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Old 03-04-2014, 09:07 PM   #1
CrankyOldMan
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Blitz supercharger switch diagram

I'm replacing my selector switch with something more unique/interesting/secure, and in the process have more or less reverse engineered it. Nothing too complicated: just a rotary switch, an LED, and some resistors that make a strange voltage divider, or perhaps mimic set points on a rheostat. The LED is either 12V tolerant or has the power resistor in the clutch controller box. CTScott, can you confirm?

If you're handy with electronics, you could come up with some variants of your own. I'm eliminating the 50% and 75% positions since I never use them, but I'm keeping "off" for the young drivers in my family that are learning to drive.
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Old 03-04-2014, 09:33 PM   #2
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The LED does have a current limiting resistor in the control box.
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Old 03-04-2014, 10:02 PM   #3
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That's very strange, considering the number of resistors already on the PCB.
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Old 03-04-2014, 10:24 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan View Post
That's very strange, considering the number of resistors already on the PCB.
The resistors are there for the voltage divider to feed the ADC that reads the switch position.
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:08 AM   #5
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The resistors are there for the voltage divider to feed the ADC that reads the switch position.
Aah. That's the conclusion I was leaning towards, but not having a spare clutch module to dissect was slowing me down. Do you by chance know the LED resistor value and/or the LED supply voltage?
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Old 03-05-2014, 10:06 AM   #6
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Aah. That's the conclusion I was leaning towards, but not having a spare clutch module to dissect was slowing me down. Do you by chance know the LED resistor value and/or the LED supply voltage?
I don't. It's been quite a while since I had one open.
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Old 03-05-2014, 10:49 AM   #7
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It's basically the same principal as the cruise control switch right?
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Old 03-05-2014, 10:54 AM   #8
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It's basically the same principal as the cruise control switch right?
Correct and same as steering wheel audio controls as well.
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:49 AM   #9
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Might be in the market for one. Maybe use a switch that lights when on or even a factory switch that is re-purposed. Yeah, I'd buy that.
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Old 03-06-2014, 01:46 PM   #10
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I don't ever use the mid or high setting either. Only time I've turned mine off was a couple times I had some problems.
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Old 03-06-2014, 02:02 PM   #11
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I don't ever use the mid or high setting either. Only time I've turned mine off was a couple times I had some problems.
I never use mid or high either. It feels really strange with the AT to have the supercharger kick in that way.
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:25 PM   #12
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I never use mid or high either. It feels really strange with the AT to have the supercharger kick in that way.
I tried it on MED once at an AutoX event to try and reduce inside wheel spin. It was awful.
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Might be in the market for one. Maybe use a switch that lights when on or even a factory switch that is re-purposed. Yeah, I'd buy that.
So you would want a toggle switch with a light inside that comes on when the clutch is engaged? I'm not really sure what you're asking for.

On a side note, I'm going to prototype some driver's side glovebox panels for my stealth gauge clusters some time next week. If you don't already have your Blitz switch mounted somewhere else, this would be a great place to put it. (There's a thread around here somewhere with CAD renderings...)

*edit*

Aah, here we go:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49468

I'm making a few blanks as well if anyone is interested. I'll post a for sale thread once I've got the dimensions and angles right.
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:31 AM   #13
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Actually simpler than that, Just a switch whose light is on when on and off when off (but it may actually be simpler to drive the switches light with the clutch activation voltage now that I think about it). I like the idea of just engaging at the low setting or off since I too have an automatic and have experienced the wierdness of it engaging mid shift or other odd times. As for the gauge panel, I've already massacred (sp) my drivers side glove box for 3 gauges. Water temp, Oil temp, and Tach. On that note, is there an easy way to remove the drivers side glovebox door? I'd replace it with the stealth panel if I could get the damn thing off and replaced.

Last edited by 07stlYaris; 03-07-2014 at 10:40 AM. Reason: Edited for a bit more clarity.
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Old 05-27-2014, 10:26 AM   #14
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Finally got around to updating the wiring diagram by adding some variants. They are all based on the LED that I bought, so your mileage may vary. I may update it a bit to show how to do it with un-regulated LEDs and then give special instructions for using pre-regulated LEDs.

