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Old 12-19-2012, 06:05 PM   #487
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Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft View Post
Spent the last few hours combing over the car with my mechanic... and nothing.

-Fuel pressure was fine
-Smoke test turned up nothing
-All sensors are within range via OBDII

We were finally able to get a P0171 code thrown, but that's it. The trims were everywhere - off gas they were trimming fuel like crazy, while on gas it was adding way too much fuel. In other words, they've never seen anything like this before.

So at this point, the only thing that can't be ruled out 100% is the ECM. However, the replacement ECM didn't do anything. The one and only remaining cause is a problem with the harness. Here's what I'm thinking

-Sweet talk someone at Toyota into doing some monitoring with the techstream tool. If the ECM is compromised or a short/open in the harness, it should show up.
-If not, attempt to continuity check EVERY SINGLE WIRE on the ECM (dear lord). I don't even know if the information for this is actually readily available.
-If not, attempt to source a replacement harness

Otherwise... We're talking complete engine replacement. I knew the day would come, but I thought it would be because I BLEW the engine, not some electrical BS.

I have a Techstream. Take a run up to CT.
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:17 PM   #488
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I wish I could Scott, but with how the car is running it's not feasible. Thanks for the offer tough.

I was thinking though... If I shipped you one of these ECMs I have, could you possibly confirm if it's in a working state? Obviously doing the check through my car and thus the harness would be best but... Yeah. Still, if I could find out if the ECM is good or bad, that's still a pretty good datapoint.

One other thing regarding checking the harness... In the service manual's ECM pinout, would I be right in thinking the two pins listed under 'Symbols (Terminal No.)' should always have continuity?
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:20 PM   #489
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I wish I could Scott, but with how the car is running it's not feasible. Thanks for the offer tough.

I was thinking though... If I shipped you one of these ECMs I have, could you possibly confirm if it's in a working state? Obviously doing the check through my car and thus the harness would be best but... Yeah. Still, if I could find out if the ECM is good or bad, that's still a pretty good datapoint.

One other thing regarding checking the harness... In the service manual's ECM pinout, would I be right in thinking the two pins listed under 'Symbols (Terminal No.)' should always have continuity?
I can definitely check out the ECM for you. I can also give you a list of specific harness points to check (the ones most likely related to the behavior).
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:25 PM   #490
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I can definitely check out the ECM for you. I can also give you a list of specific harness points to check (the ones most likely related to the behavior).
I would definitely appreciate the harness points list. I'll get back to you on the ECM though. I need to see how the dealership responds to my request first. Considering we've bought three cars from them, I hope reasonably...
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:43 PM   #491
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I would definitely appreciate the harness points list. I'll get back to you on the ECM though. I need to see how the dealership responds to my request first. Considering we've bought three cars from them, I hope reasonably...
Here it is:

Yaris ECM - Connections.pdf
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Old 12-22-2012, 08:48 PM   #492
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Wow, that is comprehensive. Must have taken awhile to put together too. Thanks!
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Old 12-22-2012, 09:10 PM   #493
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Wow, that is comprehensive. Must have taken awhile to put together too. Thanks!
Fortunately I had most of it together from some past projects. Start with checking out the wires related to the injectors, coils, cam, crank, and MAF. If those all check out, then the next stop would be the AFR and O2 sensors.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:02 PM   #494
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Been away for the last two weeks, but got back into troubleshooting yesterday. It looks like I've [unfortunately] found the problem...

Short story: Blew the head gasket

Long story: Finally decided to bite the bullet and get Toyota involved. I was lucky enough to get a really cool tech who was interested in the car. First thing we did was hook up the techstream tool. Get this - there were five codes that were being thrown EVEN THOUGH THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS OFF. Only his Mongoose cable was able to retrieve them. That is the biggest load of bull. Anyway, had P0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, and 0172. Since the plugs are ruled out, he said it's possible (especially with a hotter plug) that the coils burnt out. It seems unlikely all four would go, but apparently it's happened before.

So after running the engine a bit, we removed all four plugs. Out of cylinder one (and only one) you could hear air escaping/vacuum. That was the first nail in the coffin. After that, we topped off the coolant and ran a coolant reservoir with the engine on. Sure enough, there were air bubbles and small pieces of aluminum...

