2ZR Turbo Yaris

[tmontague]

looks good and seems you have it all well sorted in terms of potential hose leaks due to abrasion.

I'm looking forward to the F/I/C wiring and your thoughts on that as well as the tuners thoughts on it. Good work!

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

looks good and seems you have it all well sorted in terms of potential hose leaks due to abrasion.

I'm looking forward to the F/I/C wiring and your thoughts on that as well as the tuners thoughts on it. Good work!

Thanks. Yeah, there are a lot of potential leak points in a project of this nature: coolant, oil, water etc. Fingers are crossed, lol.

I too am eagerly anticipating the F/IC wiring outcome.

[06YarisRS]

Started the trans fan wiring

I only had about a half hour to work on the car tonight, but I got the wiring test routed and measured. I'm going to run two extra wires through the conduit; one for a future trans temp gauge and an oil temp gauge sensors. I've already talked about the trans temp hook up plans, but the oil gauge will be pan via the drain plug. I found a nifty 12M x 1.25 to 1.8" NPT fitting that comes with a copper crush washer. I just remove the oil plug, put the sensor in the fitting and screw it in like a normal drain pan bolt. Although the pan is probably not the best spot to monitor, this is without a doubt the simplest route. The oil from the turbo return line comes out close to where the sensor sits, so the reading may be close to indicative of one of the hottest parts of the lubrication system. I may not do these two gauges right away, but I've got all the fittings for both and will have the necessary wires in position when the time comes.

A little preliminary wiring. I'm using 14 gauge stranded automotive primary wire. It's very heavy, solid wire and my run will only be about 3' long and fan amp draw is around 8 amps, so well within safety margins. I remove the plastic terminal protectors, crimp, solder and heat shrink terminal ends and braid, solder and heat shrink all inline connections. I used good quality heat shrink; the kind that oozes out a nice gooey, glue-like substance that really seals well. All wires will run through loom and be completely taped. No moisture getting in here, lol. The loom will be ziptied to the chassis along the way.

[myfirstyota]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Started the trans fan wiring

I only had about a half hour to work on the car tonight, but I got the wiring test routed and measured. I'm going to run two extra wires through the conduit; one for a future trans temp gauge and an oil temp gauge sensors. I've already talked about the trans temp hook up plans, but the oil gauge will be pan via the drain plug. I found a nifty 12M x 1.25 to 1.8" NPT fitting that comes with a copper crush washer. I just remove the oil plug, put the sensor in the fitting and screw it in like a normal drain pan bolt. Although the pan is probably not the best spot to monitor, this is without a doubt the simplest route. The oil from the turbo return line comes out close to where the sensor sits, so the reading may be close to indicative of one of the hottest parts of the lubrication system. I may not do these two gauges right away, but I've got all the fittings for both and will have the necessary wires in position when the time comes.

A little preliminary wiring. I'm using 14 gauge stranded automotive primary wire. It's very heavy, solid wire and my run will only be about 3' long and fan amp draw is around 8 amps, so well within safety margins. I remove the plastic terminal protectors, crimp, solder and heat shrink terminal ends and braid, solder and heat shrink all inline connections. I used good quality heat shrink; the kind that oozes out a nice gooey, glue-like substance that really seals well. All wires will run through loom and be completely taped. No moisture getting in here, lol. The loom will be ziptied to the chassis along the way.

I've made the mistake of trusting the plastic insulators on crimp connectors. Long story short I almost burned my car down. Solder and shrink wrap is the way to go.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by myfirstyota

I've made the mistake of trusting the plastic insulators on crimp connectors. Long story short I almost burned my car down. Solder and shrink wrap is the way to go.

Absolutely! They're little water traps too.

Edit: Haha, I see I actually left one of the insulators on my ground. Will have to redo that connection. This circuit will likely max out around 8 amps, so maybe I'll pack it with something to keep the water out.

[06YarisRS]

A little wiring for the trans fan

I decided to go with a relay since I had one gathering dust on my shelf. Here's a drawing of my wiring schematic.



And a little more soldering/heat shrinking for the relay ground. I got this attached but no pic.



Relay mounted. Terminals will also get the soldering and heat shrink. I've got some really big heat shrink, so I'll likely cinch up the split loom that all comes together there.

[myfirstyota]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

A little wiring for the trans fan

I decided to go with a relay since I had one gathering dust on my shelf. Here's a drawing of my wiring schematic.



And a little more soldering/heat shrinking for the relay ground. I got this attached but no pic.



Relay mounted. Terminals will also get the soldering and heat shrink. I've got some really big heat shrink, so I'll likely cinch up the split loom that all comes together there.

