The Nitrous Thread - Page 7 - Toyota Yaris Forums

mastaofdisasta · 12-27-2008, 08:24 PM

If i may add my 2 cents of possibely helpful knowledge, bear in mind ive never nitroused a car- I believe it is in ones best interest to keep hose going from the bottle the intake as short as possible and keep it away from heat sources, thus making sure the nitrous does not vaporize too much on its way from the bottle to the target or something to that effect. Now for a question, is it safe to run a tiny dry shot of nitrous thru a CAI if we have the stock manifold? Or is the plasticy shit gonna break due to teh extreme cold of the nitrous?

laszlo · 12-28-2008, 03:21 AM

i have had a 75 shot on my car for about a year i have a wet system
wright into the intake i would recomend using 91 and up octane
i have used it twice one time on the street and one on the dino
have checked my compreson after and both times the comperson stayed wereit was before. i have not seen any damege and i daly my car i hope this helped
laszlo

mastaofdisasta · 12-28-2008, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chupacabra

Why on earth would you subject this motor to NOS? Please buy some port plugs and get the whole NOS idea out of your head....it can serve no good and all you are going to do is fuck up.

now as long as he doesnt pull a "the fast and the furious" and overuse his nitrous to the point where it can mess up his mani im sure hell be ok. And its not like people with Yaris' are going to spray their car everyday. Using nitrous sparingly shouldnt do too much damage, or at least thats my opinion. Plus if youve got an intake made to be sprayed that takes one prob outta the equation

largeorangefont · 12-29-2008, 10:39 PM

OK,

Here are some thoughts that will let your engine live another 2 years.

Are you going to get engine managment??

If not the 75 shot is out of the question. It is not a question of if, but when the motor will grenade at that power level.

If you will not be running any engine managment, the following will apply.

Run the smallest shot you can to start.

Get colder copper plugs. 1-2 steps colder.

The individual runner setup will be cool, but will be a lot more expensive and time consuming to set up. Be aware.

Get a scangauge or something to moniter fuel pressure. You may need a better fuel pump, and fuel pressure will be critical to an untuned setup.

With a really light shot, at MINIMUM run 91/93 octane when you are going to spray.

Get someone with a wideband to check the car on the road when you spray to make sure you aren't running too lean. I would consider an EGT gauge or in car wideband setup for safety.

Cross your fingers.

largeorangefont · 12-30-2008, 11:26 AM

I'm pretty sure a 35 wet shot won't kill the car. He could probably do it with no extra tuning, but he needs to check it when it goes together to see if it is actually safe.

I don't see him needing fueling mods and all the extra crap with such a light shot. If the fuel pump can support the Blitz SC, the 35 shot should should be fine. I really think the best and simplest option would be to build the 35 shot setup with a single nozzle and get a feel for everything. I would consider a window switch to turn it on and off.

Tamago · 12-30-2008, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by largeorangefont

I'm pretty sure a 35 wet shot won't kill the car. He could probably do it with no extra tuning, but he needs to check it when it goes together to see if it is actually safe.

I don't see him needing fueling mods and all the extra crap with such a light shot. If the fuel pump can support the Blitz SC, the 35 shot should should be fine. I really think the best and simplest option would be to build the 35 shot setup with a single nozzle and get a feel for everything. I would consider a window switch to turn it on and off.

my fuel pump is supporting 10psi of nice cold air.. i'm sure even a 75shot wouldn't warrant a larger fuel pump on a wet setup..

richardholdener · 12-30-2008, 01:08 PM

Interesting reading on this thread. Here are some useful nitrous facts that might be helpful. I ran 2 full 10-lb bottles through my yaris already with no adverse effects and have run literally hundereds of nitrous tests through the years on a variety of different applications (including 15 bottle through my stock 5.0L Mustang). Running the old 120-hp set up on my Yaris (stock exh man, down pipe and no ex, custom version of intake, CAI and lighweight Lucas Oil), we then added a 40-hp shot from a universal NOS EFI (single fogger) wet kit. The result was 162 wheel hp and 155 wheel ft-lb of torque. For definitons-wet kits combine fuel and nitrous into single (or multiple) fogger nozzle(s), regardless of where they are placed in the intake tract. Dry systems add nitrous only through the fogger nozzle(s) and provide the extra fuel through the injectors (usually by increasing fuel pressure by applying nitrous pressure on top of regulator). The multi-port fogger system on the intake was done more for a show car than for actual use since the nitrous and fuel jets would have to be so small. Running a single nozzle wet kit set up to provide 40-hp shot would be easy and provide no adverse effects provided the air/fuel is correct. In my testing, the stock jeting provided by NOS (and others) is usually rich. Keeping botle pressure (by heating) up to 900 psi cures this probelm, but the NOS system tends to err on the safe (rich side). Premium fuel is necessary, cooler plugs are also a good idea. Nitrous use is safe provided the following rules are considered-activate the nitorus no lower than 4000 rpm (lower activation speed will build torque but will also increase chance of detonation). Run good gas-don't put regular unleaded in your nitrous car. A can of octane booster is always a good idea-especially for track use or on hot days. Don't get greedy on hp level-40-hp shot is very fun, but as you go up in power relative to factory power output, chances of damage increase (this works with boost too!) Hope this helps.

richardholdener · 12-30-2008, 01:11 PM

BTW-No additional fuel pump is necessary at this (162-hp) power level. We have run higher power outputs with turbo motors running the stock fuel pumps, so no pump upgrade is necessary. Adding an inline pump is not an option since the stock fuel system is returnless and pressure control is through pulse-wdith modulation of stock pump. Better option for more fuel is to increase capacity of stock pump (by replacement) or add Kenne Bell boost-a-pump.

