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Old 06-13-2012, 06:33 PM   #163
Takes corners too fast!
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Drives: Absolute Red 2009 Yaris HB
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yea enough talk let see those parts; see the build; see the video; and listen to the purr, wine, and whistle of the turbo as the Yaris winds up.

This thread needs more photos to stare at :D
mods:15''Drag DR21 w/Nitto NeoGen 205/50R15, Tanabe DF210 lowering springs 1.6/1.8, TRD Rear Sway Bar, Tanabe Front Sway Bar, Micro Image Short Throw Shift Kit (both in and under), 8.64lbs flywheel, F1 Stage 4 Clutch, AEM Cold Air Intake (Red), Megan Racing Header, DC Sports Axle Back Exhaust, Micro Image Crank Pulley, NST lite Alternator Pulley, ARP Manifold Stud Kit,Tanabe Front Strut Tower Brace, ScanGuage II, Micro Image Silicone Radiator Hose Kit (Red), NRG Carbon Fiber Shift Knob (round), 2009-2011 Toyota Yaris Liftback Foglight kit, NRG Grounding Kit (Red), Hella Horns(Red),CF Hood
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Old 06-15-2012, 03:29 PM   #164
Only Happy When it Rains
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Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
Do you see the point if they intend to push it to 250-300? Because that's what's up on this build.

Let's just leave it alone, guys and enjoy the hell out of pimp's build.
Leaving it alone is boring, if I'm flat out wrong we might as well figure it out now.

1.The problem is every modern straight engine I've seen the experience ends up like Dent Guys:
Originally Posted by DentGuy View Post
When you start doing things like "knife edging" the crank or offset grinding the journals then it can really mess with the balance or a rotating assembly. The machine shop all of us local guys use (including Sound Performance and AMS) has never seen a 2J crank out of balance. During my first engine build I went over kill with the machine shop and had them do a dynamic balance of the entire rotating assy. (Wiseco pistons, Carillo rods, ATI damper, RPS carbon clutch) Guess what... it need no adjustments.
Now im no Yaris expert but it seems to me that a clean and centered install of the Main caps will free up more power than having that .0001 grams balanced out of the crank. Certain motors will benifit from the additional balancing (V formats mainly) but Inline engines dont inflict the type of counteracting forces on the crank that the V styles engines do.

Now the reason for this is this is the main difference between straight engines and V engines. V engines are V because the harmonic differences offset each other with the degree of the V. Which is why the angle is different between v4, v6, v8 , etc.

Flat engines don't have any of that vibration, because they are in a row, all working the exact same way in the same directions. Which is also why the harmonic dampeners on our cars are basically nonexistent.

2. It simply isn't cheap. Anyone who says they can balance your engine for $250 has no idea what they are doing. There is a reason balancing and blueprinting go hand in hand, they are basically the same type of labor, Anyone who you would trust to do this isn't going to be cheap. It is going to be at least $1000, probably more, depending on how familiar the person is with the engine in question. Just think about it, the engine at the least has to be disassembled and reassembled.

Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
I didn't balance my lower end -- doin' just fine over here.

Unless you go the "blank check" route, you have to make choices on which motor work to do that will get you "just a little bit more".
I chose to do what would make the most power for the money I could spend on my build.

Hasn't been a reliability issue - at all.
This is the real crux of the issue.
Originally Posted by Blown_xa View Post
Yea mine is balanced. The 1nzfe shortblock we offer comes balanced... I can't compare a non balanced motor because every one we assemble is. The machine shop who handles our motors includes balancing the rotation assembly in the process. Rods come back numbered for specific assembly order. My built motor has over 40k on it now ( not easy miles , trust me).... is it because it is balanced ? I couldn't say
I am sure they are blueprinted as well, right? For a competition engine there is no reason for it not to be.

Just like I know engines in the top racing series are all balanced.blueprinted, etc. It would be dumb to not do it.

Basically V engines and straight engines are two very different beasts when it comes to vibration.

Here's the real thing though, I don't know anyone with a modern straight engine who's ever done it and the car needed it. Like Blown Xa said, it could be insurance money. so if you know a great engine builder and have the extra couple of grand on hand, you might as well go have it done.

But as Dent Guy said, if you're on a budget there are many better things to put your money toward.

Now come on, prove me wrong. Show me the results of all these straight engines and their extensive balancing reports.
Colin Chapman disciple
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:46 AM   #165
Drives: 2007 3dr hb 5sp
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Originally Posted by pimp my yaris View Post
I know that warming fuel in the tank has a negative affect on fuel mileage. This is the whole reason of new cars going with the returnless system.
Warm fuel atomizes better in the chamber... better mpg. returnless is purely emissions based and cost cutting. Hot fuel and air charge do increase risk of "ping" tho.
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:16 AM   #166
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Just a quick tip. Hoppe's gun cleaning solvent is a great tool for applying to your engine fasteners prior to trying to break them loose. Squirt some on each fastener, and it will help counter the effects of dissimilar metal corrosion (shank siezing) between the steel bolts and aluminum block, head, etc. Just make sure to allow it plenty of time to "wick" down into where it needs to go.
Why strive for a JDM BB, when you can promote the Scion badge?
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:30 AM   #167
play every day
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Oooh... Hoppes #9. The shooter's perfume.
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