I still don't fully understand how a head gasket leak would cause issues such as misfires, but the guy working with me was very knowledgeable. My coolant temperatures were never excessively hot, and there isn't any coolant leaking out of the head either.

So, that's it. There's a lot I need to figure out, but I refuse to return the car to stock.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:28 PM   #495
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through in a new head gasket and maybe turn the boost down a bit. Or try and find a stronger one? I guess it depends on where the leak is when you get it apart. You'll probably find a tiny slit of black on the deck where the leak was. I've experienced this exact head gasket problem on a B18 LS Vtec on my friends old race car. Car kept overheating though, no other issues.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:28 PM   #496
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Get that tC out and park the Yaris?
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:50 PM   #497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft View Post
Been away for the last two weeks, but got back into troubleshooting yesterday. It looks like I've [unfortunately] found the problem...

Short story: Blew the head gasket

Long story: Finally decided to bite the bullet and get Toyota involved. I was lucky enough to get a really cool tech who was interested in the car. First thing we did was hook up the techstream tool. Get this - there were five codes that were being thrown EVEN THOUGH THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS OFF. Only his Mongoose cable was able to retrieve them. That is the biggest load of bull. Anyway, had P0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, and 0172. Since the plugs are ruled out, he said it's possible (especially with a hotter plug) that the coils burnt out. It seems unlikely all four would go, but apparently it's happened before.

So after running the engine a bit, we removed all four plugs. Out of cylinder one (and only one) you could hear air escaping/vacuum. That was the first nail in the coffin. After that, we topped off the coolant and ran a coolant reservoir with the engine on. Sure enough, there were air bubbles and small pieces of aluminum...

I still don't fully understand how a head gasket leak would cause issues such as misfires, but the guy working with me was very knowledgeable. My coolant temperatures were never excessively hot, and there isn't any coolant leaking out of the head either.

So, that's it. There's a lot I need to figure out, but I refuse to return the car to stock.
Based on what all my Russian friends are telling me .. we need a thicker gasket in case we go boosted to lower the compression ratio.. might be a good opportunity for you to install one
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:20 PM   #498
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Get that tC out and park the Yaris?
I wish it was that simple. Of course this had to happen mid winter...

I plan on upgrading the head gasket if there is a better one available. I'll probably begin tearing down the engine tomorrow, but going to do another compression test first (did the other one wrong apparently).

Can anyone chime in on the best way to deal with the timing chain?
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:41 PM   #499
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PULL! lol
What do you mean "Deal" with it?
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:06 PM   #500
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Pretty good progress today. I'm almost there, but am kind of stuck on the camshafts / timing chain.








So yeah... those camshafts. I've looked at the service manual and not only does it not make sense, but I can't get the plug out of the "service hole." Further, the flange nut on the number two camshaft sprocket isn't budging. My wrench is actually stripping it. It looks like I may be able to just remove the retainers and wiggle the camshaft out with the gear still on, but I dunno. Can anyone give me some pointers?
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:43 PM   #501
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You'll have to take the front of the motor apart. Probably need to release the auto tensioner and lock it back then pull the chain off the crank and then off the cams.
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:41 AM   #502
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man..... after work ill try to take some pics for you of my torn down engine to try and help explain....

you'll have to remove the timing cover. once its off, remove the tensioner (by removing the preload then unbolting it). Once the tensioner is removed you can slip out all the chain guides and there should be enough play to pull the chain off the crank sprocket.

Once the chain is off the crank sprocet you should be able to pull the chain off the cam sprockets without removing the sprockets from the cams

EDIT: LOL, almost the exact same thing bluevitz-rs said....
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:46 AM   #503
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Thanks guys

...I was really trying to avoid taking the chain cover off
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:16 PM   #504
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Now I really wish I hadn't taken the chain cover off...



I can get another one pretty cheap thankfully, but was wondering if I could get away with just using sealant between the two pieces. Is the oil in the timing chain case pressurized? It looks like it's just thrown on the crank lubricating the chain as the engine turns.

Otherwise, I'm stuck on the head bolts. I thought it was a 12 pt socket I needed but was the exact opposite
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