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Old 05-04-2012, 07:46 AM   #37
ROCKLAND TOYOTA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schizoprenia View Post
is that the picture of a used engine you got to replace the original broken one?

how much does it cost for a block like that, over there?
i got a 2008 motor out of a sedan for $800 with 38K. it was complete from head to pan.....
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:21 AM   #38
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I have a short block I'm selling for $200, and full motors go for $500-$1000, depending on mileage and completeness, etc.
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Old 05-04-2012, 07:00 PM   #39
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I bought that 2001 Complete Echo motor with 80K miles for 350$. The only thing they took off were the starter and alternator. Now I have a extra intake, cable throttle body and fuel rail that I will modify with a return line soon.
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Old 05-04-2012, 11:42 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by pimp my yaris View Post
I bought that 2001 Complete Echo motor with 80K miles for 350$. The only thing they took off were the starter and alternator. Now I have a extra intake, cable throttle body and fuel rail that I will modify with a return line soon.
I bought my motor with 23k on it for 550 last week from an 09. It came with just about the same minus the TB and intake which I would find useless for me anyway. The only real disappointment with it was that the water pump pulley assembly was warped so it is good that mine is fine. I did get lucky though even to having a drop off point with a fork lift to save on the debarkment from the big rig.
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:33 AM   #41
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I see there are more 1nz engines on ebay for around 500 too.
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Old 05-05-2012, 03:00 PM   #42
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It's great to know they're so abundantly available at beyond great prices. I've always wanted to pull a motor (but I'm in no hurry ).
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:50 AM   #43
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Junk yard motor breakdown. New rods and pistons to arrive on 5-9
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:53 AM   #44
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These stampings on the crank are needed by the dealer to get the exact size replacement main journal bearings for a rebuild.
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:55 AM   #45
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Same goes for rod bearings.
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:24 PM   #46
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Loving how well documented this is
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Old 05-06-2012, 03:43 PM   #47
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me too.
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:46 PM   #48
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One thing I have learned with all this engine work is that every bolt and fastener on this car is very small. These bolts do not hold up well in a northern climate where salt is used to melt snow on roads in the winter. I was a little disapointed in toyota quality in this regard. I had a lot of frozen bolts on the motor and some came out with the aluminum threads on the bolt. Some bolt heads just looked like a ball of rust. My car is a 2009 with 60K miles. Should not be this bad. Dumping this much money is this car I may need a second beater so my ride does not rust away. Chicago sucks.
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:48 PM   #49
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Not really sure that you can blame the automotive manufacturers when it comes to the environments that the autos reside in. Different regions offer different chemical and environmental hurdles. Now if I had purchased an LS or ES Lexus then I would tend to become more irritated with them since you are taking 36-76k for the car, but on a 12-15k car they are not going to have the most resilent alloys for parts unfortunately. I am feeling your pain as well right now. That is why I am upgrading to ARP bolts/studs. They may add up to a lot, but worth it in the end.

As for the documentation, this is great to know for sure!
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:25 AM   #50
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Not really sure that you can blame the automotive manufacturers when it comes to the environments that the autos reside in. Different regions offer different chemical and environmental hurdles. Now if I had purchased an LS or ES Lexus then I would tend to become more irritated with them since you are taking 36-76k for the car, but on a 12-15k car they are not going to have the most resilent alloys for parts unfortunately. I am feeling your pain as well right now. That is why I am upgrading to ARP bolts/studs. They may add up to a lot, but worth it in the end.
I've had bolts snap that shouldn't, the metal just seems weak.
Case in point, my alternator adjustment bolt (the top bolt), snapped in the case of the alternator. I've never had that happen, and I wasn't even putting a ton of force on it when it happened. Same for the other bolts I've snapped.

If you remove any bolts, definitely grease them before putting them back in LOL


Good pics of the disassembly!
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:47 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by pimp my yaris View Post
One thing I have learned with all this engine work is that every bolt and fastener on this car is very small. These bolts do not hold up well in a northern climate where salt is used to melt snow on roads in the winter. I was a little disapointed in toyota quality in this regard. I had a lot of frozen bolts on the motor and some came out with the aluminum threads on the bolt. Some bolt heads just looked like a ball of rust. My car is a 2009 with 60K miles. Should not be this bad. Dumping this much money is this car I may need a second beater so my ride does not rust away. Chicago sucks.
I don't know about Chicago, but I swear since I started driving about 5 years ago that the amount of road salt used has increased drastically...
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Old 05-08-2012, 02:15 PM   #52
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I don't know about Chicago, but I swear since I started driving about 5 years ago that the amount of road salt used has increased drastically...

My motor blowing up is a direct result of the chemicals they put down on the roadways in my county. Believe it or not I actually took great pics over to my city office to show them that they need to reconsider their choice in winter roadway safety techniques. Heaven forbid ot causes failure or steering or suspension components causing and accident with the end reault being death or dismemberment. It is also because of that solution thy use that my lower alternator bolt head was fubar along with other bolts I have removed.
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:57 PM   #53
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My alternator is still in the engine compartment. It could not be seperated from the positive battery cable. It started to twist the stud even after letting it soak overnight in penatrating oil. I let it be, and its still attached to the harness. I also had problems with alternator and A/C compressor mounting bolts and T-stat studs, bypass tube studs and dip stick hold down. My previous car was a 93 lexus sc300 with 178,000 mi. I never had problems like this. This car seems disposable by comparison.
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:49 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fnkngrv View Post
Not really sure that you can blame the automotive manufacturers when it comes to the environments that the autos reside in. Different regions offer different chemical and environmental hurdles. Now if I had purchased an LS or ES Lexus then I would tend to become more irritated with them since you are taking 36-76k for the car, but on a 12-15k car they are not going to have the most resilent alloys for parts unfortunately. I am feeling your pain as well right now. That is why I am upgrading to ARP bolts/studs. They may add up to a lot, but worth it in the end.

As for the documentation, this is great to know for sure!
SO your saying that lexus(TOYOTA) uses better grade materials on its vehicles??? you do know its all the same stuff right....
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