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Old 09-03-2010, 11:01 PM   #127
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Glad you figured out that MAF problem, I was reading it and the only thing I had to chime in was that Zage has the EXACT SAME setup with the MAF lol.
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:35 AM   #128
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Just a couple pics. I cut off that stupid ear on the valve cover that goes around the fuel rail that makes it so difficult to remove.
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:46 AM   #129
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Just a heads up.. having the valve cover breather on that side of the MAF will eventually cause it to fail from the oil residue getting on the hot wires.
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:31 AM   #130
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It looks like he could just flip the pipe?
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Old 09-04-2010, 01:09 PM   #131
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Quote:
I cut off that stupid ear on the valve cover
ha, I did that too.
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Old 09-04-2010, 04:37 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft View Post
It looks like he could just flip the pipe?
Ya I originally had the pipe
Fliped but the mass air was reversed and would not start.
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Old 09-04-2010, 04:39 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs View Post
Just a heads up.. having the valve cover breather on that side of the MAF will eventually cause it to fail from the oil residue getting on the hot wires.
Thanks for the tip. I didnt think of that. I was just trying to get bye till I pick up a catch can. I think I will just let it vent outside now.
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Old 09-04-2010, 04:58 PM   #134
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disconnect that breather and plug the intake pipe,you wouldnt believe how much oil is sucked into the motor.let the valve cover vent into the atmosphere.
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Old 09-05-2010, 10:14 AM   #135
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More progress. Went to my favorite local exhaust shop yesterday afternoon and they welded up my downpipe and installed a new exhaust. My downpipe is 2.0" stainless mandrel bent with 2 sensor bungs and the rest is 2.25" machine bent with a sweet muffler. Its a little loud for my taste. But its looks awsome and I should have no problems with flow. I also had them weld in a flange at the end of my downpipe so I can remove it for some heat wrap installation.
I gotta say I'm a little nervous about heat. Dam this thing gets hot. I still dont have the wiper motor or wiper tray installed and when I'm dome driving I can feel the heat just pouring out between the hood and windsheild. Gonna buy some wrap and insullate it as best I can. Its making me nervous with the ECM so close to the hairdryer! I have only been driving slow as well. No full throttle launches yet.
Tuesday I will go to a local performance shop and pick up a aem wideband to see how the fuel is. I had a friend follow me in his convertable and he said he smells gas when he is behind me. I would rather be running rich then lean right now.
Today I will work on heat wrap and some coolant lines when I get home from work
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Old 09-05-2010, 10:28 AM   #136
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The exhaust work and parts was 260$. This brings the total spent to $1440.24.
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:08 AM   #137
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I see both of you guys are worried about the heat, I understand its in a troubling location that is annoying if heat is there and might melt things over time, but why not just get a turbo blanket and shield most of the heat. Of course downpipe will still be hot, but thats a given too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-SM...Q5fAccessories
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:26 AM   #138
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I'm also working on a turbo kit for my yaris right now and the ecu location so close to the turbo also seems like it might be a problem over time . I was thinking of just getting some sheet metal and making a cover for the ecu and the covering in in reflective heat tape sold here
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/cool_foil_tape.php
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Old 09-05-2010, 12:28 PM   #139
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Quote:
I was thinking of just getting some sheet metal and making a cover for the ecu and the covering in in reflective heat tape
That's exactly what I did when I was at 8psi -- worked great and no issues for the 9 months I had it like that.

I also wrapped the downpipe and Jet Hotted the exhaust mani.

OP didn't mention if the new exhaust has a cat, two cats and/or a resonator. If your catless now, you will smell some gas in the exhaust, plus you are probably a little rich.
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Old 09-05-2010, 01:44 PM   #140
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Thanks for the tips those products look good. I will try to find something like this local around my house
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:52 PM   #141
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Houston we have a problem! Well I wrapped the downpipe with header wrap today and placed some sheet metal in front of the ECM. Then I went for another test drive. Found some open road and nailed it in first gear. This thing was awsome. Pulled like a strong V6. But my problem is my eyes were glued to the boost guage and I let off the gas when it hit 10 psi. Holly shit I cant believe the stock wastegate actuator would let it get this high. I still dont even know how high it would go. Im sure my fuel system is no match for this. It happened fast but it felt like it lost power after about 8-9 psi. I think it went lean. So tomarrow I will be looking for a new acuator. At least nothing blew up.
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Old 09-06-2010, 09:21 AM   #142
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Just don't hit full boost until you get everything sorted out especially proper fuelling with tune. 10psi on a GT25 is different than 10psi on a GT28, you may be perfectly fine. Try to find a flow graph for that particular turbo and compare to other peoples setups.
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:32 PM   #143
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Coulda sworn those Ebay places that sell GT25's have their wastegates set at 14 psi. I'll double check.

Edit: Nope, nevermind. The place you bought from says 8 psi. I'd be pissed at them?

You and I have the same diameter exhaust, so that can't be the issue.
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Old 09-06-2010, 04:51 PM   #144
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Well I ordered a 7psi wastegate actuator. And Im also looking into more heat sheilding. Found a good websight. http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/au...e_products.php
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