gauges - I found them to be +/- 10psi/degrees in accuracy and always had electrical issues with them as they were finicky


I know the price is really tempting but in what it cost in time to try and splice their tiny gauge wires and constantly try and fix electrical issues, I would just recommend going with an AEM series gauge from the get go.

AEM gauges are far from the most expensive and they aren't the most cheapest but their harness is all plug and play with easy to remove connectors, all you have to do is splice in a ground and ignition sources power. I have found them to be +/-2 psi/degrees and have zero electrical issues since my install.

Just something to keep in mind but glowshift definitely showed their price
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Old 05-24-2019, 11:57 PM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Just a heads up on the glowshift gauges - I found them to be +/- 10psi/degrees in accuracy and always had electrical issues with them as they were finicky


I know the price is really tempting but in what it cost in time to try and splice their tiny gauge wires and constantly try and fix electrical issues, I would just recommend going with an AEM series gauge from the get go.

AEM gauges are far from the most expensive and they aren't the most cheapest but their harness is all plug and play with easy to remove connectors, all you have to do is splice in a ground and ignition sources power. I have found them to be +/-2 psi/degrees and have zero electrical issues since my install.

Just something to keep in mind but glowshift definitely showed their price
Thanks indeed for the input. You are right, the price is attractive, but if they are buggy, then they probably aren't what I'm looking for. That said, I just had a look and I'd be looking at $600.00+ for the few gauges I'd need. Can't see getting that past the finance committee after the $$$ I've spent already lol. I really wish that Torque could access the data I'm looking for from the ECU. I can see virtually everything in my Kia van.

Other than the inaccuracy, can you tell me a bit about the electrical problems? Is it largely bad connectors/hardware/wiring? I ran a bunch of those cheapy Chinese gauges in my old Dodge van and and the temp ones worked fine and lasted a long time - I sold the van and they were still working after a couple of years. The oil pressure ones would work for a few months and then the sender would ultimately fail. The accuracy on the temp gauges wasn't great either, but I did test them in a pot of boiling water with a digital thermometer and they were in the order of +/- 5 degrees off. I could live with that, but the again, they were like $18.00 - $20.00 each. If the Glowshift gauges are that bad, then I wouldn't be up for paying what is 3 - 4 times the price for about the same quality of product.

More thought... I'm going to be running full synthetic oil, so do I really need to know oil temps? I know that oil doesn't hang in the same temp range as water, but is it likely to get way, way above water temps? Like, in the order of 50+F degrees? With regard to oil pressure, one guy said all a gauge will do is let you watch the destruction of your turbo in realtime as by the time you lose pressure, the turbo is toast. He said that oil temp would be more valuable as it is a variable that you could control - aka, cooler. I will already have AFR, boost, water temp, intake temp etc through Torque. If I did decide to go with better gauges and had to buy them over time, which would you recommend going with first?

Thanks again,
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Old 05-25-2019, 01:34 AM   #205
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Thanks indeed for the input. You are right, the price is attractive, but if they are buggy, then they probably aren't what I'm looking for. That said, I just had a look and I'd be looking at $600.00+ for the few gauges I'd need. Can't see getting that past the finance committee after the $$$ I've spent already lol. I really wish that Torque could access the data I'm looking for from the ECU. I can see virtually everything in my Kia van.

Other than the inaccuracy, can you tell me a bit about the electrical problems? Is it largely bad connectors/hardware/wiring? I ran a bunch of those cheapy Chinese gauges in my old Dodge van and and the temp ones worked fine and lasted a long time - I sold the van and they were still working after a couple of years. The oil pressure ones would work for a few months and then the sender would ultimately fail. The accuracy on the temp gauges wasn't great either, but I did test them in a pot of boiling water with a digital thermometer and they were in the order of +/- 5 degrees off. I could live with that, but the again, they were like $18.00 - $20.00 each. If the Glowshift gauges are that bad, then I wouldn't be up for paying what is 3 - 4 times the price for about the same quality of product.

