Quantum turbo kit on 1NZFXE NHW20...Prius?

[JustDidIt]

Originally Posted by MugenRep

Any chance you'd get another turbo manifold or downpipe made based on that? I know the Scion iQ community does the same style setup.

The downpipe looks large enough 2"-2.5", but I'm looking at upgrading the manifold depending on how much boost i end up running. I'll keep it as is for now...

[MugenRep]

Originally Posted by JustDidIt

The downpipe looks large enough 2"-2.5", but I'm looking at upgrading the manifold depending on how much boost i end up running. I'll keep it as is for now...

I meant, make copies, lol. The Scion iQ with it's 1NR-FE has a similar arrangement for most of where our (iQ and Prius) turbo systems would lie and our compression ratios are up there 11.5:1. There are at least 5 guys with budgets of $2000 that were interested in turbo kits for the iQ. Biggest thing holding it back is lack of downpipe & manifold, although flipping a 1NZ-FE turbo manifold upside down would work.

[JustDidIt]

Originally Posted by MugenRep

I meant, make copies, lol. The Scion iQ with it's 1NR-FE has a similar arrangement for most of where our (iQ and Prius) turbo systems would lie and our compression ratios are up there 11.5:1. There are at least 5 guys with budgets of $2000 that were interested in turbo kits for the iQ. Biggest thing holding it back is lack of downpipe & manifold, although flipping a 1NZ-FE turbo manifold upside down would work.

I currently do not have the means for welding. Anything I need welded has to be done offsite. Once I get this kit actually functional and I determine that i need larger piping on the header, I'll pull it off and have one fabricated. Once thats completed, I'd def let someone try to fit the old Quantum header on their car.

Has anyone tried the Zage kit? If someone grabbed one of those, especially if you have confirmed the 1NZ header works, with some different intercooler piping, it would probably work. Piping is relatively cheap...$200 for what you would probably need. Not even sure what the Zage kits runs these days...used to be under $2K i thought.

Heck, if I COULD weld and had a welder, I'd probably started this process a long time ago. I'd LOVE to fab my own header and downpipe...

[MugenRep]

Originally Posted by JustDidIt

I currently do not have the means for welding. Anything I need welded has to be done offsite. Once I get this kit actually functional and I determine that i need larger piping on the header, I'll pull it off and have one fabricated. Once thats completed, I'd def let someone try to fit the old Quantum header on their car.

Has anyone tried the Zage kit? If someone grabbed one of those, especially if you have confirmed the 1NZ header works, with some different intercooler piping, it would probably work. Piping is relatively cheap...$200 for what you would probably need. Not even sure what the Zage kits runs these days...used to be under $2K i thought.

Heck, if I COULD weld and had a welder, I'd probably started this process a long time ago. I'd LOVE to fab my own header and downpipe...

Sounds good. I actually posted up in the "Forced Induction" section a month or so ago with all the emails, names and connection info for the Zage kit and they're around $1200 now plus shipping.

[JustDidIt]

Originally Posted by MugenRep

Sounds good. I actually posted up in the "Forced Induction" section a month or so ago with all the emails, names and connection info for the Zage kit and they're around $1200 now plus shipping.

This kit was a steal. For what i know of the Prius forcing the throttle closed after a specified HP range, I'm guessing that this tiny turbo kit will prob get me the max of what it will handle. Think Toyota put in some safety measures to keep the MG1 and MG2 from overheating. Julian Edgar spoke of this in his article.

Originally Posted by Julian Edgar

Throttle Shut-Down

So what was making the electronic throttle momentarily close itself at full power? If in fact it was because the hybrid system couldn’t cope with the extra power, the effect would be most pronounced when power was at its maximum...say, on a cold night. And that’s just what proved to be the case. When the weather provided me with an 11-degree C evening, I was able to get the throttle-shutdown to repeatedly occur. (But what about those inconsistent full-load mixtures? Well, if the air/fuel ratio meter was watched like a hawk, it was possible to get in peak power runs with the mixtures satisfactorily rich. You just couldn’t do it consistently.)

So the obvious answer to the automatically closing throttle was to lower boost at the very top end, so reducing power. Since the greatest driving improvement over standard occurred due to the mid-range boost, dropping boost a bit at peak power would make very little difference. But how to decrease boost? With the ex-Subaru IHI turbo’s wastegate connected, 7 psi was the minimum boost available – and that’s what I was running. (The boost level had risen from 6 to 7 psi with the redesigned intake plumbing.) Modifying the turbo wastegate actuator to achieve a lower boost was possible, but it would mean taking off the turbo to access the wastegate actuator. Which in turn would mean removing a front driveshaft, taking off the exhaust, draining the ‘gearbox’ of oil, and so on. A lot of work.

Instead, was it possible to bleed off some of the boost? Already in the system was a GFB blow-off valve running a shortened internal spring – a modification performed on the valve when it was fitted to the supercharged car as a recirc valve. In this design of valve, boost pushes on the base of the piston, trying to open it against both the internal spring pressure and the pressure in the boost-sensing hose. If the boost being fed in via the hose was reduced, it was likely that the internal piston would be pushed open, so allowing some boost to escape. By placing a bleed solenoid in the boost pressure feed hose, the pressure in this hose could be regulated. using the Independent Electronic Boost Control (IEBC) kit, the action of this solenoid valve could be mapped.

The system was quickly set up and the solenoid valve opening set to 0 per cent at lower injector duty cycles. (The IEBC kit sets its output duty cycles on the basis of input injector duty cycles. That is, any relationship between injector duty cycle – ie engine load – and output duty cycles can be set via the hand controller.) At higher engine loads, the solenoid was gradually brought on line, until at very high engine loads, it was completely open, so acting as a bleed of the boost pressure in the feed hose to the blow-off valve.

The mapping of the control system was initially done very coarsely but the system soon showed it was possible to drop boost to 5 psi at the top end of the engine power band. This stopped the auto throttle shut-down procedure – the system was sufficiently sensitive that even a 2 psi boost decrease made enough difference.

What I don't know is if it is limited to a HP range or a boost limitation at a specific RPM... time will tell. I'm guessing the Zage kit would have been too much for the 1NZFXE...

[KenTK808]

not going to lie. was looking at this turbo kit when it went on ebay too

[JustDidIt]

Originally Posted by KenTK808

not going to lie. was looking at this turbo kit when it went on ebay too

Ya, I wasn't "watching" but kept seeing it and wasn't about to pay $1500. It had sat for months on eBay.. I suppose that it sat so long that whom ever it was... just wanted it gone.