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Old 11-18-2008, 04:46 PM   #19
CTScott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jambo101 View Post
Seeing as you have it all apart anyway can you give us a pic of the cam/boss that activates the air while in defrost mode? dont know why Toyota couldnt have given me the option of defrost with air on or off,like its only a matter of pushing a button if i want the air on.
I haven't actually pulled mine apart. I just remembered seeing the picture of it pulled apart on that thread. Based on the EWD's I think that the "option" is based on whether or not you have the "cold weather package".
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Old 11-18-2008, 05:02 PM   #20
stran
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
I haven't actually pulled mine apart. I just remembered seeing the picture of it pulled apart on that thread. Based on the EWD's I think that the "option" is based on whether or not you have the "cold weather package".
I'm in Cali and the cold weather package wasn't an option for me but my defroster is still linked. And thanks for showing me how to subscribe. I can follow the conversation now.
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Old 11-19-2008, 11:37 AM   #21
IllusionX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jambo101 View Post
Tried that and the windows start fogging up again,seems some airflow is constantly needed on the window to keep it fog free' but just warm air will do the job once the car is at operating temperature,at that point the air is no longer needed but there is no way to turn it off and still have airflow over the window.
I don't know about yours, but both, the echo i've had and the yaris i have now constantly have a good amount of air coming out of the defrost area when it is set to foot only. If your car does fog up even when fully warm up without activating the front defrost, chances you are running with recirculated air all the time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stran View Post
Except the connection to the heater is probably via a mechanical linkage. I know that the vent knob operates via a mechanical linkage. With the car off and there's no power, you can still switch between the vents. On luxury cars I've driven before, the soft buttons activate a little motor that open and closes the damper that only works when the car is on.
the connection to the heater is activated by a mechanial linkage that activates a switch. it COULD be the same switch as the AC switch when on defrost mode. My echo only had one switch there.. so...
i don't know if this helps.




By the way, even in Cali, your front window fogs up, especially during rainy days. when setting your vent to front defrost, the AC actually helps in defogging your windows.
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:24 PM   #22
stran
 
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I got it!

My first DIY post.

Total Time:
7 mins (if you know what you're doing)
20 mins (if first time opening the dash)
2 hours (if you're have two left hands or missing your opposable thumbs)
Tools:
Small flathead screwdriver to disconnect wire harness and push in the little clips that holds the plastic pieces together. (But not required. I could have done it with my keys or just my fingers.)
Follow instructions for changing the LED to access the back of the vent dial. Everything comes apart really easy. On the back of the circuit board (the one with the A/C button), there is a momentary switch (momentary means it requires continuous pressure to be closed) with a little metal arm. I know this description is vague, and I'm sorry I don't have pictures, but there's nothing else on the back and once you're there, it'll be obvious. Bend the metal arm a few times and it breaks right off. Presto! No more annoying A/C with defrost. Reassemble.

How it works: the back plastic piece has a ridge that engages when the vent knob is in the defroster mode. The ridge presses on the metal arm to trigger the momentary switch. No metal arm means the ridge can't trigger the A/C switch.

For the belt and suspender people to check you have the right switch (which is what I did), you can turn on the car and press the switch and see if the A/C turns on. It's easiest to tell when the car is fully warmed up since the difference in idle speed between A/C off and A/C on is very noticeable. I also had a scangauge to check fuel flow, but you can open the hood and check the condenser fan.

Tips:
  • Leave the vent dial knob all the way to one side (like face vent) so when you reassemble, you don't have to worry about aligning the indicator.
  • There's a little bit of grease on the knob to lubricate the gears. Having some paper towels is handy.

Man, this mod made my week. I've been pissed at my defroster for so long. Though, the knob has a few sticky points. I didn't pay enough attention before to know if I made it stickier or it has always been this way. I can't think of anything I did that would affect the smoothness of the knob.
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:13 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stran View Post
My first DIY post.

Total Time:
7 mins (if you know what you're doing)
20 mins (if first time opening the dash)
2 hours (if you're have two left hands or missing your opposable thumbs)
Tools:
Small flathead screwdriver to disconnect wire harness and push in the little clips that holds the plastic pieces together. (But not required. I could have done it with my keys or just my fingers.)
Follow instructions for changing the LED to access the back of the vent dial. Everything comes apart really easy. On the back of the circuit board (the one with the A/C button), there is a momentary switch (momentary means it requires continuous pressure to be closed) with a little metal arm. I know this description is vague, and I'm sorry I don't have pictures, but there's nothing else on the back and once you're there, it'll be obvious. Bend the metal arm a few times and it breaks right off. Presto! No more annoying A/C with defrost. Reassemble.

How it works: the back plastic piece has a ridge that engages when the vent knob is in the defroster mode. The ridge presses on the metal arm to trigger the momentary switch. No metal arm means the ridge can't trigger the A/C switch.

For the belt and suspender people to check you have the right switch (which is what I did), you can turn on the car and press the switch and see if the A/C turns on. It's easiest to tell when the car is fully warmed up since the difference in idle speed between A/C off and A/C on is very noticeable. I also had a scangauge to check fuel flow, but you can open the hood and check the condenser fan.

Tips:
  • Leave the vent dial knob all the way to one side (like face vent) so when you reassemble, you don't have to worry about aligning the indicator.
  • There's a little bit of grease on the knob to lubricate the gears. Having some paper towels is handy.

Man, this mod made my week. I've been pissed at my defroster for so long. Though, the knob has a few sticky points. I didn't pay enough attention before to know if I made it stickier or it has always been this way. I can't think of anything I did that would affect the smoothness of the knob.

Excellent!!!
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:47 PM   #24
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:49 PM   #25
stran
 
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sorry dude. i don't have a digi cam. it'll be obvious once you get there.
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Old 01-09-2009, 01:50 PM   #26
billk
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris Sedan
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well my solution for the A/C not running when using the defroster took me 1 sec to fix. In fact It was all frosted over this morning and my defroster cleared the window with no A/c .
All you have to do is put the defrost switch half-way between foot and Defrost. The A/C will not come on. This causes the air to blow on the feet, side windows, and front windshield. If you don't believe me, try it, then turn the knob to the right to the defrost, and listen to the A/C come on.
Now the complicated part. If it does fog up, push the A/C button, or turn the dial to defrost...
I searched for this solution, did not see it, so if it is already done, sorry
b K
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