More thought... I'm going to be running full synthetic oil, so do I really need to know oil temps? I know that oil doesn't hang in the same temp range as water, but is it likely to get way, way above water temps? Like, in the order of 50+F degrees? With regard to oil pressure, one guy said all a gauge will do is let you watch the destruction of your turbo in realtime as by the time you lose pressure, the turbo is toast. He said that oil temp would be more valuable as it is a variable that you could control - aka, cooler. I will already have AFR, boost, water temp, intake temp etc through Torque. If I did decide to go with better gauges and had to buy them over time, which would you recommend going with first?

Thanks again,
I definitely understand the situation regarding finances, it was one of the reasons I went with Glowshift in the first place. In hindsight waiting a few month to purchase AEM gauges would have been the best bet in my situation.

So the main issues with the GS gauges was the extremely small gauge wiring they come with. You have to run your own wires from the sender/sensor to the super tiny wires behind the gauge. You cannot find wires or connectors that small from typical go to stores. I had to double back the small gauge wire to make it crimpable. The gauge needle would randomly start to move 40psi lower or higher at random times. Then sometimes if I tapped the gauge it would do it again. I figured it must be a loose crimp so I rewired and triple checked all my connections to no avail as the issue persisted.

Instead of only having to connect a ground and a hot, you have 3 extra wires that although optional, they run the auto dimming feature and they keep the memory for what color you last chose. These always never held the color properly and would typically default to blue on 2 of the 3 gauges I had. Think of how messy the wiring was, 5 wires behind every gauge each with their own connectors, it was a mess.

AEM conveniently supplies a wire loom with proper connectors to attach the sensor to the back of the gauge. This makes them easy to disconnect when ever you need to or if you need to replace a sensor. All you have to do is splice in a hot and a ground on 2 of the wires from the loom. I have to extend a few wires to make it reach where I wanted the gauges to go, but the wire gauge is not super small so it was easy to work with and IIRC it matched the smallest gauge you can find at CT (21gauge I think?) AEM gauges have an auto sensor that dims the back light based on ambient light in the car. Much simple, cleaner and no gauge sweeping issues or weird electrical problems. Oh, and GS gauges have a little plastic button to change the back light color. Thus button is very loose and rattles consistently since day 1. All of the gauges were like that, it wasn't a one off.

Truth is a proper full syn oil can easily handle upwards of 300*F, most engineers will tell you 450-500F is its limit. Based on my 13k km UOA of 5w30 Pennzoil UP that regularily saw 295F it never degraded the oil to where it lost it's lubricity or viscocity. The whole belief that 260F is an oils upper limit and anything after that needs a cooler is outdated and obsolete with modern full syn oils.

Where temp matter is when it reduces yourt operating pressure below spec. For the 2zr according to Toyota it is 22-58 psi at 3k rpm and anything greater than 3 psi at idle.


Now to fix that you can either run a cooler or simply up a viscocity to maintain pressure, but then you would be running too high a viscocity when not on track. This is why a cooler is ideal for a car that is track driven and a DD'er only if the track pushes it out of its oil pressure specs. I actually strongly disagree with the guy that told you oil temp is more valuable than pressure and here is why:

If your engine has catastrophic failure and you loose oil at an alarming rate, neither a temp or pressure gauge will help you - well maybe a pressure gauge would, but you would have to have it set to an alarm or constantly be monitoring it every couple seconds. Oil temp only tells you the temp of the oil, not what actually matters. You will absolutely never get the oil too hot for a full syn's capability, even if you tracked the crap out of your car. You potentially could push the car/oil outside of the pressure specs if you tracked the crap of of your car.

Notice in the above, the dependant variable is pressure and it is dependant on temp. But only knowing the temp tells you nothing of the pressure. But by knowing pressure you know what is important regardless of the temp. Pressure if a product of temp. If you are going to get 1 gauge, let it be oil pressure. This will guide you in what oil viscosity you need to run (spoiler alert, I can almost guarantee you that 0w20 will be perfectly fine)

Here is why I doubt you will have an oil temp issue. Oil typically runs equal to, or 10 degrees F above coolant temp in 75F temps. Add 10F in peak summer months and subtract 10F in colder months. This is in city driving for a long time or highway cruising, even at 130 km/h. Where oil temps will slightly go up under these conditions is when you climb a long skyway bridge - or better put, any increase engine load. This is why 10 mins in to a 40 min lapping session at the track, my oil temps started to climb. Coolant would peak at 230F and oil would creep up to 285F and hand out there for the rest of the session (this was on stock cooling)

This was only seen during WOT and constantly at high rpm's. To put it in perspective I would go through 3/4 of a tank of gas during my 60km trip to the track and my 120km on the track.