One thing I've noticed is these cheap relays (not sure if yours is) don't fair well in the open elements (or the engine bay). I've had a few relay failures that were mounted in the engine bay. I'd look into a waterproof one or slather the bottom of the relay (along the seams) in grease to keep moisture out. Food for thought.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by myfirstyota

One thing I've noticed is these cheap relays (not sure if yours is) don't fair well in the open elements (or the engine bay). I've had a few relay failures that were mounted in the engine bay. I'd look into a waterproof one or slather the bottom of the relay (along the seams) in grease to keep moisture out. Food for thought.

Yes! I was looking it over and it doesn't look waterproof. I did wonder about that. I actually thought about coating the bottom in RTV sealant as it's rated for several hundred degrees. I may just pick up a waterproof one as per your suggestion. It would be a simple, couple minute job to remove this one and install a waterproof one.

[tmontague]

solid electrical work, looking good.

I personally always have used the plastic insulated terminal and only crimp (properly) and then always cover in heat shrink even if it it internal. I have never had an electrical issue due to one of my connections. The key think I think it heat shrinking it so no moisture can get in. I would never just crimp and leave as is. I have used the crazy uber expensive glue like heat shrink from CT and as much as I like it, I find that my large case of various size heat shrink I bought off ebay does a good enough job at completely sealing even though it doesn't ooze out glue. IIRC its the stuff that shrinks down 3+ times its size that has the glue. The cheaper 2:1 shrinking stuff doesn't ooze out as much nor does it become rock hard once shrunk.

Also to add to the discussion, that relay looks like the one I have currently for my dual horn set up. I have mine installed just like yours but on the other side of my engine bay and all I have done it put dielectric grease on the terminals for ease of removing them if needed. In 3 or so years my relay hasn't had an issue. It doesn't get exposed to extreme heat where it is located and it not upside down so no water can pool in it. However, a waterproof relay would be ideal.

I did have an electrical failure last year on my horns and somehow one of the smaller gauge wire had an internal failure and wouldn't send power signal to the horns from the relay. That wire sits right in front of my grill and it exposed to everything bad. I also don't think I put heat shrink on the ring terminal end at the horns. Likely water got in that way and corroded the wire. Oddly enough my multi meter would show continuity through that wire but yet it wouldn't sent power through it...

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

solid electrical work, looking good.

I personally always have used the plastic insulated terminal and only crimp (properly) and then always cover in heat shrink even if it it internal. I have never had an electrical issue due to one of my connections. The key think I think it heat shrinking it so no moisture can get in. I would never just crimp and leave as is. I have used the crazy uber expensive glue like heat shrink from CT and as much as I like it, I find that my large case of various size heat shrink I bought off ebay does a good enough job at completely sealing even though it doesn't ooze out glue. IIRC its the stuff that shrinks down 3+ times its size that has the glue. The cheaper 2:1 shrinking stuff doesn't ooze out as much nor does it become rock hard once shrunk.

Also to add to the discussion, that relay looks like the one I have currently for my dual horn set up. I have mine installed just like yours but on the other side of my engine bay and all I have done it put dielectric grease on the terminals for ease of removing them if needed. In 3 or so years my relay hasn't had an issue. It doesn't get exposed to extreme heat where it is located and it not upside down so no water can pool in it. However, a waterproof relay would be ideal.

I did have an electrical failure last year on my horns and somehow one of the smaller gauge wire had an internal failure and wouldn't send power signal to the horns from the relay. That wire sits right in front of my grill and it exposed to everything bad. I also don't think I put heat shrink on the ring terminal end at the horns. Likely water got in that way and corroded the wire. Oddly enough my multi meter would show continuity through that wire but yet it wouldn't sent power through it...

Thanks. I called all around and no one was aware of a "waterproof" relay. I was told by all of them that water shouldn't get in, especially if it's in an area doesn't get spray. I was also advised by at least two places to do as you did and use dielectric grease. They said that unless I submerge the relay in water, it should be fine. That said, eBay has many that have a rubber coupler that seals the pins. At least if I have trouble, I'll know where to get one.

[06YarisRS]

Trans Fan Wiring installation started

With a bit of available time tonight I got from the battery to the relay power supply run. It's fused with a 20 amp fuse. It will be tidied up and secured behind the battery, high up so the fuse is accessible.



It runs behind the battery and down behind the fuse box. A switched wire from the fuse box joins the leg here



Then, on to the relay. Terminals aren't seated yet, but will be after all wiring/loom is secured. You can see the next leg to the right in the pic. It's just draped over the engine for now.



The blue wire runs from the sensor back to the relay. The pink/white wire is the switched 12V and runs to the other sensor pin. Finally the black 14 GA wire goes from the relay to the fan +



I have a good route with lots of attach points; well away from any heat sources and would be chaffing areas.



Sensor wires ready to go into loom heading toward bottom of engine bay. Fan positive is done.



Loom traveling across above radiator. Not secured with zip ties yet.



Final leg of harness going down to sensor.





Here's a couple for fun. Picked up my valve cover breather. I peeked inside with my borescope to see how well built the filter is.

