Turbo build - stage 1:D - Toyota Yaris Forums

abstractmethod · 02-21-2014, 01:37 AM

Hi guys,
just wanted to post some progress shots of my stage 1 turbo build, more so i can keep track and not loose photos in the process.

Purchased my self a 1NZ-FE motor to work on so my car wouldnt be off the road, just landed a job with Samsung and a 2 minute walk from home so wouldnt have mattered any way.

So far we've got the following parts:

* 2ZZ injectors
* Zage manifold (custom one to be built by Brae manifolds down the track, check him out at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Brae-...7816811564704_

*T28 turbo running customer oil and water lines (yes im using both)
* Turbosmart black FPR800 fuel pressure reg
* Turbosmart Kompact plumb back BOV
* Golden eagle black fuel rail
* Microtech LTX-8
* Custom black piping
* Bosch 040 fuel pump - in tank mod needed

Ill keep up to date with some photos as the build progresses.

abstractmethod · 02-22-2014, 12:10 AM

All the water lines and oil lines were ordered today, used a mob in Japan who stock Kinugawa turbo's, their stuff has always been really good quality. Will post pics once they arrive and they have been installed.

bebeelo · 02-22-2014, 04:11 AM

just curious...how much is this build going to cost?

abstractmethod · 02-22-2014, 04:15 AM

There is no budget. Stage 1 will be manifold, turbo, microtech and injectors. Stage 2 will built on a separate motor were I can take time to fit rods, pistons, valves and cam so the car is not taken off the road.

cali yaris · 02-22-2014, 10:46 AM

THUMBS UP! [subscribed]

abstractmethod · 02-26-2014, 05:43 AM

So after a lot of thought, research and thinking of building the motor, then installing it, running it in, driving it around, removing it for stage 2, i just decided to bite the bullet and skip straight to stage 2...

Today's progress consisted of removing the intake manifold, water pump, spark plugs, engine mount, timing cover, cams and turbo.

Unfortunately for me i stripped three of the head bolts, will rectify this next monday and finally get the head off, get it sussed out and order rods, pistons, bearings, block guard etc...

I also decided not to go the microtech route, I will be ordering a Haltec P1000 ECU or Link G4.

Here are a few photos from today.

cali yaris · 02-26-2014, 09:56 AM

I believe ARP has a head stud kit now. Let us know if you need any parts for your build, we are very competitive.

abstractmethod · 02-26-2014, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

I believe ARP has a head stud kit now. Let us know if you need any parts for your build, we are very competitive.

Hi there and thanks for the reply. Already sent you a Msg just waiting on reply

Golddeenoh · 02-26-2014, 04:39 PM

Just be like me and have MI set to speed dial.

why do I ,because

abstractmethod · 02-27-2014, 04:38 AM

Haha I'm from Aus so I'd be paying a hefty bill in international call charges.

Doing some research on rods and pistons. Seems Cp-corello are about the only guys doing forged pistons off the shelf... Do MI normally reply quickly?

fnkngrv · 02-27-2014, 08:15 PM

CP is a great choice for pistons. There are several options for rods; pauter, carillo, cunningham, etc.

Bluevitz-rs · 02-27-2014, 10:10 PM

Garm do you know what rods require the block to be notched?

abstractmethod · 02-27-2014, 10:29 PM

What's the deal with notching the block? I haven't heard of this needing to be done before?

Bluevitz-rs · 02-27-2014, 10:34 PM

Well the 1NZ block has the crankshaft 3° offset to the bore to improve power stroke pushing angle. It reduces loads in the power stroke but increases stress on the rod on compression. The aftermarket rods being beefier hit the side of the block. Well some do and some don't. Actually I think it's more the side of the bore than the block.

abstractmethod · 02-28-2014, 02:47 AM

I'm still waiting in MI to get back to me regarding rods and piston advice.. I guess most engine workshops will have the ability to notch the block if needed.

Today I ordered my haltech p1000 ecu, wide and sensor and march boost controller which integrates with the p1000.

cali yaris · 02-28-2014, 10:18 AM

^ I got back to you. You PM'ed me four hours ago.

Quote:

Garm do you know what rods require the block to be notched?

All of them. They are all thicker than stock (that's kind of the point), and so require the mod.

abstractmethod · 02-28-2014, 04:20 PM

Thanks mate. I had issues sending you a message for days hahaha. Every time I sent one it wouldn't give me confirmation so I was like "uhhhhhh has it sent".. downside to using this forum from a phone lol

abstractmethod · 03-03-2014, 05:09 AM

So as you know I stripped the head bolts.. Mainly because I used the wrong tool.. finally found the right 12" spline after purchasing 2 supposedly correct splines that were listed in online 1nz-fe engine disassembly threads.. aus delivered engines must use different studs for some reason.. any ways I eventually got the right one $84 later :S ridiculous huh!

02-21-2014, 01:37 AM	#1
abstractmethod Drives: Toyota Echo Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Australia Posts: 23	Turbo build - stage 1:D Hi guys, just wanted to post some progress shots of my stage 1 turbo build, more so i can keep track and not loose photos in the process. Purchased my self a 1NZ-FE motor to work on so my car wouldnt be off the road, just landed a job with Samsung and a 2 minute walk from home so wouldnt have mattered any way. So far we've got the following parts: * 2ZZ injectors * Zage manifold (custom one to be built by Brae manifolds down the track, check him out at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Brae-...7816811564704_ T28 turbo running customer oil and water lines (yes im using both) Turbosmart black FPR800 fuel pressure reg * Turbosmart Kompact plumb back BOV * Golden eagle black fuel rail * Microtech LTX-8 * Custom black piping * Bosch 040 fuel pump - in tank mod needed Ill keep up to date with some photos as the build progresses. Last edited by abstractmethod; 02-26-2014 at 05:46 AM.

