Want to build costom turbo kit. Need advice from boosted guys!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

sure thing, next time i'm near the car, which is Monday

As a token of my appreciation, I believe it's time for me to order that Eurolight kit I've been eyeing up.

[cali yaris]

haha, and so you did. Now I HAVE to take that picture

[pimp my yaris]

Hey Garm this manafold from Turbo-kits.com looks a lot like yours. Do you guys use same supplier? I need that downpipe from their kit. Looks like it would work good with my setup.

[pimp my yaris]

looks like his mani has a EGT bung

[cali yaris]

different supplier, their manifold is fine. That downpipe did NOT fit my car, however (it was modeled on an xB). I also had a perfectly horrible customer experience with them trying to get the parts I did order (took four months to get something that was supposedly "in stock").

[scioncrew]

didn't fit the XB either! I had to modify mine to fit i quess that what i get for being lazzy and not make it my self.

[pimp my yaris]

Wow that service blows. Are U going to sell the downpipe U had fabricated or is it a one shot piece?

[pimp my yaris]

Got my Turbo and manafold yesterday. Wed, I will mount up and check for clearance and measure for oil lines. Also I talked to a local tuner and he sugested Emanage ultimate piggy back. Also found a place that will fabricate a costome plug and play harness for the emanage ultimate, but its 500$. If anyone is intrested its called Boomslang Fabrication. It was recomended by the tech guy at Greddy.

[scioncrew]

looking good! good luck man

[scioncrew]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

Wow that service blows. Are U going to sell the downpipe U had fabricated or is it a one shot piece?

love to help but i have an XB. i need a car to do it.

[cali yaris]

No one knows if the boomslang is compatible with the USDM ECU. It seems like it should be, but we won't know until someone tries it (hint hint)

[Bluevitz-rs]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

... the boomslang ...

[cali yaris]

Boomslang (company name) makes a plug 'n play wiring harness for the AEM FIC and the Yaris.

[Nexus1155]

Change the setup you have for the wastegate and boost pickup lines to a MBC setup, this way it will boost to the psi you want and you will get no wastegate issues.

Also, thats a chinese turbo, prime the crap out of it with the fuel fuse removed so it will deliver oil to it before you start up the car. I have them on my car and just started it up this week.

[pimp my yaris]

Well I couldn't wait till wed. Today I mounted it up and checked for clearance. It fits but its very close. The wastegate acuator bracket is about 1/4 inch away from the firewall. I may need to pound it back just a touch. But the engine torque should pull the engine down and away when on the gas. I also needed to reclock the compressor housing so the discharge was not so close to the engine block. Then I needed to drill and tap a small hole in the compressor housing for the wastegate actuator. Its now adjusted so the discharge is aimed straight down for easy attachment of intercooler pipe. Took some pics to. Now I need mo money Next update in 2-3 weeks.

[Nexus1155]

Then I needed to drill and tap a small hole in the compressor housing for the wastegate actuator

Why? Thats what that 90* brass elbow is for that the wastegate actuator was connected to in the first place, is a boost pickup line.

Most of them OEM have them on the housing, but aftermarket chinese units have them on the compressor outlet.... Serves the same purpose.

Engine flexes every which way, not only forwards. and especially when you hit rev limiter, it will shake like a mother. Make sure there is enough room so nothing gets crushed. 1/4" is pretty damn close. Read and take in my suggestions in the last post i made before yours too, I am sure everyone else will concur as well.

[pimp my yaris]

Nexus1155 Reclocking the turbo involves changing the direction of the air discharge on the compressor housing. when the turbo was mounted the discharge was less then an inch from the engine block. In the pictures U can see now it is straight down and aimed between the axel and subframe. The hole needed to be drilled because the actuator can not be moved. It must be across from the wastgate. Their were some extra holes drilled in the compresser housing to reclock but not enough. You can see extra holes in the picture. You can also see the mark where I drilled the additional hole. If you look at pics of turbo U can see discharge is about 90 degrees different. As far as the clearance goes I said I may need to bend firewall back slighltly if it makes contact. If you use external wastegate there would be plenty of clearance but the downpipe would be more complicated.

[Nexus1155]

I see what you mean from those pics, but you can always go to the auto store and get a longer hose and reroute the line, or tap in a MBC up to your engine compartment so you do not get wastegate flutter.

Anyways, the easiest solution is the one not involving fabrication work.....but I am glad to see youre getting things mocked up already.

If you are worry about the heat, you can always get some heat resistant tube wrap, i used them on my wastegate lines as well from being so close to the manifold, but the line can usually handle anything thats not touchign manifold or turbo hot side