3rd gen 1zz tb swap

[mr_miles]

Interesting. I was wondering the differences between the two. that gives me an idea of a number to add on top of the intake manifold. still going to dyno soon, though. I want to know. i didn't notice the coolant lines in your picture of the TB. are they easy to pull out? I am not using them, nor will I ever.

[tooter]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure you could extrapolate that increase onto your own baseline dyno as those comparative runs were done with the only single change being the throttle body.

I'm running the stock coolant lines on my 1ZZ. They're just routed underneath for a slightly more uncluttered appearance.




The only 1ZZ thing you'll never get rid of is a 2,000 rpm cold start idle as that throttle percentage opening is fixed by the ECU for the smaller throttle body. But it drops rapidly to a smooth stable normal idle as the engine warms.

[mr_miles]

Ah - your TB is also turned 45 degrees compared to mine, hence me not seeing the lines :p I have the chip on the side, instead of the top. Shouldn't affect it in any way depending on how that's faced, should it? My cold start is 3k, guess it's time to adjust that idle screw!

[tooter]

Originally Posted by mr_miles

Ah - your TB is also turned 45 degrees compared to mine, hence me not seeing the lines :p I have the chip on the side, instead of the top.

Yes. Offsetting the bolt holes in the adaptor to miss the ones in the manifold necessitated some rotation...





Luckily it's fly by wire so no linkage issues are created.

Shouldn't affect it in any way depending on how that's faced, should it?

Nope.
It's just a variable valve metering air.

My cold start is 3k, guess it's time to adjust that idle screw!

You'll be glad you did even though it's a tedious task. Try backing it off one full turn at first, and then fine tune it. When your cold idle begins at 2,100 right at start up, your hot idle should be just right.

[mr_miles]

I'll adjust it before I start it tomorrow morning, then!

[mr_miles]

Adjusted the idle screw down - cold start varies from 2100 to 2400 depending on the outside temperature, lol. May or may not turn it down a hair more, but my warm idle is fairly low. seems to be around 750-800, and then when it does that little drop it goes to 600. :x probably shouldn't go lower.

[tooter]

Yours may be behaving slightly different because you're running the stock manifold. I have absolutely no experience with that and only know about the tooter. My cold start is 2,100rpm and always drops (rapidly) to a smooth stable 600rpm hot idle.

[mazilla]

Originally Posted by tooter

Yours may be behaving slightly different because you're running the stock manifold. I have absolutely no experience with that and only know about the tooter. My cold start is 2,100rpm and always drops (rapidly) to a smooth stable 600rpm hot idle.

@ 600 rpm I would be stalling, my clutch squealing and chattering and my pullies making a clackity clack sound...


That low idle might be fine for fairly stock vehicles driven conservatively, when you get to "my level"(I know how that sounds, it's not my intention) there is that chain of events that lead to a circle of headache.


Either that or my car(having the identical issue with two motors/trans and both manifolds) has some hidden problem I'm missing.

[mr_miles]

im running the micro image manifold :) ill test it at a slightly lower idle rpm, maybe I can get a stable 600 as well. we shall see!