02-22-2014, 04:11 AM	#3
bebeelo ThatYarisGuy View User's Garage Drives: Toyota Yaris 2012 SE Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Stockton, CA Posts: 126	just curious...how much is this build going to cost? __________________

02-22-2014, 10:46 AM	#5
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	THUMBS UP! [subscribed] __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

02-26-2014, 05:43 AM	#6
abstractmethod Drives: Toyota Echo Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Australia Posts: 23	So after a lot of thought, research and thinking of building the motor, then installing it, running it in, driving it around, removing it for stage 2, i just decided to bite the bullet and skip straight to stage 2... Today's progress consisted of removing the intake manifold, water pump, spark plugs, engine mount, timing cover, cams and turbo. Unfortunately for me i stripped three of the head bolts, will rectify this next monday and finally get the head off, get it sussed out and order rods, pistons, bearings, block guard etc... I also decided not to go the microtech route, I will be ordering a Haltec P1000 ECU or Link G4. Here are a few photos from today. Last edited by abstractmethod; 02-26-2014 at 05:57 AM.

02-26-2014, 09:56 AM	#7
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	I believe ARP has a head stud kit now. Let us know if you need any parts for your build, we are very competitive. __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

02-22-2014, 12:10 AM	#2
abstractmethod Drives: Toyota Echo Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Australia Posts: 23	All the water lines and oil lines were ordered today, used a mob in Japan who stock Kinugawa turbo's, their stuff has always been really good quality. Will post pics once they arrive and they have been installed.

02-22-2014, 04:15 AM	#4
abstractmethod Drives: Toyota Echo Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Australia Posts: 23	There is no budget. Stage 1 will be manifold, turbo, microtech and injectors. Stage 2 will built on a separate motor were I can take time to fit rods, pistons, valves and cam so the car is not taken off the road.

02-26-2014, 04:39 PM	#9
Golddeenoh Takes corners too fast! View User's Garage Drives: Absolute Red 2009 Yaris HB Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 830	Just be like me and have MI set to speed dial. why do I ,because __________________ mods:15''Drag DR21 w/Nitto NeoGen 205/50R15, Tanabe DF210 lowering springs 1.6/1.8, TRD Rear Sway Bar, Tanabe Front Sway Bar, Micro Image Short Throw Shift Kit (both in and under), 8.64lbs flywheel, F1 Stage 4 Clutch, AEM Cold Air Intake (Red), Megan Racing Header, DC Sports Axle Back Exhaust, Micro Image Crank Pulley, NST lite Alternator Pulley, ARP Manifold Stud Kit,Tanabe Front Strut Tower Brace, ScanGuage II, Micro Image Silicone Radiator Hose Kit (Red), NRG Carbon Fiber Shift Knob (round), 2009-2011 Toyota Yaris Liftback Foglight kit, NRG Grounding Kit (Red), Hella Horns(Red),CF Hood

02-27-2014, 04:38 AM	#10
abstractmethod Drives: Toyota Echo Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Australia Posts: 23	Haha I'm from Aus so I'd be paying a hefty bill in international call charges. Doing some research on rods and pistons. Seems Cp-corello are about the only guys doing forged pistons off the shelf... Do MI normally reply quickly?

02-27-2014, 08:15 PM	#11
fnkngrv Mr. 155 and climbing View User's Garage Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: In The Hotbox Posts: 4,742	CP is a great choice for pistons. There are several options for rods; pauter, carillo, cunningham, etc. __________________ Team Tiamat Racing on Facebook Youtube Channel: Team Tiamat Racing *Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes.*

02-27-2014, 10:10 PM	#12
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	Garm do you know what rods require the block to be notched?

02-27-2014, 10:29 PM	#13
abstractmethod Drives: Toyota Echo Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Australia Posts: 23	What's the deal with notching the block? I haven't heard of this needing to be done before?

02-27-2014, 10:34 PM	#14
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	Well the 1NZ block has the crankshaft 3° offset to the bore to improve power stroke pushing angle. It reduces loads in the power stroke but increases stress on the rod on compression. The aftermarket rods being beefier hit the side of the block. Well some do and some don't. Actually I think it's more the side of the bore than the block.

02-28-2014, 02:47 AM	#15
abstractmethod Drives: Toyota Echo Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Australia Posts: 23	I'm still waiting in MI to get back to me regarding rods and piston advice.. I guess most engine workshops will have the ability to notch the block if needed. Today I ordered my haltech p1000 ecu, wide and sensor and march boost controller which integrates with the p1000.

02-28-2014, 04:20 PM	#17
abstractmethod Drives: Toyota Echo Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Australia Posts: 23	Thanks mate. I had issues sending you a message for days hahaha. Every time I sent one it wouldn't give me confirmation so I was like "uhhhhhh has it sent".. downside to using this forum from a phone lol

03-03-2014, 05:09 AM	#18
abstractmethod Drives: Toyota Echo Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Australia Posts: 23	So as you know I stripped the head bolts.. Mainly because I used the wrong tool.. finally found the right 12" spline after purchasing 2 supposedly correct splines that were listed in online 1nz-fe engine disassembly threads.. aus delivered engines must use different studs for some reason.. any ways I eventually got the right one $84 later :S ridiculous huh!

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