Zage Turbo Kit Install - Toyota Yaris

[Focus_Sh1ft]

It's been about a year now and the car is still going strong. However, I've noticed I'm losing a decent amount of oil (2 quarts in 4k miles), so this time I'm DEFINITELY going to tap the block and drop the oil above the line. I still don't understand why some people can run this kit without that problem, but whatever.

[Brian]

I used a 90° bulkhead fitting when I tapped my block. The 90° bend is inside the oil pan and exits at almost exactly the same level as the oil pick up. No leaks or issues at all with that location.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

^ That's exactly what I was going to do. What size fitting did you use? I'm hoping 1/4 NPT will be enough.

[Brian]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

^ That's exactly what I was going to do. What size fitting did you use? I'm hoping 1/4 NPT will be enough.

-8AN (1/2") 90° bulkhead fitting for the oil return. -4AN (1/4") for the feed line. I ran the feed line from the factory oil pressure sensor underneath the intake manifold.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Yeah I'm still using the -8 AN line, but the only fittings I was able to find (for tapping the block) was 1/2" flare to 1/4" NPT. Hopefully that won't restrict flow too much.

[Brian]

I ordered all my fittings from Summit. Here's the one I'm using

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-983308ERL/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-992408ERL/

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Thanks Brian. I honestly think I'm just gonna order those to put my mind at ease. Are you using the return line that came with the Zage kit?

[Brian]

I ordered all new lines and fittings and made my own. If you want I can post or send you the links for everything I used.

[cali yaris]

posting would be great. I'd like to include all of that with the kits in the future.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I'd actually like to know too. It's turning out to be a PITA to find a length of hose that isn't completely overkill.

[Brian]

I'll post up the info when I get home. I ordered 6' stainless braided hoses and just cut them to the length I wanted. I have the sizes for all the fittings just because I wanted blue ones.

[Brian]

Here is the list of parts you will need if you want to make your own oil feed and return lines. I have attached links to Jegs and Summit so you can see what the parts look like.

OIL RETURN LINE
(you can still use the 45 degree fitting and reducer from the Zage kit but I will list them just in case you want to replace them as I did)

3/8" NPT to 45° -8AN flare
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...oductId=752558

(2x) -8AN hose end fitting
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...oductId=757777

-8AN stainless steel braided hose (you can get away with 3' but I would get 6' just in case you mess up)
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...oductId=752578

-8AN 90 degree bulkhead fitting
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...oductId=858285

-8AN bulkhead fitting nuts
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...00293/10002/-1


OIL FEED LINE
(I removed to factory oil pressure sensor and used that location for my oil feed line. You will NOT get a CEL from removing the sensor.)

-4AN to 10mm x 1.0 straight fitting
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-670500/

-4AN male to -4AN female fitting with 1/8 NPT gauge port (this is where you're aftermarket oil pressure gauge connects to)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-100201ERL/

-4AN stainless steel braided line (6' or 10' to be safe)
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...oductId=752578

(2x) -4AN straight hose end fittings
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...oductId=757777

On the fitting with the 1/8 NPT port it will be a very tight fit but it will work. You may want to add a 45 degree 1/8 NPT female to 1/8 NPT male fitting for more clearance.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-491501/

[Bluevitz-rs]

Originally Posted by Brian

(I removed to factory oil pressure sensor and used that location for my oil feed line. You will NOT get a CEL from removing the sensor.)

Right, but you wanna make sure you have some indicator on oil pressure, be it a gauge or a dummy light somewhere. It would suck to do all that work installing a turbo and have an oil leak or a line that pops you don't know about and cook the motor.

[Brian]

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

Right, but you wanna make sure you have some indicator on oil pressure, be it a gauge or a dummy light somewhere. It would suck to do all that work installing a turbo and have an oil leak or a line that pops you don't know about and cook the motor.

I mentioned that on the second part listed for the oil feed line. I know how important the gauge is. Without it I wouldn't have known about my low oil pressure problem.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

New oil line installed. Not only has blow by seemed to stop, but I no longer smell oil burning. I should have done this from the start... Highly recommended for anyone who buys a Zage kit. Plus, it gave me a reason to buy a dremel - which I've been wanting for awhile now.

[Brian]

I had to use my dremel too. A lot easier than a drill which is almost impossible to get in that tight of a space.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Actually, I used a 90 degree fitting for the drill since I had it, but I was definitely thinking about using the dremel beforehand. I had to use it to cut the hose - every other method didn't give me a clean enough cut.

For anyone in the future who needs to assemble their own hose - cut the hose (using electric tape), slip the compression part on and slide it down to where you want to make the actual cut. Then you simply slide it back up the hose and thread the nipple in. I found it difficult to cut the hose, slide the compression part on, then thread the nipple by only using the original cut. The end begins to get frayed. Trust me, I'm an expert at this now lol.

Again, thanks for the help Brian.

[Brian]

I forgot to mention how to assemble the hoses. Glad you figured it out though. Maybe you can include a hose assembly DIY and the fitting sizes into the install DIY.