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Old 11-28-2008, 11:07 PM   #1
Loren
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DC Sports Header install and evaluation

Installed the DC header today. Didn't pay much attention, but it probably took about an hour, maybe a little longer. It's almost as easy as most people would have you believe, though having thin arms with more than the normal number of joints would surely help.

The fit and finish is almost perfect. More accurately, the fit is PERFECT, and the finish is about 95%. Some of the welds could be a little neater, but nothing to complain about at all. All of the stock hardware, brackets and 02 sensor fit without issue.

For those of you shopping for a quality bolt-on header, I think this is really the one you want. (at least until Richard Holdener gets his in production... but to use that one, you have to be willing to give up your catalytic convertors) Every other header I've seen for the Yaris is just a copy of the stock header with larger tubes. Maybe good for a few hp at the top end, but not much else. The DC header design combines longer primary tubes, which move the torque peak down a few hundred rpm, with larger tubes and a MUCH cleaner flow for more high-end power. The net result is more torque throughout the range. Like experienced racers have been saying since the dawn of time: horsepower sells cars, torque wins races.

No dyno results, and I probably won't ever bother getting any, but this header can be felt even at low rpm and low throttle inputs... and when you get on it at anything above 2500 rpm, it feels A LOT stronger. In short, it seems to work just exactly the way I expected it to based on its design. I'm very pleased with it.

I took some comparison photos and measurements of the stock Yaris header vs the new DC Sports header. The primary tubes of the stock header are 1-1/8″ ID, the DC header is 1-3/8″. The collector output of both of them is the same at 1-3/4″. Look at how tight the bends are on the stock header compared to the smooth flow of the DC. And the stock primaries are about 6-8″ long compared to about 14″ on the DC. And the DC header has a nice ceramic coating on it that should retain the heat for better exhaust velocity. Good stuff.

Thanks to YW member "Return of the Yarii" for giving me a great deal on this header!
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Old 11-29-2008, 12:02 AM   #2
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nice
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Old 11-29-2008, 01:02 AM   #3
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Good review, this was the manifold I was looking to purchase.

This will help nudge me towards getting one.

Still need the midpipe though, wish my Greddy exhaust was cat-back, but I'll have to look into getting the nitto midpipe as well if I was to buy a manifold.
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Old 11-29-2008, 01:20 AM   #4
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heard most aftermarket headers make you lose torque and minimal gains at high rpms. i'd have to see a dyno over hearsay.
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Old 11-29-2008, 01:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PETERPOOP View Post
heard most aftermarket headers make you lose torque and minimal gains at high rpms. i'd have to see a dyno over hearsay.
A properly designed header will give you power gains across the RPM range.

The DC header's performance is exactly how Loren decribed it. The DC header is designed to provide low-midrange torque, as well as high RPM gains.
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Old 11-29-2008, 01:30 PM   #6
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Thanks for the write-up, Loren. When it comes time to buy a header, I'll probably go with DC, too. I used to have a DC header on my Civic back in the day.
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Old 11-29-2008, 01:38 PM   #7
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The stock header also pinches the tubes right before the collector -- totally restrictive.

Quote:
heard most aftermarket headers make you lose torque and minimal gains at high rpms.
I made 15 whp increase (on the dyno) from intake, header, pulleys and axle-back exhaust. Peterpoop, I think you are incorrect that the header didn't account for any of that gain.
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Old 11-29-2008, 08:32 PM   #8
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I'm of the opinion that there's actually less low down torque (idle to 2000rpm) with the DC header, which makes the 2500rpm RPM surge more noticeable.

Losing low down torque isn't a bad thing though, it makes it smoother to drive when you're taking it easy, and when you are driving aggressively you're never in that RPM range also.

But sometimes when you're caught two gears too low, the car doesn't want to accelerate!
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Old 11-29-2008, 08:52 PM   #9
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With my lightweight crankshaft pulley, I might not be noticing that so much, but you could be right. Sub-2k isn't really relevant to performance driving, anyway.
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Old 11-29-2008, 09:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post


I made 15 whp increase (on the dyno) from intake, header, pulleys and axle-back exhaust. Peterpoop, I think you are incorrect that the header didn't account for any of that gain.
I never stated that the header doesn't give gains at higher rpms or gains at lower. I just said that I "heard" that's what most headers do.

Too many other mods involved with that dyno.

I'd like to see a bone stock yaris with a dc header and the dyno # it puts down oppossed to the stock header. And not a dyno that DC provides.



*If I decide to put the turbo on hold I'll definately go with Richard's setup.
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Old 11-29-2008, 09:54 PM   #11
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For $165, I took the gamble of not having a clear dyno chart available for this header. Instead, I did my research and looked at the design of the header and decided that it would likely provide improvements in the areas that I wanted them. I was NOT disappointed, and I wouldn't be disappointed if I spent full-retail price for it.

Do what'cha want, Peter. As far as bolt-on replacement headers for the Yaris that don't require complete replacement of the exhaust system and/or deletion of the cats... this is it.

I have a G-Tech on my desk, as soon as I get a tire fixed (picked up a piece of utility knife blade last week that ripped a 3" long gash in the tread of one of my rear tires!) I'll try to do some 0-60 runs. As I recall, last time I did that, I was able to get pretty consistent 8.2 seconds. I didn't do any testing after the crank pulley, so whatever improvement I see will be the combination of the pulley and header.
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Old 11-30-2008, 10:44 AM   #12
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I have a light crank pulley as well and I didn't notice any softening below 2K RPM either. In fact, off idle response was improved.
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Old 04-10-2009, 02:57 AM   #13
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Loren, did you ever G-tech the header and pulley, I think thats more important than a dyno. Just do it in the same spot and at around the same outside temperature.
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Old 04-10-2009, 03:27 AM   #14
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I really want these headers now. Does anyone have a cheap used set for sale =).
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Old 04-10-2009, 12:01 PM   #15
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I really want these headers now. Does anyone have a cheap used set for sale =).
I agree.Loren where did you find them for 165?
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Old 04-10-2009, 12:16 PM   #16
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He bought it used.
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Old 04-10-2009, 04:47 PM   #17
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I'm still torn between this and the W*R 4-2-1 header. I really don't want to lose low-end power if at all possible, and I've heard the 4-2-1 design helps in this department.
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Old 04-10-2009, 05:50 PM   #18
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True, a 4-2-1 is known for providing better low-end torque, but I don't think it's possible to cram a proper 4-2-1 design into the space available. Only way to do it is to do what Richard has done and eliminate some of the mid-pipe in favor of longer header tubes.

You won't lose anything with the DC header.
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