You will never come close to these constant engine loads or temps on the street without getting arrested first. Even with an oil cooled turbo you still won't come close to those temps. The engine has no where near the load or demand on it. Spirited driving is still much more tame and less demanding than full out track driving.

In all honesty you could save your cash and forgo the gauges completely. It gives you info, but info you likely do not need other than for curiosity's sake. You already took care of the trans temp issue with a cooler so I can't see you having issues there. If you are worried about that than run a Redline ATF instead of the Toyota WS fluid which doesn't appear to be that robust of a fluid unlike their 0w20 oil.

Don't spec a higher weight oil unless you see pressures outside of the Toyota spec'd limits. Lower viscosity means higher flow which means more cooling. Higher viscosities increase temps. This is well documented on the gt-86 platform when people go from 0w20 to 5w30. It also likely contributed to my oil temps last track season as well.

This is my two cents based on me DDing in various temps and pushing my 2zr well past it's limit while keeping a careful eye on oil temps and pressure. I was surprised by some of the date I gathered, it wasn't what I was told or assumed.
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Old 05-25-2019, 10:56 AM   #206
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
I definitely understand the situation regarding finances, it was one of the reasons I went with Glowshift in the first place. In hindsight waiting a few month to purchase AEM gauges would have been the best bet in my situation.

So the main issues with the GS gauges was the extremely small gauge wiring they come with. You have to run your own wires from the sender/sensor to the super tiny wires behind the gauge. You cannot find wires or connectors that small from typical go to stores. I had to double back the small gauge wire to make it crimpable. The gauge needle would randomly start to move 40psi lower or higher at random times. Then sometimes if I tapped the gauge it would do it again. I figured it must be a loose crimp so I rewired and triple checked all my connections to no avail as the issue persisted.

Instead of only having to connect a ground and a hot, you have 3 extra wires that although optional, they run the auto dimming feature and they keep the memory for what color you last chose. These always never held the color properly and would typically default to blue on 2 of the 3 gauges I had. Think of how messy the wiring was, 5 wires behind every gauge each with their own connectors, it was a mess.

AEM conveniently supplies a wire loom with proper connectors to attach the sensor to the back of the gauge. This makes them easy to disconnect when ever you need to or if you need to replace a sensor. All you have to do is splice in a hot and a ground on 2 of the wires from the loom. I have to extend a few wires to make it reach where I wanted the gauges to go, but the wire gauge is not super small so it was easy to work with and IIRC it matched the smallest gauge you can find at CT (21gauge I think?) AEM gauges have an auto sensor that dims the back light based on ambient light in the car. Much simple, cleaner and no gauge sweeping issues or weird electrical problems. Oh, and GS gauges have a little plastic button to change the back light color. Thus button is very loose and rattles consistently since day 1. All of the gauges were like that, it wasn't a one off.

Truth is a proper full syn oil can easily handle upwards of 300*F, most engineers will tell you 450-500F is its limit. Based on my 13k km UOA of 5w30 Pennzoil UP that regularily saw 295F it never degraded the oil to where it lost it's lubricity or viscocity. The whole belief that 260F is an oils upper limit and anything after that needs a cooler is outdated and obsolete with modern full syn oils.

Where temp matter is when it reduces yourt operating pressure below spec. For the 2zr according to Toyota it is 22-58 psi at 3k rpm and anything greater than 3 psi at idle.


Now to fix that you can either run a cooler or simply up a viscocity to maintain pressure, but then you would be running too high a viscocity when not on track. This is why a cooler is ideal for a car that is track driven and a DD'er only if the track pushes it out of its oil pressure specs. I actually strongly disagree with the guy that told you oil temp is more valuable than pressure and here is why:

If your engine has catastrophic failure and you loose oil at an alarming rate, neither a temp or pressure gauge will help you - well maybe a pressure gauge would, but you would have to have it set to an alarm or constantly be monitoring it every couple seconds. Oil temp only tells you the temp of the oil, not what actually matters. You will absolutely never get the oil too hot for a full syn's capability, even if you tracked the crap out of your car. You potentially could push the car/oil outside of the pressure specs if you tracked the crap of of your car.

