2ZR Turbo Yaris

[CrankyOldMan]

What code?

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

What code?

P0101

[06YarisRS]

Gauge oil pressure sender install

This is a job I had been avoiding for a bit as I wasn't thrilled about messing with my turbo oil supply line that taps into the car's oil pressure sensor port. My believe is that each time you mess with it, you increase the chances of leaks occuring. I had planned to remote mount the OP sending unit and bought a bunch of stuff, but there was simply no way to route the hose (grease gun hose and various fittings) that wouldn't result in the hose chaffing on the engine or frame. This, of course, could result in oil loss and potential catastrophic turbo and engine failure. There just isn't enough room to install the hose and its fittings. So, I added a short 1/8" NPT brass tee and attached the OP sender to that. The fitting structure coming out of the block is extremely secure and strong. Pretty sure you could hang a house off of it.

I have one wire left to connect - the ACC power wire - which I will tap into the grey wire for the power outlet (cigarette lighter) at junction D14 just below and a little left of the steering column. Hope to do this this afternoon, fire up the car and test the gauges.

Tapping for OP sender ground. There is a little recess in the plastic shield, so I marked the perfect spot. The shield will re-install without touching the ground bolt.



Soldered ring terminal for the OP sensor ground. I had to drill the ring terminal out as the #6 bolt would not fit through.



Finished ground. Love the Grote 4 times shrinking heat shrink with adhesive, for a water tight seal.



A couple shots of the OP sensor mounted.



I adjusted the ground wire for the best flex. Still some taping to do. I taped off the harness and spray painted the bolt and area that I'd sanded to the metal. I'll blast rustproofing down inside the frame channel via the factory holes to where the bolt comes through to deter rust.



I had to drill a hole in one of the block tabs in order to have a place to attach the oil temp sensor harness.



There was nowhere reasonable to ground the oil pan temp sensor under the car so I added a grounding point to the strut tower by using an existing threaded hole. I just ran the ground wire back up the conduit that contains the sensor wire.

I also lengthened and tucked away the park light power source harness leg as I didn't like to diagonally crossing the strut tower.

[ern-diz]

I'm enjoying how thorough, meticulous and clean you are with everything. It's a mild OCD's dream.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by ern-diz

I'm enjoying how thorough, meticulous and clean you are with everything. It's a mild OCD's dream.

Haha. Thanks ern-diz! I does satisfy my own mild OCD. Let's see how truly OCD I get when the car is tuned. I like everything (engine and other components) to work as smooth and refined as stock. Hope I don't go falling down any rabbit holes LOL.

[06YarisRS]

F/IC...

In my attempts to restore my edited CAL file (after I adjusted the injector size and the car stalled and wouldn't start), I had forgotten to calibrate the F/IC for TPS and RPM. The RPM was off by about 350. Once I calibrated it, the car/torque and the F/IC are pretty much dead on. I'm showing no codes at the moment, but not optimistic that a couple won't show up after a few driving cycles. After the car heats up to operating temp, I am running a tad rich at idle, but it corrects quickly and returns to stoich. I'm optimistic that adjustments in the fuel and MAF tables will correct this. Also, my rear 02 sensor isn't hooked up (will be later today with a couple of defoulers as I have no CAT). I read that the rear O2 sensor does provide feedback that has an influence on fueling.

[06YarisRS]

Gauges operational

The pics do not in any way depict the depth, sharpness and brightness of these gauges. I had to use my flash as the non-flash version of the pics were very burry.


I also tested my trans fan cooler/thermostat/fan setup. The fan fires up right around 185F and you can watch the temp slowly drop as soon as the fan kicks in.

White (daytime)




Blue (nightime)



Overall. Still have some work to do on those fuel trims. Once the revs come up, the STFT drops to close to zero and the LTFT starts dropping. The car is running a bit rich.

[06YarisRS]

Update...

Well, the car is running quite well, except that I am not getting any boost. I brought the car up to around 4000 rpm while watchng my manifold pressure gauge and the car stayed in vacuum. I spoke with my tuner and he - as well as the turbokits guys suspect a leak. Obviously, I'd prefer not to deal with this, but I'll chalk it up to another learning experience.

I have rigged up both a smoke tester and a pressure tester. I stole both of the ideas from youtube videos.

The smoke tester is a mason jar with two nipples; one for air (from my portable compressor with regulator), one for a hose that emits smoke. The burning will be achieved by mounting my soldering iron through the mason jar top and into a cloth or old sock soaked in baby oil. From what I've seen, it makes a lot of smoke.

The pressure tester, which will be used to test the charge piping, is basically a 2.5" elbow that I will attach the charge pipe at the throttle body. This end has a PVC cap with a fitting that attaches to my portable compressor as well. I will pick up a 0-30psi gauge at Canadian Tire ($5.99) and that will be screwed into the cap along with the fitting. The other end will plug off the pipe leaving the turbo compressor outlet. I tested the end caps and they can withstand quite a bit of pressure. With the gauge installed, I'll just start with low pressure similar to what my boost will be, 7 - 8 psi.