The first three configurations are progressively more complex in their implementation and indication capability. The fourth one is just a 1:1 replication of the OEM switch configuration and assumes you re-use the OEM LED.
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:33 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07stlYaris View Post
Actually simpler than that, Just a switch whose light is on when on and off when off (but it may actually be simpler to drive the switches light with the clutch activation voltage now that I think about it). I like the idea of just engaging at the low setting or off since I too have an automatic and have experienced the wierdness of it engaging mid shift or other odd times. As for the gauge panel, I've already massacred (sp) my drivers side glove box for 3 gauges. Water temp, Oil temp, and Tach. On that note, is there an easy way to remove the drivers side glovebox door? I'd replace it with the stealth panel if I could get the damn thing off and replaced.
I've tried removing the glovebox lid, and it pretty much requires removing the entire dashboard (to include non-reusable clips and A-pillar trim pieces). You can use an SPDT illuminated switch, but it's up to you to decide if you want an LED or an incandescent bulb. The difference is that the incandescent will require replacing a resistor in the control box with a jumper (wire) or driving the bulb with a transistor. If you can find one with an LED that has about a 2V forward voltage drop, you can just wire the LED terminals to the switch LED instead. Make sure you check the polarity of it first.

*edit*

Now that I think of it, I would have to look at the switch control box more closely to see exactly how the LED is driven. If it's driven via a transistor, I need to check the current rating of it to ensure that the incandescent bulb won't fry it by drawing too much current.
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan View Post
I've tried removing the glovebox lid, and it pretty much requires removing the entire dashboard (to include non-reusable clips and A-pillar trim pieces). You can use an SPDT illuminated switch, but it's up to you to decide if you want an LED or an incandescent bulb. The difference is that the incandescent will require replacing a resistor in the control box with a jumper (wire) or driving the bulb with a transistor. If you can find one with an LED that has about a 2V forward voltage drop, you can just wire the LED terminals to the switch LED instead. Make sure you check the polarity of it first.

*edit*

Now that I think of it, I would have to look at the switch control box more closely to see exactly how the LED is driven. If it's driven via a transistor, I need to check the current rating of it to ensure that the incandescent bulb won't fry it by drawing too much current.
There are two screws and two clips that mount the driver's side glove box, so you do have to pull the dash top to remove it.
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Old 02-24-2019, 02:27 AM   #17
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Hey cranky
I'm from aus myself and have finally got my blitz ncp13 assembled and initially my clutch switch was working for us when wired in and was going to plan. But previously the pcb has had a crack in it and while the person before me had fixed it to a point where it functioned again, unfortunately even with a nice mounting that tried to reduce flex on the board or movement it has managed to crack again. Sadly now it has stopped functioning and no longer works at any throttle engagement and from where I can see the crack is right under the line of 4 TPS engagement settings. The little yellow wire came loose also in the process and I havent been able to work out how to rework or solder it to potentially make it work again as I have had it working but now face a pretty big dilemma.
What sort of specialist do I go to to have a pcb re etched and have all of the parts worked back on to the new one?

Or alternatively who would I take your photo of the 1:1 reworking of this switch to get it made? Anything mechanically related I am fine with but this stuff is just a bit out of my league i think.. any help is much appreciated.

Last edited by leighaus; 02-24-2019 at 02:33 AM. Reason: Forgot to add more
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Old 04-29-2019, 12:56 PM   #18
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Sorry that I missed this, I don't seem to be getting notifications anymore.

The schematics are just the electrical connections, not the circuit board layout. If you're never going to use the "med" or "high" engagement positions, then you can just connect about 6600 Ohms (I think 6800 Ohms is the closest standard value) across pins 4 and 5 and about 3500 Ohms (3300 Ohms is the closest standard value) across pins 3 and 4 on the plug end. You could probably just stuff the leads from the resistors into the sockets and hold them in place with tape or hot melt glue. Pin 5 is the far side from the LED connections. See attached "art".

If you want to be able to turn it off, you'll have to get a switch and some soldering equipment to make that work.

I have the parts from my unfinished version in the garage somewhere, I may be able to get some pictures of it to show you what I was going to do for reference/inspiration.
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File Type: png blitz resistors.png (7.8 KB, 56 views)
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