Want to build costom turbo kit. Need advice from boosted guys!

[pimp my yaris]

I also thought the turbo wastgate actuator might be rubbing firewall after previous test install. But after removing the heat insulation I have a good 1/2 inch or so of clearance. I will also fabricate a sheet metal heat sheild around turbo exhaust housing. I hope the pics are helpful to those who might be thinking about trying this themselves. So far its been a lot of fun and I am happy the way everything has turned out. This car is very mechanic friendly for the most part.

[cali yaris]

Are you going to coat the exhaust mani or just leave it?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Coming along VERY nicely.

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

Are you going to coat the exhaust mani or just leave it?

I was going to leave it be for now. Not worried about corrosion that mani is pretty heavy duty. Im sure it will long outlast the rest of the car.

[pimp my yaris]

Tryed to attach coolant tubes and oil feed line today. Found the banjo bolt for the oil feed had the wrong thread pitch. So I ordered a new banjo bolt kit and some stainless pipes and stainless flex bellows for downpipe fabrication.

[Nexus1155]

On crush washers, this is a common mistake, we also have a shaved edged 17/19. I don't know what size your botls are, or if they are easily accesible but crush washers are meant to be crushed essentially. Should be as tight as your wrist at full force... any tighter youll snap the banjo bolt clean in half..... don't ask how i know.

Being where that turbo is, Garm is right, getting some turbo X paint for the hotside and manifold isnt a bad idea when that thing starts to heat up nice and good.

[Parmas]

Since you are updating much you seem very keen doing this setup as good as possible so here are my recommendations:

1. Take a breath and remove the manifold again and coat it with DEI HT Silicone coating

2. After the manifold is coated, wrap it with an exhaust wrap to decrease heat as possible (which is equal to some more bhp!) Link http://www.designengineering.com/cat...ps-accessories

3. The wastegate is too close to the firewall and removing the insulation isn't enough. I recommend that you install a solid rear mount or else upgrade it. You will surely have issues of cracking your manifold or damage your wastegate if you will not make this upgrade trust me.

As an option use some anti-rust on that shafts or else replace them and coat them. Rust tend to decrease torsion forces and turbo tends to increase them which is not proportional

Cheers

[pimp my yaris]

Yesterday I stoped by my friends machine shop and had him make a exhaust flange for my turbo. It may not look glamorous but it saved me 70$. Now I need to weld a downpipe to this bad boy.

[Nexus1155]

How thick is that metal? I mean, yes, now cut a hole for the wastegate as well.... You can use a larger pipe that matches the size of the outlet. Probably 2.5" then you can use some smaller pipe for the wastegate and meet up with the downpipe 12" down the piping.

And Parmas is right, your actuator arm is too close. If your engine bucks a bit you might end up slamming that against the wall.

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Nexus1155

How thick is that metal? I mean, yes, now cut a hole for the wastegate as well.... You can use a larger pipe that matches the size of the outlet. Probably 2.5" then you can use some smaller pipe for the wastegate and meet up with the downpipe 12" down the piping.

And Parmas is right, your actuator arm is too close. If your engine bucks a bit you might end up slamming that against the wall.

That metal is 1/4" thick steel. You cant see in the picture but there is a cutout inside the turbo housing for wastgate gases to reach that hole. In order to complete this downpipe a tight 180 degree pipe is needed at the turbo exit. Then a 90 is needed to direct gas tward the back. This would be a extremely difficult design for a divorced downpipe. It is also not nessesary for the low boost I will be running. If ever I install upgraded pistons and rods for more boost, I will need a new downpipe design. I am sure I will be able to reach my 160-180whp with this design. And I saved money. If you look at Focus Sh1ft's thread on the last page. You will see the zage downpipe is similar design to what I am making. There dyno test netted 180whp. At least thats what they claim on there U tube video. I have also milled some material away from the inside of the plate where the waste gate opens. This will insure it opens completely and does not make contact. Something I doubt zage did with there flange.

I have also pushed my firewall back to gain additional clearance between firewall and W/G actuator. There is still clearance between my firewall and heat/ac plenium if your wondering. I checked.

[cali yaris]

trans mount would be a good idea to limit engine movement, it's a fairly cheap addition.

[Nexus1155]

Ah ok I was afraid there might have been some interference or the gasses would not flow properly and you might have issues with wastegate gasses. But it seems like you got it under control.

Yeah I saw the Zage downpipe, although pretty nice looking, I don't like when they don't use the full shape of the turbo outlet. I never really liked that outlet to begin with, but alot of turbos come with them. I liked my K16 outlet the most of any turbo. Big circle with with bolt holes in the 4 corners.

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Nexus1155

Ah ok I was afraid there might have been some interference or the gasses would not flow properly and you might have issues with wastegate gasses. But it seems like you got it under control.

Yeah I saw the Zage downpipe, although pretty nice looking, I don't like when they don't use the full shape of the turbo outlet. I never really liked that outlet to begin with, but alot of turbos come with them. I liked my K16 outlet the most of any turbo. Big circle with with bolt holes in the 4 corners.

Ya I kind of agree. I am not really liking this design, but I am getting tight on cash for now and am very anxious to get her running. I have allready found a different flange with a much better free flow into a 3" pipe with V-clamp. But this will have to do for now. I need to leave something to upgrade later.

[pimp my yaris]

OK update. I had to buy a few miscellaneous parts to complete oil return line and oil feed line. Some of the parts included in the water and oil line kit did not fit because this is not an original ball bearing garett GT25, its a journal bearing nock off. Also wanted a 90 degree fitting for oil pan to insure return line does not rub on anything and to keep it clean. And also ordered first parts not from E-bay. I needed some stainless U bend pipe and a L bend pipe, plus a stainless flex pipe, 'to account for engine flex' this should be all I need to complete down pipe. I ordered these from a web sight call APTUNNING.net, They have a good suply of parts for doing costom work. Oil feed is a -4an line and return is a -6an. Also bought a cold air intake to hack apart and use inplace of factory air box. And I picked up some o2 sensor bungs for factory o2s and wideband.
I see the end is in sight. I still need a aem fic and wideband. Once again I am out of cash and waiting for next paycheck.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

What I find interesting is that company, like Zage, also uses that wacky loop bolt with the holes to feed oil to the turbo. Common sense says its a sucky design in my opinion, I wonder why it's so popular?

Oh, and I feel this is appropriate.

Jersey > Chi-town

[pimp my yaris]

OK total spent on All parts so far is $1180.24. This completes the turbo kit and includes the used corolla injectors. Now I just need tuning equipment.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Haha I was literally just about to edit my post asking how much you spent so far.

Was wondering though - how much is the custom work (such as piping) costing you? Or is your buddy doing it free of charge?

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

What I find interesting is that company, like Zage, also uses that wacky loop bolt with the holes to feed oil to the turbo. Common sense says its a sucky design in my opinion, I wonder why it's so popular?

Oh, and I feel this is appropriate.

Jersey > Chi-town

I know it looks wacky but they use this for brake lines on cars that hold over 1500 psi. So its pretty reliable. I think they use this to keep the profile low so the line doesent rub on anything. And U can mount it in either direction depending on how u mount your turbo. If you want you can buy fittings so you dont need to use this banjo bolt. But thats just more money.