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Old 03-31-2019, 09:07 PM   #91
myfirstyota
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Another thing you may want to consider is a poly filled dogbone trans mount. Keep the clearances in check by minimizing engine rock.
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Old 03-31-2019, 09:24 PM   #92
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^what he said.

It will limit the amount the engine moves so it needs less clearance at the fire wall. With only one mount in the sagittal plane there is little to hold the engine in place
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Old 03-31-2019, 10:29 PM   #93
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I've read about those poly mounts. This is something I would have to make on my own, is it not? I think you made some Trevor, didn't you? I doubt there is one available to purchase for my application. I'm definitely interested. Last thing I want is the turbo smashing into the firewall under acceleration - or anytime, obviously. Suggestions/additional info welcomed.

Just read about filling the mount with 3M window sealant. This doesn't sound like a long-term solution, though I did read a few success stories. I figured it would fall out but it connects and bonds together from both sides, so maybe it would last.

Also watched this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYzL-IXqiSY
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Old 03-31-2019, 11:08 PM   #94
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Correct, I made my own out of 94a poly (stiffest they had). I bought a pre measured kit from energy suspension and as long as you properly mix them it works great and is very durable.

The first time I did this I didn't dremel any of the stock rubber mount away and I improperly mixed the liquids so it was slightly brittle. It still.worked but cracked so it loosened up the mount a bit.

The second time I made sure to do it right. I deremel'd out as much of the factory rubber as i could while leaving enough in there to keep the middle metal sleeve in the correct place.

I mixed all the liquid at once (that is recommended) and let it sit 5 days before install. I can't easily check my doggone mount but the last time I was down there is looks great and I have never had that knocking sound come back since I installed them. The sound was due to tje trans hitting the subframe.

I recently inspected my trans mount since I can easily see it with no battery in the way and it had not cracked at all and still looks great.

There is nothing available in the aftermarket so we are kind of left to make one ourselves. I wrote up brief diy on it with pictures, if the pictures are not still in the thread just let me know
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Old 04-01-2019, 01:47 AM   #95
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Повените турбину на 180 градусов по горизонтали

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Old 04-01-2019, 06:55 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tima122 View Post
Повените турбину на 180 градусов по горизонтали
Благодарю вас. Это не будет работать, потому что выхлопная труба не будет в выравнивании. (Thank you. This will not work because the exhaust pipe will not be in alignment)
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Old 04-01-2019, 09:53 PM   #97
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"Messaging" Firewall

People see to use the term "messaging" the firewall. I call it beating the crap out of it. I'm not finshed, but I've basically created about a 1.5" - 2" cup into which the turbo compressor housing can fit when the engine rocks backwards under acceleration. I used the blunt end of my breaker bar and a big hammer. I worked in a ever decreasing diameter. Right now the turbo should clear as I believe it should rotate downwards slightly. I base this on the positioning of the motor mounts. I plan to grind down the rough bits, skim it with bondo, quick sand, prime and color match paint it. I have about a pint of the OEM color left, so I'm good for supplies.

I also picked up a tube of Proform Urethane and will remove the dogbone mount and fill that up. If it does fail, I'll redo it as per Trevor's approach with actual catalyzed urethane.

I also permanently mounted the manifold. The OEM gasket was in good shape, but received a thin bead of Copper High Heat RTV on both sides, so hopefully no leaks. The RTV squeezed out ever so slightly, so the seal should be good. I'll retorque again tomorrow.

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Old 04-01-2019, 09:55 PM   #98
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Awesome job, just a slight massage!
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Old 04-01-2019, 11:00 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
It certainly is!
It looks bigger than specs on the site. Must be skinny plank flooring that it is resting on.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk
Here are some measurements, WeeYari. The dimensions listed on the site are based on the core size. The overall length is about 27" including the end caps.





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Old 04-01-2019, 11:02 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Awesome job, just a slight massage!
Haha. Thanks man
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Old 04-02-2019, 11:10 AM   #101
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HVAC?

I'm hoping that I didn't damage my HVAC when "messaging" my firewall. I don't know of anyone that has had their HVAC (condensor/heater core, controller unit) out. Before I started pounding on the firewall, I slid my fingers up behind the unit and it appeared there was enough room - at the bottom. I can still get my fingers between the firewall and blower unit at the bottom. But, the unit takes a turn back to the firewall and I'm not sure how close it gets. Judging by the rubber drain hose, the unit itself seems higher up.

Wish me luck...I'm going start the car (a real racket it will be with just the log manifold) and I'll test my HVAC and see if everything is operational. Serious fingers crossed as this is a job that I REALLY don't want to get into!

