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Old 10-15-2011, 12:48 AM   #91
TickleTimeTim
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what do you guys think of sunpro gauges? just as bad as glowshift?
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Old 10-15-2011, 12:49 AM   #92
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a cheap gauge is a cheap gauge. It's below my tolerance for quality and reliability. Someone else might like them just fine, though.
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Old 10-15-2011, 12:57 AM   #93
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I run Faze Gauges. It's an off brand of sunpro. Mechanical water temp and oil, and 5" tach with shift light. Only problem with them is the indiglow backlight is blue and VERY bright at night unless you run resistors on the power supplies. Also one of the power supplies is hit and miss whether the gauge lights up or not.

Edit: forgot to mention they're very accurate too.
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Old 10-15-2011, 01:10 AM   #94
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Is the exhaust manifold in the "brand new turbo kit for a Yaris" going to fit your car? You might want to do some measuring and a test fit it to see if you are going to have to buy one of those as well. Since it's obviously not a Yaris kit, just a generic incomplete kit that the seller figured out wouldn't work on a Yaris, you may want to double check. Hate to see you get that far and find out you have one more part to buy.
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Old 10-15-2011, 08:20 AM   #95
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I am running Auto Meter Phantom gauges. I tried some POS tachometer from EBay for 60$, and it now sits on a shelf. It was unreadable during the day and inaccurate. It also had a stepper motor that was very noisy. Auto meter and good quality and they been around forever in the muscle car crowd. Cost only half as much as Defi guages.
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Old 10-15-2011, 08:46 AM   #96
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This is the intercooler I am using now. It fits perfect with the crash bar, and is the perfect size for a yaris with 10psi or less. To big a cooler will just add a lot of lag at low psi. I could not find the exact kit I bought with the pipes and BOV. They are all available separately though. U will still need Two 2"-2.25" silicone reducers, and a 2.25" intercooler pipe kit with bov. Make sure the pipe kit has at least 2, 180 degree bends. U will need them at both ends of the intercooler.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-28...#ht_4355wt_780
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Old 10-15-2011, 11:23 AM   #97
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there is a guy with 3 autometer gauges and a pillar in texas that wants 100 for it, may consider that.

stove, i didn't even think about that, but that makes a lot of sense. a bit nervous now.

thanks for the intercooler page, and the advice on the 180 bends. i was thinking about sending my piping over the the engine like i had seen someone else do on here, cause i studied your pictures a million times and cant figure out where you sent you piping.
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Old 10-15-2011, 01:51 PM   #98
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I have silicone tubing and reducers in a number of sizes in stock, once you know exactly what you need. I carry Flex Technologies, it's a bulletproof brand a lot of racing teams use.
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Old 10-15-2011, 02:56 PM   #99
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who will be shooting at me? haha. so should i get an idea with my current tubing and measure a bit, then shoot you a pm?
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Old 10-15-2011, 05:18 PM   #100
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You should have your piping sized and placed so you know how many joints you have and what angle (0, 45. 90, 180 etc.). Or buy what you know you need and fill in as you go if you don't have clear picture of how all the pieces are going to go yet.
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Old 10-16-2011, 02:59 PM   #101
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If U check my profile, "turbo project pics" there are more pics of some pipe routings.
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Old 10-18-2011, 03:28 AM   #102
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just knew

Quote:
Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
I have silicone tubing and reducers in a number of sizes in stock, once you know exactly what you need. I carry Flex Technologies, it's a bulletproof brand a lot of racing teams use.
wheww.. i just know this Garm, would have asked you for some hoses, a friend of mine's LanEvo III's using cheap hoses that would come off( really!...) when at full boost condition. all stock...
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Old 10-18-2011, 06:43 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs View Post
I run Faze Gauges. It's an off brand of sunpro. Mechanical water temp and oil, and 5" tach with shift light. Only problem with them is the indiglow backlight is blue and VERY bright at night unless you run resistors on the power supplies. Also one of the power supplies is hit and miss whether the gauge lights up or not.

Edit: forgot to mention they're very accurate too.
mechanical oil pressure gauges scare me. I imagine the line popping off the gauge and having 90psi of hot oil squirt me in the eyeball causing me to wreck and blow the motor at the same instant.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:50 PM   #104
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Quote:
mechanical oil pressure gauges scare me.
+1. fuel pressure too. Fuel and oil are not allowed in my cabin!
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:44 PM   #105
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you guys are fantastic and i have greatly appreciated all advice, but due to my wife getting cut back on hours and a decrease of tips at my job, the turbo kit is going on the back burner. ill mod in other, cheap ways like normal, but i'd rather do something this big when i had money to do it right the first time. at least i'll know what to do different next time, and i've learned a lot. thanks guys.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:30 PM   #106
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mechanical oil pressure gauges scare me. I imagine the line popping off the gauge and having 90psi of hot oil squirt me in the eyeball causing me to wreck and blow the motor at the same instant.
HAHA, well, 6 years and never so much as a drop has leaked. But even that said, I'm going to switch to electronic gauges in the future. My only issue with the mechanical ones is that I can't take them out if I need to because they're connected to the engine. LOL
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:49 AM   #107
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^ hadn't thought of that. Yet another good reason.
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