Notice in the above, the dependant variable is pressure and it is dependant on temp. But only knowing the temp tells you nothing of the pressure. But by knowing pressure you know what is important regardless of the temp. Pressure if a product of temp. If you are going to get 1 gauge, let it be oil pressure. This will guide you in what oil viscosity you need to run (spoiler alert, I can almost guarantee you that 0w20 will be perfectly fine)

Here is why I doubt you will have an oil temp issue. Oil typically runs equal to, or 10 degrees F above coolant temp in 75F temps. Add 10F in peak summer months and subtract 10F in colder months. This is in city driving for a long time or highway cruising, even at 130 km/h. Where oil temps will slightly go up under these conditions is when you climb a long skyway bridge - or better put, any increase engine load. This is why 10 mins in to a 40 min lapping session at the track, my oil temps started to climb. Coolant would peak at 230F and oil would creep up to 285F and hand out there for the rest of the session (this was on stock cooling)

This was only seen during WOT and constantly at high rpm's. To put it in perspective I would go through 3/4 of a tank of gas during my 60km trip to the track and my 120km on the track.

You will never come close to these constant engine loads or temps on the street without getting arrested first. Even with an oil cooled turbo you still won't come close to those temps. The engine has no where near the load or demand on it. Spirited driving is still much more tame and less demanding than full out track driving.

In all honesty you could save your cash and forgo the gauges completely. It gives you info, but info you likely do not need other than for curiosity's sake. You already took care of the trans temp issue with a cooler so I can't see you having issues there. If you are worried about that than run a Redline ATF instead of the Toyota WS fluid which doesn't appear to be that robust of a fluid unlike their 0w20 oil.

Don't spec a higher weight oil unless you see pressures outside of the Toyota spec'd limits. Lower viscosity means higher flow which means more cooling. Higher viscosities increase temps. This is well documented on the gt-86 platform when people go from 0w20 to 5w30. It also likely contributed to my oil temps last track season as well.

This is my two cents based on me DDing in various temps and pushing my 2zr well past it's limit while keeping a careful eye on oil temps and pressure. I was surprised by some of the date I gathered, it wasn't what I was told or assumed.
Wow! Thanks for the detailed response, Trevor. Lots of great info here. I clearly have a few options:

1) Trans Temp Gauge, No Oil Temp Gauge, No Oil Pressure Gauge: Do an oil pressure test with a pressure gauge at the oil port and flow rate at the turbo oil feed (I have the specs required for that). If specs are good, button everything up and not worry about it again. Install the trans temp gauge and call it done. I have the fittings and it would be a simple install.

2) Trans Temp Gauge and Oil Temp Gauge: Install the trans temp gauge as above and if I go with a oil temp gauge using the bored drain plug, I'd have to go with Glowshift as they are the only ones I can see with a sensor probe narrow enough to work in the oil plug fitting that I got. The dual Glowshift gauge I posted the pic of first has full harnesses, so might be marginally better than the individual gauges from a wiring reliability standpoint. Of course, I'd run their harnesses through split loom and secure that along the way with zipties.

3) Trans Temp Gauge, Oil Temp Gauge and Oil Pressure Gauge: For the oil pressure gauge, I'd need an "X" type fitting at the oil pressure port on the engine to accommodate the oil pressure sending unit.

4) Trans Temp and Oil Pressure: as described above.

5) No gauges at all

I'm am leaning toward Option 4.

I'm really not getting the warm and fuzzies about using the oil drain plug fitting with the 3/8" female bore. If for any reason that broke off, the results could obviously be catastrophic. Because of the oil drain plug angle (pointing downward at about a 45 degree angle), it would put the sensor in a strike path if I did run over anything.

If I drop my oil pan and tap a 1/8" NPT hole, I would not be limited to the Glowshift gauges and the options would be wide open.

