Rebuild Time - Toyota Yaris Forums

Yoda · 02-09-2011, 02:58 PM

Ok so just wanna do upgraded rods and pistons for right now cause I low on funds. Found a builder that is local and full of experience. I just need to get the parts. My question is what size pistons and brand and also rods. Don't much about this stuff so I am doing my home work first.
Parmas hoping to get your input on this too since u have both.

O forgot to put in my goal. I want to shoot for 240whp and about the same in tq.

cali yaris · 02-09-2011, 03:28 PM

I got CP pistons. Get lower compression since your boosted.

Pauter or Crower rods. I got Pauter, took 6 weeks to get them. Maybe these days you can get rods faster. I had to notch my block for the rods.

Head studs -- I don't know if ARP makes them for our motors, they didn't when I got mine built. It's a good idea to do this as well and save your head gasket.

Bearings - going to use stock bearings?

pimp my yaris · 02-09-2011, 05:50 PM

So what happened?? Did U spin a rod/crank bearing. Or blow a hole through a piston.

pimp my yaris · 02-09-2011, 05:55 PM

This guy has rods, pistons and ring sets. https://www.raceeng.com/c-4028-engine-kits.aspx

cdydjded · 02-09-2011, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yoda

Ok so just wanna do upgraded rods and pistons for right now cause I low on funds. Found a builder that is local and full of experience. I just need to get the parts. My question is what size pistons and brand and also rods. Don't much about this stuff so I am doing my home work first.
Parmas hoping to get your input on this too since u have both.

O forgot to put in my goal. I want to shoot for 240whp and about the same in tq.

The correct way to do the rebuild would be to bore & hone the block & install 75.5mm pistons. As for brand your options are limited for shelf stock pistons. CP is the only one I know of that has shelf stock. If you go custom route (I doubt you will, cost more) Wiseco, JE, Crower are some options. As for rods Crower & Pauter have shelf shelf stock. You will have to notch the block for clearance. Factory bearings will be fine. Factory head gasket will be fine. Even tho Cometic is a better choice. I spoke to them @ SEMA a few years back, they said they were working on a head gasket. Need to see if its available now. ARP is the only option for head stud &/or bolts. I do believe that they do not have a part number available as of yet. XBGOD was supposedly in talks with them to make it. Since he is no longer here his info will be no help. Ill call them, I kinda want to know the answer from ARP.

EDIT: Id like to add that you can get away with not boring & honing the block if the clearance are within spec. Only way to know is by tearing down the engine. If the specs are good you can go with 75mm pistons.

Yoda · 02-09-2011, 07:01 PM

@cali how low should i go in regards to comp? 9 or 9.5

@pimp didn't take it to the mech yet but i kno something is up. Sounds like marbles in a can. I was gonna rebuild it anyway but this happened sooner than expected. Thanks for the link gonna look around to see if i can get better prices on those.

@cdydjded thanks for the info see what answer you can get from them. O and why 75.5mm and not 75.0 mm? Just curious.

cdydjded · 02-09-2011, 08:25 PM

CP only makes a 9.0:1 in standard bore 75mm or oversize 75.5mm for our 1NZFE.

Read this to understand:
http://www.ehow.com/about_6667912_bore-engine_.html

cali yaris · 02-09-2011, 08:43 PM

^ If he oversizes, he'll have to resleeve? That would be an added expense. (but the added displacement is nice).

cdydjded · 02-09-2011, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

^ If he oversizes, he'll have to resleeve? That would be an added expense. (but the added displacement is nice).

No you do not. The factory sleeves can & will accept an overbore of .5mm.

xnamerxx · 02-10-2011, 12:29 PM

Overboring it should only be done if needed, imo not worth the several hundred dollars in machine work if all you really need to do is finish hone it a little. Just check the wear on the top and bottom of the bore.

Keep your compression in the 9-9.5:1 range if your going to be running the pressure below 14 psi. Remember a loss of compression ratio will hurt power when not on boost so that area below 2500 rpms will suffer when you drop the compression ratio.

I don't know If ARP studs are worth the additional cost if your power outputs are going to be below 300 hp. I haven't heard of anyone stretching the stock head bolts or blowing the stock gasket from power. The stock head gasket is designed to last 200k miles so it has to be extremely resilient.
Oh yeah last thing to remember when choosing pistons and bearings. 2616 piston material will not and I repeat this will not last more than 50k miles before needing to be replaced. As well as bearings with high copper content are very soft and wear in about the same pace. So if you want this engine to last longer than 50k miles choose bearings with high AL content and a piston with 4032 alloy.

Does the engine have a metallic tapping that follows rpm? Or does it simply sound like rattling?

Yoda · 02-11-2011, 06:42 PM

Was annoyed by the sound so i called my bud over and he brought his engine lift thingy. First day we just diconnected pretty much everything from the engine. Just now we were gonna pull it out and then i found what was making that noise. There was two nuts on the engine mount that was alittle loose

. So with every vibration of the engine it would make that noise. Only thing i could think of is that when Toyota replaced my transmission two years ago they messed something up. Gonna call them tomorrow and see what they say.

ilikerice · 02-11-2011, 07:56 PM

sooooo... still gonna rebuild? i think since you got it ready to pull out just finish it.. hahahah.. u know.. for the sake of science

Bluevitz-rs · 02-12-2011, 12:22 AM

I say, if it ain't broke don't fix it. LOL

Focus_Sh1ft · 02-12-2011, 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

I say, if it ain't broke don't fix it. LOL

... I hope you realize that Yoda is an engineer lol.