[06YarisRS]

Valve Cover Breather Install and Engine Cover Test Fit

The breather I bought will accept either a 3/8" or 1/2" barb. The valve cover hose is about 5/8" ID. I was having difficulty finding a fitting that would reduce down until I remembered the Sharkbite Pex fittings. I picked up a 3/4" x 1/2" Pex reducer coupling and it couldn't have worked better. It's nice and tight, only requiring moderate pressue to insert into the breather and the breather hose. I just need to ziptie the hose to the block as it flops around a bit now.






Engine cover test fit. Very happy that nothing interferes with the cover. It fits as though there were no mods done to the car at all. In the interest of tidying up the engine bay, I'm going to hunt for some large split loom for those red amplifier wires. I think it will look a lot better.

[06YarisRS]

Frame Painting Touchups

I've been doing this all throughout the project. I figured while I had all the plastic shrouds off, I'd touch up the frame here and there. These had the occasional spots of surface rust, mainly where the plastic shrouds abrade the paint. I degreased, sanded, degreased and gave several coats of ceramic VHT paint, drying the layers with my heat gun. This stuff is really durable. Once it's cured in a few days, I'll blast it all with Fluid Film and spray the frame insides again with Rust Check red.

[CrankyOldMan]

Awesome work!

I'm regretting not doing something similar with the paint on mine when I did the 2ZR swap. I pulled the bumpers off this weekend to make the clutch replacement easier and it's a mess where the parts didn't get painted during the original factory dip. Any suggestions for fixing moderate surface rust in that area?

[06YarisRS]

Hey Sam. Can you snap a few pics of what you're talking about? I don't imagine it's something a coarse wire wheel, some phosphoric acid (rust converter), primer and paint couldn't take care of.

[tmontague]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Frame Painting Touchups

I've been doing this all throughout the project. I figured while I had all the plastic shrouds off, I'd touch up the frame here and there. These had the occasional spots of surface rust, mainly where the plastic shrouds abrade the paint. I degreased, sanded, degreased and gave several coats of ceramic VHT paint, drying the layers with my heat gun. This stuff is really durable. Once it's cured in a few days, I'll blast it all with Fluid Film and spray the frame insides again with Rust Check red.

looks clean.

That breather hose that normally see's vacuum and now is vented to atmosphere do you foresee any issues with that? I've read varying things online about removing the vacuum from breather hoses potentially causing problems in a system designed for vacuum.

That said I would think you should be perfectly fine seeing as that hose is upstream of the TB and therefore doesn't actually see much vacuum at all. It would see minimal vacuum at idle and during WOT there is little vacuum anyways

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

looks clean.

That breather hose that normally see's vacuum and now is vented to atmosphere do you foresee any issues with that? I've read varying things online about removing the vacuum from breather hoses potentially causing problems in a system designed for vacuum.

That said I would think you should be perfectly fine seeing as that hose is upstream of the TB and therefore doesn't actually see much vacuum at all. It would see minimal vacuum at idle and during WOT there is little vacuum anyways

I wondered about the vacuum too, but am following the advice of the turbokits guys. Since the charge pipe that attaches to the throttlebody doesn't have an inlet, there's no place to reintroduce the unburned gasses. I thought about installing a second catch can and plumbing it back into the pipe just before the throttlebody (like the OEM setup), but then I'd run into problems when boost is present. It would probably require a check valve to keep boost from going back into the engine via the valve cover. I know what vacuum leaks can do and I wouldn't be very happy if my idles is erratic, or high due to a vacuum leak. I hope it works as it's supposed to and the other guy I've been talking to at toyotanation has the same setup and apparently hasn't experienced any issues.

The other thing I had wondered about is the brake booster under boost. I guess there is a check valve in that system that will prevent boost going back to the brake booster.

[06YarisRS]

Vacuum Lines

Started installing the vacuum lines. For my setup I only need to supply vacuum to two locations: the blowoff valve and the AEM F/IC. I already installed the wastegate actuator to wastegate boost hose. I am way short on hose since I'm going to install the F/IC inside the car behind the glovebox. I'll need about a 3 foot piece of vacuum hose to complete this job. All connections will be ziptied or possibly clamped.

First Tee tapped into the vacuum supply from the manifold. I may source some brass tees for the vacuum taps as these plastic ones seem a little flimsy.



BOV vacuum hose. The wires in the center of the pic will be moved and secured. They are just hanging there now.



Decided to touch up the wiper tray support. It was fairly rust free, but a few minutes time invested made for good results. It too will be saturated with Fluid Film before the wiper tray is reattached.



I ordered another -4AN oil supply feed line tonight. The one that came with the kit is about 40" long and would be very difficult to install in my car without coiling it up and risking it scraping on body or engine parts. The one I bought is 24" and should fit perfectly as I did measurements with the 40" hose and marked it to the appropriate length with electrical tape.