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Old 04-24-2011, 11:17 PM   #1
hayden
 
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I'll give it a try tomorrow and let you know, thanks.
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Old 04-25-2011, 03:10 PM   #2
liam6200
 
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hi, im from the uk, i have a 2010 yaris 1.4 diesel, would this work on my yaris?
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Old 04-25-2011, 03:19 PM   #3
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hi, im from the uk, i have a 2010 yaris 1.4 diesel, would this work on my yaris?
No. Only USDM Yaris with the 1.5L engine have the cruise control functionality built into their ECM.
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Old 04-25-2011, 03:29 PM   #4
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No. Only USDM Yaris with the 1.5L engine have the cruise control functionality built into their ECM.
ok thanks anyway
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Old 04-27-2011, 08:11 PM   #5
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Is that with the OEM steering wheel cover (with the pre-cut hole?) That's specifically what I'm looking for.
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Old 04-27-2011, 08:16 PM   #6
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Hi Teddy.. That is the OEM steering wheel cover, but I drilled the hole using the template.

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Is that with the OEM steering wheel cover (with the pre-cut hole?) That's specifically what I'm looking for.
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:05 PM   #7
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Here's a picture of one with the OEM stalk hole.

OEM Cruise Stalk Hole.jpg
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Old 05-04-2011, 03:39 AM   #8
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Can someone please tell me what the functionality is of the single OEM wire/pin that plugs into the D3 connector on the steering column? I ask because I need to replace this connector but want to know what I'll be unhooking exactly, once removed.

Thanks.
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Old 05-04-2011, 07:31 AM   #9
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Can someone please tell me what the functionality is of the single OEM wire/pin that plugs into the D3 connector on the steering column? I ask because I need to replace this connector but want to know what I'll be unhooking exactly, once removed.

Thanks.
The black wire is for the horn.
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:52 PM   #10
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Ok so my steering wheel cover came in today. I followed all the steps, and kept saying to myself.. too good to be true... too good to be true....

Everything back together, start the car.. airbag light won't turn off... uh oh here we go, what did i break or do I need to run some wire to some pin...

Pop the airbag off again, and notice I hadn't pushed the yellow clips back in. Didn't figure that could be it, but put it back together and started it again. The light went off!!

Too good to be true... Too good to be true...

Test drive time, I notice the cruise indicator on the dash works, good sign. The damn cruise does everything its supposed to flawlessly.. for less than $100... and 30 minutes labor..

Makes no sense toyota doesn't offer this cruise..

Many thanks to Scott for this!

And in this case it's everything its claimed to be.


P.S. If anyone wants the stock steering wheel cover without hole cut, just cover shipping and its yours (note I am in Toronto Area).
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:11 PM   #11
burdenj
 
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Just completed the cruise on my 08' hatchback!

Hi everyone, first substantial post here!

Thanks to this awesome community, my 08' Hatchback now has cruise as well, just put the finishing touches on it this morning.

Please forgive the dirt, it's only just barely spring in St. John's, Newfoundland. Also, that mess that looks vaguely like a circuit is all tidy and covered in heat shrink now

For the switches, I used double throw momentary toggles which are off at the centered position. I know it doesn't look stock like some of the push button switches do, but I just have a thing for toggle switches.

I got them from Digikey if anyone's interested (450-1530-ND).







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Old 05-14-2011, 11:16 PM   #12
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Finally finished installing all of mine and it works perfect!
I think it works better then the factory cc in my Tundra.

Have to give much thanks to CTScott for making the kit...selling the kit...and for being so patient with all my questions!

His brain must be super huge!!!!
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Old 05-17-2011, 01:04 AM   #13
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Installed my kit today from Scott. LOVE it!

Thanks again!!!
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:25 PM   #14
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Scott, did the horn plug make it back to you?
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Old 05-25-2011, 04:36 PM   #15
bobor
 
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DIY CC in European Yaris 2009