The smoke machine will be used to check for vacuum leaks.

[tmontague]

Great set up, could you hear anything from the engine bay that was indicative of a boost leak?

[06YarisRS]

Boost leak

I found a massive boost leak. It's at the funky piece that goes up over the subframe to join the inlet of the intercooler. I had to butcher that piece in order to make it fit. I'll need to order a few bits and pieces but will try adjusting the clamp while I wait for the parts. I may have other leaks to attend to as well, though that was definitely the most questionable union.

This - as suggested by Jesse at turbokits - is probably contributing to my fuel trims being a little whacky. Though I did have some fun tweaking the fuel map yesterday and I could see the improvements in te fuel trims as I made adjustments. I expect I'll have to go back to the preset map values after I fix this leak, and any others.


Pics to follow...

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Great set up, could you hear anything from the engine bay that was indicative of a boost leak?

Yes, you are correct!

[Leegamer]

It's not a turbo build if you don't have at least one major boost leak after putting it all back together.

[06YarisRS]

Boost leaks fixed!

Well, I learned how important it is to REALLY crank down hard on those T-Clamps. I reseated a couple of the clamps and cranked them down.

Here is my apparatus. It is made up of PVC plumbing caps, rubber couplers, clamps, a pressure gauge and fittings I had lying around. I had a 2.5" elbow left over from my charge piping work.

First, I tested the whole system from my air filter, custom 3" intake and right to the throttle body. I had several leaks, so I then decided to just do the charge side. You can see the cap I replaced my filter with down below.



I capped off the pipe coming out of the compressor outlet and tested from there to the throtte body. I had a total of 3 leaks. They were bad enough that my little compressor couldn't pump enough air to even move the needle of the gauge I have on my cap.



My BOV is leaking - not the connection but the BOV itself. Apparently, that's normal but I'm looking into that with turbokits. I plugged the BOV port with a piece of broom handle.



Holding ~20 psi. I got a little crazy and pressurized up to 25 just for a second and still no leaks. Very happy about this. I bet I'll have boost now.



Here is my smoke machine that I'll use for the vacuum testing. I may not have any vacuum leaks but it won't hurt to check.



This is after about 3 minutes after plugging in the soldering iron. If I let it go 5 minutes, it produces a phenomenal amount of smoke.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by Leegamer

It's not a turbo build if you don't have at least one major boost leak after putting it all back together.

Amen, Haha!

[06YarisRS]

Smoke test and shop tidying

Vacuum test revealed no leaks. Yay!



I opened the valve on the catch can.



I decided to tackle the mess in the shop.

[ern-diz]

[06YarisRS]

BOOST!

Well, I unexpectedly experienced ~ 4 psi of boost. I was down to an 1/8 of a tank of 87, so I poured in 1L of xylene and a 1/4 oz of atf, just for safety measures. I'll burn the tank down to the blinking light and fill up with 91 before the tune. I wanted to just get into boost 1 - 2 psi to test if I have boost, but the car had other plans. It happened quickly and pulled like a rocket. I didn't have time to clearly see the AFR, but out of the corner of my eye, it looked like it was in the 13s, so I'd say the map is doing its thing. There was no knocking at all. I can only imagine what this thing will do at around 7 - 8 psi.

After driving it a bit, I was able to enter about 1 - 2 pounds of boost in a fairly controlled fashion. It definitely pulls harder than the stock 2ZR even at low boost. It does appear to be not only rpm dependent but throttle position dependent. Boost came on strong a little over 3500 rpm. I hope that the tuner can figure out a way to bring boost on around 3000. From the get-go, I wondered if a T25 turbo would have been a better match for this car. It's smaller and would spool faster. The T28 would provide more power up high in the rpm range and likely not run out of steam well into the redline. In any event, I'll try my darndest to stay out of boost until I get my tune, which is this Saturday at 9:30 am. I'm going to request a conservative tune, but will take his advice. I did tell him that reliability is key and losing a few hp/ftlbs is fine in the interest of longevity.

It was so awesome to hear the BOV, but thankfully it's subtle, just a fairly quiet and quick 'PSST' sound. I imagine it will be a bit louder coming off 7 - 8 psi, but still quiet and sleeper-like.

Loving the gauges too. Oil pressure fluctuates between ~20 at idle to ~ 55 - 60 above 3000 rpm. Oil temps are hanging around 190F and trans temps are ~175F driving the car in a spirited fashion but not beating on it. I'm more confident that the car's cooling system will be more than capable of handling the extra power. I won't be calling for boost for extended periods of time.

[CrankyOldMan]

Congrats!!