I did find this post in which CT Scott shows pics of the unit. I tired working my miraculous spatial geometry skills, but it got me no further toward determining how close the unit rests to the firewall. It does look like it is supported on a crossbar under the dash, and there was no evidence of fasteners on the outside area of the firewall that I abused.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48284

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Old 04-02-2019, 03:08 PM   #102
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Yeah, the HVAC unit is a real monster to get out. I took a Yaris dash completely apart at the junk yard once and wasn't able to get it out. I think this is why some setups have moved the turbo into the air box space.
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Old 04-02-2019, 03:28 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan View Post
Yeah, the HVAC unit is a real monster to get out. I took a Yaris dash completely apart at the junk yard once and wasn't able to get it out. I think this is why some setups have moved the turbo into the air box space.
Hey, Sam. Yeah, it's in there pretty good. At lunch, on a whim, I went out to the parking lot and peeled back the carpet on my '08. If I'm correct, I have avoided damage to the unit as the mounting points seem to straddle the area that I pounded in. I'll check the actual car when I get home to confirm. There appears that I may have had just enough room to make the indentation. I wish I still had my borescope, then I'd know for sure.

Update: Fortunately, no damage to the HVAC that I can see. Removing the glovebox helps as well, but I can see from the passenger side that the dent lands, as suspected, between the plastic mounting tabs on the HVAC module. Yay!

Primed and painted "dent".



If I get time tonight, I hope to take the dogbone off, clean, degrease that and fill it with urethane. With the dogbone removed, I'll be able to rock the engine a bit to see how much actual clearance I do have. If clearances are good, I'll degrease, prime and paint the depression. Also, planning to trim that fugly firewall blanket.

Next Steps:

- Drill hole and tap for oil return fitting

- Mount turbo, permanently (done)
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Old 04-03-2019, 09:04 PM   #104
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Tonight's Tinkering

When I was under the car removing the dogbone to fill it with urethane, I had a mild panic situation as I noticed that the compressor out nozzle was aiming directly at the subframe, several inches from a direct down shot to the space between the axle and the subframe. I assumed that in the Corolla the opening is much larger and the pipe went straight down through. So, I started calculating that I'd need an offset coupler (if such a thing exists) a bit of pipe and a few clamps. Much to my delight, I dug through my boxes and then referred again to the install manual, and there is a 45 coupler that attaches to the compressor outlet and the pipe it joins also starts with a 45. A little trimming (which you have to do too with the Corolla) and the piping fits perfectly! So happy!





The other thing I did tonight was fill my mount with urethane. The mount was a bit rusty and a bit of the rubber at the top had started to peel away as rust formed under it. I trimmed off these small sections, scraped off the rust. I wire brushed the complete mount (rubber and all) with soapy water and the degreased with lacquer thinner. I also bored out the holes a bit so I could get full contact through the mount.

I probably wouldn't have had to strengthen this mount at all as when I removed the dogbone, I could rock the engine a bit. At it's farthest back position - where it contacts the rubber seal on the subframe, the turbo still had about 3/4" clearance. The engine won't go back that far I'm sure anyway with the dogbone in. On the upside, maybe I'll get a little better power response with the tighter mount. If it's too rough and I don't like it, I'll either drill a few small holes in it or order a new mount and install that.






Finished Mount. Man, this thing is stiff! And, I don't think it's 100% cured yet. I lathered the mount with rust converter and let it sit for about an hour. Then washed it, 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of rust paint. While it's out, I'll clean out the recess in the subframe and shoot some Fluid Film in there. Fortunately the recess is pretty much rust free as I'd blasted product in there during my rustproofing sessions.

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Old 04-06-2019, 04:38 PM   #105
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Hoping to do the turbo oil drain this evening. It will involve draining the oil, removing the pan, drilling a 9/16" hole in the block, tapping for 3/8" NPT, installing and sealing the nipple with high temp RTV.

As much as I wanted to buy a pneumatic angle drill for my compressor setup, I couldn't justify the cost, so I went with the DeWalt angle drill attachment. Also picked up a 3/8" NPT tap at Princess Auto for $7.49 and a 3-pack of step bits for $12.99.

Canadian Tire had Pennzoil Platinum on sale - about the same as what I'd pay stateside at Walmart, so I grabbed one of those jugs. I'll run full synthetic from now on in this car.



Update: This job is almost done:

Pan removal. Such a pleasure working on an engine that is relatively new. Bolts came off so easily.



Toyota sure loves their RTV. Took about 1/2 hour to get the pan off without damaging the pan itself or the mating surface. I used a thin bladed utility knife, carefully, around the perimeter between the pan and block.



Pan Off



A+ DeWalt. 90 degree attachment worked like an absolute charm.



This part was scary. I've tapped lots of sheet steel but never cast. The tap cut nicely with lots of rotations and counter rotations, but I was afraid that the block was going to crack. 9/16" hole drilled for 3/8" NPT threads.



Threads in perfectly and should be almost touching the block when tightened down with teflon tape and then high temp, oil-resistant RTV on both sides of the fitting.



Tomorrow, I'll go out and thoroughly clean out all the tiny metal fragments from drilling and remove all the old RTV from the mating surface. I'll use plastic razor blades to ensure no damage to the mating surface. I'll wash everything down with thinner for a better bond with the RTV both on the mating surface and the new fitting, then use compressed air. Finally, reinstall the pan and connect the hose from the turbo drain to the new fitting.

My son has a hockey tournament today, so I may not get much done beyond the above.