Hi everybody,

I own my small Yaris and like the car very much. The only minor thing I miss is the CC feature. Since the european models do not have support for CC built in ECU and I do not want to invest too much money in some aftermarket model, so I decided to build my own one.
The idea is very simple. I would like to use a microcontroller to periodically check all necessary input data (current speed, brake & clutch pedal positions, etc.) and then set the digital2analog converter to emulate the accelerator pedal movement by increasing / decreasing the output voltages on both lines to ECU as the speed of the vehicle is under / over set value.
I currently have an open question related to accelerator pedal connection. There are 6 wires for 2 separate Hall probes to detect the pedal position. Of each set, one wire is +5V, second one is GND and the third one is the output, where voltage changes according to accelerator pedal depression level. I would like to cut these two signal lines and put them as input to CC module and connect another two wires (output from CC) as input to ECU. So far so fine.
But my idea is, that during the time CC is switched off, the signal input and output are directly interconnected and when CC is enabled, the output is fed from DAC. I would like to use a relay controlled by microcontroller for this purpose (see fig.). but I am not sure, if it is a good idea. What is your opinion. Is there any better solution for this?
If I use the relay, will there be any problem with temporary loss of signal to ECU during relay switching (the actual switching time is approx. 5 ms)? Or shall I add some small capacitor between output & ground to smooth the glitches. But I have no idea what capacity to use in order not to influence the response time of accelerator pedal too much.
And finally, do you know about any place where can I get at least accelerator pedal connectors (male & female) or the whole accelerator interface harness from ?
I appreciate any ideas. Thanks
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Old 05-25-2011, 04:49 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobor View Post
Hi everybody,

I own my small Yaris and like the car very much. The only minor thing I miss is the CC feature. Since the european models do not have support for CC built in ECU and I do not want to invest too much money in some aftermarket model, so I decided to build my own one.
The idea is very simple. I would like to use a microcontroller to periodically check all necessary input data (current speed, brake & clutch pedal positions, etc.) and then set the digital2analog converter to emulate the accelerator pedal movement by increasing / decreasing the output voltages on both lines to ECU as the speed of the vehicle is under / over set value.
I currently have an open question related to accelerator pedal connection. There are 6 wires for 2 separate Hall probes to detect the pedal position. Of each set, one wire is +5V, second one is GND and the third one is the output, where voltage changes according to accelerator pedal depression level. I would like to cut these two signal lines and put them as input to CC module and connect another two wires (output from CC) as input to ECU. So far so fine.
But my idea is, that during the time CC is switched off, the signal input and output are directly interconnected and when CC is enabled, the output is fed from DAC. I would like to use a relay controlled by microcontroller for this purpose (see fig.). but I am not sure, if it is a good idea. What is your opinion. Is there any better solution for this?
If I use the relay, will there be any problem with temporary loss of signal to ECU during relay switching (the actual switching time is approx. 5 ms)? Or shall I add some small capacitor between output & ground to smooth the glitches. But I have no idea what capacity to use in order not to influence the response time of accelerator pedal too much.
And finally, do you know about any place where can I get at least accelerator pedal connectors (male & female) or the whole accelerator interface harness from ?
I appreciate any ideas. Thanks
With the amount of development required to safely implement cruise control, I would think that in the end run it will be less expensive to use an aftermarket cruise control system. I realize that the primary aftermarket system available in Europe is very expensive (~$700 US), but I believe that the Rostra aftermarket cruise control system, which is sold in the US and Canada for ~$200 US, will work on the European Yaris.
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Old 05-25-2011, 05:04 PM   #17
bobor
 
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Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
With the amount of development required to safely implement cruise control, I would think that in the end run it will be less expensive to use an aftermarket cruise control system. I realize that the primary aftermarket system available in Europe is very expensive (~$700 US), but I believe that the Rostra aftermarket cruise control system, which is sold in the US and Canada for ~$200 US, will work on the European Yaris.
Hi CTScott,
thanks for your response. I admit its time consuming process and there are many risks to consider, but it's my hobby At the moment I would say I have 90% of the source code ready, so there are only minor modifications to be done and a lot of testing and bug fixing But except my free time I invest into it, the parts will cost me not more than 20 EUR ( ~30USD).
Regarding the aftermarket models, the situation is slightly better than you expect, at least here in Slovakia. I can get one for ~450 USD, but still Rostra model even including shipping costs would be cheaper. And I don't see any reason why it should not work on European models.

But as I said, it's a hobby.
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Old 05-25-2011, 08:38 PM   #18
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Hi CTScott,
thanks for your response. I admit its time consuming process and there are many risks to consider, but it's my hobby At the moment I would say I have 90% of the source code ready, so there are only minor modifications to be done and a lot of testing and bug fixing But except my free time I invest into it, the parts will cost me not more than 20 EUR ( ~30USD).
Regarding the aftermarket models, the situation is slightly better than you expect, at least here in Slovakia. I can get one for ~450 USD, but still Rostra model even including shipping costs would be cheaper. And I don't see any reason why it should not work on European models.

But as I said, it's a hobby.
OK. In that case, back to your original question - I would not use mechanical relays. I would stick with solid state switching, by transistor or FET, to avoid the switching delays.
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