12-27-2008, 08:24 PM	#1
mastaofdisasta Drives: yaris Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: amerika Posts: 258	If i may add my 2 cents of possibely helpful knowledge, bear in mind ive never nitroused a car- I believe it is in ones best interest to keep hose going from the bottle the intake as short as possible and keep it away from heat sources, thus making sure the nitrous does not vaporize too much on its way from the bottle to the target or something to that effect. Now for a question, is it safe to run a tiny dry shot of nitrous thru a CAI if we have the stock manifold? Or is the plasticy shit gonna break due to teh extreme cold of the nitrous? __________________ ballin on a budget.

12-30-2008, 11:26 AM	#5
largeorangefont Break'em off some. View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris LB, 04 Cobra Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: So Cal, OC Posts: 854	I'm pretty sure a 35 wet shot won't kill the car. He could probably do it with no extra tuning, but he needs to check it when it goes together to see if it is actually safe. I don't see him needing fueling mods and all the extra crap with such a light shot. If the fuel pump can support the Blitz SC, the 35 shot should should be fine. I really think the best and simplest option would be to build the 35 shot setup with a single nozzle and get a feel for everything. I would consider a window switch to turn it on and off. Last edited by largeorangefont; 12-30-2008 at 11:37 AM.

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12-28-2008, 03:21 AM	#2
laszlo View User's Garage Drives: 2007 black 3 dr Join Date: May 2007 Location: ventura cal Posts: 136	i have had a 75 shot on my car for about a year i have a wet system wright into the intake i would recomend using 91 and up octane i have used it twice one time on the street and one on the dino have checked my compreson after and both times the comperson stayed wereit was before. i have not seen any damege and i daly my car i hope this helped laszlo

12-29-2008, 10:39 PM	#4
largeorangefont Break'em off some. View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris LB, 04 Cobra Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: So Cal, OC Posts: 854	OK, Here are some thoughts that will let your engine live another 2 years. Are you going to get engine managment?? If not the 75 shot is out of the question. It is not a question of if, but when the motor will grenade at that power level. If you will not be running any engine managment, the following will apply. Run the smallest shot you can to start. Get colder copper plugs. 1-2 steps colder. The individual runner setup will be cool, but will be a lot more expensive and time consuming to set up. Be aware. Get a scangauge or something to moniter fuel pressure. You may need a better fuel pump, and fuel pressure will be critical to an untuned setup. With a really light shot, at MINIMUM run 91/93 octane when you are going to spray. Get someone with a wideband to check the car on the road when you spray to make sure you aren't running too lean. I would consider an EGT gauge or in car wideband setup for safety. Cross your fingers.

12-30-2008, 01:08 PM	#7
richardholdener Drives: 2008 Yaris hatch Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Las vegas, NV Posts: 183	Interesting reading on this thread. Here are some useful nitrous facts that might be helpful. I ran 2 full 10-lb bottles through my yaris already with no adverse effects and have run literally hundereds of nitrous tests through the years on a variety of different applications (including 15 bottle through my stock 5.0L Mustang). Running the old 120-hp set up on my Yaris (stock exh man, down pipe and no ex, custom version of intake, CAI and lighweight Lucas Oil), we then added a 40-hp shot from a universal NOS EFI (single fogger) wet kit. The result was 162 wheel hp and 155 wheel ft-lb of torque. For definitons-wet kits combine fuel and nitrous into single (or multiple) fogger nozzle(s), regardless of where they are placed in the intake tract. Dry systems add nitrous only through the fogger nozzle(s) and provide the extra fuel through the injectors (usually by increasing fuel pressure by applying nitrous pressure on top of regulator). The multi-port fogger system on the intake was done more for a show car than for actual use since the nitrous and fuel jets would have to be so small. Running a single nozzle wet kit set up to provide 40-hp shot would be easy and provide no adverse effects provided the air/fuel is correct. In my testing, the stock jeting provided by NOS (and others) is usually rich. Keeping botle pressure (by heating) up to 900 psi cures this probelm, but the NOS system tends to err on the safe (rich side). Premium fuel is necessary, cooler plugs are also a good idea. Nitrous use is safe provided the following rules are considered-activate the nitorus no lower than 4000 rpm (lower activation speed will build torque but will also increase chance of detonation). Run good gas-don't put regular unleaded in your nitrous car. A can of octane booster is always a good idea-especially for track use or on hot days. Don't get greedy on hp level-40-hp shot is very fun, but as you go up in power relative to factory power output, chances of damage increase (this works with boost too!) Hope this helps.

12-30-2008, 01:11 PM	#8
richardholdener Drives: 2008 Yaris hatch Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Las vegas, NV Posts: 183	BTW-No additional fuel pump is necessary at this (162-hp) power level. We have run higher power outputs with turbo motors running the stock fuel pumps, so no pump upgrade is necessary. Adding an inline pump is not an option since the stock fuel system is returnless and pressure control is through pulse-wdith modulation of stock pump. Better option for more fuel is to increase capacity of stock pump (by replacement) or add Kenne Bell boost-a-pump.