Next steps:

- attach new "tee" adapter to oil pressure sensor port on engine
- run turbo oil supply line from "tee" to turbo
- intercept heater hoses with coolant supply lines for turbo
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Old 04-08-2019, 10:18 PM   #106
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Oil pan has been reinstalled. I'll retorque the bolts tomorrow as well as clean up the RTV on the bottom of the pan.



Turbo end plumbing done and wastegate actuator reinstalled. I have to cut about 2 inches off the steel braided oil return line as it will rub on the subframe. The Yaris has a smaller opening at the front of the subframe which would account for the shortening of the hose. Not sure how I'll cut the hose, but it will likely involve unwinding the braid then cutters or a hacksaw to cut the rubber. The two outside hoses are the coolant in and out and the middle (larger hose) is the oil return.



Just found a video on a good way to cut the braided hose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwcVAyarCHM

UPDATE: Cut and hooked up oil drain hose. Also cut and connected the compressor to waste actuator pressure tube. Last night I got thinking about whether or not I had cleaned out the pan and lower block well enough. From the drilling there was a lot of swarf (aluminum filings) from the drilling and tapping process. I had cleaned it reasonably well, but my mind got the better of me, so I removed the pan again tonight and made sure there was nothing left in there. It was actually really clean but I blasted the area (well below the crank and main bearings) thoroughly with brake cleaner, use numerous microfiber cloths and compressed air. It's spotless now. The oil from the pan is routed through the pump to the oil filter so I expect nothing would have gotten through, but I've spent too much time and money to have the engine and turbo destroyed by some rogue filings.



Next Steps:

- hook up oil supply fittings at pressure sensor port
- hook coolant lines to the heater hoses
- Install downpipe
- Install K&N turbo compressor intake air filter
- install transmission cooler (I bought a tube and fin cooler a few years ago and never used it.)

Once everything is bolted up - and before the AEM F/IC is wired in - I'll verify oil flow through the supply line (disconnected from turbo) turning the car over without starting. I will prime the turbo with oil just in case I detect an oil supply issue. I'll have to look up which fuses to pull to kill the ignition and injectors. Then I'll run the car and check for oil and water leaks. In the meantime, I'll be ordering an oil pressure gauge and will have to swap the fitting that comes with the kit for a tee to add the oil pressure gauge.
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Old 04-12-2019, 09:21 PM   #107
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Started Charge Piping

OK, so this is where some of the real modification begins. Any parts that are directly connected to the engine, I'll try to keep a small space on the order of 1/4" and I'll glue rubber pads on possible wear areas. I'm hoping to achieve 1/2" - 3/4" or more between piping and chassis parts, but this will be a challenge. Again, rubber pads and or sections of split rubber hose will be glued in all possible wear areas. I'm just loose fitting everything for now. It will all come apart, cleaned and obviously attached with the T clamps.

I was very happy that I did manage to get the MAF pipe in and down below the headlight. This was the piece that I figured would need to be cut and coupled, but I got lucky. I may have to move back or slightly downsize my battery as there's only about 1/4" clearance between it and the MAF pipe. Fitting it in there did require unclipping some of the small harnesses and tapping over a few tabs, but I'll re-secure the wires when I'm done.



There are going to have to be mods done to the intercooler piping. The pipe that connects to the driver's side of the intercooler will require about 6" cut off, bead rolled and a 45 degree 2.5" x 3" silicone coupler. Some metal needs to be removed to attach to the intercooler. On the upside, it looks as though all of the piping will tuck in close enough to the car that none of it should interfere with my bumper cover/foglights etc. That's a bonus, lol.







The left side of intercooler will also require mods, This one is fairly simple. I'll have to cut 3" - 4" inches off the aluminum piping, bead roll the end and attach the 90 degree 2.5" x 3" coupler.





Here is another challenge. The Corolla has a much wider opening in the subframe. I had initially thought that I'd have clearance but I don't. The 45 degree coupler that connects to the turbo and goes down to meet the pipe is touching the subframe. I could clock the turbo a few more degrees, but that would put a little side pressure on the wastegate actuator arm, which I am reluctant to do. I may have to buy a couple of different couplers and try to sidestep that pesky subframe. It's also just touching the oil return line. I'm not worried about heat or chaffing as the two will move together as they are both one with the engine. However, I'll try to figure something out to remedy that.



This section of pipe should be fairly easy but may also require a little trimming and bead rolling to shorten the overall length. This pipe has to go up but also much closer to the oil pan.



Here's a front-on shot. Please excuse the mess. I think tomorrow I'll go out and do some tidying.





So, overall I'm fairly happy about how this part of the project is going. I hadn't intended to tackle the charge piping at all this eveing, but I did remove the airbox because I'm trying to address another probem that could only be tackled with the removal of the airbox and the MAF pipe in situ. Anyone care to guess why I'm looking for extra space in the engine bay?
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Old 04-12-2019, 11:10 PM   #108
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I would recommend just taking an air hammer or cutoff wheel to the flat part of the subframe touching the pipe from the turbo (then repaint).

That part isn't very sructural and is mostly just left over from when the steel is stamped. That is the part of the subframe I air hammered on mine to better clear the transmission to make it easier to remove and re install.

Good work so far, this is coming along nicely
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