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12-19-2012, 06:05 PM | #487 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
I have a Techstream. Take a run up to CT.
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12-19-2012, 06:17 PM | #488 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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I wish I could Scott, but with how the car is running it's not feasible. Thanks for the offer tough.
I was thinking though... If I shipped you one of these ECMs I have, could you possibly confirm if it's in a working state? Obviously doing the check through my car and thus the harness would be best but... Yeah. Still, if I could find out if the ECM is good or bad, that's still a pretty good datapoint. One other thing regarding checking the harness... In the service manual's ECM pinout, would I be right in thinking the two pins listed under 'Symbols (Terminal No.)' should always have continuity? |
12-19-2012, 06:20 PM | #489 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
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12-19-2012, 06:25 PM | #490 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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I would definitely appreciate the harness points list. I'll get back to you on the ECM though. I need to see how the dealership responds to my request first. Considering we've bought three cars from them, I hope reasonably...
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12-21-2012, 10:43 PM | #491 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
Yaris ECM - Connections.pdf
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12-22-2012, 08:48 PM | #492 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Wow, that is comprehensive. Must have taken awhile to put together too. Thanks!
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12-22-2012, 09:10 PM | #493 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Fortunately I had most of it together from some past projects. Start with checking out the wires related to the injectors, coils, cam, crank, and MAF. If those all check out, then the next stop would be the AFR and O2 sensors.
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01-09-2013, 04:02 PM | #494 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Been away for the last two weeks, but got back into troubleshooting yesterday. It looks like I've [unfortunately] found the problem...
Short story: Blew the head gasket Long story: Finally decided to bite the bullet and get Toyota involved. I was lucky enough to get a really cool tech who was interested in the car. First thing we did was hook up the techstream tool. Get this - there were five codes that were being thrown EVEN THOUGH THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS OFF. Only his Mongoose cable was able to retrieve them. That is the biggest load of bull. Anyway, had P0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, and 0172. Since the plugs are ruled out, he said it's possible (especially with a hotter plug) that the coils burnt out. It seems unlikely all four would go, but apparently it's happened before. So after running the engine a bit, we removed all four plugs. Out of cylinder one (and only one) you could hear air escaping/vacuum. That was the first nail in the coffin. After that, we topped off the coolant and ran a coolant reservoir with the engine on. Sure enough, there were air bubbles and small pieces of aluminum... I still don't fully understand how a head gasket leak would cause issues such as misfires, but the guy working with me was very knowledgeable. My coolant temperatures were never excessively hot, and there isn't any coolant leaking out of the head either. So, that's it. There's a lot I need to figure out, but I refuse to return the car to stock. |
01-09-2013, 04:28 PM | #495 |
1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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through in a new head gasket and maybe turn the boost down a bit. Or try and find a stronger one? I guess it depends on where the leak is when you get it apart. You'll probably find a tiny slit of black on the deck where the leak was. I've experienced this exact head gasket problem on a B18 LS Vtec on my friends old race car. Car kept overheating though, no other issues.
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01-09-2013, 04:28 PM | #496 |
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Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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Get that tC out and park the Yaris?
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
01-09-2013, 04:50 PM | #497 | |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
Posts: 954
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Quote:
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01-09-2013, 06:20 PM | #498 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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I wish it was that simple. Of course this had to happen mid winter...
I plan on upgrading the head gasket if there is a better one available. I'll probably begin tearing down the engine tomorrow, but going to do another compression test first (did the other one wrong apparently). Can anyone chime in on the best way to deal with the timing chain? |
01-10-2013, 03:41 PM | #499 |
Drives: no-longer-boosted '10 Yaris Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Angus, Ontario
Posts: 1,891
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PULL! lol
What do you mean "Deal" with it?
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If it has boobs or wheels sooner or later your gonna have problems with it |
01-10-2013, 08:06 PM | #500 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Pretty good progress today. I'm almost there, but am kind of stuck on the camshafts / timing chain.
So yeah... those camshafts. I've looked at the service manual and not only does it not make sense, but I can't get the plug out of the "service hole." Further, the flange nut on the number two camshaft sprocket isn't budging. My wrench is actually stripping it. It looks like I may be able to just remove the retainers and wiggle the camshaft out with the gear still on, but I dunno. Can anyone give me some pointers? |
01-10-2013, 10:43 PM | #501 |
1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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You'll have to take the front of the motor apart. Probably need to release the auto tensioner and lock it back then pull the chain off the crank and then off the cams.
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01-11-2013, 11:41 AM | #502 |
Drives: no-longer-boosted '10 Yaris Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Angus, Ontario
Posts: 1,891
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man..... after work ill try to take some pics for you of my torn down engine to try and help explain....
you'll have to remove the timing cover. once its off, remove the tensioner (by removing the preload then unbolting it). Once the tensioner is removed you can slip out all the chain guides and there should be enough play to pull the chain off the crank sprocket. Once the chain is off the crank sprocet you should be able to pull the chain off the cam sprockets without removing the sprockets from the cams EDIT: LOL, almost the exact same thing bluevitz-rs said....
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If it has boobs or wheels sooner or later your gonna have problems with it |
01-11-2013, 11:46 AM | #503 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Thanks guys
...I was really trying to avoid taking the chain cover off |
01-13-2013, 04:16 PM | #504 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Now I really wish I hadn't taken the chain cover off...
I can get another one pretty cheap thankfully, but was wondering if I could get away with just using sealant between the two pieces. Is the oil in the timing chain case pressurized? It looks like it's just thrown on the crank lubricating the chain as the engine turns. Otherwise, I'm stuck on the head bolts. I thought it was a 12 pt socket I needed but was the exact opposite |
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