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Old 10-13-2022, 10:58 AM   #19
Neinris
 
Drives: 08 Yaris 3 Door Hatchback
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remcafee View Post
47323-0d201 and 47324-0d201 are the part numbers for the left and right hard lines.
Thank you Remcafee... well fudge, I thought I found the correct part numbers. Would you be able to tell me what 47323-52110 and 47324-52100 are? Because those are what I ordered.

Quote:
Originally Posted by remcafee View Post
to be honest, the brakes dont necessarily change the stopping distance in my opinion, the thing i noticed most is more instant bite when you hit the pedal and less brake fade when you are 5+ laps in on a track the pedal does not get spongy.
tires are what affects your stopping distance in all reality
Tires will definitely help your stopping power, no argument there.

In my experience, since my DeeDee (Yaris) don't have ABS, I've locked my front wheels more than a few times, due to my rear drum brakes fading, going down a hill and suddenly stopping at a traffic light. I believe its the rear brakes, because they were great for the first 6 months when I first replaced them, never locked my wheels and they supposedly should last longer than the front disc because the front brakes takes most of the weight and beating. It's starting to get colder here in MD and it seems to be helping cool the drums which have prevented me from locking up, or maybe it's just my imagination.
DeeDee is the third car I've owned without ABS. First was a 1973 VW Beetle, which I bought to learn how to drive a manual, it had 4 drum brakes!!! I locked the front wheels often because she just wouldn't stop sometimes, I later found that the previous owner had plugged the hole in the brake fluid reservoir leading to the rear because there's a leak somewhere in the hardline going to the rear. The second car I owed that didn't have ABS was a 92 Prelude, which had all disc brakes. I only locked up the wheels a couple of times when I first got her, before I've learned how to control my braking with that car. I was a lot younger then and more aggressive driver then than now.
So I'm definitely onboard with getting all 4 disc brakes.
I hope someone found my experiences useful.
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Old 10-13-2022, 07:37 PM   #20
Compeer
 
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Yeah sounds about right.

Did you change your wheel studs to longer ones? I would like to get some 3-5mm spaces to fix offset on my roh zs.

Im going to to change the gear box oil too its a bit crunchy some times going into gears hence Ive been looking for a good lsd unit. Would also pick your brain on gear box oil you prefer?
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Old 10-15-2022, 03:55 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neinris View Post
Thank you Remcafee... well fudge, I thought I found the correct part numbers. Would you be able to tell me what 47323-52110 and 47324-52100 are? Because those are what I ordered.



Tires will definitely help your stopping power, no argument there.

In my experience, since my DeeDee (Yaris) don't have ABS, I've locked my front wheels more than a few times, due to my rear drum brakes fading, going down a hill and suddenly stopping at a traffic light. I believe its the rear brakes, because they were great for the first 6 months when I first replaced them, never locked my wheels and they supposedly should last longer than the front disc because the front brakes takes most of the weight and beating. It's starting to get colder here in MD and it seems to be helping cool the drums which have prevented me from locking up, or maybe it's just my imagination.
DeeDee is the third car I've owned without ABS. First was a 1973 VW Beetle, which I bought to learn how to drive a manual, it had 4 drum brakes!!! I locked the front wheels often because she just wouldn't stop sometimes, I later found that the previous owner had plugged the hole in the brake fluid reservoir leading to the rear because there's a leak somewhere in the hardline going to the rear. The second car I owed that didn't have ABS was a 92 Prelude, which had all disc brakes. I only locked up the wheels a couple of times when I first got her, before I've learned how to control my braking with that car. I was a lot younger then and more aggressive driver then than now.
So I'm definitely onboard with getting all 4 disc brakes.
I hope someone found my experiences useful.
hmmm it appears those part numbers are a production change effect i am 90% sure they are the same just when toyota changes faciltys or part manufacturers they change the part number, im sure they are the same if not very similar, might have some different inspection paint marks and could be a different color, toyota always changes up the fine details like that, its rather annoying if you ask me but it is what it is.
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Old 10-15-2022, 04:01 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Compeer View Post
Yeah sounds about right.

Did you change your wheel studs to longer ones? I would like to get some 3-5mm spaces to fix offset on my roh zs.

Im going to to change the gear box oil too its a bit crunchy some times going into gears hence Ive been looking for a good lsd unit. Would also pick your brain on gear box oil you prefer?
you can use 5mm spacers with stock studs, you still have lots of thread bite left to safely fasten a lug nut all through the stud, if you only get lless than 2 full turns of thread then thats unsafe as hell.
use redline mt90, it really is magic how well it works on improving high mileage transmissions with worn synchros.
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Old 10-17-2022, 03:30 PM   #23
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Sweet cheers for the advice bro!

Todays the day, will be going out to pick it all up shortly, will post pics tonight of the parts!