Decisions, decisions...
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 05-25-2019 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 05-25-2019, 10:44 PM   #207
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Check it out boyz...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wA1mG4dOs4
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Old 05-25-2019, 11:32 PM   #208
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She runs!!!!
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Old 05-26-2019, 12:09 AM   #209
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Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
She runs!!!!
She does! I am concerned a bit about the fuel trims. The STFT and LTFT are around +18 to +19. I'm hoping that it's not related to the fact that I'm using a vented valve cover filter and it's resulting in a vacuum leak, as I believe you alluded to. But, this is what I was advised to do. The other thing is that I don't know if the downstream o2 sensor has any bearing on fuel trims as it's completely disconnected. The odd thing is is that no codes have been set and the car has run 5 - 6 times for a total of about 1/2 hour. Also not sure how the F/IC will affect these readings. As happy as I was that the car started right up - literally on the first crank - I was hoping that when it ran, it would run the same as before the kit. The engine is extremely smooth and may be idling a couple hundred RPM above normal - around 750 RPM. I will go back and check all my other vacuum hoses.

I did rev it up to about 3500 RPM - only after about a total of 20 minutes of idling - and the turbo spooling kinda freaked me out a bit. It's quite a high pitched squealing sound, though I did have my intake off for this initial testing. I paniced a wee bit as it sounded a little like metal on metal, but after watching a few youtube vids on turbo sounds, it's quite similar. Plus, I'm getting great oil flow through the turbo.

It did take a bit to prime the cooling system after some coolant loss from having the heater hoses, throttle body coolant lines etc off. I appear to be getting decent coolant flow through the turbo as the cooling hoses are getting warm. The only thing is is that the upper heater hose isn't really getting that warm, but the lower one is. And, my heater isn't putting out as much heat as before. It is warm but not hot. There may still be some air in the system. Also, the turbo cooling lines are considerably smaller than the actual heater hoses, so there may be some restriction of volume happening there.

Trevor, could you do me a big favor at some point? If you get a chance and are willing, next time you run your car, could you compare the temps of the upper and lower heater hoses and see if they are similar as your car reaches operating temp? Maybe let me know how long it takes for those two hoses to reach a similar temp? I haven't really run mine at temp for very long, so maybe the upper hose (return to engine line, I presume) needs longer to heat up. I tapped into the hose that comes out of the driver's side of the block. The return line, I believe enters the rear of the block. I don't think it actually matters which hose is tapped into.
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 05-26-2019 at 12:33 AM.
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Old 05-26-2019, 12:38 AM   #210
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Sweet!!! been keeping an eye on this project, loving it
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Old 05-26-2019, 09:37 AM   #211
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Nice!

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Old 05-26-2019, 11:10 PM   #212
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Thanks gents! Just a few little bugs to work out. I have a tiny leak at the turbo drain fitting - basically a little drip forms on one for the bolts after running for a bit. I need to source a better gasket. Fuel trims are running high, but the F/IC hasn't been connected yet and it has an internal MAP sensor, so maybe that fixes the trims. Don't yet know much about MAF vs MAP. Also, it could be my valve cover vented to atmosphere causing a vacuum leak. I've got a ticket into turbokits.com for advice on this one. Finally, my heater isn't as hot as it used to be. I did have to fill up with coolant again after disconnecting several hoses, so maybe I've got a bubble in there that needs to work its way out. Also, the turbo cooling lines reduce down in size a lot so maybe it's just less flow through that system.

Overall, great so far. I'm sure the "real fun" will start once I get the F/IC hooked up. Wish me luck. I'll likely need it!
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Old 05-27-2019, 12:51 PM   #213
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I would be very surprised if the vented valve cover has anything to do with your fuel trim issue as long as you have no open bungs on your intake or manifold down strem of the maf sensor. My concern with the vented valve cover was crankcase pressure issues as it normally has a vacuum on it pulling out the vapors. That said it shouldn't be a problem because any built up pressure will be greater than atmospheric pressures and vent out anyways.

The F/IC should be able to correct the fuel trims, but other than a vacuum leak I'm not sure why you are running lean fuel trims. FWIW ever since I went with an aftermarket full header back exhaust I have always run -12 to -14 LTFT. This was with my 1nz as well as the 2zr.

Check your oil catch can for vacuum leaks, happens a lot more than you would think and it was the source of a vacuum leak on my 1nz. Do your FT's change/normalize when you rev it to 3k rpm and hold it there? that is a good test of a vacuum leak as there is less vacuum on the system as the throttle opens.