As a fellow engineering student, my instinct says to add features until it is actually broken.

pimp my yaris · 02-12-2011, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

I say, if it ain't broke don't fix it. LOL

Ditto!!!
That stock motor is pretty tough. I would save your money for a quality Turbo. You have already found loose bolts from your trans. repair. Do you really what more strangers digging in your motor if it still running good?

Yoda · 02-12-2011, 02:40 PM

Yea gonna attach all the hoses back today, change oil and all that stuff. When this turbo goes I gonna get the Garret gt 255 I think it was called.

PETERPOOP · 02-12-2011, 02:52 PM

It's funny how you had to sell your old turbo kit back in the day because of lack of funds; now you got a turbo kit on and was about to do a built motor! hehe

Yoda · 02-12-2011, 05:47 PM

Yea I kno right. But hey that promotion gave me some flex room

02-09-2011, 02:58 PM	#1
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	Rebuild Time Ok so just wanna do upgraded rods and pistons for right now cause I low on funds. Found a builder that is local and full of experience. I just need to get the parts. My question is what size pistons and brand and also rods. Don't much about this stuff so I am doing my home work first. Parmas hoping to get your input on this too since u have both. O forgot to put in my goal. I want to shoot for 240whp and about the same in tq. Last edited by Yoda; 02-09-2011 at 03:14 PM.

02-09-2011, 03:28 PM	#2
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	I got CP pistons. Get lower compression since your boosted. Pauter or Crower rods. I got Pauter, took 6 weeks to get them. Maybe these days you can get rods faster. I had to notch my block for the rods. Head studs -- I don't know if ARP makes them for our motors, they didn't when I got mine built. It's a good idea to do this as well and save your head gasket. Bearings - going to use stock bearings? __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

02-09-2011, 08:43 PM	#8
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	^ If he oversizes, he'll have to resleeve? That would be an added expense. (but the added displacement is nice). __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

02-11-2011, 06:42 PM	#11
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	Was annoyed by the sound so i called my bud over and he brought his engine lift thingy. First day we just diconnected pretty much everything from the engine. Just now we were gonna pull it out and then i found what was making that noise. There was two nuts on the engine mount that was alittle loose. So with every vibration of the engine it would make that noise. Only thing i could think of is that when Toyota replaced my transmission two years ago they messed something up. Gonna call them tomorrow and see what they say.

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02-09-2011, 05:50 PM	#3
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	So what happened?? Did U spin a rod/crank bearing. Or blow a hole through a piston.

02-09-2011, 05:55 PM	#4
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	This guy has rods, pistons and ring sets. https://www.raceeng.com/c-4028-engine-kits.aspx

02-09-2011, 07:01 PM	#6
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	@cali how low should i go in regards to comp? 9 or 9.5 @pimp didn't take it to the mech yet but i kno something is up. Sounds like marbles in a can. I was gonna rebuild it anyway but this happened sooner than expected. Thanks for the link gonna look around to see if i can get better prices on those. @cdydjded thanks for the info see what answer you can get from them. O and why 75.5mm and not 75.0 mm? Just curious.

02-09-2011, 08:25 PM	#7
cdydjded Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Miami FL Posts: 782	CP only makes a 9.0:1 in standard bore 75mm or oversize 75.5mm for our 1NZFE. Read this to understand: http://www.ehow.com/about_6667912_bore-engine_.html

02-10-2011, 12:29 PM	#10
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	Overboring it should only be done if needed, imo not worth the several hundred dollars in machine work if all you really need to do is finish hone it a little. Just check the wear on the top and bottom of the bore. Keep your compression in the 9-9.5:1 range if your going to be running the pressure below 14 psi. Remember a loss of compression ratio will hurt power when not on boost so that area below 2500 rpms will suffer when you drop the compression ratio. I don't know If ARP studs are worth the additional cost if your power outputs are going to be below 300 hp. I haven't heard of anyone stretching the stock head bolts or blowing the stock gasket from power. The stock head gasket is designed to last 200k miles so it has to be extremely resilient. Oh yeah last thing to remember when choosing pistons and bearings. 2616 piston material will not and I repeat this will not last more than 50k miles before needing to be replaced. As well as bearings with high copper content are very soft and wear in about the same pace. So if you want this engine to last longer than 50k miles choose bearings with high AL content and a piston with 4032 alloy. Does the engine have a metallic tapping that follows rpm? Or does it simply sound like rattling?

02-11-2011, 07:56 PM	#12
ilikerice Drives: 2010 black yaris Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: savannah, ga Posts: 2,868	sooooo... still gonna rebuild? i think since you got it ready to pull out just finish it.. hahahah.. u know.. for the sake of science

02-12-2011, 12:22 AM	#13
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	I say, if it ain't broke don't fix it. LOL

02-12-2011, 02:40 PM	#16
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	Yea gonna attach all the hoses back today, change oil and all that stuff. When this turbo goes I gonna get the Garret gt 255 I think it was called.

02-12-2011, 02:52 PM	#17
PETERPOOP View User's Garage Drives: 08 white liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oahu Posts: 3,674	It's funny how you had to sell your old turbo kit back in the day because of lack of funds; now you got a turbo kit on and was about to do a built motor! hehe

02-12-2011, 05:47 PM	#18
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	Yea I kno right. But hey that promotion gave me some flex room