EDIT: damn the wreckers hadnt even pulled the parts off the old car...Told me another week lol ffs..good things take time I guess

Last edited by Compeer; 10-17-2022 at 07:17 PM.
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Old 10-18-2022, 12:44 PM   #24
sh0rtlife
 
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ive considered snagging similar parts out of japan as i noted some of those cars wearing 14s with rear disc..to which i was shocked

can you confirm?
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Old 10-18-2022, 12:56 PM   #25
remcafee
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sh0rtlife View Post
ive considered snagging similar parts out of japan as i noted some of those cars wearing 14s with rear disc..to which i was shocked

can you confirm?
i will see if i can find a 14" wheel at my work and try test fitting on my car, dont get your hopes up though as 14" wheels are hard to see around here with an array of minivans and crossovers here at my shop
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Old 10-18-2022, 01:24 PM   #26
Neinris
 
Drives: 08 Yaris 3 Door Hatchback
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sh0rtlife View Post
ive considered snagging similar parts out of japan as i noted some of those cars wearing 14s with rear disc..to which i was shocked

can you confirm?
I’m not sure if 14s will fit, not for the front anyway. I imagine if you have rear disc brakes then your front rotors are bigger. I have the SE rotors upfront, and they barely fit 15s.
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Old 10-25-2022, 04:21 PM   #27
Compeer
 
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Parts are ready for me! Will be collecting today and taking some pics of the loot!
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Old 10-27-2022, 04:44 AM   #28
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All done some of the wip pics, ran out of light to take pics with them donje but will take some tomorrow after I wear the rust off the rotors with a decent drive.

I have lock nuts on the wheels that the tyre shop installed..I broke two of the locknut sockets..I adned up bashing the second crasked socket into a brass tube so ut couldnt break anymore and got the wheels off. None of thebolts had been touched on the car and I did it with hand tools so every second bolt was a struggle and I installed it all myself. I do not recommend trying to hold up, align and screw bolts into a rear subframe by yourself! Not fun!

Brakes feel good but very different, no longer are they super touchy feels like I have waider range of braking now but I may still have some air in the system. Also the parts ended up coming with everything, shocks springs the works, So i have spare set of all rear bushings full set of spare shocks and springs and I have the old brakes to sell also.



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Old 10-27-2022, 11:58 AM   #29
Neinris
 
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Is your car lowered? Did you use the upper mounting holes?
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Old 10-27-2022, 05:16 PM   #30
remcafee
 
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you also did the fronts right? if you panic stop its gonna be unsafe and the car will wrap itself around
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Old 10-27-2022, 09:39 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neinris View Post
Is your car lowered? Did you use the upper mounting holes?
Car is lowered on trd springs and shocks from factory, it was using the lower mounts so I put it back as it was. I didn't know this was a thing tho..Now I want to change the mount positions.

Literally gonna go change those mounts today, the car always felt weird in the ass, I ran lower tire pressure rear to make up for it.

Cheers for letting me know.

Last edited by Compeer; 10-28-2022 at 05:10 AM.
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Old 10-27-2022, 09:45 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remcafee View Post
you also did the fronts right? if you panic stop its gonna be unsafe and the car will wrap itself around
I installed the full rs kit, but even with just the rear it would have been fine, the rears are smaller than standard fronts and have far less braking force. Anyway feels perfectly stable coming to a quick stop at 60km haha but I do need to keep bleeding the system its not quite right yet i can feel air i it sinks a bit if you lay on it so will bleed it a few after a few drives

Last edited by Compeer; 10-28-2022 at 07:55 AM.
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Old 10-28-2022, 01:13 PM   #33
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rears are actually a bit larger in diameter than non-rs fronts (255mm), at 260mmx9mm. its good you upgraded to rs front brakes (275mm)
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Old 10-28-2022, 10:57 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by enviri View Post
rears are actually a bit larger in diameter than non-rs fronts (255mm), at 260mmx9mm. its good you upgraded to rs front brakes (275mm)
Sweet as i thought they were a tiny bit smaller but didnt measure them and had seen on youtube guys just adding the rear discs and so thought it was sweet. I got a full set of RS springs and shocks and spare bushings now, will have a decent parts box.

I changed the trailing arm mount position to the upper one and applied loctite to all the suspension bolts and then I bled the clutch line and that solved the squishy brakes.

Actualy didnt even have to remove the wheels to change the suspension mount point, I just put the car on stands and took the bolts out and used the jack to put it up to the new position, took me longer to put the car on the stands.

I also jacked the trailing arm up BEFORE tightening down the bolts this time so that the trailing arm was preloaded.

the things you learn.

But cars handling way better and now the brakes feel amazing! just need a decent drive to wear the rust off the rotors.

Big thanks to everyone here for the help guys! More mods to come!

Last edited by Compeer; 10-29-2022 at 03:25 AM.
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Old 10-29-2022, 11:39 AM   #35
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just look out for rear beam slapping your chassis over time once its all settled now that you swapped bolt positions, and you are good to go
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Old 10-30-2022, 01:46 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by enviri View Post
just look out for rear beam slapping your chassis over time once its all settled now that you swapped bolt positions, and you are good to go
Im guessing i would hear that, but feels pretty damn good now, like i think the trd suspension is supposed to feel, especially with the 15x7 wheels.

It used to often feel like you were being blown by the wind trying to drive a straight line at 100km/ph before. Like the ass end of the car was a trailer being towed.

Since I put an entire new rear end in I am going to go and have it realigned tomorrow so I know shes all on point again.
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