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Old 01-14-2013, 08:28 AM   #505
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I have the tool if U need it I can send it to U as long as U return it. Send me a PM with your address. I am surprised you blew the head gasket. The Yaris use a metal haed gasket and they are pretty strong. How much boost are U pushing? Did you retard the timing with the FIC timing map?
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:34 PM   #506
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Thanks for the offer pimp, but I already ordered one.

I was only pushing about 9 lbs with the timing untouched, but I don't think that was the issue. When I had the car at the mechanic, we noticed one of the clamps I had on the throttle body coolant hose had actually broken and was dripping coolant. It was a very slow leak, but overtime probably caused overheating... I never noticed excessive coolant temps though.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:19 PM   #507
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Could've had an air pocket trapped in that spot an never know it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:10 PM   #508
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I was pushing 12psi with stock compression, but I did retard the timing at any boost level over 7psi with the Fic map. It will help avoid detonation. If your car would stumble or miss on hard excel. it could be the knock sensor cutting spark because of detonation. When my car does it I know I need to retard timing a little further. Usually after turning up the boost when the engine is still a little cool. A negative sign - must be put in front of the value on the fic map. It can only retard timing. It can not advance. Just a sugestion.
A lot of detonation can cause a bad head gasket as well. My Conquest TSI (with cranked up boost) blew several head gaskets because I had no timing control.
Also that front cover and timing chain really suck with the engine in the car. Very tight fit. The exhaust cam sprocket has three marks on it. Make sure U align on the right one. It caused me three days of headaches with my car almost starting, but it would not keep running. Best of luck
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:04 PM   #509
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I definitely wish I knew what the exact cause of this was, but I think I'll take your advice pimp and retard the timing a bit. Maybe the manner in which the gasket failed will tell us something (or if the head is warped).
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:50 AM   #510
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where did u guys get the proper head bolt tool? i hammered a tripple square into it to get mine out.
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:45 AM   #511
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Quote:
i hammered a tripple square into it to get mine out
*shudders*

You can easily find those. 8mm 12pt bit. Just type it in google and you will get so many choices.
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:50 AM   #512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yaris2010RS View Post
where did u guys get the proper head bolt tool? i hammered a tripple square into it to get mine out.
You had to hammer it? I thought the tool is a triple square?

Here's the one I got
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400243378711
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:57 PM   #513
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^negative, i purchased a tripple square and the angles were slightly off, i had to grind down the tool i purchased just to squeeze it in where the silly head bolts go and still had to hammer it into the bolt head, the bolts are garbage but the hardened bit was able to get all the bolts out.

Toyota used a double hex bit. which is almost impossible to find from local stores. Toyota does admit this tool was used on purpose and is only used on a few models. They do make a tool themselves and supply all toyota techs with one. This is the scoop i got from toyota atleast. They will not sell me a tool nor let me borrow one, they did offer me for the cost of 1 hour of labour, when im ready to put my engine together they will do it for me......
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:18 PM   #514
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12-Point XZN (Triple-Square)
This is another variant of a 12-point head. But (as the name indicates) it is made of three squares (instead of two hexagons). The corners are therefor 90 degrees (instead of 120 degrees). This is clearly visible in the pictures where the corners are much sharper on "triple-square" than on "double-hex" heads.


12-Point (Double-Hex)
This is one common variant of a 12-point head. It is made of two hexagons. The corners are therefor 120 degrees. Common sizes are 6, 8, 10 and 12 mm.
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:24 PM   #515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs View Post
Could've had an air pocket trapped in that spot an never know it.
wouldnt that have gotten pushed out after a small amount of engine use?
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:22 PM   #516
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What a load of crap about that tool. That's a pretty pathetic tactic to get more business.

Be it overheating or predetonation, I'll definitely be accounting for both of them.

Tool should be here tomorrow, so we'll know more then.
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:42 PM   #517
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Just courious, did u end up getting compression readings?

reading more into your troubles and comparing them with mine we definatly had the same issue..... i keep meaning to check my HG for signs of leaks
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:56 PM   #518
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I did do the test again (throttle open, engine cold) and got 210 across all four. Assuming it is truly the head gasket, it should be interesting to see how it failed. I'm guessing coolant in the cylinder(s) based on what was found.
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:57 PM   #519
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Thats odd...... if there is coolant getting in it would most likely be on the return (down) stroke so on the compression stroke you should see a loss of pressure.

What made you lean towards coolant in the cylidners?
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:24 PM   #520
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Ok, head is off. Look at the pictures first...













There's little bits of aluminum everywhere on the gasket. It's also covered in coolant.

I can't find any major cracks or anything wrong with the gasket. However, look at the cylinders. I don't know what they look like normally, but mine look like they could be warped. Each of the corners looks slightly burnt also.

Anything else look out of the ordinary? I still have to check for warpage on the head.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:14 PM   #521
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If coolant enters the cylinder the top of the piston will be washed clean and it is very noticable. Your pistons look equally dark with slight carbon deposits. Pretty normal. Did you disconnect the fuel pump or the injectors when you did the compression test? If the injectors are still squirting fuel during the compression test the fuel will create a excellent seal for the rings and give you false readings. The test should be done dry, and then retested with a little oil in each cyl. to compare the difference.
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:57 AM   #522
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Yep, no cylinder washing...

I removed the two efi fuses when I did the compression tests.

At this point, I'm just going to replace the head gasket, have the head decked, and throw it all back together. It's been almost two months and I still am no closer to solving this... VERY frustrating.
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