I'll check my heater hoses tonight but the coolant should bleed itself out if that is infact the issue. Also it helps to have the front of the car jacked higher than the rear to aid in bleeding. It puts the rad cap at an even higher point than any other cooling system component to aid in air removal. Also coolant temps will rarely get up to full operating temp idling in a driveway so the heater core will still act as a heat sink even without the hvac fan running and it will still somewhat cool the coolant.

The downstream O2 sensor is a dumb sensor and shouldn't play a role in FT's unlike the upstream AFR sensor does. The downstream O2 sensor typically should throw a code P0420 etc when it is disconnected. But in my experience I have found this to be one of the last engine readiness checks that the ECU runs through so it may take some various condition driving for it to trigger on.

Good luck with the wiring!
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Old 05-27-2019, 10:11 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
I would be very surprised if the vented valve cover has anything to do with your fuel trim issue as long as you have no open bungs on your intake or manifold down strem of the maf sensor. My concern with the vented valve cover was crankcase pressure issues as it normally has a vacuum on it pulling out the vapors. That said it shouldn't be a problem because any built up pressure will be greater than atmospheric pressures and vent out anyways.

The F/IC should be able to correct the fuel trims, but other than a vacuum leak I'm not sure why you are running lean fuel trims. FWIW ever since I went with an aftermarket full header back exhaust I have always run -12 to -14 LTFT. This was with my 1nz as well as the 2zr.

Check your oil catch can for vacuum leaks, happens a lot more than you would think and it was the source of a vacuum leak on my 1nz. Do your FT's change/normalize when you rev it to 3k rpm and hold it there? that is a good test of a vacuum leak as there is less vacuum on the system as the throttle opens.

I'll check my heater hoses tonight but the coolant should bleed itself out if that is infact the issue. Also it helps to have the front of the car jacked higher than the rear to aid in bleeding. It puts the rad cap at an even higher point than any other cooling system component to aid in air removal. Also coolant temps will rarely get up to full operating temp idling in a driveway so the heater core will still act as a heat sink even without the hvac fan running and it will still somewhat cool the coolant.

The downstream O2 sensor is a dumb sensor and shouldn't play a role in FT's unlike the upstream AFR sensor does. The downstream O2 sensor typically should throw a code P0420 etc when it is disconnected. But in my experience I have found this to be one of the last engine readiness checks that the ECU runs through so it may take some various condition driving for it to trigger on.

Good luck with the wiring!
Great info as always, Trevor. Thanks. I will check my catch can for leaks. I'll also see how the trims react at higher rpm, around the suggested 3000. Thanks for being willing to check your heater hoses. I did run the car a bit today and the upper hose seemed warmer than yesterday.

I do have to lengthen my o2 sensor wires and then decide how I am going to route it to the opposite side of the downpipe. I haven't decided, though, whether or not I should have a cat installed. What will however be a logistical problem is how to get the car to the exhaust shop with basically a straight pipe. It is extremely loud! So much so, that I have to wear ear plugs when running the car even at idle. I was wondering if I ought to get a temporary cylindrical muffler that would clamp to the 3" downpipe, so that I could get to the exhaust shop without deafening myself or getting pulled over.
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Old 05-28-2019, 02:40 PM   #215
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So impressive. Massive congrats on the first start. Sounds like you'll have the bugs worked out in no time. Beyond cool.
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Old 05-28-2019, 06:00 PM   #216
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So impressive. Massive congrats on the first start. Sounds like you'll have the bugs worked out in no time. Beyond cool.
Thanks ern-diz! I think, from a technical standpoint, the most challenging part remains - hooking up the F/IC. To be honest, I've done my best to figure out the wiring, but I'm not fully confident in my ability to have done that correctly. Let's just say I had to make some guesses based upon info from a variety of sources. No one has, as of yet, confirmed decisively that my wiring is correct. The guys at AEM said my diagrams look right, but they couldn't be sure as they were unfamiliar with the car's ECU. I may pester them again for more definite answers, but since the F/IC has been discontinued - and therefore support for the product - I may be lucky to get much of anything.
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