Want to build costom turbo kit. Need advice from boosted guys!

[scioncrew]

good to hear you found the problem

[packetrace]

Originally Posted by Yoda

Do not double think go standalone.

are you standalone ?

[packetrace]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

I made a mistake in thinking my AFR was fluctucation. It turns out the were fluctuating because of the missfire. When the missfire occurs the afr went rich because of unburned fuel in the exhaust. I made some progress and its running pretty good after retarding timing a bit farther. Its pulling hard on the highway WOW!! Also Im going to need a new boost guage. Also I seriously need a external wastegate setup. I need to organize a Turbo 5K walk for my car. Gotta raise funds.
I called Ptunning about the turbo manafold I was looking at, and they said they have none in stock and it would take at least a month to make one. I was a little dissapointed. I am holding off on the order for now and rethinking this.

ohhhh niceee man!!!

[Yoda]

Originally Posted by packetrace

are you standalone ?

Nope not yet but once I have the funds most deff

[Yoda]

I looked at the pt mani and just didn't like having my turbo exposed to the open environment. It rains a lot here in Florida. I know Garm has manifolds too did u check with him? What turbo are you runnin now?

[fnkngrv]

Originally Posted by Yoda

The on-board map sensor is good for ~22psi.

Running MAP in the southeast, south, and southwest is much easier with it since its based off of a fuel curve that is programed into the ECU or Piggyback and it does not change. So basically, your fuel map never changes no matter what the air conditions are outside (dense, thin, wet, dry, etc). I don't know enough about MAP setups yet to do much more than sound dangerous, but going off what i have learned so far using your car for a racing application would easily justify going MAP since the car many times isn't a DD for most folks, but in this case it is his DD. He would need a 2 BAR Stainless Steel Sensor Kit which are over 100 bucks and then he would need to modify his piping or even replace a section so it is another investment for sure. IMHO if you are going to make the change and investment to go MAP then you are better off ditching the FIC to go full standalone since you are looking to optimize for higher boost and the FIC just doesn't protect your investment. It seems the FIC is for folks wanting to use low boost which traditionally won't put your engine in much for danger of blowing up compared to medium/high boost. 8-10psi is fun as it is on the roads so I would think that 15-18psi is more giggles for sure when at the wheel so being patient at that point rather than risk further time/money makes more sense. I am not sure what most would consider FI changing from a hobby build to serious is since it is subjective based upon the driver and the vehicle, but to me going over 15psi is getting serious.

[Yoda]

Not sure I understand what this is in reference to. He doesn't need a kit of any kind if he stays below~22psi. The FIC can handle that level just fine.

[fnkngrv]

Originally Posted by Yoda

Not sure I understand what this is in reference to. He doesn't need a kit of any kind if he stays below~22psi. The FIC can handle that level just fine.

Right, but you would be crazy to not have the Inlet Temp Sensor along with it. Sure, it has MAP built right in, but that is a static setting. You configure MAP instead of MAF, but MAP has no way to adjust for air density changes, in-climate weather, etc. The only way for the ability to have "on the fly" adjustment is with the Inlet Sensor being place too. Someone would be forever fiddling with the configurations throughout the year in northern states or Canada because of this. How is the FIC going to know inlet density/temps/humidity without an inlet sensor?

[Yoda]

Originally Posted by fnkngrv

Running MAP in the southeast, south, and southwest is much easier with it since its based off of a fuel curve that is programed into the ECU or Piggyback and it does not change. So basically, your fuel map never changes no matter what the air conditions are outside (dense, thin, wet, dry, etc). I don't know enough about MAP setups yet to do much more than sound dangerous, but going off what i have learned so far using your car for a racing application would easily justify going MAP since the car many times isn't a DD for most folks, but in this case it is his DD. He would need a 2 BAR Stainless Steel Sensor Kit which are over 100 bucks and then he would need to modify his piping or even replace a section so it is another investment for sure. IMHO if you are going to make the change and investment to go MAP then you are better off ditching the FIC to go full standalone since you are looking to optimize for higher boost and the FIC just doesn't protect your investment. It seems the FIC is for folks wanting to use low boost which traditionally won't put your engine in much for danger of blowing up compared to medium/high boost. 8-10psi is fun as it is on the roads so I would think that 15-18psi is more giggles for sure when at the wheel so being patient at that point rather than risk further time/money makes more sense. I am not sure what most would consider FI changing from a hobby build to serious is since it is subjective based upon the driver and the vehicle, but to me going over 15psi is getting serious.

I know all about the temp difference and if you really have extreme varying weather then sure the sensor is nice to have. But you are implying that some change or investment is needed to use the MAP sensor. I am saying there is no investment needed it comes with the unit. The MAF sensor cant handle the boost that high. Many have tuned up to 20 psi for years with no problem. They have their winter tune and a summer tune. Switch between the two and you are set. Still a standalone unit is much better all round but for what he is using it for, FIC all the way.
Maybe i am misunderstanding something.

[Blown_xa]

Originally Posted by Yoda

I looked at the pt mani and just didn't like having my turbo exposed to the open environment. It rains a lot here in Florida. I know Garm has manifolds too did u check with him? What turbo are you runnin now?

Actually it doesn't have to be exposed, I chose to remove the cowl for ventilation. I put it back on in the fall to keep leaves out. On customers builds I leave it on, some trimming needed.

7301747898_22cf7ec549_b.jpg

[Yoda]

That's awesome to know! Do you get to keep your AC lines and would it fit in the Yaris bay. Really like your mani design.

[packetrace]

just awesome!!! what engine management do you normally uses ? piggy back ?

[Blown_xa]

If anyone is interested in the manifold e mail Andrew@ptuning.com

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Blown_xa

If anyone is interested in the manifold e mail Andrew@ptuning.com

I called about the manifold he said it would take a month to make one. If U had it in stock I would have bought one. You should keep a couple on the shelf. Im still liking it, mabe for spring. Dont want to swap it out in the cold.

[pimp my yaris]

I recently had a huge loss in power while tuning at 19 psi of boost. I thought it was a clogged converter or muffler. Possibly a boost leak or BOV not closing. That was all wrong, it turns out I had a mass air flow sensor trouble code. I could not see it because my CEL is on all the time because my 02s sensors are disconnected. I cleared the code and the problem is fixed. Back to full power. I may need to adjust my MAF clamp voltage.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Probably an out of range code and it went to default values.

[packetrace]

The ptuning maniold on their website does not look equal lenght ?

[pimp my yaris]

I think its about as close as you can get woth the space under the hood. I have seen one other but it required relocating the battery. And was over 2000$. I like the turbo above the valve cover. Looks cool and will make the exhaust much straighter and easier to fabricate.